BeastieBoy73 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I purchased some Revell Contacta Professional Glue a few weeks ago for the first time and I'm struggling to use it. I removed the black cover from the needle and have tried squeezing the blue bottle but no glue comes out. Do I need to unscrew the yellow plastic part/needle and remove something stopping the flow of glue or is the needle blocked with glue? The needle doesn't unscrew easily and I don't want to force it off unnessessarily. Thanks for any advice you can give on what is likely to be a very simple question . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhouse Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 If it's anything like mine, it's just dried glue blocking the metal tube. To fix it you need a pair of pliers and a flame. You can use a match but a candle is easier. Remove the cover and carefully pull the metal tube out of the threaded plastic cap that is attached to the main body. You may need to use the pliers the first time as it's a close fit. Light the candle. Hold the tube by the pliers towards one end. Hold the other end in the flame, moving it black and forth. Watch carefully for a mini-flamethrower effect - a small jet of flame will shoot out of the end of the tube. Just in case there is a second blockage at the other end, hold the tube by the other end and repeat the process. Allow the tube to cool for about 20 seconds. When it's cool enough to hold you can re-insert in in the cap. It's easy and quite good fun if you have the slightest essence of pyromaniac about you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeastieBoy73 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Wow, thanks very much for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngstROM Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Without resorting to incendiary methods, a few inches of 0.3mm detailing wire from little-cars.com carefully pushed into the tube (no need to pull the applicator apart) will usually unblock it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Arnold Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Hi I use a small length of 24swg piano wire which is just the wright size to go through the needle if you cant get the piano wire 10lb (4.5 kg) fishing line also works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) I love setting fire to things as much as anyone, but should you wish to use wire another useful source is to take a piece of Bowden cable (a small length of bicycle gear change cable for example) and carefully strip all the outer pieces off until you are left with the central core which is a straight thin length of high tensile steel, which is also very useful for a myriad of other uses in model making (perfect for making broken undercarriage leg splints for example). Edited February 9, 2017 by modelmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smudgeboy Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 This may sound simplistic, but I recently bought a brand new bottle of the same stuff, and had the same problem - I found that by lightly squeezing the bottle, and simultaneously (also lightly!) tapping the end of the 'needle' on a hard surface (in this case the edge of my desk), the glue seemed to start flowing, as if drawn out by some form of capillary action. Might be worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardie Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I generally go with the thin wire - guitar string, fine guage brass wire etc. A little thing to note is that the contacta bottle tops are a left handed thread. They unscrew to the right rather than the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I go for the wire too. My wire is the wire core of a bread-bag tie with the plastic stripped back and the end curled up to make a grip. Occasionally I do resort to the flame, but only when its really gunged up on the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeastieBoy73 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Thanks to you all for taking time to advise. As a newbie, it doesn't bode well for the future of I'm struggling to get glue out of a tube. I think I'll hang on a bit before I have a crack at airbrushing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardie Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Ah well who is exposed to surgical needle-like glue applicators in everyday life? I am sure you will get to grips with the rest of the business no bother at all. One thing I will point out is to be careful and sparing with the contacta, it is very runny and if you do get it in the wrong place don't wipe it off as it will already have started to dissolve the plastic where it has landed, run to, etc. Just leave it to dry and either it will have caused barely noticeable damage or can be rectified by a quick sand with fine wet and dry paper. One of the great arts of modelling that I didn't realise as a kid is that glue will occasionally get into the wrong places and a modeller learns how to fix it when it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chimpion Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I use a long dressmaking pin with a ball-head. It both clears the tube and seals it after use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeastieBoy73 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 I see what you mean about not using too much of the glue... I'm building the Revell Glitterbug and spilt some glue inside the drivers head. 24 hours later and the back of his head has taken on the look of a week old Halloween pumpkin. You live. You learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayprit Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Throw the cap away, use a piece of wire, I use brass wire, about an inch in length, narrow enough to slip inside the steel tube that is blocked, BEND that piece of wire 90 degrees to the steel tube after glueing has finished, KEEP that wire permanently inside the steel tube, because clogging of that tube is very common, even after a minute or so(depends on the temperature of the room your working in) I have had the same piece of wire in my tube/bottle for about 10 years, transfering from bottle to bottle as they empty. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 My bit o wire only lasts a week or so. Every time I need a thin bit of wire to make handles or somat I grab the nearest bit of fine wire. Then when t'glue needs pokied I can't find said pokie wire cos - durn it, I just used the durn thing So its off for a rummage in the fine wires box for another Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now