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Falklands Sea Harrier - La Muerta Negra


Pappy

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On 15 de janeiro de 2017 at 4:52 PM, NG899 said:

 

"Let's build an Airfix SHAR FA2... Suitable only for well-adjusted adults who are not prone to bouts of unrestrained rage, swearing or self-harm.  A full command of the builder's own language and vocabulary would be useful to alleviate the monotony of using the same choice expressions over and over again, especially when applying the decals.  It is recommended that the builder takes regular breaks to avoid stress build-up, as well as allowing occasional exposure to natural light as this model may take a while.  This model is not designed for flight and has not been stressed for sudden impact with walls or floor.  Caveat emptor...!       

 

Might we also take the opportunity to recommend some useful products which might come in handy when making this kit.

 

Humbrol Model Filler                  One large tube per kit should suffice - apply kit to filler, rather than vice versa

Humbrol Medium Sea Grey       Available in a variety of shades - including dark green in a tin labelled 165 it seems

Wet & Dry - various grades       As much as you can carry, maybe more

Book of Eastern Meditation       To bang your head on

Prozac - Extra Strong                 As much as you can 'score' locally

Telephone no. for Samaritans   Just in case it’s all  too much......!"  Frequent calls may be needed.

 

Remembering that we are model-makers and, having built 14 Airfix SHAR FRS.1s/FA.2s and 2 GR.3s, all I can say is - "Thank goodness for Kinetic!"  Cheers, Nick

 

LOL

I DO know what this means! I have spent almost 2 years with mine...

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12 hours ago, Jon Kunac-Tabinor said:

 well they don't on mine now!!! :)  But thanks for the making me aware of that.

 

 

Jonners

 

Sorry to hear that Jonners,

 

I plan on having the nose gear doors open and the mains closed, but sagging slightly as per Selwyn's post. I was wondering how you went about adding the additional bulges to the cannon pods? It looks like you used scrap plastic or sprue and built up the sides with putty? The gun pods are the one area of the kit that I am the most disappointed with. Whilst other areas contain errors or could have been more detailed, they are easily fixed but the cannon pods are frustrating and this is what is holding me up at the moment.

 

G'day people,

 

I am still trying to get the Aden cannon pods up to an acceptable standard and this is proving frustrating.meanwhile,  I have been working on a figure to accompany the jet. I have been working on this little fella on and off for the past week

 

DSCN3719_zps7nggfsoi.jpg

 

DSCN3718_zps7ex3a0ez.jpg

 

DSCN3717_zps2r8gfpxl.jpg

 

I present the bearded one,

 

DSCN3798_zpskn2pbbmp.jpg

 

DSCN3802_zps3edt1rmn.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

 

 

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He does look a little Sharky-esque!!

 

Hi Pappy - at least the UC doors are underneath!

 

For the gun pods: I did a few things.

9ABFA972-6529-4C11-832E-0724320CB0C1_zps

 

Vents and holes were just drilled ( I back filled the insides of the pods at the front to give a bit of robustness to the area first). The long thin strake-like bulges are made form plastic sheet of a suitable thickness, cut to a very flat curve then chamfered to a rounded section. These were then gingerly sliced from the sheet and applied to each side of the pod, blende din will filled and then worked into to blend them down further.

 

This back of a fag-pack diagram illustrates what I mean with luck!

7A9E5EC1-46EE-4759-84C3-FA1176615BE2_zps

 

I felt that the large bulge on each side of the pod was the wrong shape and too defined, so this was removed, and a teardrop shape made from CA/talc filler mix applied, then blended in. The gas vents on top were plastic strip sanded to shape, applied, blended and refined, as was the "semi-circular" bulge at the base of the pod too.  I added some strip inside the ejection port too.

 

 

I'm almost done on mine now - and it's looking OK - but it's not one of my best. But it will do.

C93C2272-F82D-4DFC-8648-F43A1549754B_zps

 

Cheers - hope you can get your gun pods to a standard you are OK with - as i reckon your model is going to look bloody lovely!

 

Jonners

 

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  • 2 months later...

G'day people,

 

Well I have finally had a chance to get some bench time in. I have managed to put some work into the gun pods. I am not 100% happy, but I think they look a lot better than what i started with.

