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1/16 Trumpeter Panzer 4 ausf F2


Pegguins
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Hi guys,

 

This is going to be the first in probably a very long set of updates over the next god knows how long. After getting back into the hobby as an adult last year I've finally got myself up to where I want to take on a big project, until now the most difficult model I've built was MENGs terminator, which was more work than difficult. I wanted a challange, something to sink my teeth into over a long time and boy did I get it. After looking around for an internal detail kit for a quite a while I finally settled on the 1/16th panzer 4. I went for the ausf f2 variant, personally I dont really like the way the sideskirts look, and based off how they attach thought it could have been a real pain to sort out any minor warping, plus the colour scheme of the f2 is naturally a desert yellow, which is probably my preferred pattern. The kit comes, in a flipping gigantic box;

 

fxAmrLH.jpg

 

and, just to ram it home, there is absolutely no space spared inside there;

 

gMFdIQn.jpg

 

I cant help but feel its slightly optimistic of trumpeter to include a catalog of kits in here, but i suppose the stash gods exist for a reason. The kit is absolutely beautiful, going over all the sprues I'm blown away at the detail they've fitted into every inch of this kit. From the (slightly daunting) amount of wonderfully molded ammo to the masses of PE;

 

s2LKHRD.jpg

(this is less than half of it, those packets are double sided and theres more. In total the PE alone probably weighs about 500g).

 

It really doesnt hit you just what you've gotten into until you actually look at it next to some other tanks;

 

FuhrtUV.jpg

Both of those are 35th scale, although chosen to slightly mess with the perspective. Currently my livingroom is literally overflowing with sprues;

 

Zwq69UB.jpg

 

This is about half the total sprues, most of the rest are still in the boxes you can see top right but whats not layed out is ammo, track parts and other similar pieces that I wont be needing right now. Thus far I've completed the engine;

 

jFQcv2C.jpgNU8DJ7f.jpg

 

Although I'm not happy with the little vent things at the back, theres some putty work to be done on that joint (or maybe not, looking at where those pieces go they pretty much go flush against a wall so you'll never see them. I'll have to think about it), and started on the transmission;

t9pgb5L.jpg

This is probably the first PE bent piece I've ever been happy with. There are 2 (actually 3) things worrying me so far about the kit. 1) The PE bending, its not something I'm particularly good with but since most of the PE parts here are substantially bigger and tougher than the stuff you get on 1/35 or 1/350 I think its a great learning opportunity, 2) Figuring out exactly what order to paint everything (more on this later), and 3) figuring out what to paint things. The instructions are a little unclear on colours on the engine for instance. It gives some colour callouts for some pieces, but not an overall colour and theres no colour guide for the internal pieces at the back of the (50 page) instruction booklet which is disappointing. I think that  the base colour of the engine should be the red/brown iron oxide primer colour based off their instructions but that doesnt seem right to me. Weathering the internal parts is also going to be a challange, I want a used not destroyed look, but frankly I have no idea what techiques to be using on an engine, hairspray chipping doesnt seem particularly right, so maybe just painting it as a new engine and giving it a nice black oil wash+various engine stains, diesel stains sort of products would work. The paint is something to think about too, the instructions default to mr hobby, but I've never used their stuff and its a little difficult to get over here. I tend to use tamiya or vallejo paint, but given large parts of the inside are an off white colour and I've had big issues spraying both their whites I might look elsewhere. I think AK interactive have a set of german interior paints? Thats really stuffI'm open to suggestions on. 

 

So yea, this kit is going to take me months, but so far its been really nicely fitting,  nicely made parts, the instructions are very clear, aside from paint callouts, Plan so far is to leave the top of the hull off. I'm thinking I might display it like andys hobby headquaters did his tiger. Put the upper frontal plate on, leave that huge piece of the upper hull in picture 4 off, then have the turret either in that part of the hull or off and next to it, thats something to decide a very, very long way down the line though.

 

Thanks for the read,

Mike

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It is incredible how great looks, and a challenge, not if would be able to make one of these.
Perhaps you should see the Pz IV is finished Grenlim56 partner, or companion Kingtiger Matt182, which are 1/16 and you can see the engine and interior.

