Jump to content

1/48 Eduard Fw 190A-5, Hptm. Egon Mayer, France 1943


Recommended Posts

Thanks gents,

Forging ahead in no particular order. A colleague once remarked that I use the instructions only as a abstract and they are somebody else's idea on how to build any way! I have started working on the cockpit, only because if I don't I cannot really proceed! I added some 0.05 rod to the base of the control column and starboard wall and a half piece to the port. Eduard PE pedals and map case and some 0.03 lead wire for the control column. Then base coat of Warbirds Enamel RLM 66 to the interiors:

3E4C16F8-78EC-43DD-8B53-5ECDB06E8443_zps

The side panel PE required about 1mm to be removed from the front to sit correctly. The lower instrument cluster was fitted and then all got some Future to bond them and set aside to dry:

F093D969-703F-4C26-9146-8BF6437863D1_zps

The Ultracast seat got its RLM 66 base coat and then I commenced detailing with the leather thigh straps whilst I had the MM Leather out for the control column boot and toe clips:

0EDF5B0A-AB92-4313-8DE4-8DD0398601DB_zps

F22417A9-DD1E-433E-B8F2-F02815D4C2A9_zps

I had detached the instrument shroud from the sprue and attached the upper instrument cluster backing board so I could paint it. It was too tempting just sitting there so I attached it using a small piece of styrene glued on the underside, between the forward edge and the panel. This addresses the issue of attaching it to just the forward edge of the cockpit. There is a little thin gap on the sides but the windscreen will cover that. It is just wide enough to allow a bond on each side:

ED196CDC-3F88-4602-A1C7-A01E4B5F3A85_zps

82070E88-6902-4C8F-87BE-A12AC690A50C_zps

The two piece PE instruments were set in place with Future:

3ADD5DA3-6CCB-474F-88B2-E8BB89B19A73_zps

Having pushed my luck far enough in that direction, I went back to the wings and wheels. The MLG braces, retraction locks and engine cover were fitted without incident. I then thinned the material around the edges of the wing root cannon cartridge ejector openings to give a better scale appearance:

4B5960B5-3586-49E2-A784-7495BD69FDF0_zps

B6D7C435-A6D0-428A-8E3D-AC000DA08827_zps

The wing upper interiors that would be visible through the ejector openings were sprayed MM Flat Black and the chutes for the nose mounted MG 17 ejector chutes were marked out for removing the centres to give the impression of open chutes rather than closed:

6CCD322A-BEAD-4343-8346-4ACEFFBF6083_zps

3203EB97-6E89-4A48-AD6F-3713BAFBFDFE_zps

I think I have tempted the modelling Gods enough today. You can just see the instrument shroud support block I added. The large piece of round rod that is visible on the lower port engine support is there to rectify an overzealous use of snips.

Regards,

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks lads,

I continued working the ejection chutes, first drilling two holes in each then cleaning out the material with a micro chisel. Then a coat of Warbirds RLM 02:

5AFDAC0B-3A6B-4A08-97EC-2FAE70D5C8D0_zps

706B1EB3-B03E-47EA-863E-31870DBF7D4C_zps

The rest of the internals were shot with RLM 02:

00D06685-ED4D-41CE-A42A-D8534FAB5C0D_zps

C2B2DF4B-C682-4D1D-BC3A-786CCB0BD4DC_zps

I also chain drilled the wing root cannon openings to incorporate the covers:

FD8510A7-9D72-4339-99E2-4798B3B0BCF1_zps

3E84DADB-81C4-4573-8074-AE2BFCE42B9E_zps

The covers are meant to fit over the inners with the interior ribbing setting the position. However there is no wriggle room, so some of the ribs were removed. This resulted in a better idea of fit and what needs to be done to get the seal correct:

949BD3F1-513E-4962-8F73-AE5BEBB0F973_zps

B7B90119-F305-46C2-A05B-E44CD053E24B_zps

70A8E881-84BD-4DD1-AC1F-65A00D0F4BA9_zps

I continued with the cockpit tub, adding some more PE:

50FF8153-4D7C-428C-A777-5AF730D680A0_zps

E56CABA7-ED93-4948-B31E-804BBCBB3974_zps

Regards,

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So,

I set about finishing off the cockpit PE general finagling...before I knew it the cockpit was installed:

