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Westland Scout 1/48 kit mangle/scratch/trash/bash


hendie

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7 hours ago, MDSCUSTOMS said:

Lighter Fluid eats plastic


:doh: Oops!

 

To be fair, you don’t need to flood the area to clean off Spraymount. A bit on the end of a cotton bud will do. Just to be clear, I’m referring to the Ronson brand fluid, which 3M used to sell in their own branded tins as cleaner. It was commonplace around the art studios I’ve worked in. I guess any good naphtha-based thinners would do just as well.

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Have I mentioned how much I'm enraptured by this recently? Because I am. Just beautiful, aspirational work as well as making me want someone to release an injected Scout in 1/48. I have a desire to build XP849 in Raspberry Ripple (thanks, BBC's Test Pilot!) that needs to be sated.

Edited by k5054nz
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26 minutes ago, k5054nz said:

Just beautiful, aspirational work as well as making me want someone to release an injected Scout in 1/48.

I can't believe no-one did after I finished my conversion! It's well overdue, as is a new Wasp.

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On 11/21/2021 at 6:14 PM, RichieW said:

So GS Hypo is going on the shopping list. All that measuring and lining up has paid off. Lovely simple method for making identical undercarriage thingys. 

 

Richie

 

it's useful stuff Richie, and has the bonus of having a precision applicator included

 

On 11/22/2021 at 3:29 AM, Bertie Psmith said:

 

You do, we all do, we just don't know about it. 😄

 

:rofl2:

 

On 11/22/2021 at 4:38 AM, Fritag said:

Who’d be daft enough to take on the Scout with all it’s exposed-engineyness, absent-doory and expansive-interioriness, and scaffoldy undercarriage?  And then have the skills to pull it off in such impressive fashion? I ask you…..

 

I know, I know. You just can't fix stupid can you?

 

On 11/22/2021 at 12:57 PM, Pete in Lincs said:

Skidtastic! (Pop Pickers) (Fluffy compliment there)

 

There I was the following day sitting there singing Working For The Yankee Dollar and it hit me... Skids.  Skids was the term I was looking for!  I hate tis getting old malarkey - I seem to be losing about 6 words from my vocabulary with each passing day

 

On 11/22/2021 at 5:36 PM, Bell209 said:

They look great! I had to scratchbuild mine from plasticard but yours look infinitely better!

 

thanks Bell209.

 

23 hours ago, k5054nz said:

Have I mentioned how much I'm enraptured by this recently? Because I am. Just beautiful, aspirational work as well as making me want someone to release an injected Scout in 1/48. I have a desire to build XP849 in Raspberry Ripple (thanks, BBC's Test Pilot!) that needs to be sated.

 

ewwwwwww.  can't say I'm a fan of the raspberry ripple scheme. I've always thought that military aircraft should look like military aircraft. Glad you're enjoying the thread

 

22 hours ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

This is really a worthy follow up to the HAR 10. I don't think I could pull it off anywhere near as well.

Getting near the finish line now.

 

 

That finish line is still a good couple of leagues off in the distance

 

15 hours ago, coneheadff said:

Fantastic, absolutely fantastic! The engine itself is a masterpiece

 

thanks coneheadff.  Thanks heavens for 3d printing eh?

 

Now that this aircraft is looking less and less like a Wasp I thought I'd try and make it look more and more like a Scout. One of the immediately distinguishing features is a decent undercarriage, and not a set of trolley wheels like wot's on the Wasp. :giggle:

Now that the skids were in place it was time to address the missing pieces of undercarriage.  I fired up the lathe and turned a couple of these little cannister shaped things

 

PB230005.jpg

 

into which I soldered some 1mm rod on the bottom end and some 0.8mm rod in the top end. So far so good, the plan is working.

 

PB230007.jpg

 

Next up was the bellows/gaiter affair. For this I chose to use stainless wire wrapped around a tube, then topped off with a small plastic disc.  I did try a few other methods involving rubber tube and bits of plastic and tried to replicate the bellows effect, but at the end of the day, the wire solution worked better.  I deliberately tried to make the wire wrapping a little bit uneven in an effort to look more like the 1:1.  Now I just needed to figure out how to fix it all in place.

 

PB240008.jpg

 

I was not a fan of simply using superglue, or any other adhesive for that matter, to hold the strut in place. Just having it leaning there and tacked at both ends was just calling for trouble later on. 

