glitter painting

[busnproplinerfan]

Has anyone used loose glitter on paint for custom stuff? I want to give it a try using ulrafine craft glitter. i want a heavy scale metalflake (metallic) without using an actual autobody spraygun. I tried the one the glitter with the gel, but had to severely thin it down and flow it on a test body. It didn't flow evenly, so I figure the loose stuff might be better.

[krow113]

It can be done. Here is ultra mini flake with Tamiya clear orange anda lotta Future:

[busnproplinerfan]

It can be done. Here is ultra mini flake with Tamiya clear orange anda lotta Future:

That's what I want. The mini flake, the loose stuff right? If so, I guess you sprinkle it on when the base paint is wet? would it matter what the base colour is? I guess you would bury any fine surface detail such as emblems, badges etc

Edited September 10, 2016 by busnproplinerfan

[lasermonkey]

I'm currently respraying a bass guitar with a purple metalflake aerosol can. I'm sure you'll get a finer finish with an aerosol than dropping glitter or flake onto wet lacquer. Although I will be trying the large flake onto lacquer technique on a guitar at some point, you have to cover with lots of lacquer afterwards, and do an awful lot of rubbing down to get a smooth finish.

The aerosol metalflake has fine flake particles, so would probably look right for a scale large flake.

[krow113]

For that beastie I sprayed a silver metallic base.

Then straight Future with the flake in it, this takes time and experience , high pressure , flakes everywhere , coat after coat after coat after coat to get an even distribution of flake , then straight Future , a lotta coats to bury the flake , let it dry for a month.

Then the 'candy' translucent coats , Tamiya clear orange in this case , 4-5 to get the color even all over.

Then a dozen more coats of straight Future to seal the color and continue the smoothing. Wet sanding can be done , but if you are decent enough with the airbrush and allow 12-15 minutes between EVERY coat it will flow out nicely and dry glossy.

[busnproplinerfan]

For that beastie I sprayed a silver metallic base.

Then straight Future with the flake in it, this takes time and experience , high pressure , flakes everywhere , coat after coat after coat after coat to get an even distribution of flake , then straight Future , a lotta coats to bury the flake , let it dry for a month.

Then the 'candy' translucent coats , Tamiya clear orange in this case , 4-5 to get the color even all over.

Then a dozen more coats of straight Future to seal the color and continue the smoothing. Wet sanding can be done , but if you are decent enough with the airbrush and allow 12-15 minutes between EVERY coat it will flow out nicely and dry glossy.

I just have a Badger 155 d.a. and a single action 200, would those work do you think? would I need a special tip?

[krow113]

I dont know , I just used my cheapo china brush.

Just get started on it, you'll have to experiment and figure it out.

The flake went through my brush without any trouble first time out.

Maybe decanting from a metalflake spray can would be better.

Edited September 11, 2016 by krow113

[busnproplinerfan]

I dont know , I just used my cheapo china brush.

Just get started on it, you'll have to experiment and figure it out.

The flake went through my brush without any trouble first time out.

Maybe decanting from a metalflake spray can would be better.

Yes, I'll have to see what happens, test it out.

[lasermonkey]

Actually, looking at Krow's beautiful paint job, the flake is much, much finer than what's in my rattle can! The only advantage I can think of using a rattle can is that it probably less messy.

If I wanted a good scale result, I'd persevere with any possible mess and go with Krow's method. That finish!

[busnproplinerfan]

On 9/11/2016 at 6:58 AM, lasermonkey said:

Actually, looking at Krow's beautiful paint job, the flake is much, much finer than what's in my rattle can! The only advantage I can think of using a rattle can is that it probably less messy.

If I wanted a good scale result, I'd persevere with any possible mess and go with Krow's method. That finish!

i was told by an autobody painter that if you hold the spraygun farther away, the metallics will stand up more, and if you are closer they will get more burried. That would be for real cars, not sure if the same would be true on small stuff.

[lasermonkey]

That's what I'd heard too, and it what I do when I'm spraying metallics onto effect pedal enclosures. I spray a wet coat, then back off and mist the last coat on. It's definitely more sparkly, though you do need to gloss it thoroughly afterwards.

 And yes, there are metallic flakes everywhere afterwards!

[busnproplinerfan]

7 hours ago, lasermonkey said:

That's what I'd heard too, and it what I do when I'm spraying metallics onto effect pedal enclosures. I spray a wet coat, then back off and mist the last coat on. It's definitely more sparkly, though you do need to gloss it thoroughly afterwards.

 And yes, there are metallic flakes everywhere afterwards!

Makes sense, I'll have to try this out soon.