Basilisk Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 The Stuka was mainly flush riveted with the exception of some underwing sections. That is what I read and pictures confirm this. 2 minutes ago, Ray_W said: Wow Bob that reply was quick! Flush rivets will give me some work though. These days I like subtle riveting and was thinking seriously of redoing the rivet representation on my dual build Airifx and Italeri. if they were raised heads then I would not touch them but, flush …. 🤔 .... that dual wheel Rosie the Riveter will do a nice job on those dual rivet bands across the Stuka wings. Fill, sand, undercoat, rivet, lightly sand ... tempting. How do you deal with the rivets implemented by Airfix? They will stand out compared to the rivets done with a riveting tool. Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 I have to fill them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 3 minutes ago, Basilisk said: The Stuka was mainly flush riveted with the exception of some underwing sections. That is what I read and pictures confirm this. How do you deal with the rivets implemented by Airfix? They will stand out compared to the rivets done with a riveting tool. Cheers, Peter Hi Peter, Sorry I hit reply before I was finished. Filling them and getting a flush, hard but not too hard base is the challenge as you would know. Also not slipping into the previous riveting. Go to fillers would be in this order Mr Surfacer 500, Mr Dissolved Putty, or Milliput smeared and wiped off. I like to rivet into an undercoat so the pressure needed is not so ridiculous. I think it unlikely I will fill the panel lines. It does sound like an experiment coming up. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 2 minutes ago, Ray_W said: It does sound like an experiment coming up. It certainly does! Some considerations. Riveting is easier before the parts are assembled and the Airfix plastic is relatively soft. Mr Surfacer 500 and Mr Dissolved Putty don't dry very hard, making it difficult to rivet over them. Milliput is harder when dry but will be very messy. I got good results using a CA/talcum powder mix. Cheers, Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks Peter. When it's time I'll give it a go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 9 hours ago, Ray_W said: Flush rivets will give me some work though. Fill, sand, undercoat, rivet, lightly sand ... tempting. The old problem with flush rivets, usually they cannot be seen under a coat of paint, most companies represent countersunk rivets as holes or indentations, in real life they are flush, if the rivet head goes below the surface of the metal it's makes a weak joint. But this is modelling and a smooth airframe looks boring so rivet away, I like the effect that Eduard have achieved with their latest kits, but I am filling most of the fastener divots that Meng have put on the surface of their F-102. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 9 hours ago, Basilisk said: Mr Surfacer 500 and Mr Dissolved Putty don't dry very hard, making it difficult to rivet over them. Milliput is harder when dry but will be very messy. I got good results using a CA/talcum powder mix. I have dissolved some sprue in liquid glue, drops of this stuff on each rivet "hole" once it's hardened means that you are working on plastic not filler. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Retired Bob said: The old problem with flush rivets, usually they cannot be seen under a coat of paint, most companies represent countersunk rivets as holes or indentations, in real life they are flush, if the rivet head goes below the surface of the metal it's makes a weak joint. But this is modelling and a smooth airframe looks boring so rivet away, I like the effect that Eduard have achieved with their latest kits, but I am filling most of the fastener divots that Meng have put on the surface of their F-102. You are certainly correct in your statement. But countersunk rivets can be visible under certain light condition and as you say they make the surface more interesting. Like with many things in life, some love them and some hate them. 2 hours ago, Retired Bob said: I have dissolved some sprue in liquid glue, drops of this stuff on each rivet "hole" once it's hardened means that you are working on plastic not filler. Great idea. I may give this a shot as the working time will be longer than CA I assume. Cheers, Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retired Bob Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 12 minutes ago, Basilisk said: You are certainly correct in your statement. But countersunk rivets can be visible under certain light condition and as you say they make the surface more interesting. Like with many things in life, some love them and some hate them. Agreed Peter, but some companies really overdo the effect to the point of looking as if the rivets are missing, and then some people will put a black wash to enhance that effect, their model, their choice of course. But not my cup of tea. 20 minutes ago, Basilisk said: Great idea. I may give this a shot as the working time will be longer than CA I assume. Depends on the liquid glue, but yes the working time is longer and it will also take longer to harden, but if you are re-scribing something it is better than filler as it's the same material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 The fun/problem with a dual build from different manufacturers are the comparisons. In my Stuka build the different 1/48 rivet treatment from Italeri on the left and Airfix on the right got me thinking. I could build it as is and end up with a nice representation or do something about the depth and variation and different treatment from both manufacturers. I do like the subtle rivet effects now achieved by Eduard and believe it does adds something (a personal opinion) and doing it yourself is relatively easy. A full refill, re-scribe and rivet is a different story and might be beyond the time available in this group build, for me anyway. Hence the reason I value the input on filling methods to get that more appropriate Stuka skin. