Decal application question

[DDELK]

My question is about getting the decals to conform to the rivet detail. I don't seem to have any issues getting them to lay down on the panel lines, but on still not quite getting that painted on look. Do I need to use a blow dryer to soften them up more. If someone has a good step by step, I would greatly appreciate it..

Thanks

Dave

[Parabat]

I have used the Micro Sol and Micro Set solutions to good effect.

[DDELK]

I have those, but it seems sometimes not enough

Dave

[Black Knight]

Sometimes, lots and lots of applications of micro sol/set are needed.

Also a very gentle rubbing down with a cotton bud when the decals are wet.

[Jon Bryon]

I use an unconventional method that always works for me: https://jonbryon.com/2016/03/15/decals/

I can get decals to conform to some pretty serious surface detail using this method.

Jon

[depressed lemur]

I use an unconventional method that always works for me: https://jonbryon.com/2016/03/15/decals/

I can get decals to conform to some pretty serious surface detail using this method.

Jon

Interesting, I am about to start decalling a couple of FW190's so might try this on one or two and report back.

[Jon Bryon]

Interesting, I am about to start decalling a couple of FW190's so might try this on one or two and report back.

I'll only vouch for it working with Mr Setter All bets are off for other setting agents.

Jon

[DDELK]

Jon,

I usually use the clear floor wax (future) are you saying that this doesn'tt work very well with your method?

Thanks

Dave

[Jon Bryon]

Jon,

I usually use the clear floor wax (future) are you saying that this doesn'tt work very well with your method?

Thanks

Dave

Klear and Mr Setter are very different products, so I wouldn't expect my method to work with Klear/Future. It might though; you'd have to try

Cheers

Jon

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Hi, you might also try the VERY hot damp cloth method too. Apply a little micro set or mr setter under your decal no leave it ti grab for a few seconds. Then Take a cloth or folded piece of kitchen towel, dip in VERY HOT WATER (, I use water from a kettle that's recently boiled- it has to be hot enough to hurt your fingers, but obviously don't use boiling water!!!!) once it's dipped, wring out the excess and press the hot damp cloth onto the decal firmly for a few seconds. Remove it and admire the results! It really does work.

Jonners

[DDELK]

I will give that a try. I'm just about finished with my UAE F-16E, so I will try it out on the decals..

Thanks

Dave

[Greenshirt]

Using Future/Klear as a decal setting solution works well with some decals, but not all. And in my experience works best with older decals that no longer have any adhesive on them. I prefer dedicated setting and solvent solutions for decals less than 10 years old.

My process:

1) lay at least one coat of gloss; I use Future/Klear airbrushed straight (no thinning) in a few layers until a nice wet sheen is achieved

2) let that gloss layer cure for about 24-48 hours

3) work in one "plane" at a time--meaning only do the top, then only the bottom, etc; so I set up a jig to hold the model steady in that plane

4) dip the decal in very warm, not hot, water. About the same temp as baby's milk; for about 30 seconds

5) lay on a paper towel to let the water soak in

6) when the decal moves freely on its paper backing by touching with a wet brush, it's ready to apply

7) flood the area of the model with water from the brush, really just a drop or two to ensure the decal can move about

8) slide the decal off the sheet, onto the model and position with the brush. Add water if it is stubborn

9) use a cotton bud, or favorite method, to wick away the water

10) using a different brush, place a drop of setting solution, enough to cover the decal

11) leave it alone for at least an hour

12) repeat flooding the decal with setting or solvent solutions until the decal lays down properly.

I have 5 different set/sol solutions that vary in strength, I typically start with the weakest one and progress until the right one for the decal is found. If I were only to use one, I'd either use Revell's decal set or Daco Soft as most others are strong enough to ruin some decals. Given enough time, even the weak ones will usually get a decal to lay down, albeit sometimes only really strong stuff works, but those are usually really thick decals.

Tim

[depressed lemur]

Well, I tried Jon's method with Micro Set with mixed success, though that may have been more to my mistakes with the application. On the whole I had good results with well hidden carrier film, but a couple of decals did not go into the pane lines.

[Mike]

I use Daco strong for ultimate settlability, but if anything stays proud, push with the tip of a cotton bud to stretch the decal, use a needle to depress them too, which can also be drawn along panel lines to get them to settle down when soft.

[Jon Bryon]

Well, I tried Jon's method with Micro Set with mixed success, though that may have been more to my mistakes with the application. On the whole I had good results with well hidden carrier film, but a couple of decals did not go into the pane lines.

I think Mr Setter is quite a different beast to Micro Set - it certainly looks totally different. I've never had any significant success with Micro Set.

One additional word of warning: don't use Mr Setter on top of Klear. It works very well on top of Tamiya X-22 and Gunze gloss varnishes.

Jon

[DDELK]

Well you guys have all given me some pretty useful information. Like I said before, I haven't had to many issues but I was just looking for that little extra to hopefully make the decals look a little moe painted on. I will take all this info and give it a go.. My next project is a two seat thunderbird, and that's where I think I will really get a feel for it..

Thanks

Dave

Edited July 26, 2016 by DDELK

[Tomjw]

I'll only vouch for it working with Mr Setter All bets are off for other setting agents.

Jon

I disagree. Mr Setter struggled with some Revell Tornado decals of mine. Daco Strong? Another story. Awesome.

Cheers,

Tom.

[Jon Bryon]

I disagree. Mr Setter struggled with some Revell Tornado decals of mine. Daco Strong? Another story. Awesome.

Cheers,

Tom.

Did you use my method, or go with the conventional one?

Jon

[Tomjw]

I've used both Mr Mark Softer and Mr Mark Setter together, and they are better than Microsol and set. I didn't use your method, but it looks wasteful. Also, I suspect there may be a risk that the decal could move whilst the Mr Mark Setter evaporates using your method. Daco strong doesn't involve flooding the entire model with liquid. Just use it as Mike describes. Works a treat on Tamiya decals as well, which is a good 'stress test'.

Cheers,

Tom.

Edited July 27, 2016 by Tomjw

[Jon Bryon]

I've used Daco Strong quite a few times and never had any success. I think everyone eventually comes up with a method that works for them. I've got mine to work with a very wide variety of decals (including Revell and Tamiya) and can't see how I could get better results than I am getting. Decals are voodoo

Jon

[Jon Bryon]

Here's another recent example using my method. The '1420' has been applied according to the steps I lay out in the article above, over some pretty serious surface detail. The AMK decals are not exactly thin, but I think the way they have conformed is pretty astonishing given I simply float the decal on a pool of Mr Setter and then do exactly nothing to it:

Jon

Edited July 27, 2016 by Jon Bryon