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Airfix P-40B Tomahawk 1/48th - It's Arrived!!!!!


Jon Kunac-Tabinor

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3 minutes ago, Jon Kunac-Tabinor said:

Hi Jerry - yes they seem to be. very glossy and clear, and i would say commendably thin.

 

There are two windscreen options - one with an offset to starboard top rear view mirror for the AVG versions, and another with what appears to be a small rectangular inset moulded inside on the front - some sort of reflector sighting lens perhaps?  The internal armoured glass is a separate part.

 

For those wondering on the colours: For the AVG version - Airfix quote Humbrol No28 Matt camouflage grey for the lower colour, bracketing a reference "(approx. DuPont 71-21)", while topside disruptive colours are cited as Humbrol 116 Matt US dark green and 119 Matt US Light Earth, again both referenced as approx DuPont 71-013 & 009 respectively.

 

For George Welch's crate, neutral grey is specified as Humbrol 128 US Compass grey (sic) with a ref to approx ANA 43 Neutral Gray, while 155 Matt Olive drab serves for the tob, erm...Olive Drab BUT theres no reference cited with this colour. 

 

US ARMY titling on undersides of wings is printed in the correct blue, rather than black, colour; and you can argue the toss over the colour of the  AVG Chinese sunburst cockardes.

 

The colour behind the quarterlights on each version is shown as being the upper surface colour - just in case anyone wondered :)

 

Jonners

 

 

 

 

 

No hairline cold shuts in the clear parts then? That's good to know as Airfix have struggled here and I'm always concerned every time I open a new Airfix kit.

Edited by Tbolt
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On 10/27/2016 at 18:54, BS_w said:

the shape of keel fairing is a continu curve(blue). On airfix, this is two straight lines ended by a curve(red).
blue prints of keel fairings, forward, intermediate and aft of P40B & C
pic wing P40B

 

 

Unfortunately I hav'nt the oil cooler exit.

 

I'll wait til I have the kit in hand but maybe some plasticard and putty to dampen the disruption between the front and middle part should make the thing less obvious.

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I put this post on Hyperscale because as we talk of tweeks and fixes on this kit I want people to understand .. this kit does have thing to fix....But.... I can honestly ask this question 

===============================================================================

 

Is Airfix or Hasegawa the Best 1/48 P-40 now in the market? 

Truth is.. looking at the photo with the new plastic and tighter tooling the Airfix kit looks very much like a Hasegawa kit.. 

And Yes Airfix's P-40 and Hasegawa P-40 are way different versions... but as any version P-40 go..... 

The Airfix might just be the best 1/48 any version P-40 .. 

The cockpit is better that for sure.. and then what you need to tweek / fix on Airfix vs Hasegawa silly inserts that are a pain 

then the price point..Airfix vs Hasegawa?.....Airfix wins that 

Airfix might just be the new best 1/48 any version P-40 

And that not saying it has nothing to fix.. it does..it has some really silly errors.... but so does the Hasegawa kit 

So look at is as if the Airfix or Hasegawa were the same version 1/48 P-40?.. which on would you chose..even if then were the same price 

The Airfix and Hasegawa P-40 kits look to very much complement each other 
 

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3 hours ago, Raven Morpheus said:

Looks good, should be getting mine soon, Airfix apparently had a problem taking payment 2 days early...

 

Do we get a wheels up option?

Yes..it has the following options

 

Wheels up or down

 

US roundback seat or export squareback seat(UK, ChinaAVG, USSR)..

 

[Save that squarback seat for other UK versions of US aircraft..( early v1710 Mustangs, Buffalos,  Harvards)]

 

US wind screen with on glass Gun Sight reflector or export wind screen with rearview mirror(UK, ChinaAVG, USSR)

 

Close and open canopies 

 

Short and long blast tube fuslage guns

 

Normal radio hatch all model or RAF photo recon mod with photo hatch and camera

 

"Clean" belly P40B or droptank and droptank mount for belly P40C

 

Note it has rear fule tank to be seen via open rear bulkhead but that opening should filled with flat sheet plastic in opening because on real aircraft its normally filled with armor plate "hatch" bolted in bulkhead opening 

 

 

 

Edited by HBBates
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Interesting discussion, to say the least!

 

Regarding the underside fairing that runs from the rear of the coolant radiator exit flaps to the trailing edge of the wing, it sure does appear that Airfix missed the shape quite a bit- strange error to make, especially when there  are several P-40 variants, including P-40C's, P-40E's, P-40F's, P-40K's, and P-40M/N's available on the continent. IIRC, the shape and contours of the fairing was basically the same on all variants.

 

I found a website that has excellent drawings and references for P-40B through N details, which I have attached a link to below. I hope it will be useful. If you Google P-40 undersides, you can see some  photos of the underside of different P-40 variants that show that the fairing does make a gradual taper from the front to the back, not a kink; there is even one that shows P-40's stacked vertically at a surplus/disposal site with one in the foreground that has  the sheet metal covering over the fairing removed that clearly shows the shape. Hopefully one of the resin aftermarket firms will make a replacement that can correct the one in the Airfix kit, which is pretty good. Not my scale, but I'm happy for all you  1/48 modelers!