My chosen solution was to flatten the end of the 0.8mm rod in a vise, then drill through the flattened section with a 0.5mm drill - then I could thread some rod through the hole and solder that in place. That small section of rod was good enough to give a positive fixing against the fuselage.

 

PB240009.jpg

 

That was one of those jobs you need to take a break after, so while the lathe was powered up I turned a couple of lamp housings from some aluminum stock. 

I've added testors clear varnish as the lens' - it seemed the easiest option.

 

PB240010.jpg

 

Struts were painted up - second attempt. First time around I hand painted them and they looked terrible so I stripped it off and broke out the airbrush

 

PB240011.jpg

 

All I had to do now was drill some holes in the fuselage as locators for the small mounting stubs - always easier said than done.

Then all of a sudden, the struts were in place. 

 

PB240015.jpg

 

on another detour while avoiding jobs I didn't feel like doing, I went up to the back end and added the small pipe that can be seen protruding from the tail pylon.

If only I could focus that darned camera more successfully

 

PB240013.jpg

 

Yesterday I spent most of the day in front of the computer trying to decipher the rotor head assembly from a bunch of photos and create a suitable rendition in SolidWorks. 

 

Screenshot-2021-11-23-132818.png

 

This is where I ended up at yesterday evening.  It was an awkward job as all I really had for reference to dimensions was the Fujimi offering, which is really naff and I can't say I trust any part of it, but it was all I had.

That involved a lot of to and fro-ing to get to this stage. Certainly better than Fujimi's effort.

 

Screenshot-2021-11-23-132908.png

 

As I closed up shop last night I set up the print job.  I tried printing the rotor blades at a 30 degree angle and another version completely vertical. It ended up baing an 18 hour print job due to the height of the rotor blades, but as it turned out, the vertical blades printed better.

 

PB240012.jpg

 

Then as I sat last night passing out to Netflix, and about 3 or 4 hours into the print job, I realized my deliberate mistake

 

Spot the deliberate error...

 

PB240021.jpg

 

No, not "there's no pitch control rods there".  Droop. Dammit.

I forgot to model the blades with droop, and all 4 blades are perpendicular to the main shaft.  Gaagrgrgrgrhhhhhh

 

S'no big deal really.  I learned what I needed to learn from that print run.  The rotor head fix took all of 30 seconds to add 3 degrees of droop.

The main change I made was to add the pitch change rods to the print model.  Originally I was going to add them later from the usual brass rod, but I know it's such a struggle to make a decent job of that, so in this instance, it seemed to make sense to add them at the print stage.

 

A new print run has been started and will be ready tomorrow, but since it's Thanksgiving here, I doubt I'm going to be allowed downstairs to play

You'll just have to be satisfied with these test shots

The blades turned out better than Fujimi's attempt as well.

 

PB240020.jpg

 

Version 1.  Now obsolete.  a bit like me.

 

PB240022.jpg

 

I should really have sprayed some primer on these to let you see the detail, but since I knew I was scrapping them, there didn't seem much point.

 

PB240018.jpg

 

For a laugh I should build up Fujimi's MRGB and blades etc. and do a comparison shot.

This is looking much more like it.

 

PB240019.jpg

 

and that's it for today folks.  

In the next episode I should have a working rotor assembly all connected up - if things go according to plan that is.

 

Happy Thanksgiving all.  

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, coneheadff said:

Yeah, maybe...but how on earth are you drawing up stuff like a gear box, rotor head in such a short time??????

Awesome!!!! 

 

Alex 

how on earth are you drawing up stuff like a gear box, rotor head?

 

What do you start with?

 

Blank screen?

 

Drawn image?

 

Help

 

I am trying to get to grips with fusion360 but the initial step eludes me, I can 'get' modifying the initial shapes but I just cannot get the shapes to start from...

 

Mrs P says take a course, you can do it online...

 

So little time.

 

Having a Roy moment today :(  "Shoulders of Orion"

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Lovely rotor head and blades there Alan. Would have been interesting to see/understand how they get support whilst printing? I can see a couple there connected at the inner end, so are there other connectors going outwards between those two blades?

 

Terry

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5 hours ago, coneheadff said:

Yeah, maybe...but how on earth are you drawing up stuff like a gear box, rotor head in such a short time??????

