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2 hours ago, TheBaron said:

Oddly like the head of Marvin the Paranoid Android

 

Duck heads? Hate 'em.

But yours turned out really well - good job Tony.

 

Hewy has that lady been chained up because of her dress sense? 

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Holy moley, I buggers off for some pints and well pints and you go and make wet sheep shapes, dangle weights on poles, bring about memories of Servalan via solder structures and scratch build duck heads.:rofl::christmas::clap2::frantic: amazing stuff Amigo. Keep it up.

 

Johnny

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Very nice work on those "duck heads" although I did notice that there is a tube with a slot on the bill side between the ends as well.

 

Looking great so far :thumbsup:

 

Gondor

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4 hours ago, Tomoshenko said:

They will be fine after a bit of filing and sanding. No real easy way of doing this sort of thing. I did think of punching out a number of blanks and then filing to shape, but as you experienced (and I continue to do so myself) it's just a breeding ground for a ping fest. Also handling and holding the damned things.... plenty of cussing.

 

since I'm a lazy sid, I'd probably have concentrated on getting just one made to my satisfaction from any scraps lying around, then cast the entire bunch in resin. A simple one sided silicon putty mold would have caught the shape sufficiently, no need for the pouring stuff.

 

When you look at the shape closely, it does seem remarkably similar to one of these, available in numerous, different, multiple sizes ....'cept with 3/4 of a rectangle sticking off to one side

B07.jpg

 

I should probably shuffle off somewhere now and keep quiet for a little while

 

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You've all been most gentlemanly and charitable in your comments, but those duck 'eads simply will not to do. I'm scarlet with embarassment at the quality of 'em so I am. Scarlet!

 

More later.

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Back to basics.

 

Starting with  a clear drawing of the relevant shape for the hygdraulic mountings:

33817230482_eda5ea0723_c.jpg

4mm outer diameter on that ring, 2mm inner opening, impressed gently into the paper using hole punches. I  cut out and transfered that paper template to plastic and carved/drilled to size  to see how it would look:

33975043545_3935172eb6_c.jpg

That central opening is too off-centre on this one. I won't bore you with more than necessary about this blasted tedious and annoying stage. Being an irregular shape it was just a complete PITA and eventually I had to go through 4 iterations, including two versions that were ok and on the cusp of being finished before pinging off into the outer darkness.:rant:

 

Before finally:

33817233312_3b5cce7474_c.jpg

As you can see I decided to leave the negative space in the hinge part out of this as i found at this scale that it weakened too much the one part of the model that has to have a significant load-bearing function  - the stuff hanging out the back.

33975042915_e82a4864e7_c.jpg

Once smoothed down and assembled i think these will do now.

33817229382_bdddd53883_c.jpg

There's some more hydraulicy-hingy detail to add to this but that's enough for today - my eyes are killing me from all that squinting down the magnifier.

 

Bearing in mind hendie's sage observation about the facility of casting in such circumstances, I made a mental note to order some stuff in the near future. In the meantime I experimented with some plasticine:

33817231722_00c4bfb568_c.jpg

...and a drop of sprue soup:

33975044745_7fbb706d36_c.jpg

I don't expect anything but crudeness to emerge from that (whenever it finally hardens) as this is just to satisfy my curiosity.

 

That's better now today I think. Not perfect by a long shot, but enough to give me a basis to build up the detail in that area. I hate these little jobs that suddenly blossom out unexpectedly into something tha takes everal hours to get right. They normally always seem to be small bits and never leave you with some big piece of construction at the end of the day to sit back and feel good about.

 

One thing I have to work out in regard to these mounts as well is a secure method of attaching them to the cable deck -  I suspect a role for epoxy in there somewhere - certainly not scale bloody hydraulics before anyone throws that one into the ring!:lol:

:bye:

Tony

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, TheBaron said:

Bearing in mind hendie's sage observation about the facility of casting in such circumstances, I made a mental note to order some stuff in the near future.

 

Sage observation ? nah... I'm just lazy. 

