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Airfix Victoria Cross Icons and the airbrush experiments


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Hi All

 

Please bear with me, I've some questions later...

 

I've been wanted to try my hand at airbrushing for a while, but not wanting to invest heavily in case I didn't get on with it, I was after the usual bargain basement offerings.

Looking around t'interweb, seems there are two main 'budget' setups to choose from: a small one in a little case, and a larger one with or without an air tank, each around the £60-70 depending on supplier.

They both have their advantages and drawbacks, but I eventually plumped for the little one in the briefcase, as there is less to fiddle on with regarding air pressure etc, and it can be hidden away and forgotten about if it all goes Pete Tong.

Keeping it simple (and frugal), I wanted to see what sort of results I could get with the little plastic pots of paint included in various Starter and Gift sets.

So, here is the subject of this experiment, Airfix A50129 Victoria Cross Icons

 

DSCF4276_zpsiiwmtq4m.jpg

 

Four kits in one box, all generic camouflage, plenty of paint!


Here's a brief overview of their construction, but not many photos as my main objective was just having something to test spraying onto.

 

#1 Hawker Hurricane Mk.I

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DSCF4328_zpsveylqsiq.jpg

 


#2 Fairey Battle Mk.I

DSCF4280_zpsn4zwzixo.jpg

 

DSCF4301_zpsj22xvzr2.jpg

 

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#3 Bristol Blenheim Mk.IV

DSCF4283_zpskid1zicx.jpg

 

DSCF4299_zpsyg9ikdtr.jpg

 

DSCF4350_zpsnbnkibxq.jpg

 

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#4 Handley Page HP.52 Hampden

DSCF4285_zpszwe0r4eu.jpg

 

DSCF4368_zpsqcslabbk.jpg

 

DSCF4372_zpsucufwo1c.jpg

 


and all together

DSCF4380_zpsopwgvo6k.jpg

(didn't realise the Blenheim was so small / the Fairy so big!)


Well now, anyway, here we are at the crux of this post, the painting.

I started on the underside of the Hurricane yesterday afternoon.

DSCF4381_zpslg839n1i.jpg

The pot of Humbrol 90 "Beige Green" was stirred, topped up with some Pledge, and stirred again.
A small amount was poured into the paint cup, and with the little compressor on Full Bat (all three lights lit!), I gave the underside a couple of quick coats straight onto the plastic.

I must admit I was aprehensive, but the result took me a bit by surprise.

DSCF4383_zpsxdfrrj0u.jpg

Apart from one small foreign object on the rear port wing, the coverage looks darn good, even though I say so myself.

Ok, it's a light colour onto light plastic, but no-where near the mess I was expecting.

 

I gave it a couple of more coats tonight, and I got this

DSCF4384_zpsv3jz6bnp.jpg

Can you see the slight sandpaper finish?

 


Here are my questions...

What could be the cause of this soft lumpyness (too high a pressure? too thick paint? too far away? unclean airbrush?)

Would it smooth down with another coat at the correct thinness/pressure/distance?

Would it smooth down with a couple of coats of Pledge?

 

This is all in the name of science!


All tips and comments welcome


Cheers
Steve

 

 

 

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I wouldn't put Pledge/Future in with it - are you using enamels or acrylics? Looks like it's a little thick. Try thinning a little more and reducing the air pressure. Remember, more thin coats is better than fewer thick ones!

Edited by Bell209
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Not an 'expert' in any ways; but that looks like the paint was partially dry before hitting - which means too far away

Up closer, with less presure

Best way of reducing this now is to 'sand' it using toothpaste on a rag

[or Micro Mesh - if you have that, but I doubt it]

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Hi Prof. I think you've done really well here for several reasons but mainly a ) the airbrush setup and b ) spraying Humbrol acrylics!

There are lots of posts here on BM about spraying Humbrol acrylics and they're or varying opinions. To add to 'the fun' the paints vary their behaviour by colour (in all brands) and I think the Sky is better (to spray) than the others.

There's a great series of videos like this one on YouTube by Paul Budzik and they helped me a lot when I started with the airbrush, not only for basic tips but also in recognising what I'd done wrong.

My cheap set compressor eventually burned out giving me a good opportunity to upgrade once I was sure it was worth 'the investment'. If you do decide to splash out then Paul at modelling tools is worth a call - he's helped me a lot and is happy to discuss options whether you're buying or not.

Good job so far... and practice makes perfect! If my experience is anything to go by there will be 'good times and bad times' so don't get despondent if things suddenly go pear-shaped.

Oh, and keep your brush clean - the first 'spatter' episode is 'an experience'!

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Hi All

 

Thanks for the comments!

 

I'm using the acrylics that came with the kit, seeing if they're any use at all for budget spraying.

 

Delving deeper into the knowledge pool, it would seem the cause has been correctly identified as paint drying on, or just before, just hitting the surface.

