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giemme

The Macchi's! "Folgore" and "Veltro" in 1/48, Hasegawa plastic - COMPLETED! Page 42

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On 7/7/2017 at 11:04, Giorgio N said:

To me the propeller in the picture looks darker than the surrounding white of the spinner. I know that propellers on WW2 Regia aircrafts were for a period in a light blue grey, the problem is what light blue grey... some say it's Grigio Azzurro Chiaro but I have a couple of colour pictures of aircrafts with standard Grigio Azzurro Chiaro undersurfaces and to me the propellers look a bit more blue than this colour. A number of documents mention a colour named "Celeste Chiaro" (light sky") that however doesn't seem to be in the Tavola 10 so it's hard to pin down the colour exactly

I'll pass my pictures on a scanner and send them to you by email so you can have a look at them and take a guess

That would be great! I've done a few more research and found in an old thread of an Italian modelling forum that one of the IPMS guys discovered some notes about the propeller blades being Grigio Azzurro Chiaro before the Tavola 10 was introduced ... I'll probably use that, lightened with a tad of flat white - but I?ll wait for your pictures too, for comparison :thumbsup:

 

On 7/7/2017 at 11:10, airbus320 said:

Looking great so far! :yes:

 

Chris

Cheers Chris, thank you :thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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Fascinating discussion about the propeller color Giorgio and Giorgio - all the options sound more dapper than the usual.

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2 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

Fascinating discussion about the propeller color Giorgio and Giorgio - all the options sound more dapper than the usual.

"Dapper" is a new word for me - and I agree, looks more interesting than the later standard all black scheme :):thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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Hi everybody, time for a WE progress report! :) 

 

While waiting for more info about the propeller color scheme, I completed the canopy painting:

dav

 

I airbrushed a mix of Lifecolor Verde Scuro Mimetico (Dark Camouflage Green) and Matt White, thinned with Future. Canopy is now ready for a flat clear coat and detailing.

 

During the WE I had time to experiment with self made masks for the codes and insignia; I really have to thank @Gene K here, because he provided me with guidance and a sample of the tracing file which I ended up using to cut my own masks (using a Brother Scan'n'cut machine I have at work). The masks were cut from Orimask 810 film and traced using Inkscape, which is a free software - great stuff! :thumbsup:

 

Anyway, here's what I did to put them in place:

dav

 

I first removed the parts to be painted, then put four small stripes of 3M Magic Tape across the mask, to be able to remove everything at once from the backing paper. The mask was then put in place and the magic tape carefully removed - I helped myself with a toothpick to keep the mask in place when pulling the tape

dav

 

Similar procedure for the codes:

dav

 

dav

 

End of egg-sucking lesson, as @CedB would say :winkgrin: 

 

Masking completed (no overspray, alright? :analintruder: )

dav

 

dav

 

dav

 

Now the painting sequence; starting from the codes (that is, from the lighter color) I airbrushed a mix of Tamiya Flat White and Sky Grey as a base for the red 6:

dav

 

followed by Tamiya Flat Red

dav

 

then a quick mask over the red 6 and I then airbrushed Tamiya Flat Black

dav

 

same for the fasci

dav

 

Then a bit of de-saturation: I went over all the codes and fasci with  very thinned Tamiya Sky Grey, airbrushing it in a couple of very light coats

dav

 

dav

 

There she goes, after unmasking

dav

 

dav

 

dav

 

dav

 

Bottom side

dav

 

dav

 

There are some light shape issues, mostly due to the cutter I think - probably not the best for this job :shrug::confused:  Anyway, I'm pretty happy with how they came out, far better than with decals IMHO. What do you guys think?

 

The reference pic I posted earlier shows some other damages on the fuselage, just above the overpainted wing root - not clear if this exposed the bare metal or just discolored the camouflage paint - or maybe a provisional color patch was pinted over. Anyway; I tried to reproduce it using a cotton but dipped in IPA, gently scraping away the color layers:

 

dav

 

I haven't made up my mind yet as how to finish those two patches, but I'll do that after the decals stage.

 

Speaking of which, there she is glossed (airbrushing Future) and ready for decals

dav

 

One last thing for the WE: I started working on the main wheel struts. Lots of cleaning needed here, because of sink marks an mould lines; anyway, here's a dryfit of one wheel leg along with the single pieces of the other

 

dav

 

dav

 

I'm thinking of replacing the wheel mounting pegs with some brass rod, to be able to mount the wheel after it's been painted - plus I want to add some detailing to the strut, such as brake lines, a few holes etc.

Will see, that's it for the moment. Comments welcome

 

Ciao

 

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Excellent work on the masks Giorgio, the markings look fantastic! I have a set of masks (bought, not made!) to do a French Spit IX in 1/48th, but haven't yet worked out the best way to use them, so any egg sucking lesson is appreciated here! It'll probably help if I build the Spit first though...!!

 

That really is a most excellent looking model now, she'll be a proper gem when finished!

