sharknose156 Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 (edited) Arni "I want to run off with that engine and go to Gretna Green!" Gretna Green the village or the famous "bar" in Dusseldorf ? Edited August 31, 2016 by sharknose156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Given that you were insisting.... The firewall's carrier side has been given too a facelift ! "Pourquoi faire simple ...." According to my reference photos of the prototypes, I’ve added some parts 1/ This one, of which I don’t know name nor function, located on the left of steering shaft, that seems to be an electrical device It’s been scratch-built from styrene rod, alu sheet, two brass tubes and electrical wire, under magnifying glasses, and with an helpfull liter of Coca-Cola ! It is connected , on the ref. photos, to a fuse box (in my opinion), on the bottom left of the firewall. 2/ The fuse box (or any other electrical apparatus..but I think it’s a fuse box) It has been scratch-built from styrene sheet, copper wire (0.4 mm diameter), M1brass bolt, yellow paint then clear red paint from Tamiya, decals and a lot of patience… From this fuse-box run several electrical cables, which are depicted, but not connected, because, of course, nobody can affirm what are their pathway and function ! Later, the fuse box has been moved upward, because its previous location was wrong : it would have been too often hit by the front passenger's shoes !! 3/ All the visible part of the firewall, on this carrier side, has been plated with a needed shaped aluminium sheet., as you can see on the last above picture. 4/ The screws that hold the plastic part surrounding the steering shaft hole, will be replaced later by brass bolts. 5/ I'll explain later what are these two cables that cross the fiewall, on the right of the fuse box. 6/ The rubber floor mat which is crossed by the 3 pedals, is, in my kit, very uggly and distorted So, I planed to replace it...and I'm on a phase of trials with a new one Actually, i'm a this point of my work and thoughts.... 1/ On the prototype cars, there is NOT rubber floor mat ! 2/ Studying the ref. photos, I noticed that it was an aluminium (or any metal) plate, bolted on the firewall, and lengthwise and crosswide corrugated, in order to make it non-slip mat... 3// I searched on Internet (Rougié & Plé, french creative hobbies website, dedicated particularly to architecture students) a material, which, at 1/8 scale, could closely seem to that real mat...and I found this one. This material imitates perfectly, in my opinion, the pattern of an non-slip surface.... I prepared a styrene-sheet-made template, that I adjusted to the exact shape to form. Then, I prepared a plate of standard alu sheet, covering bottom side of this "master". Next, I prepared a plate of the corrugated alu sheet, longer and larger enough to permit covering both sides of the master. I shaped it onto the master, both sides, drillled and shaped the holes for the 3 pedals, and then glued the 3 parts of the mat: the flat alu master and the corrugated covering, sandwhiching the styrene master... So, I obtained a malleable but solid mat that only needed some sanding to fit right on the floor. Finally, I made a little addition on this "floor matt": I put on the periphery of the 3 pedal's passage holes, a "bezel", an aluminium cover profile, which give a pleasant decorative finish. And now, I must wait and think before gluing the mat on the firewall's floor and to bolt it (4 bolts....sittings prepared) In effect, when i'll install the carpetted floor of the carrier, theoretically, if I follow the kit's instructions, the front of the carpetted floor must be put below the floor mat of the firewall. That would be easy if i used the rubber mat, which is very malleable and can be bended...but with this semi-rigid alu floor mat, after having conducted tries, it seems to be more difficult...so, I'll solve this problem later...must sleep on it ! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Very nice detail work Thierry. Your photo's and explanations will be very useful to anyone wanting to detail this tricky and hard to find kit. Best Regards Keith. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 Thank you, Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Incredible work! Your ability to scratch-make little parts is quite amazing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 Incredible work! Your ability to scratch-make little parts is quite amazing! Very kind of you, many thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzulscha Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 This is coming along quite nicely. I really like the engine turned metal and that firewall is gorgeous! