Concorde 1/72 - Heller, no Airfix, no Revell

[The Spadgent]

Just found this on on here.

Your bit looks different to his bit. Might be worth seeing if you could get a new bit from revell?  Airfix? Heller?  Good luck again. 

 

john

 

ps.  just saw you have posted on this thread.  again. As you were bud. 

Edited October 24, 2016 by The Spadgent

[Space Ranger]

Looks like your visor may have a molding flaw. And flaw or not it appears to be definitely too thick to fit properly; I wonder if a vac-formed replacement would look better.

 

I've also read that the clear plastic linkage is prone to breakage; would a resin replacement be stronger?

[HP42]

14 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

Just found this on on here.

Your bit looks different to his bit. Might be worth seeing if you could get a new bit from revell?  Airfix? Heller?  Good luck again. 

 

john

 

 

I concur with the above. Ced, your visor is short shot which is a bit of a bummer, especially if you want to move said object.   I guess you could fill it if you kept it locked closed, but a replacement is a better option.

 

Interesting to see the mechanism in action. I think I mentioned that one of the transparent struts in my kit was broken inside the bag. Given that the broken off part wasn't even in the sealed bag it must have happened in the factory which says it all for the fragility of the concept. Mine's being modelled closed so I can work on the panel gap, as well as make the view under the visor more realistic. I also think it looks better but the option to droop it would be nice. If ever Airfix produced a new mould (can't see that ever happening) a redesign would be good. I did wonder if making the parts from a tougher plastic would help.

Edited October 24, 2016 by HP42
Kant spel

[keefr22]

3 hours ago, CedB said:

 As far as casting my own parts (fnaar fnaar!) I've just had an email about Plasmo's video on 'Blue Stuff / Oyumaru' and I think I might get some and give it a try with Milliput? Any views?

 

 

Watch you don't singe your fingers on the Oyumaru when you melt it for use. Don't bother asking who did.....

 

I used casting resin when I used my Oyu', I'd guess Miliput would work as the Oyu' moulds dry quite hard. TBH though Istill prefer mould making rubber, think it captures detail a little better...

 

Keith

 

Edit: Just watched the video Ced, it hadn't occured to me to try making two part moulds out of the stuff & it's obviously easier to use something like miliput. I'm going to have another play!

[Mattlow]

Looks like a short shot Ced... I would get on to Revell and ask for a replacement part... it'd be a right pain trying to tidily repair that.

 

Matt

 

Edit... oops.. missed all the new posts stating the same as me..

[HP42]

 

Another picture of my canopy for reference in case you decide to fill...

[CedB]

Thanks Guy, especially for the shot of your part. I shall ponder (see below)  

Thanks John and Matt  

Thanks Micheal (Space Ranger) - the support parts are surprisingly like the real thing as shown here but they still need to come out

Keith thanks for the warning on the Oyumaru and please let me know how you get on if you try it first  

 

A few searches found some pictures of the real thing:

 

 

 

Note the bendy top, but (obviously) this closes really tight and it's not visible in some photos:

 

By Plismo - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6797020

 

So I think I'll get away with filling the gaps - there are lots of others to fill too!

I've also been noticing what looks like a gap between the nacelles and the wing but now I think it looks bigger because of the top of the intake flaps:

 

 

[AlexN]

On 25/10/2016 at 04:02, CedB said:

As far as casting my own parts (fnaar fnaar!) I've just had an email about Plasmo's video on 'Blue Stuff / Oyumaru' and I think I might get some and give it a try with Milliput? Any views?

 

Well, that will teach me to not reload the page before posting - everyone else got in first with their advice, making mine completely redundant. Please let me know Ced, and I'll delete this; but I'll leave it here for the time being...

 

Hmm... ...Interesting... you trade air bubbles, mould release agent and registration pins (I'll post some snaps of my silicone moulds on my Seafire thread, to avoid clutttering up yours - mine is so cluttered that there is very little Seafire left ) for some easily-removed flash - and care in pushing the putty into the mould. What's not to like?

 

I have to say that I was sceptical at the beginning of the video as to how putty - particularly Milliput - would go, being far more viscous than casting resins. I have to say that I was convinced by his very capable (and practised!) demonstration.

