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Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection


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Some progress in my work since this morning.

 

Have been very busy all the week with my job, and no time to build anything since wednesday.

 

I'm always working on the braking system.

Not begun the chain building because I wasn't able to decide precisely which length of chain to build without having built the portion of braking cable that hooks on the drum brake lever..

 

First, I've had to modify the kit lever, converting its ring in a hook:

 

30064114405_c1f7881f4d.jpg

 

Then build the end of the cable that hooks on this lever

 

Ingredients:

- brass tube of 1.33 mm diameter

- Used guitar string .7 mm diameter

- A soldering iron

- A hand drill and drill bits of 0.5, 0.8 et 1.0 mm

- Tweezers

- Strong magnifying glasses

- A lot of patience ans self-sacrifice

 

Steps:

- 1/ Flatten the end of your brass tube with tweezers, over 2-3 mm

- 2// Drill the flattened end with 0.5 drill bit then  0.8 then and finally 1.mm drill bit

- 3/  Sand this end to round it

- 4/ At 4 mm of the end of the drilled end, drill a 0.5 mm hole

 

You get this:

 

30064146855_cb7df346d4_n.jpg

 

5/ Cut the brass tube to 6 mm and sand the second end to get this:

 

29951353812_2030cbc856_q.jpg

 

6/ Take your brass tube and drill at one hand a 0.8 mm hole, crossing through the tube

7/ Cut 4 mm ot this brass tube

8/ Now tou have to worked pieces of brass tube, and it remains to join them with steel cable

9/ I've taken a short length of guitar string (sorry, RoymattBlack ....) and soldered it   inside the tubes, leaving apparent 4-5 mm of guitar string

 

And I'have got that:

 

30064138675_f47ee7fbce_m.jpg and, as I need two connectors: 30030065636_168f140670_m.jpg

 

After polishing

 

30064113075_a901861b2b_n.jpg

To have an idea of the beginning of this braking system:

 

29980962011_734483ac9c_m.jpg      29980963261_6075e56606_n.jpg

 

Each connector is 13.5 mm long

 

At the free (at the moment) end of the connector, will connect later a piece of chain

 

Connector in place hooked on the drum lever, on each side, of course, waiting its piece of chain

 

30031662086_06cc35de41_n.jpg

 

And now, i know how long my piece of chain must  be.....stay tuned :rolleyes:

Edited by CrazyCrank
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To have a rest after this interesting but hard  work (because it requested great attention and precision) and before beginning the chain building, I've placed one of the two firewall supports I have puchased at MotorModelCars.com.

Well, no rest, because, for that too, much fitting and tries, but it was worth the efforts:

29955330642_62c16c7b97_z.jpg 

29441881703_01805aab2c.jpg

29441174464_d679d752a5.jpg

29955330642_62c16c7b97_c.jpg

29955340692_1822f7c646_c.jpg

29955339472_f0700c8760_c.jpg


It would be easier for the left one, given that the dimensions for drilling the frame rail and cutting of the aluminium support have already been precisely taken..wait and see
 

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For a bit of fun, before building the pieces of chain for the braking system, as I've seen the pictures of a real Bugatti T50 that have on the firewall 8 spare sparkplugs attached on a stand, I've thought on how to scratch build Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. 1:8 rather realistic spark plugs, and, I've got, with brass rod 0.6 mm, brass tubes 1.3 and 2.0 mm, electrical copper wire of 0.2 mm, then sanding Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. , filing, CA gel, and white paint, this part:

Dimensions: 8.5 mm length, 2 mm width at the nut level



30047143701_77f65a8ab8_m.jpg

Scratching process later

 

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Scratching process of a rather realistic sparkplug at 1:8 scale

 

First, remember you need absolutely a sliding calliper (digital or not)

 

1/ Take a 2 mm brass tube

29509111413_5fac108148_n.jpg  30137821315_8a684b1e4c_n.jpg

 

2/ Make a thread on it with a 2 mm die on 2 mm length approximatively.

