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MFH - 1:20 Eagle T1G 1968


PC2012

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I still haven't received heard or received anything from Profil 24, so the Maser is on hold for the time being. I've had some progress on the Eagle though. I've managed to complete the HT leads etc. I have to add the rest of the Engine ancillaries and add some more washes. I've also been drilling the bodyshell for riveting (an endless job!). But should be finished in a week or so (the drilling I mean), then of course thousands of rivets... it least it seems like that. I must say though I'm really enjoying this build :).

Progress so far......

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Thanks Borez. This is the inside of the cockpit. In the first picture I have polished the metal with a Dremel and brass wire brush. You can see how pitted it is. In the second picture I have polished it further using various grades of wet and dry. It took about 2 hrs to get it to this stage. I'll rivet it next using the metal 0.5mm rivets from MFH, then re-polish it. Most of the polished metal will have to be treated this way, to get the finish I want.... More soon..

 

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Small weekly update and some good news. Alice called and was sorry about the delay but the windscreens for the Maser are on their way! I've left the engine this week and have been drilling holes for the riveting. I also tested the 0.5 MFH metal rivets the metal work and they are too small. So I have ordered some .75mm rivets. They should look in scale, I'll find out this week. I have just about completed one half of the body. I found the best way was to put them in first, until I had done a row, Then tape down the heads on the outside then CA them on the inside. Here are some pics, I'll post more when I've completed one full side. Slow work, but therapeutic :)

 

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A small this update. Cockpit tub riveted. Don't know why I've done all this because when the seat is in it completely hides the inside of the cockpit tub! I still have to rivet the right side of the body, although the holes have been drilled so it's all ready. MAN models have run out of the 0.5 resin rivets, so I've had to order some from Russia. Just waiting for them to turn up. I'm going to test fit some of the parts and post later....

 

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And there was me complaining about the sheer amount of holes I was having to drill in my 917K MFH kit.

 

I think you win that award hands down though with your rivets.

 

You are now officially a rivet counter.

 

Superb work though mate, especially the polishing. Looking splendid :thumbsup:

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Borez. I have received my rivets from Russia so it's back to riveting again. Doesn't make for an exiting update! But it has to be done.... one rivet at a time...ahhhhhhg :mellow:. I have checked the fit of the seat, looks fine. I may this week spray some primer for the seat and instrument panel. I plan to wire all the instruments... in for a penny!

 

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Stunning build, love the tub, I don't envy you all that riveting though.

Can I ask, how are you going to finish the tub after riveting? I have a MFH Ferrari 312t4 and have ballsed up the polishing with the drimmel in a few places,  to be honest the casting wasn't that good either so will probably prime and coat with polished aluminium. 

Also you previously said you decant the etching primer into your airbrush, I presume you then thin it! if so what sort of ratio?

 

Regards

John

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Thanks everyone for your comments. Hugh, I'll use Gauzy intermediate to protect the tub, then I can leave it polished. In fact I'll use it for all the polished metal (there is a lot of it in this car). I only use the dremmel to start the polishing process. Then I'll use various grades of wet and dry.. 1000 to maybe 8000. Before finishing off with solvol. The reason I use decanted primer (and subsequent topcoats) is because I don't have to thin it. I use a straw attached to the nozzle. Then cover a container with clingfilm. Poke a hole in it, stick the straw in... and spray. You have to leave it about half an hour until the propellant boils away... then you're good to go. Hope that helps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got most of the body riveted now. Not a job I would recommend, although worth it in the long run. Just the nose to do now. I used nearly nine packets containing 180 rivets in each! I have to file down the inside now, so that everything fits. Then I'm going to prime the body and take it from there. I have bought some watchmakers tap and die's. I have some 1.4mm threads to tap... does anyone know the right size hole to drill? Thanks in advance for your help :)

 

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19 hours ago, PC2012 said:

I have bought some watchmakers tap and die's. I have some 1.4mm threads to tap... does anyone know the right size hole to drill? Thanks in advance for your help :)

 

 

It will depend on the material as to the best size drill....for metal I would use a 1.2mm drill...but for plastic or resin a smaller size is adequate....as the tap will cut itself the desired depth of thread.

Keep in mind....whatever the material....always use a lubricant to prevent the tap binding and snapping.

Hope this helps.

 

Ron

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Another quick update. I've been drilling and tapping the threads for the 8 screws that hold the body to the cockpit tub. It has to be painted first because the body is integral to the subsequent stages of the build. I have also tested the fit of the engine. I will be building the inside of the cockpit next :)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update. The engine still needs a lot of work but getting there. I'm getting the body ready for spraying as it's an integral part of the build and I can't do more until it's done. More soon...

 

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Thanks Borez. Another small update. I haven't finished yet but I wanted the instrument panel to look something like the original. I tried to subtly stress the paint. BTW it's my first go with Zero paints and 2K clear coat. I assume the decals have to go on before the clear coat. Any advice would be appreciated.. :)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think I've done this wrong, as I put some of the decals on before the clearcoat. So I've stopped for now in case I've messed it up. If anyone has any ideas or help on what I can do, please feel free to comment...

 

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Great Build!  The rivets look like a tedious job, but they really make the mode look great.  I wish we could get an injected plastic kit of this car, the MFH is hard to justify with my limited budget.

I normally clear coat before I apply the decals, it helps prevent silvering.  I then clear coat again after they are all finished drying to protect them.

 

Arrin

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Thanks Arrin. That's what I thought. I'll have to apply more microsol to make sure there's no chance they can 'silver', that's all I can do. I could kick myself for not realizing, such a stupid mistake. I should have known better. I'll cross my fingers it turns out alright...

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First time using zero paints and first time using a clearcoat lacquer. I Still have the nose to do with the decals and the rest of the decals on the body. I won't do anything stupid hopefully next time! Still needs another coat on the body and of course after the decals have been sorted another coat or two. But getting there.. phew..

 

 

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