Cheers mate :popcorn:

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4 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

It is incredible how great looks, and a challenge, not if would be able to make one of these.
Perhaps you should see the Pz IV is finished Grenlim56 partner, or companion Kingtiger Matt182, which are 1/16 and you can see the engine and interior.

Cheers mate :popcorn:

 

Yep, I'm going to be taking quite a bit of inspiration from them on the interior weathering especially. I'm sure I saw an AK interactive st of paints for interior colours with the off white, transmission green, red primer etc in there, but I cant seem to find it now. Strange.

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Thus far, I have built, primed and shadow coated the engine front back, electric generator side front (i think, its not labelled as such, but given how it looks and where it goes it seems to be what it is) and transmission back front. These pieces are seriously huge, with plenty of nooks and crannies to make getting a nice smooth airbrush coat a real pain. As seems to be the case with this kit, the pieces are beautiful, construction notes are super clear and it all goes together very well, you can see where I had a bit of a problem with the PE on the generator (where the fly wheel is), that piece starts like a butterfly and gets the wings bent in, then the head and tail wrapped around. I was using a new extra thin CA glue, it ran through the gaps stuck my fingers to the piece and ended up with a gluey fingerprinty mess. A bit of careful knife work to cut the excess off then some filing got it to how it is now, which is ok, but i could definitely have done better there.

Work has started on the ammo storage inside the hull, there are 3 boxes built using some moderately fiddly PE bending but nothing too bad. Put together they look like this, again the top piece I was trying a new method to bend pieces, mastered it on the second and third but the first is a little wonky. Luckily, thats not too much of an issue, as you can see there are these doors that go on the front of this box in the instructions, there is no option to not put them in, but it does seem really strange to place all the ammo inside if its completely closed off. I've searched around the sprues and cant seem to find a part that would be for those doors opened, but I want to be able to look into atleast one of them, perhaps simply leaving the parts H44 and K28 off would be valid? I'll have to do a bit of research there. Side note here, see that block infront of the ammo locker labelled <<B-B>> does anyone have any idea what it is? The piece isn't given a name, nor a colour callout. I've been trying to find it, in my head a piece of equipment like that should probably be painted in black or grey, but the lack of a colour makes it seem like the off white interior colour might be what they say?

While we're on the topic of ammo, the ammo in this kit is honestly one of the things I'm most excited for, the detail on the endcaps is beautiful (ignore the grubby finger prints and terrible camera, its absolutely georgous) and put together the shells come up pretty snazzy. When placed inside the ammo storage they look like this, a full rack of those would look badass I think, which is why I want to leave them open. The instructions call for all of the same type of shell to be loaded into those bins, it looks like an AP shell to me, would 36 of those have been carried inside the hull? Or would it have been a mix of AP and HE (with more HE than AP) which would be my assumption?

Finally, we're back to the one flaw with this kit, the colour callouts are awful. On the engine, it looks like the box with 3 tubes attached to it on one side should be in red oxide primer, the 2 pontoon looking (fuel storage?) boxes ontop should be flat black, and no colour is given for the rest of the engine, but I assume just a natural steel colour is probably right there. Absolutely no colour instructions are given for the generator, the transmission is to be painted in medium gunship grey but other colour sets I've seen have a really bright green for the transmission of german vehicles. The pipe work on the transmission is labelled as off white (interior colour), but the pipes on the engine aren't given any call out, I would assume they'd have the same colour, but I'm not sure. And no colour is given for the inside of the ammo bins, research makes it look like that'll either be redoxide primer or a flat black, i prefer red oxide though with the outside being off white. More research to be done here I guess.

Thats as far as I've gotten s ofar. The floor of the hull is being started soon, and the rest of the shells/ammo bins are going to be done over the week.

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5 hours ago, Gremlin56 said:

Very nice Mike, take your time and don't rush this beast. It's great fun to build ;)

 

Agreed, its absolutely beautiful. Did you have any trouble getting ammo into the storage bins? Mine dont seem to want to sit flat while I've been dry fitting them.

 

have you been using any specific places for referencing colours on the inside of the tank?