 

30137844635_0341cd8b78_n.jpg

 

3/ Cut 4 mm of the threaded brass tube

 

4/ Sand the non threaded hand to get 1.0-1.2 mm non threaded, you get this:

 

30103036876_d49a612d52_m.jpg   29509642924_fbc5ded6bc_n.jpg

 

 

5/ take a 1.3 mm brass tube, cut 2 cm

 

30053606181_12109f26ba_n.jpg

 

6/ Put it in your Dremels's chuck

 

7/ Turn it, while filing the free end on 4 mm length to get, if possible, a lighly conical shape

 

8/ turn it while filing the 4 following mm, to reduce the diameter to the inner diameter of the 2 mm brass tube, so 1.2 mm for me

 

9/ Stop the Dremel, take the tube and cut the 8 mm you have worked on, you get this

 

30053775161_020733901c_m.jpg

 

10/ Take a M1 brass nut, 2 mm large

 

11/ Enlarge its hole to 1.2 mm

 

12/ Thread the 1.2 brass worked tube, through the nut then through the 2 mm threaded 3.1 mm length brass tube, you get this:

 

29509623494_2506ccc57a_n.jpg   29509619344_40b5eafc0a_n.jpg   29509620374_3633abdb99_n.jpg

 

 

13/ Take a 0.6 mm brass rod, cut a 15 mm section

 

30137848145_5c8c52e31b_n.jpg

 

14/ Put on it CA gel over 10 mm on its center 

 

15/ thread the 0.6 mm brass rod through this ensemble, you get this:

 

30023467132_f958a9044f_n.jpg

 

16/ cut the 0.6 mm rod at the top of the sparkplug, keeping 0.5 mm, sand the end

 

17/ cut the 0.6 mm brass rod at the bottom of the sparkplug, keeping 0.5 mm, sand the end, you get this:

 

29509099463_ca65a2b0bb_n.jpg

 

18/ Cut a 0.2 mm copper electrical wire, 4 mm length, and bend one end, right angle, on 0.5 mm, you get this:

 

30023485162_eb52255d5c_n.jpg

 

29842400170_e09b06c2bb_n.jpg

 

19/ glue with CA gel the non-bended end of this copper wire, into the bottom of the sparkplug, making the bended end approaching in close proximity of the 0.6 mm brass rod, and you get this:

 

29509076603_c0ec8ed2c6_n.jpg

 

20/ paint the top of the sparkplug, on the 1.2 mm brass tube over the nut, in white, and you get finally, an acceptable false sparkplug at 1:8 scale, 8.5 mm long and 2 mm large

 

30053558301_d6441e7fa0_n.jpg

 

That's all guys......now, there is no excuse not to make rather realistic sparkplugs at 1:8 scale ! (sorry for the immodesty, but I'm happy, I'm happy with them, still 6 to make)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank
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12 minutes ago, Mpfiend said:

Very nice, I like the write up on the spark plugs, this will be very useful.

 

thank you

 

Regards

 

Keith.

 

You're welcome Keith, I'd dreamt of this build during a small nap yesterday, then slept on it, and today I've manufactured them.

The result looks good, in my opinion of course, and I wanted to share with my friends....Happy if you like it and use my methods ;)

 

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Oufti ! Quel boulot, c'est absolument magnifique ! Le travail d'un tres grand maitre du modelisme.

 

Merci pour ce WIP et pour les superbes photos.

 

PS : Si t'as besoin des pieces, comme par example :

 

fluegel_ad-11_vz_vorschau.jpg

 

regarde une fois ici : https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/details-beschlage-1/flugelmuttern.html

 

 

Cordialement

 

Pascal

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1 hour ago, Pascal said:

Oufti ! Quel boulot, c'est absolument magnifique ! Le travail d'un tres grand maitre du modelisme.

 

Merci pour ce WIP et pour les superbes photos.