Mike

 

http://www.p40warhawk.com/Models/Technical/Technical.htm

Edited by 72modeler
inserted missing word for clarity
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1 hour ago, 72modeler said:

Interesting discussion, to say the least!

 

Regarding the underside fairing that runs from the rear of the coolant radiator exit flaps to the trailing edge of the wing, it sure does appear that Airfix missed the shape quite a bit- strange error to make, especially when there  are several P-40 variants, including P-40C's, P-40E's, P-40F's, P-40K's, and P-40M/N's available on the continent. IIRC, the shape and contours of the fairing was basically the same on all variants.

 

I found a website that has excellent drawings and references for P-40B through N details, which I have attached a link to below. I hope it will be useful. If you Google P-40 undersides, you can see some  photos of the underside of different P-40 variants that show that the fairing does make a gradual taper from the front to the back, not a kink; there is even one that shows P-40's stacked vertically at a surplus/disposal site with one in the foreground that has  the sheet metal covering over the fairing removed that clearly shows the shape. Hopefully one of the resin aftermarket firms will make a replacement that can correct the one in the Airfix kit, which pretty good. Not my scale, but I'm happy for all you  1/48 modelers!

Mike

 

http://www.p40warhawk.com/Models/Technical/Technical.htm

The fairing is not really that off  in my opinion ...the blueprint drawings tend to exaggerated the curve that comes from a straight tapered tube being on the bottom of an airfoil curve.....fyi the modeller that posted those blueprints is my buddy...we been swaping info on the h75,P-36 and h81,h87, P40 for years. he's a brilliant French modeller and an outstanding expert on the subject so we're already communicating on the backside about this....

 

(remember blueprints are not intended as a perfect drawing of the shape.like a scale drawing...it a guide to make a part for a machinist..and it the measurements ..the numbers on the blueprint thats what matters.. they real part builder does not lay the part on the blueprint..like modlers do a scale dawing)

 

Take any 3d tube and cut a curve airfoild notch in the side..then look at it from the top in a 2d drawing and it will look like it has curved sides.

 

As for the Warhawk site be careful some of the drawings they have ..and they have limited number of actual blueprint drawings and those are all later P40 and and measurements are  unreadable

 

I do have the full dvd of late P40 blueprunt that's commercially available and measurements are readable

 

And I also have the Curtiss "m roll" of P36 early P40 drawing in digital format

 

I had the micro film digitized by the UCLA microfilm preservation lab lin LA..so the clearest copy around...

 

I got the microfilm from one the main rebuilder of P36 early P40...

 

The m roll is very rare and not commercially available

 

I digitizer the m roll for Airfix at their request and got it to them 2 years ago for this project

Edited by HBBates
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This is for Mr. Bates,

 

You have mentioned a couple of time now that there some tweaks that may be done to this new Airfix kit.  I may well have missed that information, but I cannot recall having seen it either here or on HyperScale.  I am very interested in learning more about this kit, and I know you are one of the Boffins where the early P-40's are concerned.  Would you mind sharing your recommendations, or pointing me to a place where they have been posted?  Thank you for all the work you have put into the P-40, and thanks too for sharing your knowledge!

 

Cheers, Jim

Edited by Jim Kiker
Grammar.
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1 hour ago, Jim Kiker said:

This is for Mr. Bates,

 

You have mentioned a couple of time now that there some tweaks that may be done to this new Airfix kit.  I may well have missed that information, but I cannot recall having seen it either here or on HyperScale.  I am very interested in learning more about this kit, and I know you are one of the Boffins where the early P-40's are concerned.  Would you mind sharing your recommendations, or pointing me to a place where they have been posted?  Thank you for all the work you have put into the P-40, and thanks too for sharing your knowledge!

 

Cheers, Jim

 

There's some info in the Rumourmonger forum.

 

Edited by Tbolt
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1 hour ago, Jim Kiker said:

This is for Mr. Bates,

 

You have mentioned a couple of time now that there some tweaks that may be done to this new Airfix kit.  I may well have missed that information, but I cannot recall having seen it either here or on HyperScale.  I am very interested in learning more about this kit, and I know you are one of the Boffins where the early P-40's are concerned.  Would you mind sharing your recommendations, or pointing me to a place where they have been posted?  Thank you for all the work you have put into the P-40, and thanks too for sharing your knowledge!

 

Cheers, Jim

Well let me get the kit first to go over...

 

Im just seeing obvious things that need to be fix/that are incorrect    but that the simple thing seen error....

 

The hard part is saying what to do on the kit to make it right..

 

example.. the firewall not having the step at the gun-bay... so in the photo its clear it not there...

 

But what the fix?