Edited by Pegguins
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22 hours ago, Pegguins said:

 

Agreed, its absolutely beautiful. Did you have any trouble getting ammo into the storage bins? Mine dont seem to want to sit flat while I've been dry fitting them.

 

have you been using any specific places for referencing colours on the inside of the tank?

 

No, no problems at all fitting the ammo into the bins, check the photos on line.

Interior photos as reference?  Color photos are a :worms: that you open at your own peril. DP, (that's David Parkins and not, well, never mind), has a very nice nice Facebook page with lots of information on building PzKpfw IV's. Go in open minded and keep your wallet closed.

There are amazingly few photos of IV interiors. I didn't really get too excited and did a guesstimate that pleased me. For the people who are intimate with rivets this is a bigger problem. Your move  Mike :boxing:

 

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/920071714702418/

 

cheers,

Julian

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2 hours ago, Gremlin56 said:

 

No, no problems at all fitting the ammo into the bins, check the photos on line.

Interior photos as reference?  Color photos are a :worms: that you open at your own peril. DP, (that's David Parkins and not, well, never mind), has a very nice nice Facebook page with lots of information on building PzKpfw IV's. Go in open minded and keep your wallet closed.

There are amazingly few photos of IV interiors. I didn't really get too excited and did a guesstimate that pleased me. For the people who are intimate with rivets this is a bigger problem. Your move  Mike :boxing:

 

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/920071714702418/

 

cheers,

Julian

Cheers,

 

Personally I'm looking for more of a "its pretty much about right and looks good" approach, but I still want to get about the right sort of thing going. Also inspiration for the weathering, general grime and streaking isn't something I've ever gotten particularly well, so lots of practice to do there. Thanks for the link, I'll definitely check it out once I'm approved. Its just for a check to make sure that I'm interpereting the very vauge colour callouts about right. 

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Slowly working towards where I need to start painting. I got myself a PE bending tool, and jesus it makes such a difference. I've decided that for the 3 standing bins the 2 I already put together will have the doors shut, and the one I did with the tool (which is much smoother, shells all sit very nicely etc) will be open and at the back. I've picked out my engine colours and I'm currently trying to get the right internal colours. I had a go at mixing up an internal off white colour but its just not quite right. Its still too white and not enough ivory;

 

P7IOslV.jpg

 

Also, given how many coats it needed to cover the black primer, I think I'll look more into a premixed colour, just so I can get more if needed later on down the line. Probably the AK interactive or MIG cremeweiss, leaning more towards the AK one. I'm mixing up what I'll use for the red-oxide primer. Its currently a mix of tamiya red brown, red and a little touch of yellow.

3YgH6BK.jpg

 

This was just slapped a spare bit of styrene on with a brush, including thump print from checking if it was dried. I think its still looking a little much like red brown, maybe it needs a bit more yellow or even some white adding to it? Finally, I'm also working on painting up the ammo to go in the open ammo rack.

 

zFhupPu.jpg

 

This is not dried yet, its just tamiya copper which I find tried alot flatter than it looks wet. The caps are painted in grey, white with a red strip, then I've got to add the decals and then I'll pop some black wash on the rings and text detail on the caps. The angle is making the caps look a little off center which is funny because they actually arent. 

 

Still to do; figure out what products to use for internal grime. Oil, mud and grease all over the floor and the streaking grime to go on the walls on the inside. For chipping I'll probably do it with white/black paint and maybe a very small amount of sponging. Experiments to do there.

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Oh I absolutely am going to practice it all first. I just havent heard of using a sponge for doing internal grime to be honest, only using it for doing chipping. Some research to do there.

 

 I'll have to get myself some of that AK true metal copper. It does look pretty great and I have plenty of spare shells of that type since 2 of the bins are shut so even if its not to my liking I can use the shells I've made today. 

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Its been a bit of a slow week on the panzer 4 front. Construction has pretty much slowed down until I get pieces painted up. I've spent a long time fiddling with different colours, mixes, researching what goes where and such. So, in some form of order lets start with the ammo.