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Indeed a real shame that Airfix did rivet the Stuka the way they did. Not only are they too overwhelming in appearance, but at some places they blend into the panel lines as well The benefit of the Hasgawa Stukas is that they are "rivet free" and therefore much easier to add your own rivets. At the end it is your call how to deal with this. Cheers, Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevej60 Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Hi folks in an effort to put right the Heller kit fail I'm eyeing a later boxing of the Airfix Stuka I've just finished it has a nice Italian scheme different to rather dull scheme in that boxing fingers crossed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevej60 Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 Yep. Got it on that auction site £4.99 Same as previous kit so see you later in the GB with it need to crack on with my Nordic GB Heller builds. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Poultney Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) Still haven't had any luck finding an Airfix 1/72 Stuka kit... I'm looking for the R2 box because that desert scheme is nice. Tempted just to buy the larger and more expensive 1/48 kit but 1/72 is my favourite scale Edited February 3, 2020 by Adam Poultney 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) Hi Guys, I thought someone might be able to assist. When did Germany stop producing the Ju-87 R-2? My reason for the question is Germany supplied Bulgaria with their R-2's in the last half of 1943. There is no werk-nummer for the aircraft that I have been able to dig up to indicate build period or factory. In any respect, my guess, and expected interior finish, will be for late production or reconditioned aircraft with an RLM 66 interior rather than RLM 02 coming much after the colour changeover. I also wondered with later builds of the R-2, if there was such a thing, whether they started using the later series seat D and G squared off seat with improved pilot armour plating and easier construction - if so, my guess a result of war/production experience - or just kept using the same seat. Peter @Basilisk in his STGB of "Major Walter Sigel's R2" posted the following nice pics. The R-2 flight manual shows the one on the left that is typical of the Berta. The one on the right is more like the later series Dora's and Gustav's. Any thoughts? Failing any better information I will go with the RLM 66 and the early seat. On 1/20/2020 at 11:02 PM, Basilisk said: Edited February 4, 2020 by Ray_W typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 Production of the Dora commenced in March 1942 and the first 84 Dora airframes had the cockpit in RLM 02. After that it was RLM 66. This information is from the Wikipedia page and an article on Luftwaffe cockpit colours for which I can't find the link (I did save it but can't find that either ). So not sure how accurate this information is. The supplied R-2s are definitely second hand airframes. In regards to the seat, your guess is as good as any as everything can be possible. Cheers, Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vppelt68 Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 I finally received my Zvezda Stuka yesterday. Just gotta Finnish a Do 17 first and then it´s time to tackle this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattG Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 Hi all, I'm a bit late joining in, but have an Airfix 1/48 Stuka and aftermarket goodies on order. I'm planning on starting off the first of a number of Battle of Britain builds with this one. I just have to get a Coastal Command Fortress off my workbench first, but I should have that done within a couple of weeks. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vppelt68 Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) My Stuka build will begin as soon as the Do 17 is finished. V-P Edited February 18, 2020 by Basilisk Removed shameless plug as inappropriate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Russell Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Eight different models available in 1/32 scale! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted February 19, 2020 Author Share Posted February 19, 2020 5 hours ago, Ed Russell said: Eight different models available in 1/32 scale! Nope - these are in 1/33 scale and you need a scissor to cut them out Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Russell Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 Nope - they are card models. Scissor(s) not recommended. If you can pick the difference between 1/32 and 1/33, you have better eyes than 99% of the population. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 37 minutes ago, Ed Russell said: Nope - they are card models. Scissor(s) not recommended. If you can pick the difference between 1/32 and 1/33, you have better eyes than 99% of the population. Ed, I obviously can't. I've been impressed by what I thought was a 1/32 HK Models Flying Fortress hanging from the ceiling in one corner of a LHS here in Bulgaria. Only last weekend did I have a closer look. 1/33 paper!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 Just curious if anyone can help me before I make some grave error. It was my understanding that Stuka wheel wells(if thats what theyre called) or landing gear had the bottoms painted in the regular colours and the RLM 65 was not applied to the undersides. My colour callouts show that they are painted but I have not been able to determine through photos of stukas of any colour variation that would be seen easily. Am I wrong in my assumption or am I just missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 @Beazer The most famous photo of the Stuka appears to be a lighter colour on the underside of the rear of the wheel spats. Whether they kept up that practice for the duration of the war I do not know. Certainly from the above and side it is difficult to see any variation because it just seems to be the lower rear surface only. Also with mud I am sure this lighter colour soon disappeared. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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