Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection

[Roy vd M.]

Learning something new everyday on this site. I found it on Conrad Holland ('Snij-ijzer') and will probably order them rather sooner than later.

[Dr. Fiat]

This is just incredible work.  Loving every picture!!!

[CrazyCrank]

31 minutes ago, Dr. Fiat said:

This is just incredible work.  Loving every picture!!!

 

Thanks a lot, Dr FIAT for these kind words

[CrazyCrank]

Still expecting the postman for my thread taps of 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 mm, I can't continue the building of my braking cables.

 

And having no much patience today to assemble the second chain, I've decided to have fun, trying to manufacture a new footbrake pedal, before making too clutch and accelerator ones.

Why ?...because the kit pedals are awfull plastic made and too thick...so, if I can process ones, thinner and nicer....why not...

 

Step by step:

 

You need:

 

- 1.5 mm thick brass sheet

- 3 mm brass tube

- A drawing pin

- Soldering iron and silver wire

- A Dremel with grinding wheel

- Some files

 

Step 1: put the pedal on the brass sheet

 

 

Step 2: scribe the pedal shape on the sheet with the drawing pin, then scribe the pedal axis position on the future pedal plate (all dimensions taken with a steel rule and a sliding caliper)

 

 

Step 3: cut the plate with your Dremel, leaving clearance for future triming and  fitting

 

 

Step 4: Trim and sand the pedal plate

 

  

 

Step 5 Optional :  scribe a non slipping pattern on the plate

 

 

After sanding, I'm not so happy with the pattern, i'ts quite out of scale, and not enough deep. I probably will stick a piece of non-slipping corrugated aluminium sheet on it...anyway, the set will be painted mat black later

 

 

Step 6: cut a 4-5 mm brass tube 3.00 mm outer gauge, one of the end MUST be perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the tube, all around it

 

 

 

Step 7: place the brass pedal plate in a second hand, perfectly horizontal, and place the brass tube on the exact position... verify the exact location with the steel rule.

 

 

Step 8: heat this set with the soldering iron, and let flush the weld into the hole of the tube...If you have well worked, the tube is soldered on the plate, perpendicular to it in all directions.

If it is bended, you must redo the job, heating the set and fixing the position of the tube.

 

 

   

 

Step 9: After filing

 

 

Step 10: Well, and now, how am I going to thread this pedal on its shaft ?... Must drill a hole of 1.5 mm into the pedal axis, eliminating the weld, and preparing the 2.00 mm threading job

 

  

 

Step 11:   Just remains to thread the pedal axis with a 2 mm thread tap....OMG, haven't yet received it ......Must wait to achieve this job

 

However, the method seems good, and, waiting for these tools, I can manufacture the two other pedals.

According to the reference photos, the accelerator's one will be disk-shaped..

 

Stay tuned, if you like it...I must visit my dentist  !  Mercy, my Lords, pray for me....

Edited October 12, 2016 by CrazyCrank

[CrazyCrank]

I will cover the plate of each pedal with corrugated alu sheet to imitate the non-slip surface of the real pedals
And all the sets will be painted flat black or semi-mat black
Notice that the corrugated alu, that you can see below under the two pedals, will be glued on the plate, in order to put the pattern diagonally




Still one pedal to make, disk-shaped, for the accelerator  

[CrazyCrank]

Actually not very able to follow a planned and  obsessed work !

But still working on the braking system, and torturing my little pieces of brass !

 

I'm also still expecting my thread taps, and I cannot continue the assembly of braking cables without them.

 

So, having had an idea, (looking at my reference pictures, and on suggestion of a danish modeler, thanks Egon ), on how to enhance the hand brake lever, and - why not ? - trying to make it functional, I've begun to make some parts from brass sheet 2 and 1.5 mm thick, drill bits 0.5 and 1 mm, brass rod 0.5 mm, brass tube 1 mm / 0.5 mm gauges, and my soldering iron.

 

And after several tries and fitting hours, I've produced something starting to resemble to a draft of hand brake lever !

 

In the kit, the lever is made of a 2 mm thick plated rod, with at its bottom end a "washer" (that thread on a threaded shaft, on which are attached levers connected to the braking cable...when you pull the hanbrake lever, the shaft levers move forward, pulling on the braking cables etc....)