I made 2 sets of ammo, the first set I wasnt particularly happy with, the masking was a bit iffy, the red band didnt cover the paint below it very well. I made a second set up and used some new goodies in the ak interactive true-metal colour. All told, building a single shell looks like this; Cut off sprue, clean up+file down (quite a pain), cut out and file down the metal end cap then glue on. Once its dried spray with primer, once thats dried tape up the front of the shell and spray flat red, once thats dried tape up the head, but over the other side of the red band and spray dark grey, once thats tried tape up the head alone and spray copper, once thats dried brush the ak interactive true metal on, once thats dried polish it, once thats dried gloss coat the tail end of the shell, (so I can stand it up by t he pointy end without damaging the paint), when thats dried take the masking tape off and gloss coat the pointy end, once thats dried pop some oil wash on the recessed band and end cap, once thats dried clean it up. Its alot of work, and mostly a lot of tiny job, wait for paint to dry to mask, tiny job work.

The shells come out looking like this; body, pre-cleaned end cap. After cleaning the end caps they just look like black text. These are all still gloss coated, I think they'll really come out when I pop the final matt coat over and the metal goes a bit duller. The AK truemetal looks great but I need a lot more experiments with it, the coat isn't very smooth at all and I definitely couldn't just cover over a black primer like they suggest. Instead I have it over the top of a tamiya copper to have it smooth out the colour. Once I've figured it out though I think it'll look absolutely beautiful. For now I am really happy with these shells though.

Obviously they need some cases to go into which look like this when painted. I tried to mix my own off white and it just ended up looking a little too white. This has just a hint of yellow in it that I couldn't replicate (its one of the ammo by MIG acryllic colours). Theres no gloss coat or oil on this yet. On the rack thats open I'm going to paint the interior the red oxide primer colour I have lined up. Painting these is actually a real pain, this is after about 5 coats (turns out white over black primer is hard) so painting the floor/walls could be interesting.

Moving on to the electricity generator its painted a wonderfully disgusting bright green 1 2. The brown stuff along the metal support struts is a rust texture, I'm experimenting a little here to see how it'll look with the red oxide over the top, especially since those parts really arent seen much (underneath a radiator when finished).

Research indicated that the transmission and engine should be painted atleast partially in a dark grey colour. I couldn't find any recommendations for a specific shade so I took the vallejo 'engine grey' for both, it seems to match pretty well. The transmission was painted, gloss coated and pin washed to look like this and this. There werent colour callouts for the handles, various buttons and such to be red/black but I think it adds a nice little bit of detail to the piece. There are some decals to go inside the rings on the white control pannel but I'm going to leave those until after I've figured out what to do about the main problem. Somehow a piece of the transmission got twisted, even though there is literally only 1 way that those 2 bits can go together. If you look here you can see where the 2 teeth are (on the top of the hollow part)? Those are supposed to be level with the two little 'wing' parts on the left. As is if I dry fit it either the entire part sits on a funny angle, or I have a pretty big gap on 1 side of the attachment of the transmission. Now, as it looks the side with the gap gets mostly hidden by a huge ammo box I've yet to make, so I think I can mostly just deal with it and have a slightly wonky pipe. A little frustrating but it happens I guess.

Onto the engine, I painted it up with atleast somewhat historical colours? Everyone seems to say the parts are one of about 10 colours depending on who you ask. Its reasonable enough for me, but that probably wouldnt appease some of the more historically minded. Ah well. The two sides of the engine are looking like this currently. Obviously still just gloss coated. I havent put any oil on the engine yet, I'll do it once I've decided if I want to dry brush some silver on the big toothed wheel.

Thats about all the progress I've made since last time. Still to do on the inside; Build and paint the drivers chair, build and paint the breaks (once of them is half build, its a huge job there are so many little pieces on them), build and paint the large ammo storage that sits behind the driver, and make the shells to go inside. Paint the big parts of the inside structure (its a huge paint job, but actually not hard), weather it all (this is the big one) and fit it all together On the topic of weathering, I'm going to have to get some spare sprue to practice on.  I'm really not sure of the best way to get the grime on the walls, muck all over the floors and really chipping/wear on pieces like the transmission I'm a little in the dark about.

