Roy vd M. Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Yes I will, please send me a copy of the e-mail you sent them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) Some progress in my work since this morning. Have been very busy all the week with my job, and no time to build anything since wednesday. I'm always working on the braking system. Not begun the chain building because I wasn't able to decide precisely which length of chain to build without having built the portion of braking cable that hooks on the drum brake lever.. First, I've had to modify the kit lever, converting its ring in a hook: Then build the end of the cable that hooks on this lever Ingredients: - brass tube of 1.33 mm diameter - Used guitar string .7 mm diameter - A soldering iron - A hand drill and drill bits of 0.5, 0.8 et 1.0 mm - Tweezers - Strong magnifying glasses - A lot of patience ans self-sacrifice Steps: - 1/ Flatten the end of your brass tube with tweezers, over 2-3 mm - 2// Drill the flattened end with 0.5 drill bit then 0.8 then and finally 1.mm drill bit - 3/ Sand this end to round it - 4/ At 4 mm of the end of the drilled end, drill a 0.5 mm hole You get this: 5/ Cut the brass tube to 6 mm and sand the second end to get this: 6/ Take your brass tube and drill at one hand a 0.8 mm hole, crossing through the tube 7/ Cut 4 mm ot this brass tube 8/ Now tou have to worked pieces of brass tube, and it remains to join them with steel cable 9/ I've taken a short length of guitar string (sorry, RoymattBlack ....) and soldered it inside the tubes, leaving apparent 4-5 mm of guitar string And I'have got that: and, as I need two connectors: After polishing To have an idea of the beginning of this braking system: Each connector is 13.5 mm long At the free (at the moment) end of the connector, will connect later a piece of chain Connector in place hooked on the drum lever, on each side, of course, waiting its piece of chain And now, i know how long my piece of chain must be.....stay tuned Edited October 2, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 To have a rest after this interesting but hard work (because it requested great attention and precision) and before beginning the chain building, I've placed one of the two firewall supports I have puchased at MotorModelCars.com.Well, no rest, because, for that too, much fitting and tries, but it was worth the efforts: It would be easier for the left one, given that the dimensions for drilling the frame rail and cutting of the aluminium support have already been precisely taken..wait and see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 For a bit of fun, before building the pieces of chain for the braking system, as I've seen the pictures of a real Bugatti T50 that have on the firewall 8 spare sparkplugs attached on a stand, I've thought on how to scratch build 1:8 rather realistic spark plugs, and, I've got, with brass rod 0.6 mm, brass tubes 1.3 and 2.0 mm, electrical copper wire of 0.2 mm, then sanding , filing, CA gel, and white paint, this part: Dimensions: 8.5 mm length, 2 mm width at the nut level Scratching process later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) Scratching process of a rather realistic sparkplug at 1:8 scale First, remember you need absolutely a sliding calliper (digital or not) 1/ Take a 2 mm brass tube 2/ Make a thread on it with a 2 mm die on 2 mm length approximatively. 3/ Cut 4 mm of the threaded brass tube 4/ Sand the non threaded hand to get 1.0-1.2 mm non threaded, you get this: 5/ take a 1.3 mm brass tube, cut 2 cm 6/ Put it in your Dremels's chuck 7/ Turn it, while filing the free end on 4 mm length to get, if possible, a lighly conical shape 8/ turn it while filing the 4 following mm, to reduce the diameter to the inner diameter of the 2 mm brass tube, so 1.2 mm for me 9/ Stop the Dremel, take the tube and cut the 8 mm you have worked on, you get this 10/ Take a M1 brass nut, 2 mm large 11/ Enlarge its hole to 1.2 mm 12/ Thread the 1.2 brass worked tube, through the nut then through the 2 mm threaded 3.1 mm length brass tube, you get this: 13/ Take a 0.6 mm brass rod, cut a 15 mm section 14/ Put on it CA gel over 10 mm on its center 15/ thread the 0.6 mm brass rod through this ensemble, you get this: 16/ cut the 0.6 mm rod at the top of the sparkplug, keeping 0.5 mm, sand the end 17/ cut the 0.6 mm brass rod at the bottom of the sparkplug, keeping 0.5 mm, sand the end, you get this: 18/ Cut a 0.2 mm copper electrical wire, 4 mm length, and bend one end, right angle, on 0.5 mm, you get this: 19/ glue with CA gel the non-bended end of this copper wire, into the bottom of the sparkplug, making the bended end approaching in close proximity of the 0.6 mm brass rod, and you get this: 20/ paint the top of the sparkplug, on the 1.2 mm brass tube over the nut, in white, and you get finally, an acceptable false sparkplug at 1:8 scale, 8.5 mm long and 2 mm large That's all guys......now, there is no excuse not to make rather realistic sparkplugs at 1:8 scale ! (sorry for the immodesty, but I'm happy, I'm happy with them, still 