 

I had 16 brake blocks to make for the train, and about 16 or so chairs.  So casting seemed the obvious route.

The brake blocks I made using pretty much the method you're trying out above - sand the excess off the back when cured and you're done.  I can recommend Alumalite resins if you can get them over there.  The casting resin I use is real easy: 2 parts - goes cloudy when you first start mixing, then goes clear when fully mixed, and then changes color as it cures.  If it's a simple part, I can de-mold in about 20 minutes.  If it's a bit more complex, I'll leave it an hour or two, preferably overnight.   Those comfy armchairs for the train for example, I can de-mold in less than half an hour, but I'll then leave them for a few hours before I do any serious handling as the resin can still be a bit soft for aggressive handling.

 

 

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Forgotten how "Blousey" the Servalan woman could be,good snap that one.

 

I'd have given Billy Perdue a dog'n'bone(or even a pm)and bent his ear'ole about making those duck'eads(I said DUCK'EADS)

pour moi Towniy,he is after all,the master of such minute productia in plastikard and that.

 

No scaley working drybaulics!!!:yikes:,oh I say,how much of a let down is that dear friends?

 

We the Massiv were all a-gog and I don't mean in a swish pair of Hunters either(other brands of posh welliegogs are available)

in anticipation of scale drybilauc oil squirting about the fuzzelage............

 

The entertainment factor would have been immense I tell Eeee,immense.

 

And before anyone else goes there,yes,small scale hydraulics can be done.

Maybe a little large for your needs though Toni Baroni:

 

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Them duck 'eds look like they'll fit the bill ;)

Good work Tony - I think the moulding will surprise you!

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Them blimmin things are going to do so I wouldn't change the method

 

I would carve the 'slot' bits out partway into the duck shapes, for definition then paint the rest of it black against the yellow forgings

 

We ain't a gonna be noticing stuff like that when its flying round the room at eight feet

 

You are going to HAVE to do a Ced aren't you?

 

I'm a great fan of plasticine mouldings, lovely jubbly.

 

 

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If you want a cheap and cheerful not-quite-full-monty moulding compound I can recommend Oyumaru. Drop in hot water, let it soften and squish over part to be moulded. When cold, you can remove the part and squish Milliput or araldite or Green Stuff into the void.

IMG_4031.jpg

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

 

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I've tried the Oyumaru but I didn't have the water hot enough and it went stiff too quickly (unusual at my age, fnaar fnaar!).

Another benefit though is that it can be chopped up and reused. I'm going to give it another go.

Plasticine works well too but the new stuff seems to stick to the parts a bit - it's more 'powdery' than the smelly stuff I remember from my yoof (when we used it to make Dinosaur models).

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The problem with Plasticene™ is that a: 'tain't Harbutts wot we used to get so it works differently to way back then

And b: you young whippersnappers don't like to let it get dirty

 

Modern Plasticenealike needs plenty of messy in its surface, IN I said remember, to kill the innate sticky

 

Lotsa hand grunge and copious over spray from using it to hold items in the spray shop

 

Then it works a treat

 

That said, that unusual looking 'substance' interests me strangely...   🆒🔧

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19 hours ago, hendie said:

The brake blocks I made using pretty much the method you're trying out above - sand the excess off the back when cured and you're done.  I can recommend Alumalite resins if you can get them over there. 

Thanks for that hendie.:thumbsup2:

 

I can't seem to find Alumalite listed in my neck of the woods -  I notice a few UK art suppliers stocking it, but postage to here (due to weight) is a tad off-putting. I might get it delivered to an aunt of mine in London and collect it when we swing by her place in a couple of months. It was somehow inevitable I'd get to casting at some stage - not least from observing Ced at work on his Body Farm!

 

We've a couple of 3d printers newly-installed at my place of work which might have sufficed for printing out the entire mount collar if knocked up as a mesh in Maya - the place is currently closed down for Easter though. I'm trying to gain surreptitious access to both of those printers for a resolution test without anybody knowing I'm using it - the rubric at my place being any equipment you appear competent with, you're suddenly made responsible for.

