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MFH Gulf Porsche 917K 1/24th vs Fujimi Martini Porsche 917K


Borez

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Ahh, the joys of Christmas eve.

 

Got a few bits and pieces on the Fujimi done today.

 

Built a new lower frame for the front of the car with 1.1mm plasticard tube.

 

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It's a copy of the existing moulded in frame that I'll sand down to remove on the Fujimi kit:

 

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Also built the inside frame of the door, some pretty interesting bending and contouring going on here using plastic weld dripped from a syringe to get it to fix around the door.

 

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I'm pretty pleased with the result. I think with a bit of clean up,  sanding, primer and paint it's going to look decent. Need to add the hinges though, have to get my thinking cap on for that one.

 

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And that's it for today, off to watch a couple of films and eat food with the girl.

 

Have a great Christmas guys. :)

 

Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Borez
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Jeez borez I've only just seen this thread and you most definitely have yours hands full with these 2. Mfh are top notch for customer support and will help out any problems. Also the work of the fujimi kit so far is really great the door frame does look really great. 

 

Shaun 

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Nice start so far. Don't worry about the missing parts. MFH will bend over backwards to sort you out. You should just contact them directly. No need to go through the original supplier. Koyuko Hiro is the lady you need to email. She helped me with some 1/20 Toleman TG184 spare decals and rain tyres, so that I could build the Monaco version. Superb customer service from them.

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On 12/22/2016 at 0:49 PM, Borez said:

OK, so before I start sorting, ordering and cleaning all of the MFH parts I thought I'd do a quick comparison between the MFH and Fujimi body shells.

 

As you can see from the pics ( hopefully ) The Fujimi body is quite a bit wider than the MFH shell.

 

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The cockpit on the MFH is smaller in comparison and tapers in more. Just an overall narrower, sleeker design. I really didn't think there would be as much difference to be honest. Which one is more historically accurate I have no idea, I presume the MFH. 

 

 

Borez, thanks for posting these pictures! I can tell you who is right and wrong. Fujimi's 917 is some 4 mm too wide, as your pictures demonstrate. For a stand-alone model you can see that best in the windscreen, it's far too wide. I don't have the MFH 917K to measure (only a Langheck), but I think they got it right. I don't understand why everyone keeps building the Fujimi kit, with such gross errors. Even the old Heller kit is better in shape. I'm currently trying to build one of these.

 

Rob

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12 minutes ago, Rob de Bie said:

 

Borez, thanks for posting these pictures! I can tell you who is right and wrong. Fujimi's 917 is some 4 mm too wide, as your pictures demonstrate. For a stand-alone model you can see that best in the windscreen, it's far too wide. I don't have the MFH 917K to measure (only a Langheck), but I think they got it right. I don't understand why everyone keeps building the Fujimi kit, with such gross errors. Even the old Heller kit is better in shape. I'm currently trying to build one of these.

 

Rob

 

That's interesting Rob, thanks.

 

I will however continue to build the Fujimi kit though ( I've started so I'll finish and all that ) so we can see the difference once the two are complete.

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OK, so after de-greasing, soaking, scrubbing and cleaning the MFH engine pieces I'm finally ready for a first look and some drilling and test fitting before the Zero Etch primer goes on.

 

Lots of parts here. About one third of what's in the whole kit.

 

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Some lovely detail when you get down to macro level though

 

Gearbox

 

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Fuel injector module ( I'll be drilling out the holes for the lines on this )

 

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Some holes already drilled for spark plugs and cable retainers here

 

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I also decided to drill the tiny distributor cap holes to take the wires. 14 holes x 2 distributors at this scale had me questioning my sanity at one point, my hand was aching. Much more straight forward than drilling plastic though, no sign of any sidewalls splitting at all. I presume I'll have to re-drill once it's primed and painted but the initial work is done so that should be easy.

 

I'll have do this all again too with the Fujimi engine transkit distributors too.

 

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And then, of course, the damn drill bit snapped which has kinda ground the whole priming thing to a halt until I get a new bit ( I bought a few )

 

One thing I've noticed on the 1/24th version of this kit compared to the 1/12th is there is absolutely no provision for any kind of distributor plugs ( on the distributor or the engine block )  the instructions show the wires going straight to the top of the distributor so whether I paint the base of the wires black or look at dropping some heat shrink over the top of the wire ( or even a dab of painted Kristal Klear like I did on the 956  ) I've yet to decide. Shame really I thought there would be a set of plugs in this kit.

 

And then a test fit of the main engine block. No problems now after the initial frustration the other day, it all fits together nicely now I've done a little jigging, drilling and sanding.

 

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I intend to build the MFH and the Fujimi engine in parallel here too but the transkit is still in the post coming over from the US. Should be here in the next couple of weeks hopefully.

 

And that's it really for now, need some damn drill bits to get this bit up and running again.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Edited by Borez
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10 minutes ago, PC2012 said:

Hi Bored, what did you clean the engine parts with?

 

This is my first time using white metal parts so I soaked them in kitchen degreaser overnight ( can't remember the brand, I ran out, some spray on stuff the girl has/had ) then scrubbed them with a metal brush and washed them off. After that white vinegar and water solution for a few cycles in the Ultrasonic cleaner, then left them in fairy liquid for another day. I then cleaned them off under the tap whist scrubbing with a soft brush.  Then left to dry.

 

All of this way done at a lukewarm temperature. I can imagine this stuff goes fairly bendy with any degree of heat.