 

Keith

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She really is looking the business with her markings on giemme! They have turned out really crisp.

 

very fine work mate

 

Rob

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Giorgio, that's the difference between a scale model and a work of art.

As regards the landing gear, I'd separate the two parts of the doors that move with the gear leg.

Bye

Eugenio

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2 hours ago, campo said:

Well done, you're doing a great job

Cheers Campo, thanks! :thumbsup: 

 

2 hours ago, keefr22 said:

Excellent work on the masks Giorgio, the markings look fantastic! I have a set of masks (bought, not made!) to do a French Spit IX in 1/48th, but haven't yet worked out the best way to use them, so any egg sucking lesson is appreciated here! It'll probably help if I build the Spit first though...!!

 

That really is a most excellent looking model now, she'll be a proper gem when finished!

 

Keith

Thanks Keith! :thumbsup:  glad if I can be of any use, but ... crack on with that Spitfire build, will ya?!? :D  :D 

 

 

1 hour ago, rob85 said:

She really is looking the business with her markings on giemme! They have turned out really crisp.

 

very fine work mate

 

Rob

Thanks Rob! :thumbsup:  I think "crisp" is the right word for them, you nailed it :thumbsup:

 

1 hour ago, 72linerlover said:

Giorgio, that's the difference between a scale model and a work of art.

As regards the landing gear, I'd separate the two parts of the doors that move with the gear leg.

Bye

Eugenio

Thanks Eugenio, very kind as usual :thumbsup: The wheel doors are already provided as separate parts in the kit, I just didn't take any pics of the smaller one :banghead::) 

 

2 minutes ago, matteo44 said:

Good job with the mask... :clap:

Grazie Matteo! :thumbsup: 

 

Ciao

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1 hour ago, giemme said:

The wheel doors are already provided as separate parts in the kit, I just didn't take any pics of the smaller one :banghead::) 

Wait a minute, Giorgio.

The gear doors are 3 each side. One is hinged to the wing, the other two are those (a single piece of Hasegawa plastic) in your pics. Those two are: the shorter fixed to the upper part of the leg, the larger to the wheel fork (uhm, wheel fork? perhaps they are different called in english).

Eugenio

edit: Of course, we are speaking about the only doors along the gear leg.
Nothing to do with the other one in the center fuselage.

Edited by 72linerlover
forgot sentence

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On 7/7/2017 at 3:10 AM, Giorgio N said:

I also liked the chipping method, will try this myself.

 

Me too. SOOOOooo much more scale/subtle than the oversized in-your-face salt weathering method, I think.

 

The masking and airbrushing is simply superb, Giorgio :penguin::penguin::penguin: (three out of three Dancing Penguins) !!!!

 

Gene K

Edited by Gene K

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Cracking job.... I wish I was confident enough to spray my own markings...

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Great work G. those markings look so much better painted on.

And I would replace the moulded pins with a piece of brass rod for the main wheels attachment.

 

Simon.

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5 hours ago, 72linerlover said:

Wait a minute, Giorgio.

The gear doors are 3 each side. One is hinged to the wing, the other two are those (a single piece of Hasegawa plastic) in your pics. Those two are: the shorter fixed to the upper part of the leg, the larger to the wheel fork (uhm, wheel fork? perhaps they are different called in english).

Eugenio

edit: Of course, we are speaking about the only doors along the gear leg.
Nothing to do with the other one in the center fuselage.

 

I see what you mean. So this in the green circle

mai_strut_cover

is actually  the join formed by two separated pieces? I would have never been able to tell, looking for instance at pics like this:

MC.202_09

 

Now I'm intrigued: have you got any schemes showing how this is mounted? It looks like some sort of overlapping of the bottom cover with the top one (because of the damper range of movement) - or am I totally mistaken?

 

 

5 hours ago, Gene K said:

 

Me too. SOOOOooo much more scale/subtle than the oversized in-your-face salt weathering method, I think.

 

The masking and airbrushing is simply superb, Giorgio :penguin::penguin::penguin: (three out of three Dancing Penguins) !!!!

 

Gene K

:D  :D  Thanks Gene, good to know you approve this kind of chipping, as I am going to extend it to roughly the 80% of aircraft surface ....

 

 

 

Just kidding :D:clown: 

 

 

5 hours ago, Leonl said:

Cracking job.... I wish I was confident enough to spray my own markings...

Cheers Leon, thanks! :thumbsup:  The spraying part was actually the easiest - I just kept the paint thicker than normal so that it would hit the plastic and dry almost immediately, preventing any paint leaks (easy to do with Tamiya's)

 

 

4 hours ago, Spookytooth said:

Great work G. those markings look so much better painted on.

And I would replace the moulded pins with a piece of brass rod for the main wheels attachment.

 

Simon.