Awesome!!!! 

 

Alex 

 

It was only the rotor head and blade that I drew up on Monday. The MRGB probably took a few sessions over a number of days.

 

4 hours ago, perdu said:

I am trying to get to grips with fusion360 but the initial step eludes me, I can 'get' modifying the initial shapes but I just cannot get the shapes to start from...

 

I wish I could help you Bill but I've never messed with Fusion so wouldn't know where to start,  sorry.

 

4 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Would have been interesting to see/understand how they get support whilst printing?

 

I'll try and post a few screenshots and info later today Ian oops... Terry. Hopefully that will throw some light on the matter.

 

 

edit: got names wrong 'doh!

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My point Alan is where do you start, on any CAD program?

Do you have a design drawing you make a copy of?

Do you start by drawing a line?

 

I know I am going to need proper eddicating and that means getting sensible, I suspect my owner thinks she can get me a printer and make me happy.

 

I suspect that would have me 'fragged in a tent' mentally if I can't get the basics first.

 

😲

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35 minutes ago, perdu said:

Do you have a design drawing you make a copy of?

Do you start by drawing a line?

 

Oh it would be lovely if design drawings were available. Sadly, for most things we modelers need, there are no drawings, and often very little information.

I try to find some reference dimensions, either from a kit part that I'm "upgrading", or even from reference photos.  i.e that bit fits there and looks to be 2/3rds the length of the wingspan, and so on - pretty much how you scratch any part.

For the digital model I look at the basic forms, and in a lot of cases, you can build the model as if you were machining it. For example, start with a square block, and remove the bits that don't look like what you need.  I try and look for the major/primary core part first - the part that all other parts will grow from/be removed from.

 

If we take the MRGB for example - just where do you start?  Well for me, looking at it from a CAD perspective, the MRGB is really a rather basic shape which can be revolved around a central axis like this:

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-091929.png

 

That is just a simple 2D sketch rotated around a central axis

In SolidWorks (and other CAD programs I've used) *mostly* everything is based around a few simple features such as EXTRUDE and REVOLVE.  You can extrude a boss (add something), or extrude a cut (remove something). You can revolve a boss, or revolve a cut.

This is the SW toolbar. 95% of the time I use those 4 functions I just mentioned. 

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-093431.png

 

So once I had the basic shape blocked in, it was a case of looking at reference shots and seeing what needed adding or removing to make it more like an MRGB.  Here I did another couple of revolves and an extrude of small rectangles. Note the small rectangle on either side of the top flange in this shot... that is destined to become an array of bolts

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092011.png

 

Once those shapes were in place I could start adding some finer detail like fillets. The beauty of CAD is that in most cases you only ever have to draw things once.

That bolt was then used in a circular array around the central axis to produce this

(I'm showing my bad practice here - I normally name all the features in the feature tree so I can find things easier later, but was lazy/in a rush so I didn't bother this time)

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092056.png

 

Everything created in CAD is created on a plane. Sometimes, the usual Top/Front/Right planes aren't enough and you have to create your own. In this instance I've created a plane offset from the model

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092339.png

 

which allows me to draw this inverted Vee shape.  Those little green symbols are constraints -  I can add constraints to each entity (line, circle, arc etc.) to constrain it with certain parameters such as tangent, coincident, parallel etc.  I like to fix my sketches in this way so they don't jump around if I modify another feature that was created earlier in the model.

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092254.png

which can then be extruded into the MRGB, and then other features are added one by one and the finer details like fillets and chamfers added

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092522.png

 

I mentioned you only need to create things once.  here's another example:  I created the pump/mechanical housing thing at the bottom of the MRGB here and detailed it with fillets and pseudo bolts.

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092557.png

Then all I have to do is mirror it across a plane and I can start adding further detail as necessary

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092641.png

 

Eventually we end up with something that looks like an MRGB - hopefully

 

 

Screenshot-2021-11-25-092730.png

 

I know CAD can be daunting to newcomers Bill, and I like others struggled to begin with.  The main thing is not to be too adventurous at the outset as it's too easy to get out of your depth.

Way back when I first started, I would look for simple objects around the home and try to recreate those in 2D. That way I had something in my hand that I could measure and look at from different angles.  I look at an object and try to break it down into the simplest collection of shapes I can imagine, and use those shapes to recreate things in 3 dimensions, starting with the most basic form, and then it's just adding or subtracting one simple feature at a time.

