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B-45 Tornado -- Never Made Mach 2 But Mach2 Made It


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

Back again for a brief visit. I have finally finished all my outside and construction chores, and am hopeful of being able to devote more time to this build, as well as a few or less complicated ones that I'm eager to get started. Think I'll take a brief break from the long-term ones for a while.

 

But, to continue, I don't much like the seats included with the kit. They don't seem to reflect either the ones shown in some of the photos on the internet, nor the (possibly earlier) seats depicted in the B-45A flight manual. So, I looked around for something a little closer to modify. I finally found that the seats in the  True Details @72452 F-94 Starfire Cockpit Detail Set (for the Emhar kit) were just the ticket.

 

I had read a tip somewhere else in the forum that this detail set was good generically for a 50's U.S. cockpit, when all else failed. It was great advice, and I'm sorry that I don't remember who posted it, to give due credit. In any event, they were going for about $4.00 on E-bay, so I grabbed a couple. (pity I had already built the Emhar kit, before this detail set came out).

 

Anyway, I found that by taking those F-94 seat, and narrowing the seat back on either side of the headrest, then sawing off the headrest, shortening it a little, flipping it 90 degrees and reshaping. I had a reasonable facsimile, without a whole lot of work.

 

B45107-vi.jpg

 

Everything went well on the first seat, but on the second, the headrest area exploded, as I was trying to saw it off, so I had to do a little scratch building anyway, for the second seat., creating a new headrest area fro plastic card. (This part is tack-glued crooked in the following photo -- hope I remember to fix that before painting. Also found that the co=pilot's seat would not fit if I left the seat ejection stirrups in place, so I sawed then off -- front office fit fine. Lastly, I had to add some wire handles, and will later add ejection triggers. Note that the wire handles are oversize, but at scale size, I don't think they can be seen thru the heavily-panel cockpit glazing. Also, if they're too big the seats won't fit because of interference. Anyway, after they're all pinted up in black, probably none of this will matter.

 

B45108-vi.jpgB45109-vi.jpg

 

Next, I found that the horizontal stabilizers in the kit were molded so that the top halves were rather flat, while the bottom side had some airfoil. They were supposed to be the symmetrical, top and bottom, but they're not. By the way, let me mention here that the wings are pretty much the same, but the amount of work to fix that problem makes the game not worth the candle as it were, and I chose to ignore it. Other builders have mentioned this in some posts, but no one else has stuck their head in that noose either!

 

To improve the appearance, I swapped the tops and the bottoms around side to side so that the airfoil would be on top. The kit was moulded to fit properly the other way around, so I had to create an 11-degree template to set the correct tail plane dihedral, then while holding the upper and lower halve together with a clothespin to allow in and out movement, I was able find where I had to glue them together to give me about the correct angle at the fuse meeting point. This area is NOT a 90-degree angle, so I had to sort of reverse what the kit parts were made to do. This harder to describe than to do, and if you build this model, you will see this problem for yourselves, and hopefully, this way will be the fix. We shall see.

 

B45110-vi.jpg

 

Next, while trying to fit the early B-45A twin 50 style rear gun compartment glazing, I found a couple of small problems, the first being that the fuse halves are going to have to be gently sanded, to reduce their size ti fit the glazing area, in the areas shown by the arrows in the next photo. Also, I had some fore-and-aft clearances, which I will attempt to fix by adding the 10 thou card shims shown as "A" below. When dry, they will be trimmed and sanded to fit. The goal here is to achieve the best possible fit before gluing, which hopefully will reduce filling and sanding time and destruction -- and just generally make my life easier.

 

At this point, let me remind the newer modelers that this checking should ALWAYS be done before painting, and often before gluing the parts, for EVERYTHING that you plan on adding to the plane later.

Fit first, and save hours of correction!

 

B45111-vi.jpg.

 

This certainly applies to the nose and canopy glazing, shown here with strips of Tamiya masking tape applied. I cut the strips on a glass surface, using a new #11 blade. I wil then later apply either Bare Metal Foil or Parafilm "M" over the tape, and then trim around all the tape lines, leaving the panels masked when the tapes are removed.