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Since I introduced on this forum, I've not,only worked on the firewall, but also on the steering system... First, refering to the prototypes photos, I added a "lever" on the steering gearbox I don't know what is its usefullness. It seems to be, rather than a lever, a mobile clip which prevents the gearbox cap to get away ??? I've scratch-built it with thin brass tube, M1 brass bolt and alu sheet, then painted it Alu Then, always according to the reference photow, I decided to modify the steering control arm, that is not very rewarding for this superb model car : to get this: Needed: A big brass washer, alu sheet, 6 M1 brass bolts, Tamiya Putty or Milliput, as you want, sanding files, Alclad Chrome paint, a soldering iron and soldering wire pic First: I soldered the large brass washer over the "cubic" head of the steering arm, which is hinged on the steering shaft...The washer was soldered on the outer face of the "cubic head", and not yet hiding the hole of the shaft. Second: I sanded the brass washer to obtain a diameter that was approximatively the diagonal of the squared face of the cubic head Third: I glued a small piece of alu sheet on the washer, and sanded it at the same dimensions. The hole for the steering shaft was masked ! Fourth: I glued 6 heads of sacrified M1 brass bolts on this ensemble Fifth: I filled the space between the brass washer and the "cubic head' of steering arm, at its back, on the left and the right, with several successives layers of Tamiya Putty, for rounding the rigth angles between the washer and the cubic head... Sixth: after a long dry and carefull sanding, I painted the whole system with Alclad Chrome It's not totally achieved ! the illusion is Ok from front view, but very bad from side or upper view. Initially, i wanted to get a cylinder which includes the "cubic head" I could have done better, certainly should I...too late now, unless my perfection devil catch me up ! On the articulation between the steering control arm, and the steering contrrol rod, i've replaced the M2 Screw and nut, by brass M1.6 bolt and nut. Edited September 22, 2016 by CrazyCrank disappeared pictures 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Listen Thierry, The work is magnificent. Remember this important fact; what you can see on the workbenck is seldom if ever seen as clearly and from all angles when in place in the car. This goes for detail, paint, anything. Sure we all strive to make each part and subassembly a perfect piece of its own. But do not denigrate yourself if less that 1:1 perfection is achieved. I'm sure everyone here is full of envy of your skill and ethic to go the last mile for accuracy and detail. I know I am. My hat's off to you... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I agree Codger! And these blasted cell phone cameras and SLR's are getting to be so good, that we tend to focus so very closely to the minute details! In reality, the only way to get a similar perspective is to plop out an eyeball and put it in the front seat of this baby and check out the scenery.... Perhaps Mr. Feldman in your avatar had this talent D. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) Listen Thierry, The work is magnificent. Remember this important fact; what you can see on the workbenck is seldom if ever seen as clearly and from all angles when in place in the car. This goes for detail, paint, anything. Sure we all strive to make each part and subassembly a perfect piece of its own. But do not denigrate yourself if less that 1:1 perfection is achieved. I'm sure everyone here is full of envy of your skill and ethic to go the last mile for accuracy and detail. I know I am. My hat's off to you... You're certainly right, Codger... In french, we often say: "le mieux est l'ennemi du bien", what you say in english: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" Edited September 2, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Lots of stunning improvements here! The control arm looks much better than stock. I am curious if you have any further thoughts on the floor mat. As you pointed out the carpeted plastic cabin floor has a lip at the front that slides under the rubber mat (if built out of the box). It also prevents easily attaching the body to the floor. You are supposed to bolt the floor to the chassis and then the body to the floor with some very hard to reach bolts. I was thinking about sawing off the lip and gluing it to the firewall/mat so the body can be easily dropped on in one piece. My worry is dealing with that gap that creates. Rich 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Lots of stunning improvements here! The control arm looks much better than stock. I am curious if you have any further thoughts on the floor mat. As you pointed out the carpeted plastic cabin floor has a lip at the front that slides under the rubber mat (if built out of the box). It also prevents easily attaching the body to the floor. You are supposed to bolt the floor to the chassis and then the body to the floor with some very hard to reach bolts. I was thinking about sawing off the lip and gluing it to the firewall/mat so the body can be easily dropped on in one piece. My worry is dealing with that gap that creates. Rich I' m going to make some tries this week-end, and then, i'll think about this problem... A solution is to glue the new alu floor mat on the firewall AFTER having bolted the carrier floor on the chassis, eventually adding a styrene sheet between firewall and floor mat, to compense the difference of thickness. I dont know if I'm clear...if not, I'll make a diagram. Other solution: fold the alu floor mat lengthwise, to get an angle permitting, simultaneously to glue the anterior part of the floor on the firewall, and to slide the carrier floor under the floor mat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Am at the airport flying back home and will study your pics in details on the plane. Stunning work as usual. Great working solution on solving the issue of the firewall 'matt'. what metal paints are you using please ? Thanks a mil. for taking the time and effort of posting i such details. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 Am at the airport flying back home and will study your pics in details on the plane. Stunning work as usual. Great working solution on solving the issue of the firewall 'matt'. what metal paints are you using please ? Thanks a mil. for taking the time and effort of posting i such details. Thanks for the kind comment, Sharknose My metal paints are Alclad: Alu, Mat Alu mat, Semi mat Alu, White Alu, Polished Alu, Steel, Chrome, Dark Alu and Tamiya Chrome Silver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 First try of the night for my new floor mat I've bolted firewall and carrier carpetted floor on the chassis Then, presented the alu floor mat on the firewall floor..there was an issue, so...I've modified the inclination angle of the pedals and adjusted the 3 holes for the pedals and the bezels Then presented once more the alu floor mat on the firewall floor....and all seems OK. I should add a 1 mm styrene sheet between the firewall floor and the alu floor mat, to compense the level difference, in order the alu floor stands firmly and enable glueing it. Once glued, the alu floor will be in close contact with the carpetted floor...what you cannot see on the next photo, of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) Fifteen days ago, I've made an addition tho my car: I've installed some electrical cables, according to the reference photos you can find on Paul Koo's DVD and Scalemotocars.com ("http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/563"). I needed to call on my overflowing imagination to understand what I can do with them, And finally I decided, rightly or wrongly that the two red power cables that you can see coming out the electric starter are: - first: the one which comes from the ignition switch on the dash - second: the one which comes from the battery (I'll install a battery replica later, under the passenger front seat) And, concerning the black power cable you can see coming out the dynamo: - It goes to the battery (via a regulator, not represented yet on my pictures) to charge it. At last, there's another black cable which join the future battery with all electrical accessories and magneto in front of the car (firewall sector). All cables are made of fine electrical cord of 1.4 mm diameter, which is an acceptable size for 1/8 scale, considering these are not really cables, but outer rubber sheath for the electrical cords. All these cables are fastened on the chassis or joined together with thin ribbons (1 mm) of electrical black rubber tape...several should be replaced because they don't glue.. I think it's possible that exist errors in this electrical diagram, because I'm an ignorant in electric functionning of a car....If somebody can and want correct my delirium, I'll be happy to modify my work. Edited September 3, 2016 by CrazyCrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) A few hours later, after having mounted temporarilly the steering system on the chassis and trying to turn the steering wheel, I've encountered an issue: The steering wheel had no effect on the steering shaft, while turning it ! However, when turning the steering shaft manualy, the mecanism worked perfectly and the wheels turned. I supposed the "nipples" on the brass steering shaft , which prevent steering wheel to turn on empty, were eroded and didn't grip the plastic of the steering wheel...and I was right ! I must fix that...so, I'd an idea... I took my soldering iron, soldering silver wire, and did this: Then took files and did that (two nipples) on the drops of solder: Then, with a needle file, I made two notches in the steering hole A moment later: And now, when I turn the steering wheel, wheels turn Edited September 2, 2016 by CrazyCrank 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Hello happy modellers Since the last week-end, some progress in my work : The firewall is now fitted on the frame. The electric cords that come from the battery and the starter has been temporarily installed The copper lubrication lines that run from the firewall to the engine have been installed too (not an easy job, because see nothing, and no room to work) The linkage that join the firewall (up right) to the distributor has been placed, not functionnal, but the mechanism is simulated The copper lubrication line that run from the bottle up and right of the firewall, and goes behind the supercharger is installed too. It's made from brass tubes, copper rod, M1 brass nuts and CA gel First I've made a template with thin copper rod, and then shaped the final piece with thicker copper rod The line is made of two sections, that join behind the steering box On the last picture, you can also glimpse the added fuel copper line, coming from the frame right rail, connected on the fuel dispatcher of the carburetors Better view on next pictures Next addition the missing linkage of the accelerator pedal with supercharger and carburetors, entirely functionnal....building step by step, photos and a short video To see it, stay tuned ! Thanks for looking and constructive criticism 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilm Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Simply incredible.............................Stunning modelling. WOW!