In CAD there's no right or wrong way - there's better ways and not so good ways, but if you can achieve your purpose then it works.  I can think of at least half a dozen unique ways to draw something as simple as a 2 dimensional square. None of them are wrong - they all make a square - but I may choose one method over another based on a particular modeling situation.

 

I'm not sure if that's helped any or just muddied the waters further?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 11/20/2021 at 1:02 AM, hendie said:

I've cut through the rubbers themselves many times arghhhhh).  This still leaves little nubs of support behind on the rubber but I've found a nice little rub on an old worn micromesh pad does a fine job of removing any excess sticky outy bits.

Not for the faint hearted then, that's for sure. It does sound more than a tad uncomfortable. Could leave a nasty rash too!

 

Other than that, fine work indeed. The rubbers and the landing gear all look the part, along with all the fine pipery work on tail and power supply bits.

 

Great stuff!

 

Ian

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8 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

Would have been interesting to see/understand how they get support whilst printing? I can see a couple there connected at the inner end, so are there other connectors going outwards between those two blades?

 

Terry, the blades themselves were an easy print set up.  I did two versions with one set printing at around a 30 degree angle, and one set completely vertical.

The blades printing at an angle had medium supports spaced along the leading edge. Based on past experience I expected that to work, but the results weren't great - maybe I need to change out my FEP? 

The problem with the angled method is that you have to clean up the remnants of the support from the leading edge and it can be a pain of a job at times.

I thought I'd also have a go at printing them vertically. The benefit being that less supports are needed, but at the expense of time.  Printing the blades at a layer height of 0.2mm with a 7 second cure time took over 18 hours.

The support system for the vertical blade was really pretty simple as can be seen here.

 

Blade3.png

 

For the most part I have used medium supports with a modified head diameter

 

Blade2.png

 

and I used a couple of light supports for the pitch change lever. One to start off the rubber cover, and another at the bend of the pitch change lever as light supports never seem to withstand the printing process and I didn't want the lever to break away mid print under the tension as it is pulled from the FEP.

(I very rarely use heavy supports anywhere - only in the most extreme cases and where I'm not really bothered about surface finish.)

 

Blade1.png

 

When the parts are fresh out of the vat, it's easy enough just to slice through the supports with a new blade though you still have to take care as they can easily just pull apart, especially on those small features like the pitch change lever here.

In this instance I chose to hit everything with the light sabre prior to removing the base supports and used a razor saw instead, gently drawing the blade across the support just using the weight of the blade and no force.  A couple of swipes and the support came away.

The vertical blades did print with an ever so slight bend, which isn't surprising given the overall length - almost 100 mm.  As I cured them with the light sabre (my preferred method these days), it was interesting to watch the amount of warp induced.  

I've shown here one of the blades (printed at an angle) as an example, and only cured one side, and you can see how much warp has been induced in the right hand end - it now bows upwards, towards the cured side.

 

PB250005.jpg

 

The remedy was simple - as I cured the opposite side, I held the blade flat against a solid surface, and a coupe of passes with the light sabre brought everything back into place.

This is one of the blades I'll be using in the final build shown below.

 

PB250006.jpg

 

Setting up the MRGB was a lot easier than I had anticipated.  This may look complicated but looks can be deceiving.

 

MRGB1.png

 

This is all the support that's needed for the MRGB.  

Right at the base I have used 4 x heavy supports as that is an easy surface to clean up after printing and I wanted to make sure I had a good solid base for the MRGB.

Moving upwards from there, I have used medium supports ( again with a modified head diameter ) to connect anything that would start printing in mid air. Strictly speaking, I don't think I needed the supports on the pitch change rods, but better safe than sorry, and again, an easy clean up afterwards.  For things like bolt heads, I just used light supports.

 

MRGB2.png

 

In this close up you can see the difference between the medium and the light supports.  Note the little grey rectangles clustered around those bolt heads on the underside of the rotor head - indicating that they need supports or won't print successfully.

 

MRGB3.png

 

On my original print I had a bunch of light supports going to each individual bolt head, but have since changed the design - I've added a small leg behind the bolt head leading to the main shaft, eliminating the need for any supports at all.  The features are that small and the leg will be between the bolt and the main shaft that it will be impossible to see.

 

 

Does that help?