 

19 hours ago, Martian Hale said:

The mounts look much better!

It still didn't satisfy completely me and I worked out why this morning. See below. :nerd:

19 hours ago, Miggers said:

No scaley working drybaulics!!!:yikes:,oh I say,how much of a let down is that dear friends?

Despite that fabulous looking hydrorollicks system in the video (like an engineering haiku, superb) It must be painfully evident to all concerned that route  is way beyond my limited and erratic skillsets.

 

It did remind me though of an old geezer that lived down the road from my granddad in Kingston. This must have been sometime in the early 70s when he used to drag me -uncomprehending of the genius on display -  I wasn't in double figures at that point -  around the Model Engineering exhibition up in Earl's Court each year. This chap down the road used to exhibit there and on one occasion we were admitted to his inner sanctum, well, living room anyway, which was filled with scratch built steam models of all kinds. Pride of place in the fire place was not a glowing hearth of anthracite but a fully working scale steam engine about the size of me at the time, which he used to feed on small lumps of coal broken up with a geology hammer.  A kind of suburban Fred Dibnah left over from Victorian times...

19 hours ago, Miggers said:

The entertainment factor would have been immense I tell Eeee,immense.

This would be the result in my case Miggers! . :lol:

giphy.gif

17 hours ago, CedB said:

Good work Tony - I think the moulding will surprise you!

Cheers Ced. It was still quite soft when I checkede it this morning, but I imagine it'll be firm enough to take out in a couple of days.

4 hours ago, perdu said:

 

Them blimmin things are going to do so I wouldn't change the method

 

I would carve the 'slot' bits out partway into the duck shapes, for definition then paint the rest of it black against the yellow forgings

 

Cheers Bill. Not far off my own thoughts as a compromise route - I've some black decal that I printed up back on the Sea Venom build that might give a nice crisp simulation of the hinge slot.:hmmm:

4 hours ago, perdu said:

You are going to HAVE to do a Ced aren't you?

 

There are so many potential ways I could interpret that statement Bill! 

:rofl:

4 hours ago, perdu said:

I'm a great fan of plasticine mouldings, lovely jubbly

It seems you can no longer buy those little packs of rippled Plasticine strips that  I remember so fondly from childhood, so I had to buy a bloody bucket of the stuff in Tesco - let me know if you need any as I've now plenty spare!

3 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

If you want a cheap and cheerful not-quite-full-monty moulding compound I can recommend Oyumaru.

Interesting Adrian. I'm always open to a new method and that looks quite handy. On the list now! :thumbsup2:

39 minutes ago, CedB said:

Plasticine works well too but the new stuff seems to stick to the parts a bit

It's definitely more adhesive than I recall Ced. I must avoid getting it all over my parts....

29 minutes ago, perdu said:

Modern Plasticenealike needs plenty of messy

It's certainly found its spiritual home on my bench then....

 

Right. Lets' go down _

                                    _

                                      _

                                        _

                                           _ 

                                              to the cellar and see what's lurking.

 

Looking at those collars in situ this morning I realized that they are still over-scale when looking at photos showing crew-members alongside them:

33949664046_094e2a72dd_c.jpg

Not a huge amount, but enough that I would and call it to mind every time I looked at it later (I'm also conscious of maintaining standards, knowing that miniature-meisters Tomo, perdu, hendie and Ex-FAAWAFU are in the house). Not to worry, all part of the 'learn your aircraft' process if you're going to do this kind of stuff I guess.. The easiest approach to such alterations seemed to be to disassemble those collar bits and bundle them together on some 30 amp fuse wire to carve and file down:

33178299013_629c042026_c.jpg

Having by now acquired an almost photographic memory of this shape (:fuyou_2::ike::lol:) this didn't actually take all that long, but did require frequent pauses to check it from all angles to ensure the profile was identical from back to front. Once re-assembled, these formed a more pleasing propsect:

33178299803_f30f271a9b_c.jpg

It probably doesn't look like too much was removed in the photo above, but they are in fact smaller by about 25%, and certainly look better in place than previously:

33178300463_ff87a3057a_c.jpg

These are just dangling downwards from the poles at present  - I know they're not at the right angle as there's still the hydraulic  (non-working Miggers, non-working!!!) stuff to add underneath them:

33949660726_16cfd7e062_c.jpg

Definitely an improvement seen from the side - less like torpedo tubes on a Vosper! :cyclops:

 

In the process of rectifying the above, I noticed also that the cable deck was currently too thin vertically and required deepening by at least a millimetre or so, to leave room for the rear rollers to be installed as you see here:

33740738151_5507df54ab_b.jpg

I'd noticed previously that the horizontal girders you can see supporting the actual cable trough were also on the thin side on my decking, so the remainder of  this session was a continuation of corrections to existing structures. Stage 1, girders and edging:

33949662146_65c4d236a9_c.jpg

Finding that still wasn't quite deep enough, I added a couple of panels of scrap card to bring that thickness up to the required level:

33949662996_feee94534d_c.jpg

Luckily I remembered not to cover those square holes that the hydraulics need to go down into as I'll need access there later on. The new deeper deck in place:

33178298163_eae61bfa73_c.jpg

 

In the reference shot above you can see at least three sets of rollers. Just as well this arrived in the post half an hour ago then:

33179779763_0acbb01a42_c.jpg

Mi nu layve!

 

Cheers for making me aware of this device hendie! :cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The new collars look even better but without presuming to teach my Grandmother to suck eggs, I would be thinking about balancing scale appearance against structural integrity; not just on these parts but also on the entire mechanism.

 

Martian the Cautious

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2 hours ago, TheBaron said:

Cheers for making me aware of this device hendie! :cheers:

 

no problem.  It looks very compact and bijou.   I do hope that it's bijouness is a clever guise and belies the animalistic torque waiting to be released from the motor....

 

Now I'm going to spend the rest of the day waiting on a report to see how the nyoo layve has performed

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2 hours ago, Martian Hale said:

The new collars look even better but without presuming to teach my Grandmother to suck eggs, I would be thinking about balancing scale appearance against structural integrity; not just on these parts but also on the entire mechanism.

Agreed Martian. :thumbsup2: It's easy getting carried away in the quest for 'scale-truth' but there's no ingoring the laws of physics regarding material strength, mass etc.

1 hour ago, hendie said:

 

no problem.  It looks very compact and bijou.   I do hope that it's bijouness is a clever guise and belies the animalistic torque waiting to be released from the motor....

 

Now I'm going to spend the rest of the day waiting on a report to see how the nyoo layve has performed

Wait no more! ;)

33867032421_a2cab9d680_c.jpg

For the price (£40) this is all I need at this stage. I milled a couple of pieces of sprue down from 4 to 2mm in order to make some rollers as a test and to get a feel for the gizmo. As long as the plastic length is not much longer than the piece you see in the jaws here, then there's no real problem with vibration in relation the lack of rigidity in the plastic spindle when spinning round at that speed (if that makes sense?). I think at some stage I'll have to mount the whole unit onto a heavier piece of wood, as it has a tendency to vibrate along the top of the bench like I thought it probably would. (I have the same problem with the air compressor, after about 5 minutes of painting with the airbrush I look up to see it making its way out the door...)

 

There seems plenty of torque in the motor supplied hendie, but TBH I'm so inexperienced at this malarkey (I haven't done anything like this since CSE woodwork over 30 years ago) that I've no informed basis for any real criticism at this stage, save that the supplied chisel set is on the 'light' side and their handles are inconveniently placed in relation to the vertical metal plate you rest them on when in use. I used a standard 12mm wide wood chisel to remove most of the material you see here:

33867031171_0c75d379e0_c.jpg

...reverting back to the supplied chisels only to do a final smoothing:

33955290506_0b430bf5f2_c.jpg

I have to cut these into four sections for a dry fit and then I'll have a bash at making another couple for the front of the cable deck and to go above the winch tomorrow...oh, and some oxygen tanks...and some...:blah::wacko:

 

As an addition to the bench I'm quite happy with this little piece of kit. My kids came in earlier to see what the noise was and went away rolling their eyes. The digital generation, no eye for a mechanism, I ask you.  