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No more pics for now, been mostly doing the long process of painting the huge internal piece in the redoxide/offwhite/black. Primed it, coated it all in redoxide, masked up and I'm on the white parts now. I'm getting quite a bit of grainyness in the paint though, which is a bit odd. I'm using MIG-017 cremeweiss but I havent had this issue with any other paint (nor with this paint when I sprayed the ammo cabinets). I think the paint is drying in the air, leading to an unsmooth finish but I'm not entirely sure why. I'm currently thinning it about 4 parts thinner to 3 parts paint (with tamiya thinner), tried spraying on various pressures (my default is 20 PSI but I tried a range from 10 to 30, same effect). I'm using a gravity fed brush, badger 100. Could it be that the layer of paint I'm putting on is too thin? Many things to try to fix this.

 

On the weathering front, I have a cheapy old school tamiya panther arriving some time this week aswell as some flat sheets of styrine that I'll be painting to test out the weathering techniques on. I'm especially interested in the oil techniques I havent used before, but they look fantastic. Rendering/dot matrix and using oil paints for chunky paint chips as well as testing various wash colours to try bring out, dull down and grime up various parts. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its been a real slow set of progress with this kit recently. Ill, then generally a week or two of being lazy and playing video games left me not getting too far. I had some pain when it came to painting. The cremeweiss was frosting/grainy going on some surfaces. Ended up having to sand it back down, changed thinner from tanmiya xf-20a to mr colour levelling and it fixed basically everything.

First thing I did was give the red-oxide primer an all over wash (really probably more of a filter) of very dark brown to dull the colour down a bit, after that it was a pin wash across most of the surface. I made the wash from raw umber and a little bit of lamp black. The surfaces are really standing out nicely on the front;

http://i.imgur.com/dxjnD1G.jpg

but on the back something weird happened, the wash has shown up a whitey-grey colour.

http://i.imgur.com/uHmQ2bh.jpg

No idea why, I went over it with just a lamp black wash and this is the result, Thinking I'll just strip it down and try again, any suggestions as to why this happened?

I havent figured out what to do with the white floor or battery yet, they're still in clean condition, I'm thinking I'll treat the white floor in the same way as I will the rest of it, but maybe going all over with the same colour wash I used on the back white plate could be nice?

http://i.imgur.com/ebQLbr1.jpg

After that its onto testing streaking grime. Various tests got my technique start to work and I had a go at one of the closed up ammo storage boxes.

http://i.imgur.com/mSRenX5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kIYMBdj.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/Dlt8ubH.jpg

The individual streaks are showing up a little more on camera than they do to the eye for some reason, but I'm generally happy. Its just streaked with burnt umber, I did try adding a small amount of extra colours in (a little dot of raw umber and lamp black ehre and there) but it didnt go particularly well so I cleaned it off.

Obviously next step is to add the streaking grime to the firewall at the back, given they're both oil paints though I assume I'll need to put an extra coat of gloss over the pin wash so my streaking doesnt wipe it away.

Moving on to testing scratching methods. I had a go at using oil paints (testing with burnt umber and lamp block here; http://i.imgur.com/TATwGNm.jpg) but I dont seem to be able to get it to look quite right. I'll be testing a little extra.

Finally moving onto the grease/grime build up on engine and other related items, I've figured that I'm going to try the technique used in weathering magazine, I hadn't thought to hairspray chip before. My components are painted in their colours, rather than base metal so I'm going to have to use my spare piece of styrine to test that, but as first tries I have some nice results;

http://i.imgur.com/556vMZ5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OjGN9nu.jpg

Along with some failures as you can see. I think the fail is where the hairspray wasn't properly dry or the acryllic over the top not dry. The two colours are engine grime (the greyish one) and streaking grime (the greeny one), I thinned them a bit and put them through my airbrush to get a nice coat. They do say to hand brush (when i tried to use them in poast I never thought much of them tbh) and airbrushing they really dont like it (clogged my airbrush up in about 5 mins) but I think with some retardant it'll be fine. I'm thinking I'll use both, but the streaking grime can go on the floor as a thinly sprayed base coat before I put some earthy pigments over it, and engine grime can go all over the engine compartment, engine itself, electric generator, drive shaft and maybe transmission (I'm not sure on this one, the transmission sits in the front of the tank next to the driver, it probably shouldn't be too dirty, but then it would look weird if it were in pristine condition). I want to find some way to do sutty grime aswell, to put over the top of the general engine grime on the vents and walls and such near the equipment.