Thanks Simon, glad you like the airbrushed markings :thumbsup:  I think I'll go with the brass rod, I just need to scratch build a couple and see what they look like, before committing to remove plastic bits ... :winkgrin: 

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme

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Yes, Giorgio, it is exactly as you have described.

Unfortunately I have no schematics, but from the pics you have shown is quite clear, so you have only to copy, reduce by 1/48 and past on your model.

Just a walk for you.

Eugenio

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1 hour ago, 72linerlover said:

Yes, Giorgio, it is exactly as you have described.

Unfortunately I have no schematics, but from the pics you have shown is quite clear, so you have only to copy, reduce by 1/48 and past on your model.

Just a walk for you.

Eugenio

Sure, a walk in the park :frantic::analintruder:

I'll add some drawing lines on the above pics and post them tomorrow, to see if I got it right. Thanks again, Euge! :thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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18 hours ago, giemme said:

 ...  put four small stripes of 3M Magic Tape across the mask, to be able to remove everything at once from the backing paper. The mask was then put in place and the magic tape carefully removed - I helped myself with a toothpick to keep the mask in place when pulling the tape

 

 

Consider getting  Clear Transfer Tape !!   It will make removal of the vinyl mask from the carrier easy (and perfect), and will facilitate positioning the pieces of the mask on the model!! Yes, there are less expensive alternatives, but your masterpieces deserve the best!! :wink:

 

Gene K

Edited by Gene K

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Great photos of the undercarriage, that could almost be the real thing!

Joking apart, I'm sure that yours will look every bit as good, and those markings are truly amazing.

 

John

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Lovely masking.  I recently masked my first model, and I am a complete convert.  I have to say that 1980s British roundels are a lot easier to mask than 30s Fasci!

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Beautiful work on the markings Giorgio!

 I see what Eugenio means with the doors. There is one small upper hinged one, the top clamp. Then 3 more clamps for the fixed upper part of the main door, which bends inward towards the gear leg slightly between the 2nd and 3rd clamps. Finally the lower door, (the bottom clamp), which slides over the upper part to where the bend is. This allows the lower door to move with the wheel assembly as weight is removed after take off, to a point where the top edge would align with the bottom of the bent middle part.

 

I hope that makes sense......

 

Ian

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'evening everybody - sorry for the late answer, it's been a busy day :frantic: 

 

19 hours ago, Gene K said:

 

Consider getting  Clear Transfer Tape !!   It will make removal of the vinyl mask from the carrier easy (and perfect), and will facilitate positioning the pieces of the mask on the model!! Yes, there are less expensive alternatives, but your masterpieces deserve the best!! :wink:

 

Gene K

I will, Gene - I just need to find a place where to buy it in Europe, but haven't really looked for it yet :winkgrin: Thanks for the link :thumbsup:

 

14 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

Great photos of the undercarriage, that could almost be the real thing!

Joking apart, I'm sure that yours will look every bit as good, and those markings are truly amazing.

 

John

:D:D Cheers John, thank you. I'm thinking of scratch building some parts of it, see below for more ideas about it

 

7 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

Lovely masking.  I recently masked my first model, and I am a complete convert.  I have to say that 1980s British roundels are a lot easier to mask than 30s Fasci!

Amen, Crisp! :thumbsup: Masking makes for such better looking markings  - plus I'm hopeless with (large) decals ... :chair:  :D 

 

4 hours ago, limeypilot said:

Beautiful work on the markings Giorgio!

 I see what Eugenio means with the doors. There is one small upper hinged one, the top clamp. Then 3 more clamps for the fixed upper part of the main door, which bends inward towards the gear leg slightly between the 2nd and 3rd clamps. Finally the lower door, (the bottom clamp), which slides over the upper part to where the bend is. This allows the lower door to move with the wheel assembly as weight is removed after take off, to a point where the top edge would align with the bottom of the bent middle part.

 

I hope that makes sense......

 

Ian

Cheers Ian, very clear, thank you! :thumbsup:  For this reason, I think that rather than simply separating the top from the bottom part of the single piece cover Hasegawa moulded, I'll probably scratch build the top part so that it actually gets overlapped by the bottom one - some beer can cutout and thin plastic card should do the job ...

 

Ciao

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Looking great and good to see the decals going on. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

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21 hours ago, PlaStix said:

Looking great and good to see the decals going on. :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

Thanks Stix :thumbsup: Decals not quite going on .... yet :whistle: 

 

First a little update on the main wheel legs: I filled in the rim hole for the wheels, scratch built the two axes from brass pipe and plastic leftovers, and drilled holes in the struts

dav


Wheels are curing, then I'll have to do a bit more of filling (with CA) and drill out a new hole (1,8mm diameter).

 

The fork was glued in place with Tamiya Green Cap, with the help of some Blue Tack to hold it in position

dav

 

Same thing with the other leg - I also drilled a couple of hole in the scissors links

dav

 

dav

 

This was prior to gluing the fork, just to show how the axle fits.

 

Comments welcome

 

Ciao

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