 

As Black Knight predicted, I have no Micro Mesh, so I set about it with toothpaste and a rag.

 

DSCF4386_zpsbg1jzgvt.jpg

Can you see what I did there?

 

A bit over enthusiastic with the rag, as the paint came off with the little speck :doh:.

 

So, I ditched the rag and used a cotton bud to keep the pressure off the surface.

 

Worked quite well, giving a smoother finish and smelling fresh into the bargain.

 

To repair the couple of places I'd gone through the paint (the rib of the tail wheel in particular), I gave it another again thinned coat. I could tell it was getting to the surface as a liquid, because as it was quite difficult to see where I was spraying I moved in a bit too close and it started to run.

 

Not to worry, I kept the air on and the little dribbles blended into the rest.

 

Pop Quiz: Guess how it dried?

 

Yup, slightly sandpaperish  :wall:

 

Anyhoo, enough of that, I gave it a couple of coats of Pledge and it's not dried too bad.

DSCF4388_zpsl3vjwkmh.jpg

 

I'm going to move on and mask the underside, start on the upper surfaces.

 

Any tips on getting masking straight, particularly the leading edges of the wings?

 

Comments and observations welcome

 

 

Cheers

Steve

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Getting masking straight (if that's what you need) is tricky; I press down one end with tweezers then pull the tape down the line slightly off the surface, line it up and stick it down.

Always worth 'burnishing' the tape down by rubbing the edge with the edge of a cocktail stick, or your fingernail. Make sure you push it into any panel lines that it crosses too or the paint will flow underneath.

Good luck!

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7 hours ago, CedB said:

Getting masking straight (if that's what you need) is tricky; I press down one end with tweezers then pull the tape down the line slightly off the surface, line it up and stick it down.

Always worth 'burnishing' the tape down by rubbing the edge with the edge of a cocktail stick, or your fingernail. Make sure you push it into any panel lines that it crosses too or the paint will flow underneath.

Good luck!

Great tip about the burnishing - I have had one or two hiccups with paint bleeding - very annoying I must say.

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Absolutely agree with the point made earlier about the paint included with this set - I had the same issue with the Battle of Britain set. Brushes on ok but sprays to a textured finish. 

 

I first thought some solvent was flash evaporating so that it wasn't getting time to properly flow out and film form but adding thinners didn't help. I think it might just be the formulation doesn't like the shear in the spray tip (could any number of causes none of which I could be bothered remedying). I replaced with a couple of jars of Tamiya acrylic and had no problems.

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Oh and Frog masking tape (from all good diy stores) is handy for masking acrylics as along with adhesive it has a component which swells and gels in contact with water so if any paint creeps under a panel line it gets stopped pretty quick 

 

Works far better than the other tapes I've tried 

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For a first bash with an airbrush I think you've done very well. Those little paint pots are not the easiest to use when spraying, but I'd recommend using plain water rather than Pledge. I tried all sorts of additives (Isopropyl, various brands of acrylic thinners) until someone told me to use plain water.

If you want to keep on with the airbrush (and I think you should with those results) then try some of the "ready to spray" acrylics, such as Vallejo Air (other brands are available, etc.) as one of the hardest things to get right at first is the thinning ratio.

Good luck and keep up the good work. :yes:

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Hi All

 

Thanks for the comments, appreciate your input.

 

The cocktail stick 'burnishing' is a very cool tip, and even more applicable to repeat before spraying if the masking has been on for a while. How do I know? Find out soon!

 

Will look out for that Frog masking tape too, might save me some more angst.


Anyhoo, in the name of Science, I smothered the underside under a layer of Generic masking

DSCF4389_zpszjxjoycz.jpg

 

and had a go on the top with the Dark Earth, thinned with Finest Tap Water.

DSCF4393_zpsuubh2ogk.jpg

 

This time, I suspect it was slightly too thin, as...

DSCF4395_zpsxcdjri8h.jpg

 

Seems my masking technique isn't quite up to scratch yet, but I'm looking on this as a GOOD THING!

 

A lesson in making sure all the edges are paint-tight.

 

I'm just going to let it slide for now, and rely on being able to remove the ingress with a cotton bud and toothpaste once the masking comes off.

 

It should remove the bleed without taking the underside paint off too, as it's had a couple of coats of Pledge?

 

So, onward.

 

Undeterred, I gave it a couple more coats of Watery Brown, and here's where I'm at now.

DSCF4396_zpssiqxu2av.jpg

 

Not entirely a uniform shade, but I'm wary of applying any more coats in case it goes more "textured" (thanks LostCosmonauts, describes it

perfectly!)

 

...and on to Today's Question:

 

Do I seal this now and apply the green over the top, or wait until I've applied the rest of the upper surface green and do it all as one?

 

Answers on a postcard.

