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Yesterday, I resprayed the doors. 
After a very light polish (no papers involved, just the Novus 3-2-1 polish sequence) I have this result:

 

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Digital eyes  show there is a hint of orange peel, but this is acceptable to my analog eyes.
 

On to number 2

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Digital eyes can be a PITA.  IMHO that's superb. 

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And the left door passes my reflection test. Just 2 tiny specks that I need to get rid of.

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Now on to the body. First of all, all appendages and then the gloss coats for the body. 
I’m also thinking about electrics (lights), because now is the time to add wiring for them.

No space for batteries, so I’ll need to find another method to power them.

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29 minutes ago, Pouln said:

No space for batteries, so I’ll need to find another method to power them.

You could make a base and hide the batteries in there

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I probably had a little more room in the Mercedes after cutting out the molded in seat and building a new floor and what I did for the electrical may not work for you but, I documented it all on my thread. Bottom line I wound up using a power supply that plugged into the bottom of the car and I hide the on/off switch inside the transmission and used the gear shift as the toggle. It’s all there in the thread along with what the nano and pico size LED’s. If you need the link to the build I can post it for you. 
The paint job on the door looks great!

 

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Just in case you’re interested here’s the topic listing for the Mercedes.

The lighting saga begins around the bottom of page 21. I hope that it will be of some small help and refresh your memory of all the different iterations I went through trying to figure out how to do my lights. Good luck!


Pocher Mercedes 540K True Roadster Build

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35 minutes ago, larchiefeng said:

Just in case you’re interested here’s the topic listing for the Mercedes.

The lighting saga begins around the bottom of page 21. I hope that it will be of some small help and refresh your memory of all the different iterations I went through trying to figure out how to do my lights. Good luck!


Pocher Mercedes 540K True Roadster Build

Thanks, Wayne. I remember what you did from your report back then. 
I’ll reread it though.

 

I am thinking about a different approach though. One that does only need wires to the base and no wires at all from base to the model. If it is feasible, I will post here what I have done exactly.

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Yeah you could probably put a plug on the bottom of the car with a corresponding plug in the base. I was going to do that and, it would probably have been a much cleaner installation. The only reason why I didn’t was because the model went into a big display case as opposed to its own case. I really wish that I had good place to display it by itself but I don’t. Unfortunately this is the only problem with Pocher models, they are huge and finding display case room is sometimes a problem. Good luck and let me know if I can help 

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Yes, they are big. I am actually thinking about a wireless solution. I’ll let you know if I need help. Thanks for the offer, Wayne.

6 hours ago, Andy J said:

Nice work mate looks great well done 👏 

Thanks Andy. Much appreciated.

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4 hours ago, JeroenS said:

You could make a base and hide the batteries in there

Thanks, Jeroen. That’s one option, but I don’t think that I will go for batteries.

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I’m curious about how you are going to do a wireless power solution. I have all low power SMD LED’s in the Mercedes and I think that I would probably like to convert to a wireless solution. The way I have it set up in the display case is a little inconvenient to turn them on and, It would be a lot easier to enjoy looking at the Mercedes at night with the lights on by using a remote. 
I do heartily recommend the LED’s that I used though. They are super small and they can go anywhere. I managed to get them inside the tail light stalks and the front marker lights as well as light up the dashboard gauges. So, they are the perfect solution for the application. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do!

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I’ll have to do some testing, but will explain in due time. (Building up tension here).😜

I haven’t seen anybody trying this method, so it might be a new idea. 
A few years ago, I ordered the smallest of the smallest leds I could get, so I think I’m good.

If not I’ll revert and ask for details of yours.

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I’m pretty sure that I covered the LED’s in the thread. I got them from a model train supplier. I think that they use them in HO scale train layouts. I know that they also have remotes but, you need an IR sensor somewhere on the model wired into the light circuit. However, it still needs a power source. 

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One of the items on my list for this model was a frame for the front and rear window. The actual car had a front window that could be opened. The pictures Chas showed in his Rolls thread of the same model built by David Cox many years ago showed this feature. Since then I have been juggling with this idea in my head.

 

Anyway first try of both frames in the pictures below.

The rear frame is not the best. I have to solder it and see if it is usable. 
The front frame is not perfect, but usable. Certainly if the window is opened it will pass. 

I also fabricated a trim that will nicely fit/hide the edges of the roofing material.

 

 

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Poul, if the rear one is just flat sheet that's fine. Lay it on scrap plywood or soldering white board and fill the kerfs (corner cuts) with silver solder. File and polish to flawless finish for chrome. Try a local jeweler.

If it's channel like the front w'screen the key it to make either plywood or aluminum fillers for the corners, so solder does not fill them impeding the clear glass. If you have to remake any of these try to make the kerfs thinner and fewer. Be sure to anneal the channel first. Ideal channel size is 5/32 square. Here's David's:

DSCN1354.jpg

Note the filler in corner to keep channel clear:
DSCN9054.jpg

Here's mine just back from chrome plating:

498-pasted-Graphic.png

 

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Thanks for your tips, Chas.
Rear frame is channel too, but I plan to redo it not using channel.

size that I have is the metric version that we worked out earlier, comparable to what you wrote in your roller thread.
Btw, I used the thinnest blad I had to make the cuts. Apparently, I need to find thinner blades. Are you aware of sources for the thinnest blades?

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45 minutes ago, Pouln said:

Btw, I used the thinnest blad I had to make the cuts. Apparently, I need to find thinner blades. Are you aware of sources for the thinnest blades?

I used my Dremel cutting discs that are decades old and very fragile. I'm sure Cox has very old stuff too.

You can also try a Xuron type sprue cutter on a bit of scrap if you anneal it well.

It's been about 5 years now since I did that particular work...

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4 hours ago, Pouln said:

Btw, I used the thinnest blad I had to make the cuts. Apparently, I need to find thinner blades. Are you aware of sources for the thinnest blades?

Try a jewellers supplier . The thinnest fretsaw blades (8/0) are 0.16mm thick

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10 hours ago, Jo NZ said:

 

Try a jewellers supplier . The thinnest fretsaw blades (8/0) are 0.16mm thick

Thanks, Jo. Will do that.

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2 hours ago, PROPELLER said:

Poul take a look at:

https://nl.niqua-shop.de/collections/01-juweliersageblatter

It's my supplier...

 

Dan.

Ah, they have a nice selection. I will order some from them.

The dremel cutting discs that I have do not lead to better/finer results than I had before.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the next update. I have been working on a new surround for the rear window.

Made it from PS, painted to give a smooth underlayer and then a layer of Molotow chrome. 
Pretty smooth and shining, I think. I also added a small bit of black alu foil, which should represent the window rubber.


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Currently I am working on the front window frame. Pictures will come later.

 

Another thing I have been working on was designing the radiator ready for 3d printing.

It is not for this model, but on my list is a build of a highly detailed Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 chassis. For that I need a much better represented radiator.

I started in SHapr3D and actually was able to finish it, although I planned to bring it over to Fusion and finish it there.

Here follow the design pictures

 

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side view, you can see the water pipes inside the rad. You can also see the brackets for the bypass at the top and right side of the rad.

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frontside

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I finally fired up my printer and here is the resulting rad. For comparison I show it next to the Pocher part.


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As I modelled the pipes inside the rad, it has been a struggle to get all uncured resin out of it. I ended up with using a syringe to spray Resinaway through each of the rectangular holes front and back, but I think all is removed now.

 

That’s it for today. Questions and comments are welcome.
 

 

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