The hand-brake lever is placed on the threaded shaft rather close to a toothed plate. These two parts are supposed to simulate the real handbrake lever 

 

  

 

And now, see below a diagram of the true system on the T46 and probably the T50 Buggatis (accordind to my reference photos)

 

 

When you push on the handle button, the rod move down, push down the rear part of an articulated cam, whose front toothed end moves up, coming out the toothed plate, what allows to pull backward the handbrake lever, operating rear brakes , pffff !

When you release the button, the rod moves up, the front end of the cam goes down and anchors on the toothed plate, blocking the lever, and the brakes..Etc...

 

So, what do we need ?

 

1/ A new handbrake lever: I've drawn it with a tracing point on a brass sheet 2.0 mm thick.

It's not cutted out at the moment, because a lot of tries have to be done.

 

I've drilled 2 mm the shaft hole, at the bottom end, and 1 mm the cam axis hole above.....

 

2/ A cam, that will be articulated, one the one hand with the handbrake lever , and one the other hand with the rod connected to the handle button of the handbrake lever

 

I've made it from a 1.5 mm brass sheet; in fact, I've made 3 of them and have thrown the first two, because they didnt't work, when making test runs.

 

......some hours of microscopic job. This part is 6.5 mm x 2 mm, and 1.2 mm thick (once sanded and polished)

 

On the middle, a 1 mm hole has been drilled, and at the rear end, a 0.5 mm hole.

 

Then, a 0.5 mm brass  rod has been threaded in the rear hole, then this rod has been soldered, then a few sanding to eliminate exceeding weld, and I've got this:

 

   

 

3/ An articulated rod for the rear ot this cam, that will allow, while pressing the lever handle button, to move down its rear end  and up its front end

 

So, I've taken a 1 mm brass tube and made, with my usual method, a little connector for the rear axis of the cam

 

 

 

Then soldered a 0.5 mm brass rod in the connector's hole :

 

 

 

Test runs:

 

     

 

 

 

The rod will be bended to follow the curvature of the hanbrake lever

 

A lot of things to do now

 

- cut out the handbrake lever of the brass sheet, trim and sand it.

- Make the axis to fix the cam on the handbrake lever, leaving the cam freely spine,  and fix the working rod on the cam axis, that must too spin freely

- Adjust the length of these two cam axis and the location of the handbrake lever on the shaft, so that, once the ensemble is placed on the braking shaft, the toothed front end of the cam just fall onto the teeth of the toothed plate....that to allow the system to work.

- make a handle for the handbrake lever, through which come the lever and the cam rod

 

And a new interesting challenge: See if there's a way to place a spring on this system, so that the hanlde button can return to its start position, and the front end of the cam can move down and block the handbrake lever...

 

Stay tuned if you like...thanks for looking 

Edited October 15, 2016 by CrazyCrank

[CrazyCrank]

Handbrake lever is made, cutted out of the brass sheet, carefully filed, sanded, and polished, comparing  oftenly its shape to the kit's lever one.

 

And I've got this:

 

 

 

Little test run on the shaft with the toothed plate, the cam and the axis

 

   

 

 

Now, making of the handle..I've used a 4 mm gauge styrene rod, as long as is the handle in the kit, that I've drilled it 0.5 then 0.8 mm completely bored-through lengthwise.

At the bottom end, I've drilled and shaped a hole where will be threaded and glued the upper end of the handbrake lever

 

  

 

Temporary assembly

 

 

 

 

It works

 

 

Enhancement of the handle

 

   

Quite achieved:

 

  

 

What remains to do ?...

 

- Nickel platting or Alclad chrome painting of the handbrake lever and all its components

- Semi-gloss black painting of the handle

- Trim the working rod

- Place a button on top of it on the handle to operate the working rod

- Imagine a spring system that allows the rod to come back to its initial position when you stop pressing the button, and scratch build it (If someone has an idea for such a system...)

- replace the photo-etched levers at the end of the shaft by brass nice scratch built  ones

- Adjust and block the cam axis after trial fiting to detremine the exact position of the handbrake lever on the shaft.

 - Install the whole system on the chassis and pray that all fit well, right the first time.,when I'll install on the chassus on the carrier carpeted floor

 

And then, I hope having received my thread taps, in order to achieve the footbrake and handbrake cables...

 

Stay tuned if you like it...Thanks for looking, advises and criticism

Edited October 15, 2016 by CrazyCrank

[CrazyCrank]

I've found the way to place a spring on the mechanism of the handbrake lever, so that the button on the handle is "elastic"

 

When you press it, the rod move down, the cam releases and you can move forward or backward the lever.

