Hasegawa 1/72 M-1E1 Abrams

[Tomathee]

This is my 'dipping toes in the water' first armour build, bought as a trial although I'm fairly well decided it's what I want to do not solely, but in majority to aircraft, as my last few purchases and magazine reads have swayed towards this area. Dioramas appeal and once I've a few builds under my belt I want to give that a go. As a tester I thought smaller scale might be better but after going with that idea for my first aircraft I kind of regret not just going for the 'regular' 1/35 from the beginning. Picked up for £3 from ebay and hoping to knock through it quickly and move on to something to really get into. There's 54 parts and it's single colour, no clear parts, not much masking needed, so hopefully less things for me to trip up on. Have had a few evenings on it already which I'll update once I get the pics sorted, also switched over to using flickr so apologies for issues with the images.

 

From the box/instructions - The E1 was the prototype to replace the 105mm cannon with a 120mm gun. Entered mass production in 1985 as the M-1A1 for US Marines & US Army.

 

 

Yes that is a Beatties label! Don't know if plastic goes brittle over time but I've definitely noticed a change in cutting bits off the sprues compared to the other two I recently built.

 

Sprue shots & decals. Could have done with one of the instructions perhaps, 9 steps plus paint and decals. Will post the actual work so far in a day or two.

 

Thanks for reading, didn't see any of these underway or completed but if anyone has any comments that would be appreciated.

[Tomathee]

Brief update as I've not had much worth writing about so far and I'm mostly wanting to get this done and out the way. For the sake of a couple of quid I should have just gone straight in with a normal (1/35) scale model instead of a 'practice run' with this. 

 

Not had any real problems with the building of it so far, the bottom was made up of four parts, most of the wheels come as one piece attachments which are on, the turret is done apart from a couple of details and the frame around the back, and the figure is mostly complete. I had to use some filler on the figure where the arms attached, and where the turret halves joined, although it might not have been necessary. The main gun had a separate smaller part at the end which I had a go at drilling out, it seemed to go well so I also tried to go smaller and do the machine gun and the smoke launchers which were a bit more hit and miss. This bought me to the main painting stage, which I'm disliking more with each build. I've got a couple of things to try next time but as with my first build I'm not bothered enough about the final outcome of this to go as far as stripping back and starting fresh, so it is what it is. Primed with AK black primer thinned 50/50, quick sand with 2000 grit, then on with a few thinned dark green coats, rubbing with an old tshirt in between. Once the wheels had dried I did flat black around the outsides.

 

Turret - gap around edge after assembly that I probably didn't need to waste time on filling...

IMG_20161126_223116756 by Tom Noble, on Flickr

IMG_20161205_225747251 by Tom Noble, on Flickr

 

Lower hull, I did some experimenting on the inside to try and improve my painting, with different primers and thinners, coats etc

IMG_20161121_213419177_BURST000_COVER_TOP by Tom Noble, on Flickr

 

Main gun tip that I managed to drill out successfully

IMG_20161123_212727325 by Tom Noble, on Flickr

 

Three main parts after painting

IMG_20170109_210440435 by Tom Noble, on Flickr

 

Wheels, did dark green all over, then black around the outsides before touching up the insides with green after. The figure was primed and helmet painted dark green at that stage.

IMG_20170120_221153888 by Tom Noble, on Flickr

 

Next I'm finishing off the tracks, I've primed them black and gone over with rubber tyres. The instructions say steel on the rest so first I've tried painting it on and going over the raised parts which should be back with a cotton bud. If that doesn't work I did a coat of matt varnish after the rubber tyres paint so I'll try sanding gently to take the steel off. Also the figure to finish and try to make some attempt and looking decent.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

Why treat this any differently to a 1/35 kit.....All the techniques you will use on the bigger models apply equally here. 

 

What paints are you using BTW.....Tamiya acrylics applied with a brush by any chance? 

[Tomathee]

6 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said:

Why treat this any differently to a 1/35 kit.....All the techniques you will use on the bigger models apply equally here. 

 

What paints are you using BTW.....Tamiya acrylics applied with a brush by any chance? 

 

Cheers, I guess I was thinking more along the lines of several years down the line at my pace when I have a few complete next to each other and this is half the size of everything else, but saying that I have a couple of 1/48 armour kits as well, also have ebay impulse buying to thank for that. 

 

The paints are all brushed acrylic, bit of a mish mash though as I'm trying to avoid unnecessary spending in general (saving for a house), and the hobby specifically (rather build up the cash for an airbrush once the former is sorted). Off the top of my head it's a Humbrol dark green and matt black from a starter kit, AK interactive Rubber Tires for the track pads (next update), no Tamiya yet although I've been told their Metallic Grey is near enough to steel.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

The reason I enquired about Tamiya is they are notoriously tricky to brush.....Might I suggest investing in an acrylic flow enhancer and adding a drop to your mixes (W&N do a good one as do Tamiya), you'll find the paint flows a lot more smoothly and you'll get a much neater finish. 