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Simply incredible.............................Stunning modelling. WOW!!! Very kind of you, Neilm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Today, I post a new enhancement: the building of the accelerator added linkage. It was entirely scratchbuilt from brass rod, bras tube, M1 brass bolts, washers and nuts. All the micro-parts has been slowly adjusted, try after try, in order to get for each one: the right size, the right fit, the right orientation, so that the additionnal linkage would be functional. The brass parts have not been soldered, but glued with CA gel (soldering would have been executed, parts at their place on the engine, and of course, it was impossible without risking to burn all. Moreover, it would have been very difficult to sand the soldered parts, once definitely mounted) The added linkage doen't existe in the kit. Paul Koo's DVD don' t refer to this system, wich of course exist on the prototype car. I must thank some modellers who post on several other websites the resuslt of their work: they offer to me an inspiration. So, I've studied the reference photos, searched on the Internet, in order to be the closest as possible of the reality in my "production". Let's go: To make a connector, you can use a brass tube 1.5 mm outer and 0.8 inner diameter. Press the free end with pliers over a lenght of 2.5-3 mm. Drill this flattened end exactly on its center with a 1 mm drill, and then cut the tube to approximatively 5 mm long. Trim and sand to get an oval shape... I made 4 connectors, what needed for the two linkages. Installing connector on the levers: On the control levers of supercharger and carburetors, i'd put a pin, made of 1 mm brass rod. You must thread the hole of the connector on this pin, then place on the set a small brass washer, and then lock the assembly with a M1 brass nut. Finally, secure the mounting with a micro-drop of CA gel and let dry. Normally, the connector can move on its shaft (the brass pin). When all's OK, you can cut the excess length of the pin Next, the most difficult step of this building hab been to mesure and cut correctly the appropriate length of brass rod needed to form each linkage...try and try, and try again...once done, glue a connector on one of the brass linkages Install this connector on the kit's plated linkage, and glue the other end on the previous connector (the one installed on lever of supercharger/carburetor) Once installed the two linkages, all that remains to do is attaching the two connectors on the kit linkage, using M1 brass bolt, brass washers, and brass M1 nut, tighting the nut enough, but not too much, as the system can move freely when pressing the accelerator pedal. Secure the nuts using threadlock. Last but not least, here is a short video of this functional linkage As you'll can see, the assembly is working, well for the supercharger, not quite as well as expected for the carburetors. I' ll do not try to fix that, can live with ! Edited September 20, 2016 by CrazyCrank 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) What great clean precision work. Also, thanks for the video, and for taking such time to explain. Important for me a Pocherignoramus. it seems to be a proper Pocher builder, one needs to be one hell of an experienced scratch builder !! hence all the fun i suppose. Was the movement of the pedal and connectors already in the original Pocher build or was adding the accelerator linkage to make it move your own enhancement ? in any case superbuild, i hope you publish something ! Much techniques, tip and inspirations to learn from. Many thanks T. Edited September 4, 2016 by sharknose156 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) On 04/09/2016 at 4:30 AM, sharknose156 said: What great clean precision work. Also, thanks for the video, and for taking such time to explain. Important for me a Pocherignoramus. it seems to be a proper Pocher builder, one needs to be one hell of an experienced scratch builder !! hence all the fun i suppose. Was the movement of the pedal and connectors already in the original Pocher build or was adding the accelerator linkage to make it move your own enhancement ? in any case superbuild, i hope you publish something ! Much techniques, tip and inspirations to learn from. Many thanks T. Hi Sharknose In the original build of this kit, there's only a functional accelerator pedal that acts on a vague linkage, retained by a spring which allows the elastic return of the pedal. Paull Koo's DVD shows how to simulate the acceleration linkage on the supercharger and carburetors, but not the linkage which allows to make them working, while depressing the accelerator pedal. That's this one I've added, and described in my post.. So this movement is my own enhancement. As far as I know, there is one modeller who added this linkage on his Bug, but I think he hasn't made it functional. In all modesty, I'm thinking I'm the only one, at the moment, who produced that. I've to recognize that I'm quite proud of it.... Thank you for the encouragement. PS: i'm not an experienced scratchbuilder..I've eyes, tools, some patience, and I take time to mull over ideas, and overall I try to benefit of other builder works. Edited September 22, 2016 by CrazyCrank Revision 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Well...for someone who is not an experienced 'scratch builder'....I would say that is an amazing piece of work....absolutely first class. Regards Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now