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CrazyCrank

Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection

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First of all, I wish a happy new year to all members of Britmodellers.com

 

I've been busy, but have read all your comments and advices...

 

Since two weeks, I've thought about how to make my EB logo ?...engraving ?, stamping  with my punches (that are not really very close to the font ordinary used to draw this logo), photo-etching ?

Engraving supposes to buy a CNC system for my Proxxon milling machine....I'll certainly buy it in the future but actually, it costs, in Germany, 459 euros (GO.CNC.de)

Photo-etching supposes to buy a lot of tools, chemical products, practice a lot before reaching skills enough to get a good result....no time, and no desire to waste a lot of money, nor inhale toxic fumes !

 

And suddenly, I remembered that I'd bought on Ebay Germany some sets of photo-etched parts to replace those of my kit that were broken or lost....

And, forgotten in some bottom drawer, I found that:

 

27655370779_d6f5721fcf_c.jpg

 

And I've thought that I could use the photo-etched EB logos on the oval plates

The letters are 2,3 mm high, what is just enough, not to be ridiculous !

 

I've tried two methods:

 

First one, putting the photo-etched set on the milling machine, and drilling 0,6 mm holes following the relief of the logo, to get a 3D logo, then filing.

Not very easy and I've got the result below, not so bad, but frankly perfectible:

 

38554725885_6f0cc9cb8e_z.jpg

 

Second one, I cut off a square on the plate, including the EB logo, then, with photo-etch dedicated scissors, I cut off progressively the EB logo shape.

Then, I filed this part around the Logo, and I got my EB logo, but it remained metal between E and B branches, and it was impossible to eliminate it with  a drilling method to get a clean result.

So I've had the idea to stick the EB logo's visible face on a fingertips, and I've rubbed slowly and for a long time my finger on the abrasive surface of a ModelMotorCar's cardboard file, until the excessive metal under the logo disappear.

It took half an hour, checking regularly, to get my EB Logo:

 

38554332965_5455db45fe_z.jpg

 

Incidentaly, I've lost my fingerprints on the second and third right fingers :think:

 

Next steps:

 

The EB Logo will be stuck or soldered on a 6,1 mm diameter disk, that I'll put in the housing I've turned on the spare wheel locker nut

 

Stay tuned if you like and thank you for watching

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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10 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

Incidentaly, I've lost my fingerprints on the second and third right fingers :think:

Who needs those!

 

Looks good Thierry, you're on the right track if you ask me.

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2 minutes ago, Roy vd M. said:

Who needs those!

 

Looks good Thierry, you're on the right track if you ask me.

 

Thanks to you, @Roy vd M. and you @harveyb258, who gave me the idea :)

 

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Dear Thierry i have not been able to visit Brit sites regularly and follow your master work... am happy to be able to now and i find this incredibly impressive precision work you are achieving and in metal ... i think all adjectives have been used but i must say you are achieving mastery of the metal work at this scale, exceeded Pocher by far,  well done.  Happy New Year ! Sam  

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Thank you so much, Sam,for this kind comment,  and happy new year to you and your family

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Resurrection, after a 3-month silence...

 

Wasn't dead, but very busy, and tired after a bad flu (despite vaccination) and then a pneumonia !

I'd too a lot of work for curing my parents and my grand-daughter Emma

 

If that was not enough, I'm suffering from renal colics since Sunday.

However, I was able to sit at my bench and continue scratch building my new sparewheel's wing-nut.

 

Taper turning the second arm, and its ending sphere:

 

26205612437_b7c4553e55_c.jpg

 

40183358615_876fe6957b_c.jpg

 

40183357765_d30a17148d_c.jpg

 

And finally, after filing, polishing and separating this "arm", I got the 5 parts I need to build the wing-nut

 

27204249868_ebf06e72a7_c.jpg

 

Once soldered together, I'll get approximatively that:

 

27204249678_41b7b3a23c_c.jpg

 

And it will only remain to  nickel plate the nut, and "paint" black the bottom of the central disk, to ensure that the EB logo stand out clearly against the dark background.