 

Comments and suggestions welcome

 


Cheers
Steve

Edited by ProfSparks
saussage fingers
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Hi Steve. Many people here strive for a 'Not entirely a uniform shade' so good job!

Bad luck with the masking, but as you say, now you know :) Tamiya tape is generally better for tight lines, filled in with the cheaper tape. I've heard that Frog tape's gel 'sealer' can leave a residue but I've not tried it.

I don't usually Klear coat between camo colours, but then I prime. I'll leave it to others but would be a bit worried about lifting the paint with just the tape? I usually reduce the tackiness a bit by sticking it to my hand or trousers first.

 

How are you going to mask for the second camo colour? Various techniques including BluTak (for slightly blurred demarcation lines - you can vary how weak you push it down) filled in with tape or cling-film, to cutting tape to free-handed. My personal favourite is Cookie's idea of scanning the scheme from the instructions, scaling it, printing it out and sticking the paper to the model. You can do this using folded over tape, BluTak or, my favourite but an investment, 3M re-mount spray. This doesn't work for the fuselage bout you can join the scheme with BluTak once the paper is on. Or my current favourite, Panzer Putty (again an investment, but re-useable).

 

HTH

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Interesting thread, this. What spray equipment are using, exactly? Might have a bash myself...

 

Regarding bleeding and masking, one tip I saw was to paint on some Pledge or equivalent along the edge of the tape to seal any gaps that had defied the burnishing process.

 

Keep up the good work!

John.

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5 hours ago, johnd said:

Interesting thread, this. What spray equipment are using, exactly? Might have a bash myself...

 

Regarding bleeding and masking, one tip I saw was to paint on some Pledge or equivalent along the edge of the tape to seal any gaps that had defied the burnishing process.

 

Keep up the good work!

John.

Another tip is to respray the masked colour after you have masked it.

(Yes, this means a lot more mixing/thinning and cleaning the airbrush but it does work).

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Hi ,good luck air brushing Humbrol Acrylic paint ,i think you should use the widest nozzle /needle  size ,a ,50 should do ,i tried using my Iwata HP-BCS and it went on with a struggle .

Tried  using another Iwata with a .035 ,and it would not flow at all .

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Hi All

 

Back again!

 

This is what I'm using to spray with John, just one of the basic cheap starter sets recommended elsewhere here

DSCF4408_zpsy3wgho3d.jpg

 

DSCF4400_zpsrwcgwwio.jpg

 

The compressor unit sitting on the bubble wrap isn't a tweak, it just helps keep the 'nnnnnnnn' noise down.


Anyhoo, this is where I'd got to

DSCF4398_zpswchwtyv6.jpg

 

and I set about the masking.

 

The wings weren't too bad to get, just a single sheet scribed and cut out.

DSCF4401_zpsg3yubxx0.jpg

 

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The fuselage however...

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I think I might have found my favourite Least Favourite Thing To Do

 

Still, taking a good tip from johnd, I ran a bead of Pledge round the tape edges after rolling them down with a cocktail stick, and had at it with the Dark Green.

DSCF4409_zpsxf9jxwbl.jpg

 

DSCF4410_zpsmjj0gy1q.jpg

 

It's odd spraying.
To get the paint flowing, I've to slowly "pump" the trigger back and forth, producing short bursts of spray, until eventually it sends out a constant stream for a few seconds, before going back to having to pump again.
When it's flowing smoothly, it is a most satisfying sensation.
It happens like this regardless of whether the paint is too thick or too thinned.

Could this be a nozzle/needle size issue as cocky05d mentions?

The kit comes with a stated size of 0.3mm, do you think moving to a 0.5mm would help?


Enough, I'm going to let it set tonight and give it a coat of Pledge tomorrow.

Quite excited as to how it's all going to unwrap, I've a strong urge to rip all the masking off now...


Comments and tips welcome


Cheers
Steve

 

Edited by ProfSparks
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If you're having to "pump" the trigger, then you definitely have a problem. As you've guessed, the paint is too thick, if it was too thin, you'd end up with a watery and runny mess al over your model.

Personally, I'd try adding a little more water to the mix  - it will help you get the idea of how "thin" the paint has to be. Changing the needle will help if the paint particles are bigger than usual.

Good luck and keep trying!

Ps try spraying pieces of cardboard, at different pressures, and different paint amounts (this can be adjusted by not pulling the trigger back so far, or screwing the stop on the end of the handle in to prevent the needle moving back too far. All practice helps and bits of cardboard are cheaper than models.

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Looks like some good info to be had whilst following this... particularly as I have the same air brush setup as you, although I have only used it once. What you've done so far looks pretty good to me!

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Hi All

 

So here it is, the moment of truth...

 

Ta Dah!

DSCF4416_zps5b6vufoa.jpg

 

DSCF4417_zps1vpd53l1.jpg

 

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As suspected, there are some problem areas on the underside where the brown seeped under the masking, and a couple of areas where the masking has lifted the brown and green from the upper surface.