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, hendie said:

  I did try a few other methods involving rubber tube and bits of plastic

Steady Lad!

 

Nice head job. This printing lark is awfully impressive. Your explanations make it seem almost easy enough for a luddite like me.

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That does help a lot thanks Alan, and printing the blades vertically is obvious when you consider how the printing works, but less obvious to the newcomer..........

 

Also, this picture gave me one of those light bulb moments, especially when you pointed out the supports needed for those bolts sitting below their relevant surfaces - with the printing actually taking place from bottom to top, anything hanging down like that will have its lower parts printed first, so will need support. Conversely, same principle I guess when using printing that prints from top downwards.

You can't print anything in mid air!

Very simple basics, but initially not so obvious to us newbies!

 

1 hour ago, hendie said:

MRGB2.png

 

Thanks for explaining and getting my brain to think logically again!

 

Who knows, when I eventually get a 3D printer and start messing, I might actually have a tiny tiny inkling of what is going on!

 

Terry

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Don’t know what I like the most: Greeblies under primer, That nimbus (the mesh is something else) , the paintwork , the window rubbers or the 3D tutorial. Screw it it’s all good. Grand catch up. Thanks for filling my mojo tanks a little more dear boy. Happy thanks giving. 😀🍗

 

 Johnny

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On 11/25/2021 at 2:09 PM, Pete in Lincs said:

Steady Lad!

 

Nice head job. This printing lark is awfully impressive. Your explanations make it seem almost easy enough for a luddite like me.

 

Awfully impressive, but taking its toll.  I just discovered today that my printer screen is starting to deteriorate - must order a new one asap.  I can't complain though as I think I've had my money's worth out of that one.

 

On 11/25/2021 at 3:11 PM, perdu said:

Certainly does Alan, tomorrow I will fire up Fusion and play with a shape or two.

 

 

:thumbsup:

Good luck Bill.

 

On 11/25/2021 at 3:12 PM, Terry1954 said:

That does help a lot thanks Alan, and printing the blades vertically is obvious when you consider how the printing works, but less obvious to the newcomer..........

 

Also, this picture gave me one of those light bulb moments, especially when you pointed out the supports needed for those bolts sitting below their relevant surfaces - with the printing actually taking place from bottom to top, anything hanging down like that will have its lower parts printed first, so will need support. Conversely, same principle I guess when using printing that prints from top downwards.

You can't print anything in mid air!

Very simple basics, but initially not so obvious to us newbies!

 

 

Thanks for explaining and getting my brain to think logically again!

 

Who knows, when I eventually get a 3D printer and start messing, I might actually have a tiny tiny inkling of what is going on!

 

Terry

 

Getting your head around everything printing upside down is the key.  The first thing I do when I import a model is turn it around a few times and just examine it from the "upside down" angle.  It's amazing what you can spot that way.

 

On 11/25/2021 at 4:08 PM, James G said:

All this techy stuff is very impressive, and turning into a great model!

 

thanks James. 

 

On 11/25/2021 at 6:58 PM, The Spadgent said:

Don’t know what I like the most: Greeblies under primer, That nimbus (the mesh is something else) , the paintwork , the window rubbers or the 3D tutorial. Screw it it’s all good. Grand catch up. Thanks for filling my mojo tanks a little more dear boy. Happy thanks giving. 😀🍗

 

 Johnny

 

the greeblies get my vote.    am I allowed to vote in my own thread?

 

With the recent holiday here along with some vacation days that I threw into the mix, I have managed to get a decent amount of work done over the last few days.

It was time to start thinking about putting this altogether so there was a quick scan around to see what still needed done.  One of the more obvious items was the tail rotor. 

It will come as no surprise that the kit part is fairly basic so it was tarted up with a few greeblies in the form of meng resin nuts.

 

PB260010.jpg

 

There was no pitch change mechanism at all so one was scratched using more meng resin nuts and a bit of leftover Vampire, or was it Venom.  Anyways, it was a leftover bit.

 

PB260013.jpg

 

then given a splash of color

 

PB260014.jpg

 

a bunch of spraying has been going on in the background, so while waiting on paint to dry I took the opportunity to fit the seats in the cabin. GS Hypo being the adhesive of choice as it left me plenty of time for shoogling bits around until I was happy with the position.

 

PB270020.jpg

 

Starboard side.  Nav lights also glued in position now.

