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CrazyCrank

Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection

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Very pretty part you made there. I like your choice of showing stuff that didn't work out, that's comforting for us mere mortals :) 

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Hi chaps 

Well..back home 10 days ago, and had no time to work on my Lady Bug, because a lot of work at my office.

During the following weeks, I'll try to work on her from time to time, particularly making my second front brake lever, and then the rear ones.

 

However, I took advantage of my free time during my - quite - four weeks of holidays in Canada, thinking about how converting my milling machine (a little Proxxon MF70) in a CNC milling machine.

And finally, I did succeed in getting a CNC working one, without the need to buy  an already-built solution as the "Go-CNC", and saving at least 250 euros.

 

Hereunder are pictures of my modified Proxxon,  and a (very bad) sample of what we can get with such a tool

 

42769517740_be5760cd84_z.jpg

 

43860891774_20b4ec52c2_z.jpg

 

Now, I'll be able to machine complex parts, with curves and circles or engraved letters, and to machine parts in several identical copies

And I've a head full of ideas...

Stay tuned if you like

 

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Just now, harveyb258 said:

I like very much indeed, Thierry!!

 

Thanks Harvey

Indeed, this transformation offers a new range of possibilities, and I'm very excited.

It remains to enhance the machine, making a ventilated-box to put the electronic cards in, and stowing spaghetti-cables in cable raceways...

 

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7 hours ago, sharknose156 said:

i didn't know you were such tech and IT savvy 👏

 

I've more than one string to my bow 😎

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Looks interesting, I started to build a slightly larger CNC machine and I have most of the parts to build it but my issue is the software to control it and more importantly developing the necessary skills to be able to do the 3D CAD drawing. I need to get the ideas from my head to the program and then to the machine. There's the machine control software and on a 3D printer there's the slicer software that converts the CAD drawing that plots each move of the printer head on the printer or a cutter head of the CNC machine. So, I will be following with even more interest than just this fabulous build. Good to have you back. I'm hoping to get back on the bench myself when the weather gets colder.

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Hi gentlemen

 

For those who are interested (Hello @larchiefeng ), I'm posting a topic about my recent job.

It's not modeling, but it will help to...

 

You now that I've converted my micro - milling machine Proxxon MF70 in a CNC one.

At the moment, I have motorized 3 axis:  X, Y, Z.

An Arduino drives actually 3 motor drivers A4988 implanted on a CNC shield.

My motors are NEMA 23, 24V, 1A each, and the minimal rotation angle is 1.8 degrees. 200 steps make 1 revolution, and move each axis of the milling machine of 1 mm.....So, the precision of this system is - theoretically of course - of 5 microns.

 

44148314964_a1b00d6cec_z.jpg

 

44148317744_1a70e0e3aa_z.jpg

 

 

My vectorial drawings are made with Inkscape, and are 2D or 2,5D, but I've a full licence for Fusion 360, and I've purchased on Ebay America a RINO rotary motorized gearbox...So, it remains to adapt on it a 3 or 4 jaws chuck, and learn how to drive the 4 axis with Mach 3, for instance.

At the moment, my drawings are converted in CAM projects by ESTLCAM V11. This software manages too the G-Code conversion and send it to the Arduino Uno control board.

 

When I've installed all the wiring, the power supply, USB cable etc, my workbench looked a bit messy, and it was impossible to use my CNC toy without cleaning it.

 

44818670102_b2ba611992_z.jpg

 

So, I've organized this merry mess, storing the wirings in corrugated tubing between motors and CNC shield.

I begun then to see my world more clearly !

 

Hum, in a way of speaking:

 

29932057637_ec86b20b18_c.jpg

 

44148318124_74be1a5297_z.jpg

 

 

So,  then,  I've started the construction of an electronic housing for the Arduino, CNC shield, various plugs (USB, power supply, wiring cable entries etc), and a fan.

I've planned to install an Emergency Stop button, on the top of the case.

I decided to make the box with 3mm MDF, because I had it in my stash, and hadn't black plexiglas (I would have preferred this material)
So, I drew up the plans of 6 faces/panels and for feet, with Inkscape, exported them as .dxf files.

The panels were cut with a Proxxon table circular saw, and then, all the apertures in each panel were cuted on my CNC milling machine, using my six dxf files via Estlcam.

It has been a real pleasure to mill, some 52 identical slots on front and side panels, perfectly regularly spaced, and some 66 5 mm diameter  round holes on the top and bottom faces, including the other cuts, rectangles or circles.

 

The case's dimensions are 60 mm tall  (without feet), 100 mm wide and 126 mm long.