 

When working in Braille scale it's generally deemed wise to lighten colours to take account of 'scale-effect', I lighten Olive Drab with Sand Yellow and/or Buff (depending on how faded I want it to look), mixing about 6-7 parts Olive Drab to 3-4 parts of the paler colours.  This allows a little wiggle room as things will soon start to get darker as you apply washes and filters etc.

 

Hope this doesn't seem too much like a lecture, it's all stuff I learned the hard way over the last couple of decades since I rejoined the hobby.   

[Bullbasket]

37 minutes ago, Sgt.Squarehead said:

The reason I enquired about Tamiya is they are notoriously tricky to brush

Sorry if this is hijacking this thread, but I agree with what Sgt. says about brush painting Tamiya acrylics. They spray great, but not so good with the hairy stick. One thing that I've found with them is that it's fatal to go back over them when they are just beginning to dry, which they do almost immediately, as the second coat tends to lift the first. So therefore, I spray with Tamiya and any brush work I use Vallejo.

 

John.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

I think that applies to a greater or lesser extent with all 'hot' acrylics.....Even Humbrol & Revell's nominally water-based acrylics seem to sort of 'emulsify' if you work them too much with the brush, this is greatly reduced by using a flow enhancer in your mix. 

 

I use Tamiya's 'Paint Retarder (Acrylic)':

 

 

As Stix wisely said elsewhere, using acrylics straight from the pot is right out. 

[Bullbasket]

I'm returning to Blighty in a couple of weeks, so I'll pick up some enhancer. Thanks Sgt.

John.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

I keep meaning to pick up a bottle of the Windsor & Newton version, which I understand to be extremely good (their matt-coats are awesome).....The Tamiya product makes a huge difference when used with their own paints, it reduces the difficulty of brushpainting from 'Nightmarish' to merely 'Tricky'. 

[Tomathee]

Thanks for all the input, good discussion points. I have some flow improver, Daler Rowney? That I usually add in a few ml to a pot when I open it, as long as I remember. So far with the tamiya paints I've used they've been more for detail than large area where it would show up more, but I've heard before that they're bad for brushing on so I've avoided them if there's another option. I did the tracks last night and it looks passable for them being what they are, being beat up and probably some attempted weathering later on. I think the main colour painting looks rough more from my preparation than the paint - think I used to low grit and maybe not enough thinner etc. Debating the suggestion about another coat to lighten it up a bit or pushing on and adding it to my notes for next time.

 

[combat]

Tomathee

great start in the AFV department.  Following on from the advice given by other members about painting I would encourage you to invest in a good compressor and airbrush if you can afford (even a decent used unit).  Don't be afraid to try different scales either.  There are amazing kits here and there.  I have a weakness for the old Matchbox / Revell in 1/76. 

My second bit of advice would be read and reread and readagain this book - The modellers guide superdetailing painting and weathering by Aleksandar Pocuc.  It lays down all the basics and advanced techniques that form a perfect base and his impressive skill is such a motivation !  All the best with the rest of the build.

[Tomathee]

On 02/02/2017 at 7:17 AM, combat said:

Tomathee

great start in the AFV department.  Following on from the advice given by other members about painting I would encourage you to invest in a good compressor and airbrush if you can afford (even a decent used unit).  Don't be afraid to try different scales either.  There are amazing kits here and there.  I have a weakness for the old Matchbox / Revell in 1/76. 

My second bit of advice would be read and reread and readagain this book - The modellers guide superdetailing painting and weathering by Aleksandar Pocuc.  It lays down all the basics and advanced techniques that form a perfect base and his impressive skill is such a motivation !  All the best with the rest of the build.

 

Cheers, airbrush and compressor is top of my list once we have a house sorted in the near future. Currently have nowhere suitable to use one (dining table) or store it (away from an inquisitive two year old). I'll add the book to the list of those to look out for, it's growing quicker than I can buy and read them though.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

Have a look at a portable spray-booth with decent lighting.....You can buy them or find plans online, a mate made mine for me.  

 

While it seems like an extra expense and inconvenience, you (and your partner) will be glad you invested in it.....Your work will be better (you can take photos in there too) and her house will smell less like IG Farben. 

[combat]

Doing the best you can with what you have and upgrade when you can. 

[Bullbasket]

If you are interested in a compressor, I have a Morris and Ingram if you're interested, but I will need to know by tomorrow as I'm off to Blighty Tuesday and I could bring it back with me. £25.

 

John.

[Tomathee]

Long overdue for an update, things began moving re. selling our flat so I decided after this was complete I'd not start another one until the dust has settled wherever we end up. So it's been stretched out longer than I'd planned to keep my hand in the hobby, but hey it's finished now (or I'm calling it finished). Meanwhile the flat has sold and we have an offer accepted on a house (including mental note of new stash location and small permanent work area in the spare bedroom so hopefully an airbrush is one step closer), so the future is bright.

