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The Macchi's! "Folgore" and "Veltro" in 1/48, Hasegawa plastic - COMPLETED! Page 42


giemme

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1 hour ago, Spookytooth said:

Oh damn, looks like I am sitting at the back again.

Ah well, might as well put the kettle on.

 

:popcorn::popcorn::drink:at the ready.

I am in.

 

Simon.

Don't worry Simon, nothing has happened yet :winkgrin: Thanks for joining :thumbsup:

I'll have myself one pint of that black stuff, if you have some spare :winkgrin: 

 

Ciao

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14 hours ago, giemme said:

 

Thanks G.  Hard to spray fine lines with Lifecolor, I know, but I'm going to experiment a few different thinners, like a mix of Future and Windex (veramente userò Vetril e la Emulsio 6 mesi) and see what I get. I'm also prepared to brush paint the smoke rings :frantic:

Can you please expand on the Valleyo glaze medium? What is it exactly?

 

If I may... I use "Vero Alcol Bianco" (True White Alcohol?) for diluting Lifecolor. It contains "alcol isopropilico" (isopropyl alcohol) and "tensioattivi" (surfactants?). It's cheap and I find it in supermarkets. I add a retarder too, "Maimeri Medio Ritardante per Pittura ad Acqua" (Maimeri Retarder Medium for Water Based Painting - I'm reading the label).

It works well even with my cheap Chinese 0,2 airbrush. :yes:

 

Ciao.

Davide

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7 hours ago, davmarx said:

I use "Vero Alcol Bianco" (True White Alcohol?) for diluting Lifecolor

Really? I use the very same stuff for thinning Tamiya paint. Back in the days when I was a total novice in modelling, I had tried thinning Lifecolors with alcohol  (tbh, the standard ethilic stuff you use for cleaning) and all I got was a blobby, unusable thing. So you say IPA works? I'll try that, thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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On 24/02/2017 at 9:40 PM, Spookytooth said:

Oh damn, looks like I am sitting at the back again.

Ah well, might as well put the kettle on.

I'm even later than you again Simon, has the kettle boiled yet? I've brought the biscuits this time...!!

 

Should be fun again, looking forward to  seeing these two come together Giorgio!

 

Keith

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16 hours ago, keefr22 said:

I'm even later than you again Simon, has the kettle boiled yet? I've brought the biscuits this time...!!

 

Should be fun again, looking forward to  seeing these two come together Giorgio!

 

Keith

Welcome aboard, Keith :thumbsup:  As I told Simon, don't worry, nothing has happened yet :D

 

Ciao

 

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20 hours ago, keefr22 said:

I'm even later than you again Simon, has the kettle boiled yet? I've brought the biscuits this time...!!

 

Should be fun again, looking forward to  seeing these two come together Giorgio!

 

Keith

Cheers Keith, I will try and rustle up some bacon butties.

 

Simon.

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On 23/02/2017 at 1:41 PM, Silver Fox said:

I'll watch this with interest. The C.202 is one of my favourite aircraft and I built a couple of the Hasegawa kits in both 1/72nd and 1/48th  a while back, I still have a 1/48th one in the stash but it will never get built:idea:

Can i have it.

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The Vallejo glaze medium is a product designed to turn any of the Vallejo paint into a glaze. A glaze is simply a semitransparent paint and the glaze technique is used for example to add depth to the shadows in figures. Adding more or less of this medium to any vallejo paint turns this into a more or less transparent variant of the same paint. The main advantage compared to a heavily thinned coat is that the glaze medium does not really thin the paint so that the mix has a consistency closer to the original paint, removing any risk of droplets and splatters. Of course as now the paint is semitransparent, more coats are needed to achieve the kind of coverage needed for a camo scheme.

I use this technique for most of my weathering application and I'm pretty happy with it. Recently I've also started to use this medium to make my own washes (first experimented on a 1/72 Mc.202...). I should also add that the medium also works with Lifecolor paints

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6 hours ago, Giorgio N said:

The Vallejo glaze medium is a product designed to turn any of the Vallejo paint into a glaze. A glaze is simply a semitransparent paint and the glaze technique is used for example to add depth to the shadows in figures. Adding more or less of this medium to any vallejo paint turns this into a more or less transparent variant of the same paint. The main advantage compared to a heavily thinned coat is that the glaze medium does not really thin the paint so that the mix has a consistency closer to the original paint, removing any risk of droplets and splatters. Of course as now the paint is semitransparent, more coats are needed to achieve the kind of coverage needed for a camo scheme.

I use this technique for most of my weathering application and I'm pretty happy with it. Recently I've also started to use this medium to make my own washes (first experimented on a 1/72 Mc.202...). I should also add that the medium also works with Lifecolor paints

Thanks G, very interesting, absolutely worth a try :thumbsup:

 

Hi everybody, @basket is right about the fact that we're at page 2 and nothing much going on so far ... :) So, time for an update:

 

been doing mainly some dryfitting, here's the C202:

dryfit1

 

Pretty good fit overall, as you'd expect from a Hasegawa kit. The tail planes are a bit of a loose fit though, almost like a butt join if it wasn't for the aligning tab

 

dryfit2

 

The instructions show to remove the bumps i circled in red, all but the top middle one; looking at pictures of the airframe I'm going to represent, though, that one is missing too.