 

Regarding the mixing of such things as Milliput, I actually form sausages or snakes of each part first then twine them together, and continue on like that until I am certain that the stuff is completely mixed - the latter cannot be stressed enough. It is equally important, especially in cool to cold places such as the UK (and especially up in Scotland) to keep the epoxy as warm as possible while mixing and setting/curing (but not too hot while mixing or it might start setting on you before you can squash it nto the mould) - as epoxy catalysis is dependent on heat. This is why putting mixed Milliput (for example) in the freezer stops it from setting. I should say that I am a great fan of epoxies, having worked intensively with them in boat-building and model r/c aircraft, and an anti fan of polyester resin. PU sit closer in my likes to epoxy than  polyester (and not just because I tried to make strawberry wine once!¹)

 

That procss on the video would be great for knocking off making duplicates of needed parts - I went down the laborious and fraught path of the silicone moulds and PU castng resin - without the essential airbox, and paid the price in many bubbly parts. I eventually got a couple that were passable, and learnt quite a bit (the part was a rudder-half from a Trumpeter 1/32 MiG-3).

 

I hope that all that is of at least some use - to someone!

 

Cheers,

Alex

 

 

 

¹ I quite literally poisoned myself with the strawberry esters - it was truly horrible.

[AlexN]

Gosh, she'a a breathtaking beautiful (speed)bird! Even with her snoot down.

 

Why on earth did Airfix - or Heller - design those snout arms in clear plastic? That's just asking for trouble since clear polystyrene is so brittle. And totally unneccesary by the look of it, unless they poke up into view when the snout is closed up. I can't tell from here, and the kit is the only aircraft one in my collection that is still in its original shrink-wrapping. Maybe I'll go back and have another snuffle at your photo(s).

 

Cheers,

Alex

[rob85]

Wifi! 

 

Looking great ced! Canopy looks nice and thin..... And good to see you WANT to get the nose working. Looking forward to how you takle this.

 

currently sat in Bordeaux, tonnes of kids running around (mostly mine) waiting for enough energy to take the too the swimming pool.... It's only in the other room but we did celebrate our arrival last night quite well....wedding today at some point...not mine I'm not a bigamist 

 

Rob

[keefr22]

2 hours ago, AlexN said:

 

Well, that will teach me to not reload the page before posting - everyone else got in first with their advice, making mine completely redundant. Please let me know Ced, and I'll delete this; but I'll leave it here for the time being...

 

Regarding the mixing of such things as Milliput, I actually form sausages or snakes of each part first then twine them together, and continue on with that until I am certain that the stuff is completely mixed - the latter cannot be stressed enough.

 

Can't speak for Ced of course Alex, but I certainly don't think your post redundant - that info on mixing Miliput is of great interest to me as it might be the answer to why I've never got on with the stuff. I've always just cut equal amounts off & rolled them together into a ball & tried mixing them that way - it seems pretty obvious that I've never been mixing it properly (tbh it did seem obvious at the time, but I get fed up easily!) I shall give your method a try when I get chance to dig the Oyumaru out again.

 

@Ced - it could be a while before I have chance for another play, as I'm in the middle of trying to get a pile of kits ready to sell at telford, & it takes me so long to do anything these days I might still be at that the day before....I have no doubt you'll beat me to the Oyumaru (or similar) trial...!!

 

Keith

[CedB]

Thanks Alex As Keith has said certainly not 'redundant' and thanks for the tip. Sorry you're still having trouble with your devices and I sympathise - the iMac / TV in the bedroom decided to rattle and turn its screen on at 2am last night... zzzzzz

The parts are clear I think because they can be seen through the visor - see photo in post above. I need to scratch a panel to hide the gap.

 

Thanks Rob - have a good wedding!

 

Thanks Keith - not long to Telford now and I hope to see you there.

 

I too will be slow to post over the next few days - life, don't talk to me about life!

[TheBaron]

Just spent some time catching up Ced only to read of your struggle with the Visor-Demon. On the surface it looks a simple engineering problem until the vagaries of plastic-moulding get involved.

 

I can't help thinking that it is issues like this where the traditional moulding route falters, that 3D-printing is going to be a much more useful addition to our tool kits - providing running costs drop to the equivalent of photographic printing. I mention this knowing full-well your propensity for 'maximum-toolage' on a build!

 

Good luck with resolving that nose - sorry I've no useful advice on the matter!

Tony

[Nigel Heath]

I'm on board for this one . Nice looking work so far. That visor is a short shot, you should get a replacement from Revell, their spare parts service is actually pretty good.

Quote

I've stared at her in the field at Filton

 

I use to work in an Airbus office directly overlooking this beauty.

