Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I'm somewhat diffident about putting this photo on here. It's my first attempt at an armoured vehicle and thought I might elicit some helpful criticism, Can only show from this side as I managed to ruin the 'GRIEF' decal for the other side. Has anyone else tried applying decals using only Humbrol Decalfix? I'd be interested to know how they got on.

IMAG0145_zps5u4xkfm4.jpg

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got fond memories of this kit, as I built it as a kid. It's nice to see it again, and if it was 1:35 I'd have been tempted to get another one. I always thought that the face of Mr Rommel was quite well sculpted. :)

I don't use decalfix, but there are plenty of other solutions out there if you don't get on with it. Try Mr Mark Setter & Softer (two bottles of varying intensity), or Daco, who again do a couple of flavours varying from mild to aggressive. They come in little jam pots too, which is kind of cute ^_^

Always put your decals onto a glossy surface, and then matt the surface back down if that's the look you want to achieve. My old kit was decaled over matt paint, and I got silvering, plus the decal peeled off eventually because it wasn't well secured to surface, or covered with varnish. :shrug:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second what Mike said about decaling. I use Micro Sol and Set.

I think you've done a decent job on it as a first time military vehicle. At the end of the day just keep going and enjoy it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my protoype notes, the original application of the Grief (Griffon) name was loused-up too, with only a white outline for the name and the German cross on the right-hand side of the vehicle - so don't worry too much!!!

Cracking job

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm struggling with a first public attempt with a DUKW at the moment so I've got some sympathy for you. That being said your half-track looks like a pretty neat job to me.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your kind comments and helpful advice. I have used Microsol/set in the past, Darby, with good results on gloss surfaces. However I feel that glossing a neatly painted matt surface and then matting it again makes the original colours significantly darker and frequently the matt varnish ends up a milky white. I used Decalfix for the first, and so far, only time after watching a short video online, imaginatively titled 'How To Use Decalfix',Which shows the use of this to soak the decal from the backing and applying to the surface which has also had decalfix brushed lightly on. The claim is that this avoids silvering without the need for applying to a gloss surface, and those which I did manage to apply seem to bear this out. I didn't manage to get the lost one in the right place and shifting it about eventually destroyed it, Airfix are unable to replace these unfortunately. I have seen the white outline version Pete610 but unless you know a miniature sign writer it will have to stay missing.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

..... However I feel that glossing a neatly painted matt surface and then matting it again makes the original colours significantly darker and frequently the matt varnish ends up a milky white.

While glossing a matt surface is beneficial for applying decals - helping to prevent silvering - it also serves as a good ground for enamel/oil washes and filters so I always apply gloss nowadays. And yes, the gloss coat and a further matt coat DO darken the original colours, but this is easily solved by adding white to the original colours. After applying decals, seal them in with another coat of gloss, You need only seal the decal area, not the entire model. Subsequent enamel washes/filters etc will darken the colours, hopefully by the right amount. (If it goes too dark, don't forget that the correct colour filters can LIGHTEN the model)

I use Microset and Microsol and haven't had any problems at all while following the instructions.

Rearguards,

Badder

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What varnish do you use?

I use Winsor & Newton Galleria & the Humbrol decal solution on aircraft & armour. I gave up on Humbrol varnishes after a beautiful SE Asia camo F4 moved itself to an arctic scheme overnight. There were tears!

Good model by the way!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding milky matt varnishes, this is due to insufficient mixing when the bottle/tin was new. When you first get a tin of matt varnish, it has the correct proportion of carrier to matting agent (usually pumice powder), but as the matting agent is heavier, it tends to sink to the bottom. You can actually see this in the transparent bottles of the Aclad range of matt varnishes. When you use the varnish, if you don't agitate it fully, you end up spraying/brushing more of the carrier than the matting agent, which initially leads to unsatisfactory matt coverage.

Over time the proportion of carrier to agent will skew in favour of the matting agent, and you will start to get better matt finishes, and then eventually milky finishes. That then puts you off that varnish for life. :boom: If you get a milky finish you need to do four things.

  • Throw that bottle/can away. You'll probably always get a milky finish with it now that the balance is skewed
  • Give the milky model a coat of gloss varnish, which should go a long way to recovering the colour of the model as long as it's not TOO bad
  • Get a new bottle of matt varnish
  • Make sure you agitate/stir/shake it properly in future

I almost lost my Fw.189 to this issue some years back, and it took a lot of thinking (I know, I'm slow) to figure it out. however, a milky matt varnish can actually help you to sun bleach your model if you're careful with it. I did a bit of that with the radome on my Mig-31 recently :ninja:

Hopefully that will help? :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the helpful advice, I shall certainly take it on board. I've only used Humbrol matt varnish, both from a rattle can and with a brush, mainly because I live 5 minutes away from the Hornby Visitor Centre where I get 20% discount! Last time I used Humbrol Matt Clear with much the same results. It comes in a bottle and appeared to be well mixed. I should obviously widen my horizons, so I shall try the Windsor and Newton product on the Fairey Swordfish I'm presently rigging. Now where did I put that invisible thread....

Al

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...