6 to make) Edited October 5, 2016 by CrazyCrank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Very nice, I like the write up on the spark plugs, this will be very useful. thank you Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 12 minutes ago, Mpfiend said: Very nice, I like the write up on the spark plugs, this will be very useful. thank you Regards Keith. You're welcome Keith, I'd dreamt of this build during a small nap yesterday, then slept on it, and today I've manufactured them. The result looks good, in my opinion of course, and I wanted to share with my friends....Happy if you like it and use my methods 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Too late this night to begin the chain building....Hope this will happen this week-end But I've had time to place the left firewall support 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 thanks for the build report of the sparkplugs. this is becoming really nice and detailed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 Thanks, gentlemen, for your kind comments Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Oufti ! Quel boulot, c'est absolument magnifique ! Le travail d'un tres grand maitre du modelisme. Merci pour ce WIP et pour les superbes photos. PS : Si t'as besoin des pieces, comme par example : regarde une fois ici : https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/details-beschlage-1/flugelmuttern.html Cordialement Pascal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, Pascal said: Oufti ! Quel boulot, c'est absolument magnifique ! Le travail d'un tres grand maitre du modelisme. Merci pour ce WIP et pour les superbes photos. PS : Si t'as besoin des pieces, comme par example : regarde une fois ici : https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/details-beschlage-1/flugelmuttern.html Cordialement Pascal Merci pour ces compliments Pascal, mais comme tu y vas !: " Grand Maître du modélisme"....certainement pas ! Codger, Catterhamnuts, Roymattblack,Oui, ! Moi, je m'estime un amateur éclairé, rien de plus, et c'est déjà bien ! Merci pour le lien, j'irai explorer cela à temps perdu Thanks for kind comments, Pascal, but, woaouhh, what did you say with "Great Master of Modelism"...I'm not ! Codger, CatterhamNuts, RoyMattBlack and numerous others here are... I think I'm only an enlightened amateur, and this is a lot ! Regards Thierry Edited October 7, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Begun the chain building...eagle eyes needed, and you get quickly a low back pain, so, i'll assemble it slowly, but surely, with long periods of rest between each phase One side of the needed length for one front brake cable has so been assembled....the harder remains to do: gently heat each plastic pin to melt it a little, in order to lock the links...without liquefying the whole set ! Then I should make the same thing on the other side of this piece of chain to achieve it, and manufacture another one, for the second font brake cable I'll do that tomorrow and on sunday.....that's enough for now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) Following of chain assembly.. Hard work, and by this time, my soldering iron was a bit too hot, and I got ruined a part of my quite achieved work....so, must re-build a part of it Finally, once the chain cutted out of the assembly jig, I've got a 16 links chain (16 are enough) Then, it has been necessary to carefully eliminate from each roller the little pins of plastic that remained after having cutted out the chain from the jig, because the links didn't fit well onto the sprocket I've taken the brass connector i'd made several days ago and a 0.6 mm brass rod Then fixed them together Then both ends of 0.6 mm brass rod have been bended with thin pliers, next cutted At last, but not least, try fitting of the set - the front end of the front brake cable - on the drum brake lever It looks rather good, if you compare with the prototype one A little break of 3 hours to assemble IKEA furnitures to refurbish (????Am not sure the verb is the appropriate one ???) Madam's laundry, and of course, it's now too late to build the other sections of the brake cable. Furthermore, the piece of chain must be weathered And a second one must be manufactured for the other side of the car Tomorrow will be another day ! Stay tuned if you like it...... Edited October 8, 2016 by CrazyCrank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 (edited) I just realized that, on the Pocher's Bugatti Kit, the braking system has been simplified, to the point of being unrealistic ! Indeed, on each side of the model car, there is only one cable for both the foot brake and the handbrake ! So, I've decided to be closer of the real: - Footbrake works on the four wheels simultaneously - Handbrake works only on rear wheels I'll make the too systems Edited October 9, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 (edited) Well, continue to build braking system I've used, for the long brake cable, not the white coton wire provided in the kit box, but a braided stainless steel cable, nylon