 

One major problem with these parts in the kit -- the lines are on the underside (which is one reason I added the masking tape strips), AND, THEY ARE CROOKED. That means, they are different distances, from side to side, on the bombardier's glazing at least. I used regular old mechanical dividers as I added each strip, to make sure to keep My new lines straight as possible. The right rear os the bombardier's glazing is shorter on the right side than the left. My plan is to correct  the glass panel lines, and then fill the glazing to fuse line really smoothly, and cover everything with paint so that no one will ever know. We'll see.

 

B45112-vi.jpg

 

Well, gotta go have din-din. TTFN.

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

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Hi all,

 

Back again with more on the fuse.The next photo shows where the rear fuse must be slightly tapered to meet up with the rear turret glazing, including the newly-added shim strips:

 

B45113-vi.jpgB45114-vi.jpg

 

While I'm in this area, please refer to the drawing of the tail gunner's compartment bulkhead, which also contains the compartment door. If you model this a/c and don't add a gunner figure, don't model the seat in a folded-down position. The door won't open if the seat is down, apparently.

 

B45114a-vi.jpg

 

Next up, making provisions to mount the after hatch entry door, to be added at final assembly later. The door/ladder combo looks like this:

 

B45114b-vi.jpgB45115-vi.jpg

 

I joined the two halves of the hatch that had been sawn free of the fuse halves, earlier. I then added a layer of fine Milliput to fill the inner surface of the door, to make it flat. I then attempted to drill two holes in the upper edge to mount the wires shown. The Milliput cracked, and I had to re-enforce the Milliput with CA. After that dried, I spread a thin layer of 15-minute epoxie over the inner face of the hatch , to which I then stuck on two bent-up pieces of .005" brass shim stock to represent the steps. This also fortuitously sealed the Milliput for me, for later painting purposes. The additional swing-down step and side bars will be added later.

 

Next, a sandwich of two pieces of 30 thou card stock were shaped and glued to one fuse half, at the front edge of the door opening. The added part had two holes drilled into it for the hatch mounting wires. The holes were enlarged as needed to allow the hatch wires to fit in easily with the two fuse halves held together. If it don't fit now, it'll be a real bear later! The test fit looks like this:

 

B45116-vi.jpg

 

Next a piece was added alongside the hatch opening on either fuse half. These pieces mount vertically at the side of the opening, and run the length of the opening. They each have a single hole drilled into them, which will (hopefully) later allow me to fasten two pieces of plastic-clad wire to represent the folding hatch supports on either side. We'll se how THAT turns out!

 

B45117-vi.jpg

 

Next are shown the added mashed-flat(ter) lead fishing lures added to keep the plane from being a tail-sitter. Bits at "A" and "B" have been added. The lead bits at "B" will be painted cockpit color to disguise them. The area marked "C" is where I will add more weight if needed, after a test balance, with the fuse halves taped together, the wings plugged in and the horizontal tail surfaces draped over the rudder using tape, at their correct mounting spot.

 

B45118-vi.jpg

 

Next, I did add some more weight at "B", and the other weights (marked "A") have been painted. Also, the area around the rear hatch was painted.

 

B45119-vi.jpg

 

At last, the big moment! The fuse halves begin to be joined:

 

B45120-vi.jpg

 

But, even this requires planning. Since this is a NMF finish for the most part, I'm seeking the cleanest seams with the least amount of filling and sanding that I'm capable of doing. Here the upper seam, from the bombardier's nose glazing, to the tip of the vertical fin is the only part glued. I added tube glue to the inner cockpit bullheads, etc. Then Weld-On #3 for the fuse seam, pressing and holding and squeezing the seam a section at a time, as needed. The rest of the fuse gluing will take place a bit at a time: bomb bay area, tail, then nose, with several hours to overnight drying time for each section.

 

Even after that, whatever sanding and filling may be needed, there is still a lot of detail to be added, before it's ready for paint and assembly. But, it is slowly getting there...

 

Please, stay tuned.

 

Ed

Edited by TheRealMrEd
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That tail cabin looked an awfully spartan and lonely station. Without being prurient I'm try to work out what point 9 'disposal container' in the drawing was used for.