The wing gun has to be removed too.

Same on the other side

dryfit3

 

This aircraft also has the early style stub radio mast, so I'll have to fill in the standard mast mounting hole and scratch build a new one, to be put in the lower connection point Edit: looking better at reference pics, the stub radio must has to be put somewhat halfway between the lower connection point (which must then be removed) and the standard mast mounting hole - sorry if I've been confusing :shrug::)

 

dryfit4

 

A bit of a gap on the underside:

dryfit5

 

Actually, I think this is going to be much less once I'll have the parts glued together, because when dryfitting the wings assembly slipped forward a bit.

 

And here's the C205:

dryfit6

 

dryfit7

 

dryfit8

(stealing the tags idea form Cookie here :winkgrin: )

 

Almost identical to the C202, with the following differences:

dryfit9

 

I'm still not 100% sure about the configuration of the wing inspection hatches on both models; in fact, they're both Series I production, so I'll take my time for further investigations before filling in any panel lines.

 

The elevators have a different shape:

dryfit10

 

and so does the bottom cowl:

dryfit11

 

Fuselage: differences are the aforementioned bulges, the retractable tail wheel on the C205 and a vertical panel line, close to the tail fin, that has to be filled in for the C202.

dryfit12

 

I then decided to start with the resin cockpit for the C202: again some dryfitting

dryfit13

 

dryfit14

 

dryfit15

 

I had to sand and scrape away some of the resin, especially on the cockpit floor, to get to this point, but nothing dramatic.

 

That's it for the day, comments welcome

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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Better first try and understand which series your MC.202 is from ! Different production series had several small and not so small differences... the wing guns for example gave me quite a headhache when I built mine as finding out if the fittings were present on mine wasn't that easy. The same applies to the tailplanes, later series had the same tailplanes of the 205. The subject in the Hasegawa instructions looks like an early aircraft (judging from the intake without tropical filter), if you can tell me the Matricola Militare (serial number) I can trace the construction series and a few other details

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Good start Giorgio! Neat idea dry fitting all the major pieces before assembly, something I've never done (probably has to do with my middle name of lazy!), but it could be really useful finding out potential trouble spots in advance...

 

Keith

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14 hours ago, Giorgio N said:

Better first try and understand which series your MC.202 is from ! Different production series had several small and not so small differences... the wing guns for example gave me quite a headhache when I built mine as finding out if the fittings were present on mine wasn't that easy. The same applies to the tailplanes, later series had the same tailplanes of the 205. The subject in the Hasegawa instructions looks like an early aircraft (judging from the intake without tropical filter), if you can tell me the Matricola Militare (serial number) I can trace the construction series and a few other details

 

14 hours ago, Giorgio N said:

Checked a couple of sources... yours should be MM.7726, an early Serie III aircraft built by Macchi.

Thanks G! :thumbsup: The web site where I found references for this C202 looks to be off-line at the moment, anyway it indicated that for this specific aircraft, the serial number was MM.7742.

The Squadron/Signal publication (@Gene K courtesy :thumbsup:) about the C202 reports the various production batches with their MM ranges and producing factory, so also this one falls into the Aermacchi Serie III lot (from 7719 to 7858). NOTE: earlier in this thread I stated that this C202 was a Serie I production, but as it turns out, I was incorrect. The C205 is actually a Serie I, but I'll get to that later.

In fact, the camo scheme extends underneath the fuselage, typical of Aermacchi built airframes.

So, in short: I think I'm safe enough by saying that this is an early production Serie III, without wing gun ports (not even plated over - unless anyone else has a way to proof the opposite :) ) and with tail planes in C202 style.

 

14 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

They have begun!

Oh yes they have! :thumbsup::D 

 

13 hours ago, Spookytooth said:

Well you took your time there Giemme but nicely explained.

The fit does not look too bad, even with the A/M fitted.

It shall be interesting to see how these turn out.

Most probably excellent as per norm.

 

Simon.

Thank you Simon :thumbsup: No pressure then right? :D  :D:D

 

8 hours ago, keefr22 said:

Good start Giorgio! Neat idea dry fitting all the major pieces before assembly, something I've never done (probably has to do with my middle name of lazy!), but it could be really useful finding out potential trouble spots in advance...

 

Keith

Cheers Kith, thanks! :thumbsup:  I always try to dry fit the main components before committing to gluing anything - saves you a lot of head scratching later ... :winkgrin: 

 

4 hours ago, Thom216 said:

Cool. I'll be keeping an eye for my future build.

Cheers Thom216, welcome on board :thumbsup: 

 

3 hours ago, Sprueloose said:

Thanks for the info about glazes. Looking forward to their application here. 

Me too! :D

 

31 minutes ago, rob85 said:

Nice take off giemme! Both look like nice kits, and the resin looks like it will be a great addition.

 

Rob

Cheers Rob, thank you! :thumbsup: The resin cockpit looks very well done, again thanks to @Gene K for talking me into them :thumbsup: Too bad not much is going to be seen once the fuselage halves get buttoned up ... :shrug: 

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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