 

Rescribe the lower firewall line back?.. or rescribe the gun-bay forward? or a little of both?..or is in missing because the fuselage is short at firewall or the cowl is short and it need an plastic shim.. and were is the wing in relation to this all and the other detail  

 

Now im 99% sure looking at photo it just a simple rescribe the gun-bay forward... but I will need to kit in hand to been sure that is just the simple fix

 

 

 

 

 

   

Edited by HBBates
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First look review at http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=12667

Many ejector pin marks, some minor flash and looking at the pictures, I see a moulding problem with the rudder pedals.

Nothing some sanding and Mr Surfacer can't overcome and it looks sufficiently  like a Tomahawk for me to buy two.

 

Edited by PattheCat
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Just got mine the morning and overall it looks pretty good, but I've have just a few comments on the molding of the kit and took a few quick photos.

 

The main parts of the mold have been nicely polished, though there are other parts that are unpolished and a little rough. As the Aeroscale review that PatteCat linked to mentioned the ejector pin marks in the middle of the wheel wells is strange, I'm sure the mold could have been designed so there was enough outside of the well to push it out of the mold, after all they do it with clear parts all the time. Also my rudder has the sink mark on the left hand side which will have to be addressed.

 

The fasteners that run a long the engine access panel on the right hand side are fine, but on the left side, the top line has merged into the panel line. I'll probably end up filling these anyway and using a beading tool to replace them.

 

The cooling holes on the gun barrel are very finely done and the cockpit is very well detailed.

 

On the left hand rear quarter light I've got a cold shut running back from the aft cutout, which I hope will not be too noticeable on the finished model.

 

The raised rivets on the turtle deck are very fine, nothing like the Hasegawa P-40, unfortunately on the right side only the top ones show up and the other haven't come out, which is a shame as they will not be easy to replace. Might need some of those decal rivets.

 

So I feel somethings have improved from the previous molding company and some thing have taken a small step backwards, though I'm sure the improvements will come. Should build into a great kit and I'm looking forward to the B-17.

 

CB5CDFB6FE6E4866AE2B6D9DE0AB316D.jpg

 

5A5F0572D2D443B6BC06B6D5A16ACA2B.jpg

 

422BD958757C4E85B90BCCC5D92D485F.jpg

 

7D5FC63AC09241FE90D955C1C6F0101B.jpg

 

5415D76E56D54C03A0A0D65F6A0BAB9B.jpg

 

 

 

F400CBCF5FB3431492555E71DF967A54.jpg

 

D66E735538DC4F18BAAD74570F98BCCC.jpg

 

AC873F9EE4474506A3B97112A9DCE2A9.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tbolt
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That ejector pin in the wheel well is very retro, 60s style, right down to not being polished. I wonder why they put it there in the first place, when they could've used a cut away exterior tab (like Monogram has/had been using for forty years) ?

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2 minutes ago, tempestfan said:

That ejector pin in the wheel well is very retro, 60s style, right down to not being polished. I wonder why they put it there in the first place, when they could've used a cut away exterior tab (like Monogram has/had been using for forty years) ?

 

Exactly, as I mentioned that's what they do with clear parts all the time because there's no other option, but now days a lot of manufactures try to avoid this sort of thing.

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Crap I just noticed in your photo of a rudder it looks like the trim tab is not scribe there.. FYI can you show the other(right) side of the rudder I want to see if they got the details correct the early P40 different on that side of the rudder vs the the later P40

 

Edited by HBBates
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49 minutes ago, HBBates said:

Crap I just noticed in your photo of a rudder it looks like the trim tab is not scribe there.. FYI can you show the other(right) side of the rudder I want to see if they got the details correct the early P40 different on that side of the rudder vs the the later P40

 

 

Yes the trim tab is only scribed on the right side, I didn't notice that earlier! It's quite deeply scribed and may be difficult scribing it the same on the right side, I think the easiest thing will be to remove it and scratch one from plasticard. Here's the picture of the right side. As you can see it's one of the parts that didn't have the mold polished.

 

F1257BF99F82461B82734C3F0BFF808B.jpg

 

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6 minutes ago, Jon Kunac-Tabinor said:

Holy  Un-trimmable trim tabs!!  Yep - just checked too. We have a "single sided" trim tab on the rudder. OOPS!  That's a tad embarrassing for Aunty.

 

Still - not exactly a hard fix - though to be fair - one shouldnt need to have to.

 

Jonners

 

They did a similar thing on their Hurricane - the fairing that fits around the tailplane was scribed on the left hand side but not on the right side. Not quite sure how these things get missed before the final mold is cut.

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5 hours ago, Tbolt said:

 

Yes the trim tab is only scribed on the right side, I didn't notice that earlier! It's quite deeply scribed and may be difficult scribing it the same on the right side, I think the easiest thing will be to remove it and scratch one from plasticard. Here's the picture of the right side. As you can see it's one of the parts that didn't have the mold polished.

 

F1257BF99F82461B82734C3F0BFF808B.jpg

 

Yep.. the top on the rudder on the right side should not have that hinge but that's no big deal it can be removed... and the right  is correct in that access hatch for the trim tab linkage access...

P36%20early%20P40%20rudder_zpsniiw5yn7.j

Edited by HBBates
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