 

Nice work Ed on the hatch/step combination.

Tony

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all!  -- The bad penny returns....

 

After gluing the fuse halves together,  and filling sanding and polishing the seams  AND re-scribing several lost panel lines, I managed to drop the whole shebang onto a hard surface floor and opened most of the seams! Thank goodness for the tube glue on the cockpit floors, etc, as that kept the parts somewhat together. After clamping and re-gluing, I decided to finish the initial fuse assembly with glazings, and THEN I will fill, polish, re scribe, etc.

 

In any event (and "after the fall" as it were) I resumed by gluing on (for the third time) the bombardier's "sky-lite", and his nose glazing. I also took some more of the fine lead solder and fabricated the rest of the cockpit defrost system, shown as the silver wire marked "A" below.  Notice the plastic card "filling" at "B" and "C" below. Since most of this won't be seen after the canopy goes on, the duct work is just to represent that something is there, but it's not exactly accurate.

 

B45121-vi.jpg

 

Next, we have the tail gunner's office. There will need to be a little filler under the "bubble" part. White not seen in this photo, I added a little K-14 gunsight to the rear station, mainly because I had one on hand, and also, I wasn't able to find out exactly what sight the early B-45's had. The later versions had a radar-laid sighting system, something that Mach2 sort of attempted to represent.

 

I may come to regret not vacuforming the tail bubble, but oh well.

 

B45122-vi.jpg

 

Next I addressed the cockpit front instrument panel "hood". It's supposed to overhang the IP and have a padded front edge. I used a piece of foil from a coffee creamer container, and pressed the foil into place with my fingers to get the correct shape, then cut out the piece with scissors, taking care that the overhang was consistent, I trimmed the "hood" marked "A" and glued it into place with 560 canopy glue.

I then added a thin bead of the same glue along the front edge, using a toothpick, to represent the padded part.

 

B45123-vi.jpg

 

The ejection seats came out pretty well, considering that there's not much to see in their "all-black" glory, but you can barely see the tiny ejction process activation handles, done up in yellow.

Also shown are the seats finally installed into the cockpit, as well as the duct work and hood painted in black.

 

B45124-vi.jpgB45125-vi.jpg

 

Another view of the cockpit, showing the "padded dash"

 

B45126-vi.jpg

 

And lastly, we have the canopy glued into place with G-S Hypo Cement (ie. watch cement). This will not craze the canopy, and after the first coat dries, I will fill the needed canopy to fuse seams with more of the same, which can be smoothed (while wet) with water, or later when dry, rubbed down smooth with 99% rubbing alcohol.

 

B45127-vi.jpg

 

Now comes the endless rounds of filling sanding priming, etc. followed by painting, which entails more of the same. I had hoped to finish this model by New Years, but it ain't gonna happen. Guess I only get credit for one and one-half builds this year!

 

I'll keep plugging away during the holidays. if you don't hear from me before then, have a Merry or a Happy or whatever you do. Just be good, for goodness sake!

 

Ed

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This continues to fascinate Ed. 

 

Sorry to hear about the 'Tornado that Fell to Earth', but you've brought this along admirably since. Your annotation of some of the photos is really helpful! Intersting about the utility of watch cement. I'll have to keep an eye out over the holiday.

 

Keep it up sir and have a good festive period.

 

Tony :bye:

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again, everyone!

 

Hope everyone is well and hearty.  Well, back at it.

 

The forward part of the bombardier's glazing and the forward part of the cockpit framing is black, while the remainder seems to be white. After peeling off the masking on the nose glaziing frames to paint the black, I noticed another case of the phantom crud or hazing or whatever attacks me from time to time, shown here where the arrow points:

 

B45128-vi.jpg

 

And shown below after removing the darned part for repairs:

 

B45129-vi.jpg

 

Not sure what caused this, as I don't think I added any CA, and anyway, the glazing had been dipped in Future/Klear beforehand. Nevertheless, it was that fact which saved me, as I merely had to clean off the Future with Windex/ammonia, and everything cleaned right up. I had to the dip the glazing in Future again, let dry, add the defrost tubing with brushed on future, then a final dip with Future. When dry, re-attached with watch cement. If I had not added all the detail inside, I probably could have cleaned off the haze with a bent Q-tip thru the door, but oh, well...