When you release the button, the cam blocks on the toothed plate and maintain the lever

 

I've used a new small connector made of brass 1 mm tube, have soldered in its hole a little piece of music steel wire 0.28 mm gauge, this wire has been bended to  form an arch, whose free end has been soldered on the bottom of the lever, just above the shaft's hole. The hole of the connector threads on the cam rear axis.

 

When you press the handle button, this arch is pressed downward, and when you release the button, it get back its initial shape, moving upward the rear end of the cam, whose front end moves simultaneously down, blocking in the toothed plate

 

The working rod moved by the button had been changed and reinforced using 0.6 mm rod, because the 0.5mm one was too soft and distorted when pressing the handle button

 

 

Test fitting, of the whole handbrake system placed on the chassis: that looks like the real car

 

 

 

 

And it works of course:

 

 

 

 

A lot of work remains, of course...probably sunday evening......

 

Stay tuned if you like and than you for looking...Advices and remarks are welcome

 

Edited October 15, 2016 by CrazyCrank

[Roy vd M.]

That's just crazy. 

 

Ok CrazyCrank I think it's time to put an end to this build because it's getting quite silly... working handbrakes should be reserved for full sized cars. On behalf of all fully scaled and functional cars I must protest against these latest developments, it's simply going too far. And not only on behalf of the cars, also on behalf of us mediocre modelers who now would somehow assume that it's possible and/or desirable to make a functional handbrake on a scale car. What's next, firing spark plugs? A functional horn? 

 

 

But probably you'll just continue this build anyway, and at the same level. 

 

Ok, ok, I'll keep following it. 

 

Ok I'll learn some more. 

[CrazyCrank]

6 hours ago, Roy vd M. said:

That's just crazy. 

 

Ok CrazyCrank I think it's time to put an end to this build because it's getting quite silly... working handbrakes should be reserved for full sized cars. On behalf of all fully scaled and functional cars I must protest against these latest developments, it's simply going too far. And not only on behalf of the cars, also on behalf of us mediocre modelers who now would somehow assume that it's possible and/or desirable to make a functional handbrake on a scale car. What's next, firing spark plugs? A functional horn? 

 

 

But probably you'll just continue this build anyway, and at the same level. 

 

Ok, ok, I'll keep following it. 

 

Ok I'll learn some more. 

 

Hello  Roy

 

I think I must thank you thousand times for these comments, but I' m a bit annoyed with the word "silly"....that may have several meanings....And I do not speak english well enough to decipher easily the global sense of a saying.....Should I understand "stupid" or "insane" ? ..........................Well !  take it easy, my friend ! 

 

Because I'm probably a remake of Dr Jekill and Mr Hyde ,and both acceptations of this word may apply...

 

Having said that; on behalf of my all personalities, and of my beloved Bugatti, I want let you know my vigourous protest after your sweet reproaches !

It's YOUR fault, of all of you, "mediocre modelers" , if I've set myself the objective to do better and again better.....be sure however my wings are not Icare's one 

 

Reading your topics since a few months, I only have to notice that it was possible to build a kit differently that directly OOTB, and the study of your technics and methods demonstrated the high level of skill and inventiveness you all had reached ! YOU all are the best !

I've thought your builds amazing, sometimes crazy too, always stimulating.... and I discovered an interest for enhancing and scratch building. Not my fault Sir !

 

In fact, my work on this Bugatti (Car's brand I'm fallen in love when I was a young boy), is at the same time, a game, a challenge, a creative outlet for all the dificulties I encounter in my daily professional life...

I realise I like to work finely with my fingers.....That is the most powerfull motivation, not to build a "stunning masterpiece", as said some modelers...

 

Am I going too far ?

 

When I was a little boy, so fifty and more years ago, human being created talking dolls, with moving blue eyes...I lived in a kind of poetic world.

 

 

Today, human beeing create Lilliputian drones, Missile launcher ballpens or penguns, iWatches, and even talking cars (do you remember, old men, the american series "My mother the car"? I was a passionate fan) ....All that is incredible and totally crazy....We live today in a absurd and dangeroux but fascinating world.

 

 

 

I would WANT to fall back in childhood  combining poetry of the old ladies that are these vintage cars and thorough engeneering....in that way, modeling could be art...