 

Now - who needs some gun barrels -  I feel like Cyril Cusack in The Day of the Jackal....:whistle::lol:

 

:bye: Tony

 

 

 

 

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Anychance some sort of measuring deeevice(Stanley tapemeasure or si-mu-lar)can be brandished around noo layve

so that we can get a grasp of it's dimenshee-er at all,at all dear fellow.

 

As someone that likes to dabble,nay,sample a frisson of RC toys(he's got a naughty 1/10th scale proper race off-roader and a 1/16th Tiger 1),

one wonders what devious tasks such a smow layve could be employed for y'see.

 

Biggest difficulty is getting The Financial Department to sanction such a poichasse,bit of slick subterfuge needed there...........

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18 minutes ago, TheBaron said:

Wait no more! ;)

 

Excellent.  Great news.    I'm glad it seems to be up to the job, for plastics at least.  I"m not sure how it would handle brass or aluminum, but it may be worth a try - as long as you're not trying to remove too much material at once, and using sharp tools, it should be okay.  I shall look forward to you posting your learnings and a good review of this tool (very soon).

 

I may well invest in one myself.  (actually, I'm a little jealous!)

I have the mini-lathe but there's times I just want to round something or reduce a diameter, not really caring for ultra accuracy - that tool would fit the bill.  I can justify it on the grounds that the mini lathe doesn't come with a collet set therefore it can't grip really small diameters.... the bead lathe is cheaper than a collet set.

 

Then once I have the bead lathe... I can justify the collet set on the grounds of accuracy needed

 

(FYI: I started a mini lathe thread a while back over in the the Other Tools forum.  If you have any questions, that may be a god place to ask)

 

 

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29 minutes ago, Miggers said:

Anychance some sort of measuring deeevice(Stanley tapemeasure or si-mu-lar)can be brandished around noo layve

so that we can get a grasp of it's dimenshee-er at all,at all dear fellow.

 

 

I could be wrong, but in the first photo above, I  believe the mat the lathe is sitting on is a metric centimetery type affair, so I'd guess around 275mm in length overall, give or take an inch or so.

 

 

32 minutes ago, Miggers said:

Biggest difficulty is getting The Financial Department to sanction such a poichasse,bit of slick subterfuge needed there...........

 

Given the price of some kits... this tool is a bargain. - I've seen PE sets go for more

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Further down the rabbit hole. Wonderful fiddling there kid. Nice new toy also.:thumbsup:

youspinmerightroundbabyrightroundlikearecordbabyrightroundroundnow.:hourglass:

 

Johnny burns

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Crikey Tony, you've had a busy day!

Responses,  in summary...

Get resin, it's nice and messy.

Building steam engines etc - I wish I could.

Bucket of Plasticine - spoilt rotten, kids today :clif:

Nice collars, really nice.

New lathe, envious :sick:

Vibrating on the bench :o

Nice rollers :) 

 

And finally the (apparently) mandatory Dbl-E scores:

 

6 hours ago, TheBaron said:

It was still quite soft when I checkede it this morning, but I imagine it'll be firm enough to take out in a couple of days.

6 hours ago, TheBaron said:

I must avoid getting it all over my parts....

 

Score 2, fnaar fnaar!

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I'm a bit worrited about your rather high Dbl-E scores

 

I hear Father Ted has opened a confessional near to you, er, should you?

 

Also and this time really worrited about the deck height

 

Isn't it lower than the rollers?

Don't the rollers equal the height of that rail on the edge of the tray we see rather than the whole deck?

 

Should the original deck height, based no doubt on the kit's decking height, not be where it was at first?

 

:hmmm:

 

but that lathe....oh wow

 

Doesn't that beat trying to persuade the Expo drill not to wobble under power whilst skimming 'meat' (secret guild trade name for 'stuff') off the target stuff

 

COLOUR ME BLO*DY JEALOUS

 

 

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