 

Before re-attaching, I masked the fuse and glazing with tape, to just expose the areas of G-S cement that I would be smoothing with alcohol, when dried. Shown below before repairing the paint on the "sun deck".

 

B45130-vi.jpg

 

During the holidays, I grabbed a few minutes here and there, but forgot to take pictures! Anyway, I found decided that I didn't like the original panel masking on both the nose and cockpit, so I cleaned them off and re-did the framing, to better spacing and angles. I don't know how this will look in the end, because the old kit original spacing shows through, here and there. We'll just have to see. At least it will look better from afar.

 

Below, the re-masking has been done (Bare Metal Foil) and the black and white areas have been painted:

 

B45131-vi.jpg

 

Next, I masked over the entire surface of both the n0se glazing and the cockpit glazing with Parafilm "M". This will be removed from the rear of the cockpit later, before the silver finish goes on.

 

Below if the carcass finally in a good coat of prime and the turned-upside-down tailplanes have been glued on with a combination of tube glue and Weld-On #3, taking care to use the 11-degree angle guage I showed earlier to make certain both side were even. I had to modify the right side mounting tab so that side could slide back a bit to line up with the left side.

 

Next, the tail area has been masked off with Tamiya Tape and a little masking tape and primed with Alclad II white primer. This area will later be painted Insignia Red FS 31136 for the Arctic Conspicuity markings. Oddly, the only photo of the aircraft I'm building shown no red paint on the wings at all. Kind of unusual. The front of the fuse is masked with plastic wrap to prevent over-spray (hopefully).

 

B45133-vi.jpg

 

Next, we have the unit badge of the Air Test Center, made into a master for the home-made decals. I had to go on-line and find the proper format for this time frame. I found a .png file which I added into Photoshop, duplicated two more copies, so I'd have a spare. I also added the light grey background, which hopefully will somewhat approximate the silver background to which it will be applied. One thing I learned about printing ink-jet decals yourself, you can't cut them too close to the design. Even though you seal the surface on the inked side, the water will seep under the sealer coats and destroy part of the edge of the decal. Using a somewhat matching background, it will possibly be harder to see the water edge erosion on the finished model.

 

B45134-vi.jpgB45135-vi.jpg

 

Last pic shows the size of the little critters.

 

Well, thanks for looking, and hopefully will see you soon with a little bare metal and paint on here. Starting to near the home stretch!

 

Ed

Edited by TheRealMrEd
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Always look forward to you popping in with the next instalment Ed.

 

I admire your perfectionism on the glazing - I had a similar 'crud' issue on the interior of the TAG's windows of my Barracuda recently. No idea what caused it but luckily I was able to get the head of a cocktail stick into the fuselage and rub it off again. I'd wondered was it overspray from primer but that seemed unlikely given the fact the cockpit was sealed-off with tape...another mystery.

 

The decal work will be interesting to see how you get on, as I recently tried the laser printed route and was please with results. Good luck on this. :thumbsup2:

Tony

 

 

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We have a B-45 canopy at Bentwaters museum. The rear canopy is a one piece thick blown plexiglass bubble. The 'framework' is comprised of strips of brown fibreglass bonded to the surface. Whether this was painted in service is not known. There is no paint at all on our example, but years exposed to the elements may be the reason. We have brown fibreglass F-84F droptanks too, and they have no paint.

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Thanks for the input, guys.

 

Tony, would love to hear more about the use of lasers for colored decals. Can you point us to a link, or even offer some instruction yourself? I have thought about this, but don't know where to begin, for modeling use.

 

Bentwaters, that sounds about right. Pretty much everything turns brown eventually (LOL).

 

Anyway, here are samples of where I'm getting my ideas:

 

item01-vi.jpg

 

item2-vi.jpgitem4-vi.jpg

 

item3-vi.jpg

 

Not sure how they got this way, but here they are!

 

Ed

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Just a short aside here for the newer modeler's edification, on the matter of sprayed NM finishes. The B-45 is in the paint shop. Some colors have been sprayed, and some panels have been masked over.