 

DSCN4247_zpsuleigweo.jpg

 

DSCN4248_zps0zp5uwhl.jpg

 

These have been added to the lower fuselage. The fit was quite good,

 

DSCN4258_zpsibvq8ixq.jpg

 

Whilst i was working around the lower fuselage, i took the opportunity to add the main gear unit doors.

 

DSCN4259_zpsiarv0wiy.jpg

 

DSCN4260_zpssviztxgi.jpg

 

These had a tendency to droop slightly open as the hydraulic pressure bled off. I have attached these in a slightly drooped pose.

 

Moving to the upper fuselage, I noticed that there was some sort of grab handle looking thingy in front of the ram intake. I added a thingy from some fine copper wire

 

DSCN4257_zpsbrzkqfum.jpg

 

Finally, the armament safety device was added to the right coaming using some scrap plastic

 

DSCN4256_zpsprvmjtom.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

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G'day people,

 

I revisited the LAU-7 missile launcher adapters. The shape of the single LAU-7 adapter is not quite right as the forward and aft ends should taper instead of being just a vertical edge. I hacked away until the kit items more closely resembled my refs. To be truly accurate, the hardback should also be extended outwards but I was satisfied with the level of work performed as I was at the point of diminishing returns.

 

DSCN4262_zps0bhgnroz.jpg

 

My attention now returned to the cockpit. I added the PE HUD frame and the combiner glass

 

DSCN4270_zpsjdzhyotb.jpg

 

DSCN4272_zps6iklh7do.jpg

 

This was just begging to get damaged if left unprotected, so the forward canopy was now installed (the part is only dry fitted in the pics below)

 

DSCN4273_zpswsx6kit8.jpg

 

DSCN4275_zpsuz8skwze.jpg

 

The slight gap below the windscreen wiper motor fairing mostly disappears with some light finger pressure.

 

Whilst I was dealing with canopy, I painted up the MDC inside the rear canopy. This item is depicted using raised detail. I painted the MDC using light grey paint.

 

DSCN4276_zpsdjmfpcmh.jpg

 

When dry, I will clean away the excess paint to leave just the MDC.

The last bit was to give some love to the outrigger wheels.  I had already painted these but my refs show that they typically have a specialised retract ram cover installed when the jet is unattended. I experimented using paper to establish a cutting template than transferred my template to some copper sheet. Some RBF streamers from lead foil completed the outrigger assemblies

 

DSCN4278_zpswaiynfs5.jpg

 

DSCN4279_zpsijiuyuve.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

Edited by Pappy
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8 hours ago, Martian Hale said:

I really like the way the MDC has turned out, I think I will pinch that idea for my kit if you don't mind

 

Martian

 

G'day Martian,

 

I pinched the MDC painting method from someone on this site so feel free,

 

cheers

 

Pappy

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20 hours ago, Pappy said:

 

G'day Martian,

 

I pinched the MDC painting method from someone on this site so feel free,

 

cheers

 

Pappy

That has come out very nicely indeed!

May I ask your technique for cleaning up the edges of the MDC paintwork? Carefully with a cocktail stick?

 

Cheers.

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9 hours ago, hairystick said:

That has come out very nicely indeed!

May I ask your technique for cleaning up the edges of the MDC paintwork? Carefully with a cocktail stick?

 

Cheers.

 

Yup and yup,

 

G'day hairy, it is best if the canopy has not been given a dip in Future etc as the cocktail stick tends to scratch and make a mess. I also find it works best if acrylic paint is used as enamels and lacquers are hotter and tend to bite into the plastic a little better. Once I was happy with the result, I gave the canopy a dip in Future after I was done.

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

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19 hours ago, Pappy said:

G'day hairy, it is best if the canopy has not been given a dip in Future etc as the cocktail stick tends to scratch and make a mess. I also find it works best if acrylic paint is used as enamels and lacquers are hotter and tend to bite into the plastic a little better. Once I was happy with the result, I gave the canopy a dip in Future after I was done.

Thank you for the info!:yes:

I have just dipped my canopy in the "thinner" version of future (I'm led to believe) which Phil Flory suggests giving two dippings to get the required clarity result.

He has changed to "paint first & then dip" which does make sense. Time will tell with my attempt...!

 

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On 17/04/2017 at 5:51 PM, hairystick said:

Thank you for the info!:yes:

I have just dipped my canopy in the "thinner" version of future (I'm led to believe) which Phil Flory suggests giving two dippings to get the required clarity result.