coated, of 0.55 mm gauge, i.e 4.4 mm at 1:1 scale. That's a bit too thin, but I haven't better. This wire has been purchased at MotorModelCars.com Because of the close proximity of the chain, whose rollers are plastic made, and due to the fact that the steel cable is nylon coated, it has been impossible to sold the cables on their connectors...so, I've joined them using tow-component glue...Waiting the sets dry now. The next challenge: Determine the exact lenght of steel cable is needed for each braking cable (front and rear) in order the cables are tightened only what's necessary to make them straight, without beginning to pull the drum brake levels. I guess that it will be necessary to separate each cable in two sections, interleaving between them a rope tensioner, that I must scratch build. For that goal, I need 1.3 or 1.5 mm brass tube, 1 mm threaded rod, M1 brass nuts and a 1 mm thread tap...I've ordered this last bit today on a french modeling website, because I haven't yet anyone in my stash. A little diagram saying more than a long speach: That system would permit to cut the cables on an approximative length, and adjust them to the exact dimension So, you must wait a while to see next steps Meanwhile, am going to assemble the second piece of chain. Stay tuned if you like Edited October 9, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Very interesting Thierry, as usual top notch work. One question, why did you opt for a nylon coated cable ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) 38 minutes ago, sharknose156 said: Very interesting Thierry, as usual top notch work. One question, why did you opt for a nylon coated cable ? Hello Sam Because it's sounded interesting and appropriate when I've discovered this product on MMC website. Marvin Meit, the administrator and supplier of aftermarket Pocher parts recommended it to replace the poor quality cotton wire of the kit. In fact, I could use for the brake cables guitar strings (I've a lot) but, trying them, they don't slip well on pulleys, and are too springy. I could use too braided steel cable of 0.75-1.0 mm (so 6 /10 mm at 1:1 scale), but it will be not enough soft and springy You must know that the nylon coat il very very thin and quasi invisible. However, you see clearly the twists of this coated steel cable, ant that is what must be seen ! Any other suggestion to replace my steel coated cable ? Thierry PS: Thanks for you kind comment Edited October 10, 2016 by CrazyCrank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Theirry, you are engineering your model as thoroughly as Bugatti did his cars. You are addressing details as a restorer of the 1:1 car would. A very satisfactory project for you to accomplish and for us to view. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 53 minutes ago, Codger said: Theirry, you are engineering your model as thoroughly as Bugatti did his cars. You are addressing details as a restorer of the 1:1 car would. A very satisfactory project for you to accomplish and for us to view. My father was a good mechanics, who answered patiently all my questions, when he talked about his job, during lunch or dinner, and I was a very curious boy......my mother was a perfectionnist woman, so....I've inherited this qualities (that are too shortcomings on another way) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Incredible job (and, I have to say, a remarkable brake system by Bugatti). How did you make the thread on the spark plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said: Incredible job (and, I have to say, a remarkable brake system by Bugatti). How did you make the thread on the spark plug? @Roy, and @Codger, and others too, I'm going to disappear under this avalanche of lyrical compliments....I'm very touched...and will try to continue doing my best for my Bug' and for our eyes @Roy : The thread has been made on a 2 mm brass tube using a 2 mm die. How too step by step: Refer please to previous post (17 before) You must take a piece of tube, flatten it at one end (this part will be wasted), with pliers. Maintain the tube firmly with the pliers, and use your 2 mm die inserted in the die stock, turning it clockwise carefully. You got the thread on your tube. Just as simple as that ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Aha... where did you buy a thread die that small? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) I don't remember exactly, on eBay or Amazon Germany I think, but you can purchase them on several modelism websites. In France: Micro Modèle Website Conrad Selectronic Le Train Magique I'm sure you can find this tool in Holland If you have difficulties, I can help you to order on french sites I've just ordered yesterday on ebay from England thread taps M1, M1.5, M2 et M2.5, and I forgot the M1 die !!!! Edited October 10, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thank you for your clear answer. knowing you by now it was obviously the best choice available, just wanted to know the reasoning. Mny thanks . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now