 

The next thing is sort of a "throw-away" overcoat on the remaining unpainted parts. The first two pics show things sort of coming along:

 

metal_01-vi.jpg

 

metal02-vi.jpg

 

However, close-ups reveal the bugaboo of the painted NMF modeler -- tiny, even hairline scratches, despite the fact that the model sand been sanded primed scribed, etc. several times already!

 

metal03-vi.jpg

 

metal04-vi.jpg

 

metal05-vi.jpg

 

If I had hair, I'd tear it out!. Meanwhile I shall keep on keepin' on...

 

Ed

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all.

 

Thought it best to begin this segment by showing the a/c I'm trying to model here. This is the ONLY photo I could find of her:

 

B45Artic01-vi.jpg

 

And this photo came from THIS BOOK:

 

metal06-vi.jpg

 

Printed  by Schiffer Pub Co, ISBN #0-88740-483-9. First edition printed in 1993.  If your thing is 50's USAF a/c, this is the book!

 

Anyway, to resume: After peeling of all the various masking layers of various materials, I'm left with this -- a few scuffed spots, paint lifts, and the glue residue on the clear parts.

 

B45136-vi.jpg

 

The cure for part of this problem (the glue residue) is this:

 

B45138-vi.jpgB45137-vi.jpg

 

Which, as you can see from the tail end view, works pretty well. Right here, let me stop and say that I'm recommending this product for removing the glue residue of Parafilm "M" and Bare Metal Foil ONLY,

and only from glazing painted with Model Master Enamels and Alclad stuff (mostly lacquer, in this area). I haven't tried it with other products, nor can I vouchsafe that it works on all types of clear plastic. Try some on the sprue or trimmings from you subject part, before trusting it!

 

It also worked fine on the nose glazings, but as feared, the original canopy scribed lines also appear clearly -- see arrow. The other thing that turned out as I'd feared is that most of the detail in the cockpit can barely be seen, unless you shine a pencil flash on it. Oh well, at least we all know it's there...

 

B45139-vi.jpg

 

Next, a couple of views after adding some decals, and a little touch-up here and there:

 

B45140-vi.jpg

 

B45141-vi.jpg

 

The Air Test Center homemade decal on the right side turned out better than the other side. As feared, the ink ran a little around the edges. What I had done was print directly on the decal paper, then I had  sealed the printed decal with three coats of sprayed acrylic sealer. They were okay till they had to soak in water for an extended time to get the decal film to separate from the backing.

 

I'm going to make another effort, looking for some quick-release white decal paper, and then I will first coat the decal paper with a couple of coats of acrylic BEFORE printing, and a couple or more coats of acrylic after the printing, trying to sandwich the ink between layers of acrylic. Anyone who knows of a sure fire method, listing exact ingredients and process is more than welcome to jump in right here!!!

 

Also, any further info or photos of this aircraft  47-063, would me most welcome.

 

While I expect that this is going to end up as a model of which real close inspection would not be a great idea, I think it will be more than presentable in the case, at scale viewing distance. In support of this theory, here is a teaser pic, taken before the wings are actually attached:

 

B45142-vi.jpg

 

The photos when done will intentionally be better.

 

That's all for now, chugging along. Wish me luck!

 

Ed

Edited by TheRealMrEd
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That's looking great, and I'm sure Dave Menard, from whose book you used the photo for reference, would approve.

For those who don't know, MSgt David W. Menard was probably the foremost authority on the F-100 and USAF aircraft of the 1950s, with several books to his credit. After retiring from a career in the Air Force, he went to work for the USAF Museum in Dayton, OH, and was instrumental in restoring several of their aircraft. I got to know him when I lived in the Cincinnati, OH, area, and made frequent trips to visit the Museum. Later, as Editor at Squadron/Signal Publications, I called on him frequently for assistance with several projects. He was always willing to share his knowledge and photos from his vast collection. While he portrayed the image of the crusty master sergeant, he was one of the most soft-hearted people I ever knew. Although he was a life-long bachelor, after his second retirement from the USAF Museum, he worked as a volunteer in the neonatal unit at one of Dayton's largest hospitals. He passed away several years ago, and those of us who knew him still miss him and his invaluable contributions to the history of the modern United States Air Force.