 

They seem pretty clean ( I mean they want to be with that lot. )  I think the etching primer should take fine.

 

 

As I said it's my first time with white metal, others may have a better way?

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OK, so today ( as I'm waiting for new drill bits ) I was having a closer look at the front frame of the MFH compared to the Fujimi
 

 

First a scan of the MFH assembly

 

Screen%20Shot%202016-12-28%20at%2018.14.

 

And then a test fit of what there is to work with on the Fujimi

 

 

 

IMG_3521.jpg

 

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The basis of the Fujimi kit is there, the sidewalls are not too bad, they'll need building up under the dashboard and across the top of the . The lower frame I've already built. 

suspension.

 

The two side frames and their connection to the triangular middle frame will also have to be scratch built

 

Screen%20Shot%202016-12-28%20at%2018.32.

 

The bottles ( I presume brake fluid reservoirs? ) will have to be made, the radiator on the Fujimi will be completely replaced, plus I'll have to make the two brake ducts and some of the extra detail.

 

But all in all it's not as bad as I first thought.

 

One thing that is becoming clear though is that I'm going to have build the frame as one piece for the front before I even think about painting it, and I presume the same deal for the rear too. That's going to require a little head scratching as the triangular section of the Fujimi is attached under the dashboard. But it's all doable really.

 

Anyway that it really for now. The rest of the MFH white metal parts are currently soaking ready to be cleaned too.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

 

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So these arrived today for the Fujimi

 

PE parts and Brake upgrades + new drill bits also came so I could get on with stuff.

 

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Also the missing PE parts arrived from MFH. Wasn't expecting them for couple of weeks yet so great service there.

 

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So I've basically been drilling out holes and sub assembling the gear box and engine:


Fuel injector module is now drilled as are both the distributors. Fuel lines seemingly go straight into the module here, non of the top connectors nuts that you get in the 1/12th kit. Might have to rectify that somehow, I have some tiny hex nuts that might do the job.

 

I also bought some 0.5mm ( inner diameter ) black heatshrink for the plug boots. Looking at it today though I think it's just going to be way too crowded on top of the distributors to actually use it ( or even shrink if for that matter. ) I'll look into that more though.

 

 

 

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And then just pre-assembling engine bits that are the same colour, kinda makes sense to do it now and prime and paint them assembled.

 

Gearbox

 

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Cam covers and main block. I'll be leaving the cylinder heads and some other parts unpainted as I kinda like the colour. Gear box will be Alclad 2 steel, main block I'm thinking Alclad 2 exhaust manifold ( I've used this before, it has that brown tinge I'm looking for on the block at this scale )

 

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All pretty much ready to be etch primed next week at some point.

 

Also finished cleaning the vast majority of the other parts. So many tiny bits here, I'm starting to realise why these kits cost as much as they do.

 

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All that's left is to clean the frame itself.

 

Still awaiting the Fujimi engine transkit so I can start that too.

 

And that's it for now. Have a fantastic New Year people, all the best.

 

It'll be 2017 once I return. :)

 

Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

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40 minutes ago, shood23 said:

Great progress borez, check this build out it may help with the fujimi car. 

 

http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/31/t/105217.aspx

 

Shaun

 

Thanks Shaun, I've actually read though that already. My original plan was to get hold of the MFH engine and put it in a Fujimi shell like this build does, but sadly MFH no longer sell the 1/24th engine on its own and getting hold of one seemed impossible. I did track one down on Scalemates but the guy wanted way too much money for it.

 

I will add that I love the techniques used on the scaleautomag build but I'm not a fan of some of the finishes.

Edited by Borez
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OK, bit of MFH engine priming today.

 

Parts all prepped and ready to go. Everything has been test fitted at this point because I'm learning with the white metal parts that if a round peg goes into a round hole then that hole has to be pretty much re-drilled again on this kit for a decent fit.

 

Not sure if that's the same with the 1/12th MFH kits ( maybe someone can enlighten me here ) but on this kit it's definitely the case.

 

( Warning: whinge alert!)

 

Also just how vague the manual is for this kit. Trying to work out where some parts go and also the orientation of said parts is not easy at all from the 3D exploded drawings included. I mean, I used to be a draftsman so drawings I can read no problem but when it's on the other side of an engine block and you're not actually shown the other side of the engine block then there's a lot of guesswork. Several times I've had to refer to pictures of the real engine to understand what's going on, especially with the cam covers.

 

Again I've seen WIP builds with the 1/12th kit and there's really nice exploded drawings of isolated sections to refer to whilst on this kit it's an overall exploded view taking in a lot of the parts at once.

 

Hope the frame is not as difficult to work out.

 

Anyway, I digress. ( and whinge :blink: )

 

Prepped parts:

 

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And then the primer. I used pre thinned Zero Paints 1K metal etch primer. Lovely stuff, blows out the airbrush like a dream, good coverage, no clogging and dries pretty fast. Only two passes as I didn't want this stuff drying in the airbrush at all.

 

Main engine block

 

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Gearbox

 

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Little bits

 

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One of the tiny distributors

 

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So yeah, all good so far.

 

Some painting next.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Borez
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2 minutes ago, Schwarz-Brot said:

There's a special beauty to primed parts. Am I the only one that feels that way? Crisp looking parts you have there.

 

I agree. Something ghostly about newly primed parts.

 

They almost look like a plastic kit now :) 

 

 

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