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1/48 - Granville Brothers Aircraft Gee Bee R-1 & R-2 by Dora Wings & A&A Models - released - new A&A Models R-1/Z Mod. 1934


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On ‎2017‎-‎11‎-‎16 at 3:50 PM, John Aero said:

I would say that this is a new venture so give it a chance. I wasn't involved with the Gee Bee, but I have been advising on some other very interesting British projects and for some I am supplying the totally new drawings.

 

Obviously, except for the Vega Gull/ Proctor which is on the flyer, until Eugen (Dora Wings) mentions them I will not say what they are. For the project drawings I have had amazing access to the first three aircraft and particularly for the Proctor I've had the help of a restorer of 4 aircraft who has access to the only remaining works drawings which were found in Australia. I had to convert many of these drawings from fractional Imperial, via decimal Imperial to metric. 

 

John

Hi John,

For me I sincerely hope you are talking (or in fact not talking) about the Wapiti/Wallace, advertised by Dora guys about one year ago in their very first flyer.

Patrik

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Patrik

All I will say is that I have been working on a completely new set of drawings for the Wapiti and Wallace. All the previously published drawings have errors. The Wallace drawing have the cockpit in the wrong place. Again it's been the case of sorting out the myths and errors of previous publications and understanding the structure, especially that of the Wapiti and finding where (or if) that mystical  'two foot' difference is between the two airframes. It does by the way.

 

Production Wapiti V's are not longer than any other Wapiti despite some views to the contrary.

 

John

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Hi John, the Wapiti length issue is extremely intriguing for me, but I do not want to highjack the thread here any longer. I will send you a PM on this later this week.

Excellent work on the Gee Bee fuselage. By the way, where I live, IPA is commonly used as a nickname for bitumen felt. Originally quite probably a trade name (izolacni pas asfaltovy), which became part of the everyday language.

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Just to make the process clear.

You need to reduce the height of the stringers a little and by using a small curved blade to scrape off the plastic, you will also slightly taper the stringers which will reduce their surface area.  The primer-filler paint fills up the trough between the stringers and also builds up on the stringers.

Use a sponge backed, fine abrasive pad, which will remove the paint from the stringer and the trough but as the plastic surface of the stringer becomes exposed, the paint in between erodes faster, leaving a gentle hollow.

 

Rubbing the surface with a cloth soaked in a thinner/IPA will not effect the plastic but it will gently remove and polish the the paint in between the stringers. I used this method on many of my biplane patterns (the stringers in my case were hard plastic sprue). In retrospect I should have assembled the parts but the object was a fix rather than a build in progress.

 

John

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 16/11/2017 at 14:50, John Aero said:

Spray the stringers with a couple of coats of Halfords Yellow Primer /Filler.

HI John

 

A check at Halfords shows a variety of colours, any specfic reason for the yellow, or are they all the  same?

Just thinking of getting some as this looks a possible solution to Hasegawa Hurricane fuselgage sag :)

708776?w=637&h=403

 

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-filler-primer-500ml

 

thank you

Troy

 

 

 

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Troy

 

I just checked and Halfords may have made a formula change as it used to be called just Filler Primer (Yellow colour) with a code of 451591. I think that the one I used for the Gee Bee was 848. It will be interesting to see if the two codes are sold concurrently. The old one used to rub down a little quicker IMO.  The secret is to use fine rubber sponge backed sanding pads for the initial sanding which will contour and just expose the plastic stringers but not reduce them.  Then use the T shirt cloth and solvent. This will gently abrade, smooth and polish the YFP between the high points of the ribs or stringers. 

 

The fine /ultra fine sponge pads  (size approx 100 mm x 125 mm by  6 mm thick) I use I got from Car body finishing material suppliers and I cut them into smaller squares.

 

Cheer

 

John

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On 09/12/2017 at 16:11, John Aero said:

I think that the one I used for the Gee Bee was 848. It will be interesting to see if the two codes are sold concurrently. The old one used to rub down a little quicker IMO.  The secret is to use fine rubber sponge backed sanding pads for the initial sanding which will contour and just expose the plastic stringers but not reduce them.  Then use the T shirt cloth and solvent. This will gently abrade, smooth and polish the YFP between the high points of the ribs or stringers. 

 

The fine /ultra fine sponge pads  (size approx 100 mm x 125 mm by  6 mm thick) I use I got from Car body finishing material suppliers and I cut them into smaller squares.

thank you John

A friend picked me  up a can of  Plastic Filler  Primer, 300ML, code 456848,  (no Halfrods in town)

which I have not  tried out yet,  as I was wating for a mixed box of  sanding pad  off cuts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-WET-AND-DRY-SANDING-PADS-STRIPS-FINE-GRADE-OFF-CUTS-Model-Crafts/391854688024

which turned up today,   and will probably last me forever...

the same seller has various other pads,  but the offcuts offered a mix of grades in one,  and as you said you cut the bigger pads up it seemed a reasonable gamble.

.

cheers

Troy

Edited by Troy Smith
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