DSCF4421_zpspkxdwozl.jpg

 

DSCF4418_zpssyoyrx7d.jpg

 

Cleaning results on the underside were not too promising, as rubbing with toothpaste and cotton bud didn't shift the brown until all the paint came off.

A light scraping with a sharp blade proved better, but there was only a small window of pressure between removing the brown and removing all the paint too.

DSCF4425_zpsdbkddt2m.jpg

 

Possibly the bead of Pledge getting in where the paint got, and sealing it?

 

So, as learned previously, get the masking right in the first place and non of this would have happened.

 

Filling in the missing brown and green areas on the topside was easier, just a couple of brushed on coats of thinned down paint, and they're nearly gone

 

Also, there were a couple of ridges where green bordered the brown, must have gone over there more times than elsewhere, and they were CAREFULLY scraped with that sharp blade.


And this brings me to an interesting thought.
One thing that had never crossed my mind until starting this spraying malarkey, was the importance of good working light!
When putting on the first couple of coats it's easy to see where the paint's going, but as the layers get added, it becomes increasingly harder to tell where you've been.
Getting the model in the right position to determine where to spray was quite tricky, and sometimes having to cross hands spraying.


Anyhoo, here it is so far

DSCF4426_zpsvqqyqfsi.jpg

 

DSCF4427_zpsqvugkvpk.jpg

 

Suspect I'll not do much more on this one, decals, prop, (wheels up or down?) and start #2.


What should be my next step regarding airbrushing?
I know that I should apply thinner coats of thinner paint, pay more attention to masking and coverage, but:-

 

Should I try a 0.5mm nozzle/needle in this brush (are they all interchangeable, the same thread size?)
Should I undercoat (is that what you mean CedB by "prime"?)

Thoughts, comments and suggestions welcome


Cheers
Steve

 

 

Edited by ProfSparks
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I think that finish is pretty damn miraculous given the raw materials! Great job.  

 

I also find masking a pain, but time spent getting it right saves more time tidying up.

 

When I get bleed under, I remove the worst of it using a very sharp hobby knife scraping very lightly and carefully.  I then touch up by brush with thinned paint (consistency of full fat milk) on a fairly dry brush.  Don't over work the paint though.  May take a few coats, but I don't get brush marks.

 

Caveat:  I use xtracrylix, which has a very smooth consistency and dries glossy.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Regards 

 

Martin

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Some things I've learned along the way....

0.3mm nozzle is fine for most things

Primer is a must to reduce paint coming away, applying Johnstons Kleer is a good way of strengthening the paint before masking for a second colour too. Kleet can also be good to run aroun the edge of a mask to stop paint run, but I normally find applying thin paint coats initially seals the edge just fine. you can build up the thickness once an initial fine coat is down.

 

Great work so far :)

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Great results there Steve, especially for your first go!

Some things can be taught, others need to be experienced, and bleed under masking is one of those things I'm afraid! I think you've picked up the main points! :) 

 

4 hours ago, ProfSparks said:

Should I undercoat (is that what you mean CedB by "prime"?)

 

Yes! The stuff used as the first coat is called 'primer' because it 'grabs' the plastic and gives a firm base for the acrylics - you don't need it for enamel paints (I'm told). If you don't prime then there's a risk that the paint will lift off, as you've found. My favourite at the moment is Badger Stynylrez (Ultimate products have also rebranded it) - sprays nicely, dries quickly and it's very robust. I'd avoid Vallejo as it has a tendency to, er, not stick IMHO. Most people use grey as a general purpose primer.

 

Getting the right nozzle and pressure is by experiment I think - I use a .35 for priming and a .4 for other work but I'm moving to .2 for 'detailed work' to get that 'variation' that people like Cookenbacker and Stew Dapple use to make their models less 'toy like'. Plenty of time for that though.

 

Good stuff - on to the next!

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Hi All

 

Last little bits done on this to finish it off, then as CedB says, on to the next!

 

DSCF4434_zpsiennrtlx.jpg

 

DSCF4435_zpsh6dlk4ih.jpg

 

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Prop just held on with BluTack as that's where I needed to hold it for it's final coat of Pledge.


And here it is complete
DSCF4445_zpsjinmbdgi.jpg

 

DSCF4446_zpse3rnhmiz.jpg

 

DSCF4447_zpsmvmae3lq.jpg

 

DSCF4448_zps00x3tgrj.jpg

 

DSCF4451_zpsllsrsybk.jpg

 

All in all, it's come out way better than I would have expected, but I now can appreciate the extra work that goes into getting it spot on.


Going to try to take onboard all that I've learned from this one, hopefully the next shouldn't be as rough.


All comments and suggestions welcome

 

 

Cheers
Steve

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