So basically; need to test my chipping a little more. Need to figure out how to make the break system/transmission look. Need to figure out exactly what to do to the floor. After that I can actually get stuff done and its just a matter of finishing off the two break systems, building the final ammo crate (I stores 24 shells, not sure I'll actually make all 24 of them?) then put all the guts inside and we're nearly done with this part of the build.

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First pass of weathering on the white parts of the insides are done now;

 

I particularly like the way the white floor turned out;

 

J0dYML7.jpg

 

ni68ris.jpg

 

Got the shell cabinates done, they dont quite match eachother, but I dont think thats a bad thing when they're in place. If anything the more random is nicer to me, might well need a little more work though

 

Lh8QGzb.jpg

 

And finally I've been testing things out on/trying to formulate a plan for the back of the fire wall painted in redoxide 

ceBqG60.jpg

Nothing I've tried looks quite right. Thinking I might just give it an all over random raw umber wash, then cover it with engine grime/sut effects. 

 

Next on the block is the floor. In the fighting compartment I'm going to do some hairspray technique together with vallejo streaking grime (looks a little like a heavier/darker raw umber) and a small amount of engine grime near where the breaks/transmission go. Weather it down with the toothbrush, then pop some muddy pigments over the top in various places. I'm probably going to use russian/heavy mud colours and make the tank a russian front rather than african front one. Also not sure quite how messy to make the transmission. I'm going to really gunk the engine/generator up, but with the transmission inside the fighting compartment its probably not going to be that grimey.

Edited by Pegguins
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Nice progress Pegguins, more attractive to read with the photos on the site instead of being linked. I wouldn't get too bothered about the weathering of the engine compartment, when engine, APU, radiator and fans are fitted you won't see much of the compartment anyway :)

Keep the pics coming, enjoying this

Julian

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Thanks for the kind word Julian. I did see that when looking ahead in the instructions but I was hoping that I'd be able to put them in "free standing" as it where, so the radiators could be lifted up to look at the stuff underneath as I plan on displaying the tank with the upper part of the hull separate from bottom, so that you can see all the goodies inside (I would do the trick of cutting into the hull in a nice pattern, but I dont trust myself on that front!) so I'm going to weather the back up anyway. 

 

I had a go at a first layer of grime in the back though

 

Vmp2sjZ.jpg

 

I'm reasonable happy with the wall, pretty happy with the floor close to the wall, and relatively unhappy with the floor closer to the camera (I wanted to try adding something to look a b it like oil spills so darkened the wash and thickened it up a bit in that area). This is just the first coat of things though, theres engine grime to go over the top, then prbably some fuel spills effects I have laying around, and maybe some sut on top, so I think it'll all blend in quite nicely when its done. Looking at the the way the dirt effect has gone down closer to the wall though, I might use that through the floor in the fighting cabin, then just put some mud effects and small bits of oil/grime near where the transmission and break pads go.

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Fighting compartment of the 1/16 pz4 is starting to come together now. Got the 3 ammo cases for the back finished up how I like them and glued in place, the back walls and central floor area is pretty much how I want it, I'm still working on the bottom part of the floor but thats nearly ready too.

Theres still some oil drying on the floor which is why it looks shiny and a bit weird, when it dries it'll deposit an extra layer of muck in a bit of a random way that should help break everything up a bit.

7qY91AH.jpg

wObBo6r.jpg

7t4BoLm.jpg

The back is.. well its ok, but I cant say I'm overly happy back here, theres still quite a bit of work to do but I'm going to use some acryllic products (engine grime and such) to add over the top of whats here. Luckily when the back plate+engine+generator are in place you really wont see it much and if i put the radiators in over the top you barely see it at all (although, I'm still deciding if its possible to put them in, but not glued down so you can lift them up to look into the back? Experiments to be done there).

 

0bIs5HN.jpg

 

Also getting onto constructing the final pieces to go into the fighting compartment, the big ammo bin that goes behind the drivers chair, drivers chair and two break systems.

h5YaU0m.jpg

Painting the ammo case is going to be a royal pain in the butt.