 

Some panels :

 

44868158551_9d75ef114d_z.jpg

 

44818131132_b5411da910_z.jpg

 

29931206007_c85916e00c_z.jpg

 

44818670352_e7c8f61621_z.jpg

 

 

During assembly:

 

30995510878_e6e8581761_z.jpg

 

44818131702_f837532f62_z.jpg

 

44818670122_b69e154a8c_z.jpg

 

43056483980_1d4e61b5f1_z.jpg

 

 

Panel have received a grey filler (Alclad) coat, and the fan has been placed:

 

29931770747_61cf8dcb46_z.jpg

 

 

To prevent  insubordinate fingers to meet the fan, a grill has been installed  between the fan and the read panel. For the curious, I've used mosquito netting :)

 

43056484030_16931b838b_z.jpg

 

 

Following of the assembly:

 

29931770187_e2851f36f5_z.jpg

 

44868152791_e5db55998a_z.jpg

 

44818131442_0e4316cd11_z.jpg

 

30995510438_0dc2be20d6_z.jpg

 

44147750324_e58babd823_z.jpg

 

44147751084_37820755c5_z.jpg

 

 

How it will look when finished:

 

30995512158_bca84aaa18_z.jpg

 

44819765462_510a8ed674_z.jpg

 

 

I've made a try of engraving letters on a MDF plate with this CNC milling machine, and it goes well. These letters are 6 mm height, but it is possible to engrave on a metal plate tinier letters (I think 1.5 mm height, I'll make a try later):

 

44870254491_422ac68778_z.jpg

 

 

It remains a lot of hours to spend on this project:

 

- I'm waiting for final paint: Tamiya Green olive drab, that I'll use  for the final color (it looks like the Proxxon color), 2 or 3 coats

- Lettering yellow: "CNC Controller"

- Final coating with Alclad semi-gloss, 2 coats

- And all the final wiring for On/Off with green indicator light, Emergency stop, Fan etc

- Testing, and then install ballast weight under the case, if possible,

- Furthermore, I'm waiting for a zeroing touch plate that I ordered in China for less than nothing, Its wiring will take place into the tiny hole pin the left of USB plugging, on front panel.

 

Well, I've been very chatty this evening, thanks for watching, and stay tuned if you like  😉

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Looks like you have a good handle on things. I have a number of parts for mine but, it was more geared toward woodworking and is a larger set up if built. Using the Proxon milling machine is a good start because you have a good head and sliding table to work with and add the motors on. It's pretty handy that you can just plug a CNC shield on top of an Arduino board and then have your control module. I see that you mention a fourth axis; are you planning on adding the tilt to the head so that you can mill at an angle? Will the CNC shield support a fourth axis or is it just a 3 axis shield? All good stuff here and just goes to show that when you start building models at this level how you start to branch out into other disciplines to achieve another level of realism. I have an old Unimat lathe that can be set up as a mill with an attachment but, I can't see doing anything like this with that machine. It would require too much modification and if I ever get to that point I would have to sell the Unimat and get something like this. However, for now, I will just enjoy watching you convert yours and enjoy the results

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Thanks for sharing that CC. May be enough to prompt me to have a go. (don't hold your breath though). One question, are the motor mounts off the shelf or have you had to make them to fit your installation?

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Hi Chaps

 

To @larchiefeng : I'm going to add a 4th axis, which will be placed, if necessary, on the X of the crossing table, and, hopefully, it will be able to rotate the piece I'm working on, in order to mill every face I want

No matter of milling at an angle
The CNC shield has been planned to support 4 stepper controller, the 4th axis being named A Axis by convention.

 

To @NickD : the answer is in the photos. I've bought a ready-to-install set which included the motors, the Arduino, The CNC Shield, the wiring and the routing plates with all the hardware to fix it.

 

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Well my friends...

 

I've done several tries to mill using the CNC controller, and the least one can say is that''s not a simple job to master this beast.

I'm still stammering.

 

Hereunder the  best result I've got on a MDF test-plate, with an engraving bit, whose point was 0.1 mm diameter when I purchased it, but 0.3 actually (it becomes worn when milling on brass)

The Logo Bugatti EB is 4.5 x 3.5 mm in a 6.5 mm disk.

Depth of the milling pass: 0.1 mm

The result seems to to be fairly encouraging !

 

Next step: when I'll be perfectly happy with the result, engraving  EB Logo on brass plates, with a new bit 0.1 mm , of a better quality and harder metal or tungsten carbide (the bits I've purchased are not provided for a CNC machine)

 

44020430585_6976ae1e2f_b.jpg

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching 😉

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1 hour ago, CrazyCrank said:

I've bought a ready-to-install set

Thanks for the clarification. That must make it a relatively straightforward upgrade path if it is properly engineered.

 

Thanks again for sharing.


Regards


Nick

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Judging by the work on the emblem, it appears that you have a handle on the CAD software. It's just a matter of getting the proper mills that small that will stand up to the process especially if they're 1mm in diameter. I can just look a t 1mm drill bit the wrong way and it breaks. Admittedly, they are on the cheap side but, even expensive 1mm bits are going to break eventually. My biggest problem is the CAD software and I think that's what's holding me back from finishing my CNC and using my 3D printer more. So, for now I will just have to live vicariously through you and your CNC, lol :rofl:

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Snif 😪...I've burnt accidentally (short circuit when closing the case ?) my Arduino board AND my CNC shield AND the 3 stepper controllers 😫

So I've to wait for the delivery of the new ones (3 to 5 busy days) before beginning to work with my toy...so sad

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CNC electronic Repaired and Z-zero probe added.

