PIPboy Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Hey everyone, I recently found an old Italeri F-16DG/DJ which I built at a time when I didn't really bother with filling gaps, I painted way too thick, etc. so it looks pretty bad compared to my more recent works. Anyway, I still like the kit so I'll try to save it and even if I don't succeed, it's good for practice and for experimenting with new techniques. My first step was trying to get rid of the old paint. I tried a trick that was new to me: soaking the model in pipe cleaner liquid for days and then rubbing it with a toothbrush. It worked really well on most of the aircraft but the cockpit, the gearbays and (oddly enough) the decals remained almost unharmed. As I finished this model about a decade ago, I don't remember exactly what I've used to paint these parts but I think they were painted with enamels while the rest (that went away without a problem) was acrylic. There is nothing else on the model, just the (many, many, many) layers of paint. Is there a way to remove enamels and decals without damaging the plastic under it? Ps.: At least the gear bays look great now! They used to be yellowish due to age and/or some contamination in the paint but now they are stunningly white Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneEighthBit Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) I can only speak from experience but soaking them in methylated spirits (t-röd here in Sweden) in a zip-lock bag for half and hour the some gently scrubbing with a scrubbing sponge did it for me. Seemed that friction helped lift the paint more than anything. Two notes. 1) It does make the plastic go a little bit more flexible but doesn't seem to warp or melt it and washing it off thorough seems to make it return to normal. 2) Don't soak your hands in meths. It dries them out and breaks down fatty tissue. Even getting a little bit on my hands left them dried and chapped for a week. Edited September 4, 2016 by OneEighthBit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PIPboy Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Thank you for the tip! How can I clean the methylated spirit off the plastic after I'm done removing the paint? Is it enough if I rinse it with water? Edit: Also, do you know if it will affect super glue or not? Edited September 4, 2016 by PIPboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneEighthBit Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Yeah, that's all I did. Quick rinse of in warm soapy water. Edited September 4, 2016 by OneEighthBit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PIPboy Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Great, I'll give it a shot in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 If the spirit doesn't work, then Mr Muscle Oven cleaning stuff removes humbrol with ease, without any discernible damage to the plastic. Well worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzio Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I've just used Dettol antiseptic liquid (the brown stuff) to strip paint off a model. It worked really well, just make sure you use gloves and try to scrub under the liquid. It will minimise the spray around. A mask wouldn't be a bad shout either. Kind Regards, Dazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneEighthBit Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 I think the oven cleaner/dettol works as they contain ammonia? I had problems finding any cleaning products here in Sweden that had any useful ammonia content which is why I went for meths. BTW, don't make my mistake - I googled "paint removal models" and found tips to use brake fluid/ammonia. That's for *metal* models. Using that on plastic just melts it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMrEd Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Automotive brake fluid is usually pretty effective. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallBlondJohn Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) Oven cleaner will work but leaves the plastic brittle (probably destroys the phenols) and will greatly weaken liquid cement bonds. Repeated applications and the plastic will actually crumble - I know from experience - and will cloud any clear parts. Humbrol enamels can be removed very easily with Mr Color Thinner with no side effects (well try not to inhale it) and without damaging the plastic (it may well remove putty as well, depends on the brand). Tamiya acrylics dissolve easily in Tesco (or Sainsburys) Value All-Purpose Cleaner, which is Alcohol Ethoxylate, Benzisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone, you should be able to find a local equivalent. I use it to clear out the old pots. Edited September 9, 2016 by TallBlondJohn 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Tamiya acrylics dissolve easily in Tesco (or Sainsburys) Value All-Purpose Cleaner, which is Alcohol Ethoxylate, Benzisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone, you should be able to find a local equivalent. I use it to clear out the old pots. The Asda version has exactly the same effect. Costs about 25p per litre. Diluted (and well washed off) it is also good for cleaning the kit to remove mould release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richj Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Try acetone free nail polish remover. Worked for me on a car I did. See the link for pics, hope this helps. Rich http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965877-scalectrix-ford-focus-wrc/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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