 

So, I've planned for this model car some other enhancements, and among many, the following:

 

- Reproduce the real engine sound of this T50 Bug, when turning ingnition switch, with simultaneously a little trembling of the chassis reproducing engine vibrations.

- Working tyre inflating valves...for the four wheels AND EVEN for the two spare wheels !!! (crazy, isn't it ?), with a working handpump...whatever it takes 

 

And please, don't talk me about firing 1:8 scale spark plugs, because it's clearly impossible.....as for now, ....but I promise I shall look into the matter very carefully 

 

Thanks and best regards to all of you, Gentlemen, 

 

CC

[Roy vd M.]

Just kidding of course, I meant silly in a pythonesque way. You are doing a splendid, amazing job and my comments are just a poor attempt at hiding my envy

[CrazyCrank]

5 minutes ago, Roy vd M. said:

Just kidding of course, I meant silly in a pythonesque way. You are doing a splendid, amazing job and my comments are just a poor attempt at hiding my envy

 

Of course have I perfectly understood, Roy, and have appreciated the joke....

And that's why I answered the same way...

 

Having said that:

 

- 1/ There's no reason to be envious, because you make hundred times better than me, and, what I make you've not yet made, you could make it as well as me, if not much better !

 

- 2/ I'm joking with my functional tyres inflating valves, but I'll scratch build others, because those provided with the kit (same one for all Pocher vintage cars, between us is known), are totally out of scale and unrealistic

 

- 3/ I'm NOT joking, when I talk about making my model have an engine sound ... It's perfectly  realisable !

A couple of years ago, when I was interested in boat models, I read in MRB journal ("Modèle réduit de bateau", "Reduced Model Boat"), an article that explained the sound system of a U-boat model. the modeler used electronic cards and sound modules.

It's possible to find sound modules on the net, for instance Here in USA

And then,  connecting all this small world, and find a realistic old car sound engine to put in a SD card

 

Why not ? I you want, you can....To a valliant heart, nothing is impossible...these are my personal mottos.

 

Thank you very muche for your encouragements and kind words 

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Not enough time today to continue the work on the handbrake system. 

And I've not already decided if i will plate the handbrake, or paint it.
If I paint, can finish the assembly and block axis, then fix the system on the chassis... If I plate the parts, I must disassemble the whole system, plate all parts, and then re-assemble, fix all that small world on chassis, and paint semi-gloss black the handle, before.

I've ordered at Frost.co.uk an electroplating module and nickel powder to plate my parts.
I dont know as for now if i'll be patient enough to wait it arrive...wait and see

2 hours to spend that evening to build something....I've scratch built  the last pedal, throttle one.
Usual tips and tricks to make it from brass:




And below, first try of covering a pedal with corrugated metal sheet, to represent a non-slip surface:



I think the metal sheet has not been placed perfectly. I'll make another try giving it a light turning offset of some degrees, to allow perfect alignment of the pattern with the borders of the pedal.

But already, it looks rather like the real one (once painted weathered black)

 

Stay tuned if you like
 

Edited October 17, 2016 by CrazyCrank

[Mpfiend]

Beautiful precision work.

 

Regards

 

Keith.

[CrazyCrank]

2 hours ago, Mpfiend said:

Beautiful precision work.

 

Regards

 

Keith.

 

Thanks for these kind words 

Regards

Thierry

[CrazyCrank]

Well...my M1, M1.6, M2 et M2.5 thread taps arrived today

 

So, i've threaded M2 the axis tube of each pedal, then sanded the plates to reduce their thickness to 1.2 mm, and I've temporarily installed the corrugated floor and three pedals, to see how do that fit..

 

Some pictures:

 

    

 

 

It remains:

 

- 1/ to find a way to move upward the throttle pedal, in order to give its plate the same level as for the two other...Must install a spring I think...

- 2/ to cover the three plates with corrugated metal sheet, and paint them weathered semi-gloss black

- 3/ get out the hanbrake system with its axle, in order to paint or nickel plate all its components, then achieve the handbrake lever, and finally solder it on the right place, after having modified the end levers of the axle (brass ones probably)

- 4/ To install the definately the whole hanbrake system on the chassis

- 5/ And achieve the making of brake cables with all itheir connectors, without forgetting to make the second chain for front footbrake end

 

It doesn't seem, but that represent a lot of work and countless hours of meticulous job, if you want to do it well.

As I'm expecting to arrive at home some tools that I've ordered, I probably begin the job by the last point on this list.