He has changed to "paint first & then dip" which does make sense. Time will tell with my attempt...!

 

 

Good luck.
 

I find that when new, Future is the consistency of water, I don't know how you could get it any thinner, but as it ages, it can thicken, I suppose due to oxidation or evaporation of the carrier,

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

Edited by Pappy
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Query on the beard? I watched all of this on the news at the time, and remember Brian Hanrahan telling us on the BBC that everyone had to shave beards off (he had one) so that their NBC gear fitted.

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On 17/04/2017 at 7:55 PM, John_W said:

Query on the beard? I watched all of this on the news at the time, and remember Brian Hanrahan telling us on the BBC that everyone had to shave beards off (he had one) so that their NBC gear fitted.

 

On 17/04/2017 at 8:34 PM, Francis Macnaughton said:

The policy re beards relaxed fairly early on once it was decided that Argentina was not likely to deploy chemical weapons.  Many ships, mine included, went in for beard growing contests after that.

 

What he said!

 

I think that the beard growing contest was mentioned in Ward's book as well as the photos included 'in theatre' with the presence of facial fuzz.

 

Pappy

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G'day people,

 

I have started painting my SHAR. The original scheme had the undersides painted in gloss white, however the EDSG of the upper surfaces was extended to cover the underside as well during the voyage south. There are several reports that although the same EDSG paint was applied over the white, there was still a discernible variation between the older (original) EDSG and the freshly applied areas. To try and capture this, I lightened my EDSG with some white. I don't know how much as I did not measure the amount and it was achieved strictly in accordance with the TLAR  principle. The paint went on very smoothly for the most part,

 

DSCN4340_zpsxlwksxju.jpg

 

However I ran into a snag when it came to the stabs and wing pylons

 

DSCN4337_zps9qcfvegw.jpg

 

A weird circular area appeared. At first I thought it may have been oil or grease from handling, but it is present on both stabs in the same area. I turned the stabs over and they both have the same sort of surface irregularity on both sides. There is a smaller spot on the inner wing pylons.

 

DSCN4339_zpspiddkczq.jpg

 

The photo does not really capture it but it is like a shiny circle. I will sand these back and re-apply the paint, hopefully that will remedy the problem,

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

G'day people,

 

I gave the stabs a light sand and attempted second spray.

 

DSCN4353_zps37vbs3xk.jpg

 

The weird circular irregularities seem to have disappeared. I also like the subtle contrast between the upper surface EDSG that wraps around the leading edge and the lightened EDSG of the underside

 

The upper EDSG has gone on without any issues

 

DSCN4350_zpsbcb3ge2q.jpg

 

I have started picking out some details and did a spot of test weathering

 

DSCN4351_zpsacdldaym.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

G'day people,

 

I managed to get a little bench time in today. I have applied the top coat. After a basic application of straight EDSG, several lighter mixtures were applied over the upper surfaces in a squiggle pattern, followed by a highly diluted (90% thinner) dusting of straight EDSG again to blend everything together,

 

DSCN4372_zpshodhxplu.jpg

 

DSCN4375_zps4qsuyixx.jpg

 

I then unmasked the lower surfaces. I was trying to achieve a subtle contrast between the upper and lower surfaces as accounts from the conflict state that there was a discernible difference between the factory applied EDSG of the upper surfaces and the hastily applied EDSG that was painted directly over the gloss white lower surfaces en route to the Falklands.

 

DSCN4373_zpslldk9z9f.jpg

 

DSCN4374_zpsipsr2gh3.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

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The way you have captured the white from the original scheme underlying the hastily applied EDSG is extremely effective!

 

Martian

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22 hours ago, Martian Hale said:

The way you have captured the white from the original scheme underlying the hastily applied EDSG is extremely effective!

 

Martian

 

Cheers Martian!

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G'day people,

 

I have finally got around to doing a little more on my SHAR. The tail feathers have been mottled up to match the rest of the upper airframe.

They are only temporarily fitted in these pics

 

DSCN4391_zpsdyccxetw.jpg

 

DSCN4390_zps46wesxsv.jpg

 

DSCN4392_zpslz6d08p8.jpg

 

I also did a little weathering on the jugs, they are hard buggers to photograph, apologies for the crappy pics

 

DSCN4395_zpsyxu6wbhu.jpg

 

DSCN4396_zps9vmsoahe.jpg

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

 

 

Edited by Pappy
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