Right now I'm really thinking about adding chipping or not, I think maybe some very light chipping on handles, the front of the raised area, and the blast doors at the back/ammo box doors, but really only very little, theres already quite a bit going on and I tend to not like chipping effects much. I'm also thinking about whether to use some pigments on the floor, some russian earth (decided i feel more like painting it in eastern front rather than desert colours) sorts of things. It might just add a bit of extra texture, but it might be totally unneeded too.

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Final update until after the holidays from me. I didnt manage to get as much done as I was hoping, I've done the first layer of weathering on the engine, generator and transmission. Got the two break pads together, primed and painted the drivers+codrivers chairs (well, the metal parts of them),  primed both break pads, primed the drive shaft, primed+painted the last ammo bin in the fighting compartment and put together the various little detail pieces (medical boxes etc) that go around the inside.

 

First layer of weathering on the 3 pieces I mentioned is sort of done. I used oils to try add a greasy grimy nasty build up (going for less battered, more used and poorly cleaned sort of look you see on some mid-late war tanks in the russian front). I'm ok with the transmission, its mostly done using two shades of raw umber.

 

bc2MzVr.jpg

SLQKCEx.jpg

The front is still a bit shiny for a reason I'm not too sure of but a final matt coat of varnish should sort that out. The engine was done pretty much the same but I'm much less happy with it;

 

HSn3z8W.jpg

The red parts I actually quite like the contrast of, but the dark grey just doesnt seem to show up how I want. I tried adding extra, adding less, etc but it just hasn't come together for me yet;

 

jKgO8Vt.jpg

WuD2yY1.jpg

 

Towards the bottom it starts to look a bit better, but it feels like that much would be weird on the top of this piece. Finally I did the electric generator that I think has come out very nicely, I'm really pretty happy with this piece;

 

PefURn1.jpg

GuqUadI.jpg

 

Its exactly the same paint used exactly the same way as the others, but it just comes up much better against the light green. I'm not sure what to do about that, maybe use a lighter shade on the engine? At any rate, I think my family might have got some weather goodies/products for christmas for me (i put a few in a wishlist as an idea of a present for people) so maybe there'll be something there. At the moment I think that the engine needs a layer ontop of extra grime/sut/something. The  electric generator can stay as is (with a little bit of dust pigments and very gentle sut pigments being added onto flat surfaces maybe), and the transmission probably like the engine but lighter and only towards the bottom of the piece.

 

Bonus picture, I really love the way these brake pads look when primed up

 

ffEs9uE.jpg

Not entirely sure what colour to paint them. I suspect that they're probably supposed to be red oxide, with the tubes cremeweiss, but I'm tempted to paint them in that green the electric generator is so the weathering shows up nicely on them.

 

 

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On 12/23/2016 at 5:01 AM, Gremlin56 said:

Coming along nicely, I had the same problem with the engine: getting it to look the way I wanted ;)

 

Yep, I got home just the other day from the usual holiday trips around family homes and finally the oils had dried. Top looks like the right hand side here;

 

CyAK4ZZ.jpg

 

Which i think is ok as a base, but is just a b it flat. You can see in the center, and the box on the left there I've started to use some MIG products to bring it out a bit. They arent entirely dry yet, which is what the shinyness is about, but I think they're starting to look nice.

 

y6d3DM4.jpg

 

iLXnRvL.jpg

 

I'm going to go back and put a little bit of extra blending on it to get rid of those liquid edges but I think that its pretty much how I want, I might put just another layer of the brown oily over the top just to get the engine a bit heavier than the transmission. After that, just a couple of pigments (a very light dust and very very small amount of dark earth on the floor throughout) and I think I'll be ready to pop the internals together.

 

The instructions tell me to put the floor down, then the suspension/(torsion bars?) in which seems like an odd order.

 

 

Edited by Pegguins
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Thanks Kev.

 

Its mostly just a slow process at the moment practicing/learning/stripping and repeating weathering techniques to get it to where I'm happy. Once I've got that down I think the rest of the internals will go pretty quickly (Well, aside from putting together and painting 24 shells for the other ammo bin, thats going to take forever no matter what I do!)

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