 

PS : Si t'as besoin des pieces, comme par example :

 

fluegel_ad-11_vz_vorschau.jpg

 

regarde une fois ici : https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/details-beschlage-1/flugelmuttern.html

 

 

Cordialement

 

Pascal

 

Merci pour ces compliments Pascal, mais comme tu y vas !: " Grand Maître du modélisme"....certainement pas ! Codger, Catterhamnuts, Roymattblack,Oui, !

Moi, je m'estime un amateur éclairé, rien de plus, et c'est déjà bien !

Merci pour le lien, j'irai explorer cela à temps perdu

 

Thanks for kind comments, Pascal, but, woaouhh, what did you say with "Great Master of Modelism"...I'm not !

Codger, CatterhamNuts, RoyMattBlack and numerous others here are...

I think I'm only an enlightened amateur, and this is a lot !

 

Regards

 

Thierry

Edited by CrazyCrank
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Begun the chain building...eagle eyes needed, and you get quickly a low back pain, so, i'll assemble it slowly, but surely, with long periods of rest between each phase

 

30142724046_4da4c655a8.jpg

 

30062723402_e0a3c09f07_z.jpg

 

30177355645_ac396a3703.jpg

 

30062714072_4ca392b5c8.jpg

 

One side of the needed length for one front brake cable has so been assembled....the harder remains to do: gently heat each plastic pin to melt it a little, in order to lock the links...without liquefying the whole set !

Then I should make the same thing on the other side of this piece of chain to achieve it, and manufacture another one, for the second font brake cable

 

I'll do that tomorrow and on sunday.....that's enough for now :blink:

 

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Following of chain assembly..

 

Hard work, and by this time, my soldering iron was a bit too hot, and I got ruined a part of my quite achieved work....so, must re-build  a part of it :(

 

30156818486_4ae5af12cf.jpg   30106449441_a5a645745b.jpg

 

Finally, once the chain cutted out of the assembly jig, I've got a 16 links chain (16 are enough)

 

30156801686_ee357f91e7.jpg

 

Then, it has been necessary to carefully eliminate from each roller the little pins of plastic that remained after having cutted out the chain from the jig, because the links didn't fit well onto the sprocket

 

29895561630_8080e3429f.jpg   30076728012_bbc2fb490c.jpg

 

I've taken the  brass connector i'd made several days ago and a 0.6 mm brass rod

 

30191170735_bae153aa17.jpg   30191167295_6236698627.jpg

 

Then fixed them together

 

29898647280_172ca5260b.jpg

 

Then both ends of 0.6 mm brass rod have been bended with thin pliers, next cutted

 

30109816601_04a13e0237.jpg

 

At last, but not least, try fitting of the set - the front end of the front brake cable - on the drum brake lever

 

29562086694_1e0a194ca1.jpg   30156813066_1ca006bd17_z.jpg

 

It looks rather good, if you compare with the prototype one

 

30160587316_6daea7d473_z.jpg

 

A little break of 3 hours to assemble IKEA furnitures to refurbish (????Am not sure the verb is the appropriate one ???) Madam's laundry, and of course, it's now too late  to build the other sections of the brake cable.

Furthermore, the piece of chain must be weathered

And a second one must be manufactured for the other side of the car

 

Tomorrow will be another day !

 

Stay tuned if you like it......

 

Edited by CrazyCrank
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I just realized that, on the Pocher's Bugatti Kit, the braking system has been simplified, to the point of being unrealistic !

Indeed,  on each side of the model car, there is only one cable for both the foot brake and  the handbrake !

 

So, I've decided to be closer of the real:

- Footbrake works on the four wheels simultaneously

- Handbrake works only on rear wheels

 

I'll make the too systems

 

Edited by CrazyCrank
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Well, continue to build braking system

 

I've used, for the long brake cable, not the white coton wire provided in the kit box, but a braided stainless steel cable, nylon coated, of 0.55 mm gauge, i.e 4.4 mm at 1:1 scale.

That's a bit too thin, but I haven't better.

