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Printscale Decals beware


PhantomBigStu

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Rant alert, but thinks its worth flagging up lest others fall into the waste of money Printscale decals are. I brought two sets to use on my phantom, stencils and unit markings, the stencils were very prone to folding, and even with a coat of varnish applied to the sheet, I lost a few causalities. However that was nothing compared to the unit markings, the tail codes folded in on themselves as soon as any attempt to move them is made, and now just stay curled up in a ball. Worst decals ever. Rant over, two sets of tail codes do this inc one coated with varnish, and no reason to think the other 7 in the sheet wouldn't suffer the same fate. So all in all 7.30 well spent NOT.....

 

A44CF36C-A680-4857-ACF8-FBE9DD30B04E_zps

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How on earth did they manage to fold up on themselves then?  Are they made out of decal film found at Roswell? :hmmm:  Genuinely interested BTW - not being too sarky :)

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2 hours ago, PhantomBigStu said:

1. soak in warm water for a couple of minutes

 

That's already too long.

Often, using a flat sponge on a plate of water is more than enough.

Put the decal on the sponge till the support is completely humid, then off the sponge, and wait till the decal is ready to slide.

Forgot: don't use your fingers, but a clean thin brush.

Edited by Antoine
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Similar to Antoine, I generally just dip my decals in room temperature water, then put 'em on the cutting mat while I wait for the water to creep through the paper and melt the adhesive.  Once they start to move, they're fair game.  Some decals will stay flat if you pull them off the backing paper and apply them, others will curl up almost immediately.  It's a risk with any unknown manufacturer, and I'd certainly avoid hot water, as you know what that does to adhesives that are water soluble.  In the time you've left it in, it's probably dissolved it all, and you'll have trouble getting the decal to stick even if it makes it to its intended location. :)

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A different perspective on Printscale decals. I just applied a set to my current build, a FJ-4 in 1/72, but I removed fairly soon after as they are clearly oversized. The font used is also variable, keeping to a supposed USN long Beach but with variations in lettering thickness and some even appeared stretched in the vertical plane. 

 

I have to to say they were prone to folding but as some have said it is just about technique. They are thin, though! I used some on a SU-22 a while ago and they were much the same.

 

Martin

 

 

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I have often wondered about the way thin decals fold on themselves. Is it possible that static electricity plays a part or tension put into the film by the printing process. I always just dip my decals but have still had thin ones fold themselves up into a ball without warning. Perhaps grounding yourself prior to working with them or heating and cooling them to release tension in the film might help.

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5 hours ago, Mike said:

How on earth did they manage to fold up on themselves then?  Are they made out of decal film found at Roswell? :hmmm:  Genuinely interested BTW - not being too sarky :)

 

May be, they are so thin, anyway dipped the unfolded set and removed them straight way, I barely tocued it with the brush to move it and this happenened, that pile was a D 

 

5859A1FA-C571-41B8-A66D-D9D6B242B165_zps

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Antoine is right - cut each one separately and wet them separately.  While the rest of the decals are waiting, the adhesive is being diluted by the remaining water, and the decal film will get softer & more pliable.  Try taking a single decal, dipping it in room temperature water, leaving it until it begins to move, and them place the paper next to the location you want it.  place a drop of water or decal fluid where you want the decal to end up, and deftly slide the decal off the paper and into place, quickly positioning it properly before removing any water.  With it in place, I use a cotton bud to roll over it to expunge the majority of the water and press it home, then a dot of decal softener, which is spread out and left for a bit, then removed with the cotton bud again.  Tamp it down into the panel lines & such, then leave it alone to dry :)

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Definitely... always treat a new brand with utmost suspicion until they've proved they're nice & leathery :)  Sometimes you can recover a folded up decal by putting it in a bath of water, and trying to unfold it with two pairs of tweezers under magnification.  It's a long shot, but sometimes can be done.  If you succeed, it's then best to apply them on a bed of Klear as they'll most likely have lost any of their original adhesive.

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Printscale are something of a 'name' around the usual forums for variable quality -particularly with older products (recent output appears much better).

 

It's a real pain when this happens; I only had it twice -both with elements from a kit sheet! The other parts of the sheets were fine. That is why my Argonauts' A-7E doesn't have the red cutlass blades on the tail...the red looked weird on a lo-viz bird anyway, so I fashioned replacements from pale grey. And I managed to save the black hilts, which didn't follow the red bits into an impenetrable self-tying knot -go figure that one! :blink:

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             hi Peoples ,

 

                                          I use  MICADOR  Art  Fixative available in Gloss ,Satin and Flat in an  "Extra Large Size " 450 gm Aerosol Cans $20.00 aud

                  also use it to seal my "Self Printed " Deeecalz.

 

                   The Product is Aussie made  " micador.com.au "   but....I expect there are Euro equivilents      :unsure:

 

                                                                                                         cheery "pre Christmas Modellin' " mumbas !

 

                                                                                                                                            Geoff

                                                                                                                                              F.T.G. 3156

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I bought a sheet for my P-38 this summer. Never again. They curled up immediately. What's more, they are out of scale. Compared to the original Monogram Decals, they were approx 1/4 oversize. I spoke to Hannants, who merely said they had sold 65 sheets. I know other modellers who have had similar problems. My money will be going elsewhere.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I too am disappointed with Printscale. Bought some P-51 decals andfound that the fuselage lettering is the wrong style and the tail serials too big. Poor basic research - and a complete waste of money. Avoid Printscale decals.

 

Justin

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just found this post and I have to say, I am starting to get the same issues with the latest Xtradecals, mainly with the pilots names on modern RAF aircraft. They are so small and hard to see on the light blue paper backing anyway (I've accidentally cut through a few when cutting out other decals) but Sometimes they won't slide off the edge of the paper and some have just wrapped the brush the instant they do leave the paper. 

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  • 1 year later...

Are  Printscale  colours any good, though?  Their RAF WWII insignia colours look very bright in pics of sheets I 've seen for sale. 

 

Re their thinness, given I can make Tally Ho! decals work, I reckon I can hack these.

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The other side of the coin is that in this very forum are builds that have used Printscale decals to good effect. I believe it was mainly their earlier ones were difficult to use, reprinted & later sheets seem much better.

Steve.

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58 minutes ago, stevehnz said:

The other side of the coin is that in this very forum are builds that have used Printscale decals to good effect. I believe it was mainly their earlier ones were difficult to use, reprinted & later sheets seem much better.

Steve.

Here's hoping, I'll be careful so hopefully they will be fine.

 

Duncan B

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