[AlexN]

Hello Keith, I remember following a build thread of a boat builder up in the wilds of Scotland building a protoype RAID boat using epoxy and plywood - in the middle of winter. It was no wonder that he was nearly beside himself by the end, since he could barely keep himself warm enough - let alone the thin easily-cooled coats of resin. He was under pressure because he was building the boat for a customer, and the designer - in Oz - was also involved. It was a real lesson in where and when not to build a boat using those materials. A little bit like where and when I built mine, but not nearly as extreme.

 

At least in your case the quantities of resin can fit snugly in your hand and keep it nice and warm .

 

I can just imagine Ced with a Lidar setup and a 3D printer - no kit would be safe!

 

Good luck with the supersonic windshield/visor, Marvin, I mean Ced .

 

Cheers,

Alex

[Leonl]

Looking very good Mr B.... 

 

I have found memories of seeing Concorde pass over my school in Cardiff everyday at 11:08.... It was so common it was a non-event... If only I knew then.

 

The Concorde story is one of the only instances where development/technology has taken a step backwards IMHO.... 

 

Do I read that I have missed a CedB Spitfire build?

 

L 

[sailorboy61]

Mine is in the stash, well at the bottom! Seemed like a good idea at the time!!

[CedB]

Thanks Tony and Alex  I've looked at laser printing setups and a ) they were too dear and b ) they were rubbish. As prices come down and quality goes up they'll be even more tempting...

 

Hi Nigel and welcome, glad to have you aboard  You used to work at Airbus? Lucky... I'm going to try filler on the visor as I think the missing bit is painted anyway. Wish me luck!

 

Thanks Leon  You have missed a Spitfire build, hidden in the MTO GB. Enjoyed it! I agree we've gone backwards in some ways in lots of areas... I guess capitalism has its down side.

 

Thanks Sailorboy - it is a bit scary  

 

 

I've stolen Phil's (HP42) idea of using some card to hide the space under the visor, now painted up and, with the remaining 'never to be seen again' transfer fitted in the main canopy I'm ready for nose assembly (gulp):

 

 

[Mattlow]

Well, your valiant foray into this kit has inspired me... and the fact that Jadlam have it for £24 post included.. :)...

 

So, I'll be watching closely to see how you deal with tricksy areas like the nose...

 

Matt

[HP42]

Don't forget to move the flight deck back a few mm! The cabin windows and 'never to be seen again decal' won't fit otherwise as the instrument panel combing is too far forward. Try and even up the transparency in the front fuselage as I think it's a fraction too narrow. On mine the starboard side is flush and the port side is set in a fraction, wish I'd averaged the difference now.

 

The foray into Green stuff's Blue stuff was very interesting. Bought a small pack of it to try out on something. It reminds me of polymorph except that it stays soft and most importantly it doesn't stick to itself. I do wonder if compressing the mould within a flat sided box would allow you to add a little pressure and get a little more definition in the casting?

[tomprobert]

Here we go, Ced - don't let anyone ever tell you it can't be built 

 

 

 

Keep up the good work - looking great so far 

 

Tom

Edited October 25, 2016 by tomprobert

[CedB]

Matt I hope you like the results - if I pull it off (fnaar fnaar!) it will be a great addition to the collection  

Thanks Phil I'm still wrestling with the nose end and I think a problem might be caused by the main window part needing to fit behind the engineer's panel? That said I have knocked off the i/p already so it's been left loose for further fiddling.

Thanks for the photos Tom - yours looks great; good job!

 

17 hours ago, Nigel Heath said:

... you should get a replacement from Revell, their spare parts service is actually pretty good.

 

Thanks again Nigel, I've just sent a message to Revell via their website 'service form' so as to keep my options open

[AlexN]

On 10/25/2016 at 03:47, CedB said:

One day I may try it, but I'm a bit worried by the warning "Small parts are a choking hazard". Poor Meerkat  

 

Very amusing  

[dreadeddrew]

Hi Ced,

I'd like to tag along too,as your build & the reduced price proved too much for me & my wallet!

I'm a bit disappointed with just the one set of livery though,I much prefer the previous rendition,it just seems a bit classier in my opinion. (If anyone has it & doesn't intend to use it,would you be so kind as to consider selling/donating/binning it in my general direction??.......pretty pleeease!)

That nose looks tricky......I'll be watching very carefully as to how you sort it,

cheers,

Andrew

[Mattlow]

Ced

 

If you get another set of clear parts from Revell, you may want to try a method I found on the web to deal with the not wide enough cockpit windows.  This person cut the transparency in half up the central pillar - that allowed him to set the side panels flush with the fuselage side. He then filled the resulting gap in the windscreen with a piece of of plasticard.

 

Not sure I'd do it with only one part, but if you've got a spare....

 

Matt