 

Winding back to February I got on with the tracks. The instructions say Tire(?) black for the pads and steel for the rest, the only way I could see around trying to paint steel into the intricate details was to prime it all in black, then do the in my case rubber black over it all, then a layer of matt varnish to hopefully protect it, followed by, again substituting in metallic grey all over. I then did a gloss coat for the benefit of the steel that was to remain, and gently sanded the track pads back to the underlying rubber black. Don't know if this was a good idea, or the best idea but it seemed to turn out ok. Not sure what would happen if for example the areas to sand back weren't flat or sat lower or same level as those to leave but I'll cross that bridge later.

 

Next was getting the wheels on, fairly straight forward as the main set came in single pieces with the front and rear separates. Then it was the tracks which were an absolute nightmare, they needed wrapping around the wheels and the instructions suggested cutting part way through to make bending them easier. This did not work, no matter how far I cut they simply wouldn't bend far enough to wrap around and several times ended up either cutting too deep or bending too hard and breaking them.

 

 

Eventually they were stuck in sections of one or two links, once broken there was no hope of gluing them back together. I also gave up on using the top run, it's covered anyway but wouldn't fit right once I begun fitting the top of the body.

 

 

After that frustration there wasn't a lot left to do, the top half of the body went on easily enough.

 

As did the side skirts 

 

In between all that I finished the figure as per the instructions. I've never liked painting figures (well faces mostly) and I don't think I ever will come to like it but they add a lot in my opinion.

 

The turret dropped into place which brings me to the end of the photos I have so far. I've since glossed it, added the decals, matt varnish and put on the final details such as machine guns.

 

 

Don't think I've missed out much but most of this was at least 2 months ago now. Will do a final update next time I get the camera out and close this off. Then it's just magazines and youtube to satisfy my modelling for a short time.

 

Thanks for reading

[Tomathee]

On with the final post, I'm not going to bother with a separate thread of the Ready for Inspection forum as there's not really anything to comment on and I'm a bit 'meh' about the final result. I'm regretting snapping up the several kits I went after on ebay when I started out 18 or so months ago. They were bought as cheap testers to pick up skills etc and based a bit more on price rather than what I wanted to build. Yes I could leave them be but the realist in me is trying to keep to a limited stash (granted it's grown from 8 max to 10 max to now 12 max) and clearing them allows me to buy something else guilt free. I could also get rid but given how cheap they were to begin with it's not worth the hassle, and I hate throwing anything away unless it's broken beyond repair. So I will get through them, my medium term plan is that by the time we've moved and the dust has settled and I get one more built I'll have sorted out an airbrush so I'll have a couple of duds to practice on as I know that will take some getting used to.

 

One of the habits I've gotten into is making notes as I go, patchy this time but hopefully will improve in future. Useful for me as I started this back in November, so a lot has been forgotten. One thing that I noticed and forgot to include the other day was getting the tracks round the sprocket wheels. Apart from the issues I detailed I found that the inside edge wasn't raised to the same level as the outside edge with the teeth. So I had to wrap a thin strip of plasticard around the wheel on the inside edge so that the tracks would sit flat. Another minor thing was trying a wash on the figure with I believe 90% thinner to 10% flat black paint, then a 10% buff wash over it, seemed to work out quite well.

 

Back on track following the last update there's very little to add, one of the decals somehow slipped away from where I put it that I missed or moved on from keeping my eye on too early before it dried. It came out a bit darker than actual in a lot of the pictures, to be honest I can't remember if I added a drop of white to the main coats to lighten it up as recommended in several sources to avoid it looking like a dark block with no distinguishing features, I think I did but maybe a bit more was needed.

 

I'll end with some final photos, did quite like the name they'd given it, any photography tips welcome along with the model itself.

 

Only just noticed the black spot at the end of his nose :/

 

So there it is, I'll put it away in a tupperware for now to keep the dust off and the either get it out at a later date if I have some sort of display shelf/cabinet, or if I use it for a diorama. It was an ok build apart from the tracks which were awful bending them around the wheels. I still have work to do on my brush painting which I'm a little disappointed with. I'm not sure that I've grasped the different times when sanding may be required and to what extent, and I suspect I'm still brushing a little heavy, need to just leave it rather than going over areas again straight away. I definitely plan on doing another M1 in future and I keep seeing the nice ones from the likes of Rye Field models but it's a long way off in wanting to get the skills and experience to do a job worthy of the price tag and complexity of it. Next up for me is most likely a 1:144 F18 that hopefully I'll start work on in a few months from a proper desk in the new house. Between now and then I have a book and several magazines to read through, along with the endless youtube and forum browsing to keep me occupied, there's also the Steam summer sale just started so even more games to stock up on and not play, sound familiar?