Sorry, Ed for hijacking your thread, but I though you and others ought to know a bit about Dave. Your model is a wonderful tribute to him and the airmen of that era.

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No problem Michael, glad to read about it and didn't know. Good stuff and as you say, a great reference.

 

We should all try to remember the shoulders upon whom we all now stand.

 

Ed

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On 1/4/2017 at 6:04 PM, TheRealMrEd said:

Tony, would love to hear more about the use of lasers for colored decals. Can you point us to a link, or even offer some instruction yourself? I have thought about this, but don't know where to begin, for modeling use.

Hello again Ed.

Apologies for the tardy response - I have to plead pressures of work and general inattentiveness on my part to builds I'm watching. Lovely progress btw on the paint stage; take some solace that your travails will be my gain.:lol: Never having done metal treatments before of any kind, I've a number of future USAF projects (C119, F-89, F-106, B-58 etc.) all of which fill me with a mixture of trepidation mixed with excitement...

 

To answer your question re: laser-printing decals. I'm very much a novice at this. I recently used this stuff: 

$_12.JPG

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/5-Pack-A4-Laser-Printer-Water-Slide-Decal-Paper-Sheets-White-and-Clear-/131433201805?var=&hash=item0

 

...to print up some canopy markings for a Sea Venom build. I was pleased with both print quality, and ease of application. From feedback I got from other people it seems my experiences with laser were less fiddly than some people's experiences with inkjet, re: durability of pigment on decal medium. I plump for the laser route myself.

 

I've a number of future builds that there aren't decal sets for so intend laser-printing my own, using the following procedure:

 

1. As markings are graphic (rather than photographic) in nature I'd use a graphics program (in my case Adobe Illustrator) to produce the artwork.

 

2. As long as the original is on a flat surface eg. wing, tail etc., it should be possible to work using the original image as a template provided the photo wastaken directly facing the subject i.e., no oblique camera-angles. The same proviso applies to original markings on curved surfaces - depending on the angle of curvature on the original surface - as well as camera-angle - the original image can provide a reference, but not a template.

 

3. When scaling the decals, I'd intend doing it in Photoshop with a (scale) reference drawing of the aircraft in the background layer, and the decals on individual layers for scaling and placement. In that way the relative sizes can be thoroughly worked-out, prior to assembling the decals more compactly on an A4 sheet, like a normal decal sheet, for printing.

 

4. As for lettering, I need to investigate first what's available commercially in terms of various eras' RAF, USAF etc. lettering styles, as it's unlikely there will be fonts for all of the required combinations to print your own lettering sheets.

 

5. In terms of getting the colours of marking correct, having access to datasheets containing BS or Pantone reference numbers for specific colours  would be useful form cross-referencing to use the RGB values in Illustrator. Otherwise using the eye-dropper tool to sample colour directly from the image is the only other viable route (bearing in mind colour-bias' from different film stocks  - especially early colour - and varying WB value for digital images)

 

6. To maintain as much quality and sharpness I'd also produce the imagery at 300dpi.

 

I'm not anticipating printing anything for a while but I'll PM you at a later date when I've a result to share Ed.

 

Tony

 

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Thanks Tony,

 

Do you have a laser printer, or do you take the artwork to a shop of some sort? Kind of interested in getting one of my own, if it will do color. Don't know much about them.

 

I also have a color-corrected scanner and monitor, so sometimes I can scan in a paint sample or object to get close, but even then the matter of sheen, reflectance, and light source color value are also factors in trying to get it right. Thankfully, on a model, close is usually close enough. Will be looking forward to hearing about what you learn in the laser process.

 

On the matter of the build, when joining the wings to the B-45 fuse (both pre-painted with Alclad II), I unfortunately found out that the standard Alclad II metallics are removed by 99% alcohol, so my idea of filling the small seams with watch cement in this case did not work.  Will be filling with Perfect Plastic Putty, and trying again -- and, will also be repainting the upper fuse to wing join areas for good measure!

 

Ed

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