 

The CNC box has been assembled, painted (same green than the Proton tools), wired etc, and the whole CNC-mill set is ready to work.

 

45033677832_25b97cefc4_z.jpg  44361568544_6b433da552_z.jpg

 

44361568484_de65b0f371_z.jpg  30144898097_f49d3f06fd_z.jpg

 

31208786848_f344a425f5_c.jpg

 

Furthermore, thinking about adding a 4th rotary axis, I've purchased on Ebay USA a second-hand Rinomechanical (Old US brand renamed Ondrives) gearbox for 138 euro (delivery charges included, with a NEMA 23 stepper motor in addition) instead of 576, price for new on their British online shop, excluding postage.

It is in perfect state, mechanically and aesthetically:

 

45081886441_95d9783938_z.jpg 45081886391_5dfe0a70f3_z.jpg


45033518042_fd67463d0e_z.jpg 

 

 

I've removed the motor which is à 5V 2,8A one because my CNC board is 24V powered and cannot deliver more than 4A; my 3 motors are 1A each, so I'd to find a 24V 1A stepper motor to drive the gearbox...and I've found today in a British store the same untraceable motor than the 3 I've already, for a ridiculous price

I'm planning to machine myself the coupling bits to join gearbox and stepper motor, and making too a bracket to attach the 4th axis on the crossing table of the milling machine.

 

Tests phase will begin soon.

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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I like very much, Thierry. I have to admit to a helluva lot of jealousy to your set-up and know-how...hat's off, mate.

I know for a fact, though...I'd never finish another project again, if I had one!:lol:

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Well geniuses should not be allowed on here, how can us mere mortals hope to keep up.

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Good evening gentlemen...

 

I'm not dead but have been very busy, and monopolized by my grand-daughter Emma all past week-ends..

But I go on thinking and planning...

 

Tonight, I've decided to use my CNC miller to machine another brake lever.

 

I had already drawn the part with Inkscape, with two views, the first one frontal, and the second one lateral.

The lever will be 16 mm tall, 2.2 mm thick, and 3.5 mm wide.

It'll have 3 holes: the bigger 2.4 mm at bottom lateral side, the second one 1 mm at top of lateral side and the last 0.7 mm at the bottom of the front side. This last one will be threaded M1

 

To mill this lever, I've used a 6 mm squared brass bar.

 

The drawings:

 

44433963065_1d9acc7637_z.jpg

 

Then, with ESTLCAM software, I've programmed the paths for the milling process, parting in in two operations, the first one on the side view (bottom one of the following picture), the second on the front view (the top one )

 

44433962545_e04a4ab4bf_z.jpg

 

Milling operations, photos speak for themselves:

 

31471692478_e1ee098860_z.jpg   30407281347_e13885c011_z.jpg

 

31471691908_9fac5ec690_z.jpg   31471692438_265e1ba5d0_z.jpg

 

After rotating 90° the brass bar in the miller vise:

 

45346413361_8d96399599_z.jpg

 

And after the second milling process, I got this first draft:

 

44623320094_4a8ab3413b_z.jpg

 

After filing, and before final polishing, I've got this part - You could see that angles have been rounded :

 

30408393807_de6be456cf_z.jpg  31472855108_f01ca3b567_z.jpg

 

And after having threaded M1 the frontal bottom hole, put a M1 bolt, a M1 washer and a M1 nut, I got this:

 

45347569261_6a59477f7f_z.jpg  30408500107_b9366e1877_z.jpg

 

45347733381_f61f5738c5_z.jpg  44434401365_51e59a5c59_z.jpg

 

45347752001_761c4c4bac_c.jpg

 

It remains a lot of job:

 

- Separating the part from the brass bar

- Put the part on the miller, to finish the rounded bottom

- Open the  top eye without breaking it (if it occurred, I would have to redo all this work)

- Polish the part before nickel plating

- and machine a second identical lever for the front brakes

- not to mention the drawing and milling of the rear brake levels

 

What I can say is that it's a really funny and pleasant job to use CAM progs and a CNC miller to machine such tiny parts, and it was worth to modify my little miller in a little CNC one (time and money)

 

Stay tuned il you like and thanks for watching 😎

 

 

 

 

Edited by CrazyCrank

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Great work as always, Thierry.

I can foresee many thousands of hours of "fun" spent with your new toy. Enjoy.....'cos WE are!!!!:D

 

Cheers, H

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Amazing skills. I am so envious ( although even with the skills i would lack the patience)

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Thank you so much, guys, for your kind words.

@kpnuts, you havn't to be envious, because you're able to produce as good  job than me, imho :)

 

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Simply beautiful work! Although you have chosen a different path to milling than I (old-fashioned as I am in certain aspects), my interest in these methods is no less and I'll be joyfully following your further progress. The first results are amazing. 

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