 

Stay tuned if you like...and remember:  I accept any suggestion or criticism..

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

As I said in the previous post, I'm waiting for a plating module, so I've continued my work by the fifth point of my "to do" list

 

So a liitle progress today, little because I hadn't time enough to  begin assembly of the second chain...

So, I've made 4 end connectors for the braking cables, and two (on four needed) tensioners....Remember several posts ago, I've written that in order to adjust precisely the tension of each braking cable, I'll interleave somewhere on the middle of each cable a tensioner, and I'd drawn a diagram.

 

Here it is, to avoid you spending time to search in this topic

 

 

And the making of: Brass 1.3 mm gauge tube, M1 brass bolts, M1 large head brass nuts, drill bits and a M1 thread tap

 

  

 

The bolts, before and after soldering, head against head

 

  

 

Soldered M1 bolts and two M1 nuts, before and after threading nuts on bolts

 

   

 

Then thread two 14 mm pieces of brass tube, one end of each M1 threaded on 8 mm length, on the previous set

 

   

 

And, as you can see on next pictures, while threading more or less, you can adjust the lenght of the set , easily on 10-12 mm change.

If you imagine now that on each free end of the brass tubes is attached the two sections of ONE braking cable, you could easily understand that this system allows, via a length change, to adjust the cable tension.

 

     

 

That's all as for now, folks, I leave home for a post-graduate medical session in Tours.

Thanks for looking if you like it

 

CC

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Some progress on my build tonight.

 

Have achieved the making of all connectors and tensioners for the braking cables.

Just remains for this preparatory work, to build the second chain and attach it to the front connector, and to achieve the braking cables, separating each one in two sections and glueing connectors and tensioners  on the wiring,

 

Then will begin the tries of installation of the footbrake system, with fine adjustment  of their length and of tensioners tighting, and test runs of their action on brake shoes of drum brakes

 

 

  

 

 

Concerning handbrake system, a lot of work remains, and must think about it.

 

The principal difficulty is that the handbrake lever must be soldered on the handbrake shaft, in order to spin it when pulling its handle...And numerous tries will be necessary to determine with maximum precision the location of this lever on the shaft before soldering...

Once that solved, I will be able to achieve the handbrake lever, cutting to good length the cam axis and fixing it definately.

 

Second problem that appeared when i've made tries of pulling on the handbrake lever, while depressing the handle button, is that the lever could move on the left, and doing that, the cam jumped off the toothed plate !

I've studied my reference photos and noticed that on the prototype car, there is a second plate, without teeth, on the left of the lever, and that this plate is connected to the toothed one, creating a sort of housing of which the handbrake lever cannot get out..so, it's always guided between the plates, and the cam cannot spring out of the toothed plate.

 

 

So, i've scratch built a quite similar system, from 0.5 mm thick brass sheet, and made some tries, that  produced the following:

 

  

 

     

 

And with the lever in place between two plates on the hanbrake shaft:

 

        

 

The reason for having connected the two plates by the front, when on the prototype, this is by he rear,  is very simple:

On my model, there is a spring on the lever that allows an elastic move of the cam, and this spring is placed at the back of the lever. If the plates have been connected by the rear, the spring would have quickly block on the plates connection while pulling the lever, preventing it to move completely at the rear, as a real one, and preventing by the same way the brakes to work !

 

 

All my evening work:

 

 

More to come this week-end.

Stay tuned if you like....thanks for looking and any comment  

[CrazyCrank]

Some progress more that  evening:

 

The second chain has been assembled, then connected with its connectors and brake cable

 

  

 

I'm at the moment installing the right footbrake system...

 

Not already achieved  because the two-component glueing of connectors  and tensioners on the braking wire is'nt strong enough to allow tighten it.

 

Below some pictures of this WIP

 

  

 

  

 

     

 

And a photo of the pre-installation of a tensioner on brake cable:

 

 

While glue's drying, must jump ahead.

 

Stay tuned if you like, and thand for looking and any comment

[CrazyCrank]

Very few progress today: one step forward, two steps backward

 

1/ I've achieved installation of the right footbrake cable..

 

A second chain has been made on saturday (see previous post), without difficulty, having found right the first time, the good temperature of my solderng iron, to heat and melt the pins that block the links

This chain as been used for the right cable.

