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Vinnie

Swann Morton

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Hello. Firstly, are these knives better than craft knives such as Stanley disposables? I'm initially looking for one to help with masking and detailing 1:72 canopy/turrets. Any suggestions for handle and blade numbers, please.

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The best knives I've ever used FULL STOP!

Lots of blade options, easy to handle and the blades, being soooo sharp, make a clean cut on your fingers that heals easily!

Don't ask.....

 

Rick.

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agree with Rick best blades around, I tend to use scalpels  & a pack of 100 blades on t'internet set me back about 8quid ( a while back admittedly ) so cheap as chips too. as rick says tho, watch your fingers especially when changing blades ( I grip in pliers, much safer )

 

from another Rick

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Oh, yes, don't forget the pliers!

 

Rick#2

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I concur with all the above.

Plus; the handles are flat, thus they don't roll off your desk and stab you in the foot

I use sizes 3, 4 and SM.

SM is good for heavy work, 3 is best for delicate work; like trimming tape for canopy masking

Blades for handle 3; most usual ones are no 10A or 11 - straight pointy. I also use 12, [hooked shape, edge inside the curve] and 10, [curved edge]

Handle 4 takes similar but bigger blades

SM handles takes heavier usage blades

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I agree also! None of the 'craft' knives come close. I have never found one of those 'chuck' type knife handles that really grips the blade and the flat scalpel handle doesn't roll as stated above. The blades are very sharp but remember that, when starting cutting masks you always need a brand new blade to ensure a clean cut and you need to learn to only use a light touch to cut through the masking without marking the surface of the model. Number 3 handle with number 11 blades are my go-to although I use other types now and then.

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29 minutes ago, Beardie said:

 I have never found one of those 'chuck' type knife handles that really grips the blade and the flat scalpel handle doesn't roll as stated above.

Agree with Marty, that said they can be a pretty useful general purpose knife in addition to scalpels, however if you do get one make sure the jaws within the collet are metal and not the nylon type, cause as Beardy says the just won't grip....and yes they do roll away.

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Those round handle jobs are useful, but when they roll off the work top your natural reaction is to close your legs to try and catch them.

Again, don't ask.

 

Rick.

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One useful point as well is that there is a nice weight in a good metal scalpel handle. With a sharp blade it will almost cut cleanly without pressure plus they are good for throwing at the carpet monster :D

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Two partially severed fingers many years ago and a few years apart can testify to their sharpness.

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4 minutes ago, Darby said:

Two partially severed fingers many years ago and a few years apart can testify to their sharpness.

:yikes:

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If you're planning on getting one of those magnetic tool/knife holders to keep your tools tidy, make sure you get the ferric handes, so they're stick to the magnetic strip :idea:

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I find the 15 and 15A blades the ones I use most often - they are ideal for fine cutting and trimming. Occasionally reach for the no 11, 10A or 6 (and yes, I have a handle for each!) or even more occasionally the No 4 handle and 23 blade for serious work!

 

BTW if you are at all squeamish, don't read the descriptions on the SM website as to what these were really designed for!

Edited by Dave Fleming

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Thanks again for all of the advice, oh and by the way extra plasters now being kept in the 'cave':o

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Can't beat them as the others have said. I started using them for cutting masking film on paper, cut the film but not the paper (and not digits Rick!).

 

To do what you want them for...Ideal!

 

Size 10A is what I use 99% of the time

Edited by bzn20

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19 hours ago, Beardie said:

My 'general purpose' knife is a 'Rambo' style Bowie knife :evil_laugh:

lol

why does this spring to mind?

 

knife.jpg

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Mine's just about that size although it has a survival pack inside the handle and the back of the blade can be used as a basic saw. Thing is razor sharp and has so much meat behind it that it will even do basic light duty wood chopping. To be honest though it has lived in my bergen for many moons now without tasting blood :D

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Another SM fan here (not S&M that's a rather different hobby ;)) My go to handle these days is the retractable one as petrol to and from A&E was getting very expensive :P the handle is aluminium so it won't stick to Mikes magnetic strip so I just put a loop of paracord through the hole and hang it from a cup hook

Retractable%20Scapel%20handle%20Medium_z

 

It usually houses a no.10A blade and it has become second nature to retract the blade whenever I put it down.

I also have a no.3 handle with either a no.6 or 11 blade, but I find as I have large hands that it doesn't sit very comfortably as is, so I just did a paracord wrap, it's not round so it doesn't roll but has a bit more body and a much better grip

 

Scalpel%20Handle%20No3%20Blade%20No%206%

 

This also hangs from a cup hook and so I don't slice myself every time I go near it I made a little blade cover

 

Scalpel%20Handle%20No3%20Blade%20No%206%

Scalpel%20Handle%20No3%20Blade%20No%206%

 

All it is is a bit of PET (pepsi bottle) wrapped around the slicing end and heated with a lighter-blowtorch then I trimmed it to size and it holds itself on the blade but comes off with a gentle tug AND it cuts (?) down on the trips to A&E and I don't have to clean blood off of my table anywhere near as often :whistle:

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Thanks, MD. My blades have arrived, just waiting on the handle. I keep re-reading the answers and wonder if this is a good idea. I tend to be a bit ham-fisted and I think blood letting may be involved, so any advice on safety is much appreciated.  

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7 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

Thanks, MD. My blades have arrived, just waiting on the handle. I keep re-reading the answers and wonder if this is a good idea. I tend to be a bit ham-fisted and I think blood letting may be involved, so any advice on safety is much appreciated.  

Well, you've started more safely than I did by buying a knife with a flat handle.

My craft knife has a round handle and I stupidly tried to catch it when it rolled off the table. I did catch it, guess which end I caught?  :(

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Much better than a throwaway.

 

There are two handle sizes, no 4 and no 3. They each have a different rang of blades.

 

Most modellers go for the smaller no3 handle and blades.  The popular blades are no 10, 10a and 11 and you can buy a start set with a handle and 5 blades.

Blades are sold as packs of 5 or boxes of 100 (20 packs of 5).

Have a look at the different shapes of blades, they are all useful to someone:  http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/swann-morton-no-3-handles--blades-39-c.asp

The biggest problem is removing the blades. I suggest you buy a Blade Removal Unit, after a bit of practice it's a doddle to take the blades off safely : http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/swann-morton-blade-removal-box-helps-remove-blades-stores-them-5139-p.asp   Swan morton  have a little video to show you how to use this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oksoBUODsE

 

Paul

 

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