 

Be patient and stay tuned il your like :)

 

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13 minutes ago, harveyb258 said:

One word, Thierry...SUPERB!!!:thumbsup:

 

Cheers, H

 

Very kind of you, Harvey....I've no word for your superlative work on your 1:12 Fiat :)

 

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Looking great, you have far more patcience than me.

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Dear Thierry , as it seems we were both sick in the last months . But it´s getting much better now and I´m sure , you will recover soon as well .

It´s spring  , you got a wonderful granddaughter and the future will be bright !  btw : great , convincing work !

Many greetings !   Hannes

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Hi chaps

This evening, first arm of my nut has been silver soldered, using jewelry's silver paste.

Why silver soldering ?

Because of the high temperature it requires, approximatively 900°C.

So, once the first arm welded, if I solder the second arm using low temperature soldering, the first arm will not unsolder....hum. theoretically :think: ....fingers crossed

 

As you can see, the crocodile clip of my second hand, that hold the parts during the soldering, left some marks on the central nut...I'll  fix this little Injury later, with sanding and polishing:

 

41118686902_1fe26cbe5e_z.jpg       41118686692_59aaeea0df_z.jpg

 

Stay tuned if you like, and thanks for watching :)

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Oouuuups :o

Second arm damaged while soldering :wonder:

I do not understand what happened:

 

40268134135_a11ed98159_z.jpg

 

I've to turn another one...this will be tomorrow

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Hi Thierry!

Sorry for you, but:

Both elements have to be soldered in same time anyway...
And one more a time, why silver solder?
900°C! This is the melting point of brass as you can see by yourself.
I use 145, 180 and 200° soft solder...

 

Dan. 

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14 minutes ago, PROPELLER said:

Hi Thierry!

Sorry for you, but:

Both elements have to be soldered in same time anyway...
And one more a time, why silver solder?
900°C! This is the melting point of brass as you can see by yourself.
I use 145, 180 and 200° soft solder...

 

Dan. 

 

Impossible for me to solder both at the same time, because the pin of the second arm was thinner than the hole of the nut, and bended the wrong way

I've silver soldered the first arm without any damage, as you can see on the pics above, probably my light was colder than 900°C

And then, I've intended to soft solder the second arm, regulating the flame's temperature : The low-temperature silver-brazing has melted, but without joining the two parts.

So I've taken the second arm, and, carefully eliminating the cooled melted solder with a file, I've seen the brass was corroded !

 

Furthermore, after reading your answer, I've just tried to melt the brass of this arm, using my Proxxon welding torch with a stronger flame, and I did not succeed....so, your explanation isn't the right one, I guess

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Finally !

 

After my burnt last nut's arm, I've waited some time before starting over a new one....and I think tonight that I should have waited more !

In fact, today, I wanted to mow the lawn, but the tractor's battery was down, so I didn't have better to do that sit down at my bench
And I've turned on the lathe 3 arms, wasting the first two, due to a lack of concentration.

 

Anyways, my second arm has been turned and filed and soldered on the nut

The, arms have been bended outward, and below is the result:

 

40588214385_feaed86df9_c.jpg

 

40588211915_8292228013_c.jpg

 

39672878560_47417596a3_c.jpg

 

Spheres at the end of the arms are far to perfect, but I will be happy with them after a lightly sanding

 

All that remain is to sold the central disk on this set, then to nickel plate the ensemble, and finally to stick the micro EB logo, and tint black the bottom of the disk in order to bring it to light....

 

Stay tuned if you like, and sorry for the slowness of my build :)

 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

Stay tuned if you like, and sorry for the slowness of my build :)

 

It's worth the wait!

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Thanks a lot Endeavor B)

 

Central disk soldered:

 

26611200567_8278d99b7e.jpg

 

And micro EB Logo lost on my wooden floor... today isn't a good day :think:

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Oh happy day :)

I just had the chance to find my micro EB logo on the floor of my workshop...B)

Edited by CrazyCrank

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10 hours ago, Endeavor said:

It's worth the wait!

 

I heartily concur!!!! Great work, as always, Thierry!!

 

Cheers, H

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