This wire has been purchased at MotorModelCars.com

 

30212756485_aa0a42f197_n.jpg

 

Because of the close proximity of the chain, whose rollers are plastic made, and due to the fact that the steel cable is nylon coated, it has been impossible to sold the cables on their connectors...so, I've joined them using tow-component glue...Waiting the sets dry now.

 

30127743771_29e21e33b3_n.jpg

 

29583424133_05a8292dda_n.jpg

 

30127745381_f22c87d4bd.jpg

 

The next challenge:

 

Determine the exact lenght of steel cable is needed for each braking cable (front and rear) in order the cables are tightened only what's necessary to make them straight, without beginning to pull the drum brake levels.

 

I guess that it will be necessary to separate each cable in two sections, interleaving between them a rope  tensioner, that I must scratch build.

 

For that goal, I need 1.3 or 1.5 mm brass tube, 1 mm threaded rod, M1 brass nuts and a 1 mm thread tap...I've ordered this last bit today on a french modeling website, because I haven't yet anyone in my stash.

 

A little diagram saying more than a long speach:

 

30179014306_15f81eaa73_c.jpg

 

That system would permit to cut the cables on an approximative length, and adjust them to  the exact dimension

 

So, you must wait a while to see next steps

 

Meanwhile, am going to assemble the second piece of chain.

 

Stay tuned if you like B)

Edited by CrazyCrank
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38 minutes ago, sharknose156 said:

Very interesting Thierry, as usual top notch work.

One question, why did you opt for a nylon coated cable ? 

 

Hello Sam

 

Because it's sounded interesting and appropriate when I've discovered this product on MMC website. Marvin Meit, the administrator and supplier of aftermarket Pocher parts recommended it to replace the poor quality cotton wire of the kit.

 

In fact, I could use for the brake cables guitar strings (I've a lot) but, trying them, they don't slip well on pulleys, and are too  springy.

 

I could use too braided steel cable of 0.75-1.0 mm (so  6 /10 mm at 1:1 scale), but it will be not enough soft and springy

 

You must know that the nylon coat il very very thin and quasi invisible.

However, you see clearly the twists of this coated steel cable, ant that is what must be seen !

 

Any other suggestion to replace my steel coated cable ?

 

Thierry

 

PS: Thanks for you kind comment

Edited by CrazyCrank
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Theirry, you are engineering your model as thoroughly as Bugatti did his cars. You are addressing details as a restorer of the 1:1 car would. A very satisfactory project for you to accomplish and for us to view.

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53 minutes ago, Codger said:

Theirry, you are engineering your model as thoroughly as Bugatti did his cars. You are addressing details as a restorer of the 1:1 car would. A very satisfactory project for you to accomplish and for us to view.

 

My father was a good mechanics, who answered patiently all my questions, when he talked about his job, during lunch or dinner, and I was a very curious boy......my mother was a perfectionnist woman, so....I've inherited this qualities  (that are too shortcomings on another way)

B)

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1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said:

Incredible job (and, I have to say, a remarkable brake system by Bugatti).

 

How did you make the thread on the spark plug?

 

@Roy, and @Codger, and others too, I'm going to disappear under this avalanche of lyrical compliments....I'm very touched...and will try to continue doing my best for my Bug' and for our eyes ^_^

 

@Roy :

 

The thread has been made on a 2 mm brass tube using a 2 mm die.

How too step by step: Refer please to previous post (17 before)

You must take a piece of tube, flatten it at one end (this part will be wasted), with pliers.

Maintain the tube firmly with the pliers, and use your 2 mm die inserted in the die stock, turning it clockwise carefully.

You got the thread on your tube.

Just as simple as that !

 

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I don't remember exactly, on eBay or Amazon Germany  I think, but you can purchase them on several modelism websites.

 

In France:

Micro Modèle Website

Conrad

Selectronic

Le Train Magique

 

I'm sure you can find this tool in Holland

If you have difficulties, I can help you to order on french sites

 

I've just ordered yesterday on ebay from England thread taps M1, M1.5, M2 et M2.5, and I forgot the M1 die !!!! :unsure:

 

 

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