 

It has been difficult to get the good tension in the cable, due to various reasons:

 

-  the nylon coated steel wire resist to the wraping that pulleys want to give it, and keep a shape not exactly the one needed

- The chain at front end of the cable is very fragile, and, strangely, lightly extendable

- while tension increase, the levers on brake drums are pulled, getting tension decrease.

- and to top it all, my two-component Araldite glue didn't resist too, and the wire came out of the connectors...so, cables on the rear brake, had been glued into connectors and tensionners, and then, the end of those has been flattened, to clamp the wire strongly.   Fortunately, that is not visible, or rather, it will not be visible, once the body placed.

 

  

 

2/ The installation of the left footbrake cable has been interrupted today by a chain breakage 

 

 I 've attempted to repair it, but it was very difficult doing that outside of the dedicated jig, and I got worse. Furthermore, a little devil undertook torture me, and the chain broke  another time on another place !

So, I undertook to build a new nice chain...

But my imp watched !

I never had the same chance than yesterday, and five attempts of chain building, each more than an hour of meticulous work, with a strong magnifying glass, had been necessary to get a 16 links chain.

Of course, it wasn't enough ! and my last chain, very nice and correctly build , at least in appearances, broke on its turn while I was fixing the connectors, and I had to repair it, or to make a sixth !

 

That time, repair was possible, and, tired after 10 hours of tedious and quite fruitless work, I've given up, and left together my car and my workbench. 

 

  

 

 

3/ And now, here are  the residues of my day's work:

 

 

4/ And what remains to install for a complete braking system (apart from spark plugs)

 

  

 

Have a good night, stay tuned if you like, and thanks for looking

 

 

 

[Dr. Fiat]

Hang in there Crank!  If it was easy, everyone would be doing it!  I love the detail of the chain, and I applaud you for including it in the build.  

[CrazyCrank]

Ordered a new photo-etched kit from Top Sudio 1:12 scale for the same motorbike Honda RC211v..

In this kit, all is metal, overall the rollers....so, I hope I'll get a stronger chain with it, and much more realistic !

 

[CrazyCrank]

Still waiting for my new chain kit, of course, and have ordered in France a new stainless steel (non plastic coated) cable of 0.58 mm gauge, made of 49 twisted brands  (7x7)  

 

It has a reputation to be - and seem - much more soft and flexible than the coated one I've used (it could be possible to tie a knot on it, and to undo it, without keeping any memory of the shape after that)  , and equally or more resistant to traction,

And would look closer of a real 1:1 braided one 

 

It's a fishing cable !!! 

 

Whilst waiting for these products, I've used what I yet owned, and installed the entire footbrake cable....Please, consider this little work as a blank fit.

 

If the new cable is as promising as the technical details said, I'll  probably redo all this work, chain included......

 

Knowing, that, finally, this braking system will never work correctly.....Indeed, the drums springs that allow brake shoes to move back to their rest location, are not strong enough to do that correctly and the friction of the brake levers on their drum socket don't aid too !

 

So, must accept that this footbrake system will be static, but aesthetically better than the kit one.

After all, this model car is not an automotive one, so, why would you want to stop it ? 

 

I can live with that, and anyway, it is impossible, at this time, to unmount the whole system of front and rear axles, drums, brake shoes etc...Would it be, I wouldn't want to !

 

 

Some pictures of this evening work:

 

Front Left  and right chains

 

  

 

Both simultaneously:

 

  

 

Rear left side view of the braking cable with it tensioner (tunrbuckle ?)

 

 

Rear brake drums view, with levers, connectors and cables

 

 

And an overview of my "bunch of spaghetti"

 

 

 

No progress for the handbrake system, because  havn't had time to familiarize myself with my electroplatting kit, and I WANT a nickel-platted handbrake lever !

 

 

[krow113]

On 2016-10-24 at 5:40 AM, CrazyCrank said:

Ordered a new photo-etched kit from Top Sudio 1:12 scale for the same motorbike Honda RC211v..

In this kit, all is metal, overall the rollers....so, I hope I'll get a stronger chain with it, and much more realistic !

 

I think you'll find that chain set is plastic rollers. The only one available with metal rollers ,that I can find , is the new MFH Brough chain, now sold separately.

Edited October 26, 2016 by krow113

[sharknose156]

Great work CC !!

Thierry hang on strong, you are doing great.

Chains are never easy !  

 

Your work on the brakes is really Bugattiesque to the hilt. 

just take a look back at the great work you have done so far ...

keep performing !