 

PB270022.jpg

 

A general overall shot of where she stands

 

PB270023.jpg

 

Now the bit I've been waiting for - the rotor head.   A few adjustments were made after the first test print and it came out quite nicely.

The printed part doesn't take long to clean up, so after a quick cure, it was primed and painted.  If you can remember back, I fitted the MRGB with some brass tubing. I can't remember the OD exactly, but the ID was 2mm, so a length of 2mm rod was slipped up the bottom, and if that doesn't bring Ced back in a rush, well...

 

PB270024.jpg

 

That's all fine and well, but how does it look in place after all that?

 

PB270025.jpg

 

Works for me!

 

Moving closer and closer to that finish line... the tail rotor was painted - which was a really fun task. Not.

I did notice while masking this little beast that the kit part isn't quite the right shape, but by this point I'm about done making replacement parts for poor kit parts.  It's close enough.

 

PB270026.jpg

 

The home brewed rotor blades were painted up too.  This was another masking buggr as the green/black demarcation is long the leading edge.  Thanks heavens for Aizu tape again.  The tamiya tape just didn't want to roll around that front edge, so I used 0.5mm Aizu followed by wide strips until I could use Tamiya.

 

PB270027.jpg

 

Wheels were fitted using GS Hypo.  I did spot that the wheel started falling over while taking this shot, so they were supported with a couple of toothpicks until the Hypo cured

 

PB270029.jpg

 

After all that malarkey it was time for the fun part - fitting the blades!  Hooray!

 

PB270039.jpg

 

The blades are just dry fitted at the moment as I wanted to make sure I had the droop angle about right before committing to the hard stuff.

What say the hive? Is the angle of the dangle about right?  Too shallow? Too steep?

 

PB270033.jpg

 

About halfway through this build I really started regretting having ever started it.  It was never in my great plan of things to build.  However, having gotten over the hump i the build, I started to really enjoy it again, and it's becoming one of my favorite builds.

 

PB270034.jpg

 

As you can see above, the tail rotor was fitted, along with a couple of lamps on the tail pylon.

 

PB270035.jpg

 

It will come as no surprise to anyone that my favorite part of this build was all the greebling around the transmission deck.

I think the time and effort spent on the digital modeling, along with the hours spent bending ridiculously small lengths of wire and pushing them into invisible holes was well worth it.

 

PB270036.jpg

 

There's not a lot left to do, other than look...

 

PB270037.jpg

 

Top shot

 

PB270040.jpg

 

Aside from the DANGER stickers on the tail, all that's left to do now is fit a few aerials here and there, add the tail surface - and try not to break it off yet again.

 

PB270043.jpg

 

Then some touch ups with the gloss and flat coats and I think I can call it a day on 660's Scout.

Until the next exciting episode I'll leave you with this shot

 

PB270039.jpg

 

I'm unlikely to get it finished this weekend as I have a bunch of stuff going on, and I also have to figure out if I can still get in to the UK next week.  I'm taking a quick trip back to the motherland to visit my mother who is a bit poorly at the moment.  However, my wife has just been telling me that travel is all up in the air what with new COVID variants and so on.  I may have to give BA a call tomorrow and see what's going on.

I was so looking forward to a black pudding supper from the local chip shop too

 

Toodle pip y'all

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wowza wowza woo hoo! That does look amazing. The printed complexity in the engine and transmission department, coupled with plain old school modelling chops, makes for a magnificent model.

 

I don’t usually get emotive about Westland Scouts, either :)

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

PS hope your travel plans work out. Trying to get my daughter home for Xmas, so I know what it’s like!

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Amazing bit of helicoptery. All the time spent on the engine, transmission, rotors was well spent. After all, these things stand out.

 

Cheers,

Wlad

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8 hours ago, hendie said:

so a length of 2mm rod was slipped up the bottom, and if that doesn't bring Ced back in a rush, well...

I say! It's 07:25 of a Sunday morning here in the Lincolnshire snow. So that made my eye's water. He's still missing in inaction so I'll add a f'nar in his honour.

For such a simple Aircraft it's turned out to be awfully complicated. But your combination of skill and printing has given us a beauty to wonder at.

That's an amazing trans deck and I can't help but think that possibly only Bandai, with their slide mould technology, could reproduce it with injection moulding.

Good luck with the travel. 

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