25FF4F8B-2243-4581-87A5-CDA7DED19328_zps

6F8A45B7-117A-4107-906C-AB3EBAE8BAC2_zps

I left the seat until later as I will now have to gloss coat, wash, weather and matte coat with the cockpit installed. I decided to test fit the lower wings and dry fit them to a point where the seams were almost invisible and thought, " I don't want to miss that chance, I'll just add a spot of glue to the lower wing joins to hold it." Well, before I knew it, the lower wings were attached and setting up nicely:

22EFD614-3DF4-4AC3-9B1A-A9412C51BA6E_zps

8611D1DB-9082-4B9D-BA7D-8E31D14B2B3D_zps

BA3156DE-1E40-41A6-9D05-47F7D817B1A1_zps

562E3771-44B4-4125-868A-504AF43DED21_zps

Thanks for looking,

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to self....do not proceed with attaching cowling, no matter HOW tempting to check the fit, before you prepare, paint and install the exhausts!

Regards,

Nice work Kent and you're right about that

Not to self....do not proceed with attaching cowling, no matter HOW tempting to check the fit, before you prepare, paint and install the exhausts!

Regards,

Nice work Kent and you're right about that

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome back,

True to my word, I spent the morning working on the exhaust. I found the longitudinal centre of each and marked them with a pin scriber in two places, about central to the micro drill I was using. I then drilled two shallow holes and cleaned out the centre, leaving a roughly similar shape to the exhaust outlets. As I intended to replicate the QB set, I cut the prepared ends of each eaxhaust and glued them to the interior of the cowling. I had marked the upper and lower extremes of the cowling wall. It was then a matter of align, check, re-align until I was happy:

2D9570B0-7A35-4258-9AE9-8F58981FA3EF_zps

The lower exhaust was done the same way and then the downside to my haste became obvious. After about 30 minutes of attempting to manipulate the piece into place, I gave up and will install them from the outside later:

2A691309-A8FB-429C-8A3E-4702667B144E_zps

I worked the MG 17 troughs, both lower and upper to get a better fit for the Master Barrels MG 17 tips. Once I was happy the only thing left to do was attach the cowling:

02153741-622C-4FDA-9488-70C6585EACE8_zps

68F1DA50-425A-49BE-8314-6DBB8C93B43F_zps

6BACFF6B-39F1-4874-8B4E-4632546FE065_zps

95A38AA4-C4D6-4F7D-BBD2-200BD1E17354_zps

9850E5B0-0FEE-42EC-AEEA-C05BDF4E2D2B_zps

7811CF02-B436-458F-AE82-4F0460609C9F_zps

Pretty happy with that. Thanks for looking.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done!

This helps disprove all those horror stories about the eduard 190 a & d kits being poor fitting etc, esp when being 'closed up'

I have done a few myself and as long as you take your time, follow the instructions and test fit (all the things you'd do with any model surely?) then you can get results like this.

Keep it up 👍🏻

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

I appreciate the good words. I agree Tony, as I have said previously, the bad reputation is not entirely deserved. They build beautifully if done as designed to be (opened up) but to close them requires a little bit of skill as you are intentionally altering the engineering from the original intent. There are some places where one has to wonder why Eduard did it that way, (the IP shroud springs to mind) but these are made with very little tolerances. Anyway onto the update.

I am concentrating on getting the wing root seam as close to perfect as I can, as there should be no seam forward of the cannon bay at all, being a one piece pressed metal construction. It is a case of dry fit, sand, chisel or scrape then dry fit again to locate "high" points in the spars, wing root cannon assemblies or fuselage to wing joins:

42C17AA9-2F6B-4435-8013-36EB4DC14891_zps

667F34F0-A707-4E26-B6CE-06049E6905C5_zps

D4A07A47-8B40-4FDE-B948-08DCC3850324_zps

F98873A6-AFCD-49CF-A196-05F42D22683A_zps

I as a little overzealous in my sanding of the port wing root. I could not get a solid join and light showed through the underside join in the MLG bay. So a piece of thin card was glued to the inner edge, allowed to dry and then cut to shape:

89D4EF0A-2E34-45B5-8465-FF94594C0B6D_zps

9BA0BAA8-BCD7-4FB4-8516-E8E2747C9768_zps

The result is pretty good, remembering these pieces are just sitting in place with some finger pressure:

025228B2-C646-44B0-B9AD-13685E0C8E0B_zps

BF650EB6-DB43-447C-891E-4041DC5B0298_zps

EB2AC4C8-3F0B-4FFA-A81E-77EDE4FFA0AF_zps

With various sections having had their gloss coat in preparation for washes, I turned my attention to the anemic shroud protector. On a previous build, I just painted it up. This time I wanted to beef it up so a piece of 1mm rod was cut and glued centrally to the shroud. Once this area has dried I intend to carefully bend the rod to conform to shape, ementing a bit at a time and allowing it to cure:

A6E31810-EFBA-4744-B0E3-8AA6A89B00D8_zps

AC4B7D52-A659-4268-8D64-A9EF73FECE7D_zps

That's all for now, thanks looking in.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome back,

I have washed the interiors of the MLG and cockpit with AK Neutral grey enamel wash. The wing uppers have been attached with promising results. The port rear moved a little when I added the tape for dihedral but some PPP will fix that. The leather shroud pad has been trimmed and fixed into position:

2129D2FA-91C5-4ABF-9C9B-C3CE8AFF768A_zps

FE001D06-3E92-460D-916F-6DE22E383F34_zps

ECDDF4BF-BF10-4CB7-AE96-BF7AEF278B88_zps

FC8A5FFA-8FEC-4E85-BD4C-025A5E610E77_zps

I have started detailing the MLG with fuel lines and wiring and the seat has been finished and awaits its matte coat and weathering:

987E366E-B0AD-4AAF-80DF-1496A3C2E3E5_zps

BEF1FA15-A5C6-42DD-8400-B198E4ABFD14_zps

Regards,

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A quick update....some paint to the shroud pad and the Revi C12 gunsight and wing root cannon covers installed:

78B0561A-C80C-428E-B8D0-06FD7D71A554_zps

B2C5AEDF-D1B6-4608-89BA-D3379684C780_zps

FC4814DE-3B4B-41FA-960A-C4D87D56512E_zps

88152E95-43BE-4FF2-908F-7DB969AD0489_zps

633C9F75-EBA8-4BC3-BAF0-22CB25839A02_zps

Obviously a bit of fettling to do. I shall set about that once I have attached the windshield and masked the area off to prevent dust getting in.

Regards,

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome back,

Steady progress this morning. I have applied AK Ultra Flat varnish to the finished interiors of the MLG and cockpit.The seat and the reflector glass and sun shield for the gunsight have been installed (I need to adjust the rear piece I can see!). I have dipped the clear parts in "Pledge" and once dry, I will mask and attach the windshield:

DCFBCD8C-DF3C-44DD-9827-E82E8B7DCB2C_zps

371C6732-3B68-4905-8D25-D1C1B68584C8_zps

885049FF-3437-4E55-B08F-C8307B3AC078_zps

E48E9019-6A62-4AA0-B0AB-27772E21900D_zps

Regards,

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Canso65,

One of the deficiencies of the Eduard kit is in the canopy internal structure. It is very simplified for an area that is so obviously on show. In my previous A8 build a couple of years ago, I had resorted to a crude but effective scratchbuilding attempt at the internals to at least give an impression of what actually lay beneath:

003-7.jpg

Eduard have not adapted their current (first release) moulds and we are still given the basic three pieces to represent the framing. They may address this in their future release. However, in 2010 (according to the stamp on the PE) they did release some upgraded PE sets for their Fw190D series aircraft (D9, D11 and D13). These were in the new (old?) brass finish and contain a wealth of detail to jazz up your D series kits. The good thing is a lot of it can be used on an A series as well:

EFEE8069-156A-4B6B-A80C-DDBA82EDF11A_zps

Including this little piece of gold (no pun intended) the internal canopy framing:

E1FBF403-8871-415C-B299-6BA8E31DC9F8_zps

21642090-7315-4275-B970-7D9CD2A6BE8A_zps

The only thing I have to ensure is the scheme I do for the D later on doesn't use it. I did have to undertake some remedial filling due to overzealous use of a drill bit on the outboard MG-FF apertures. I filled each gaping hole with some styrene rod (from the spares box...nothing gets thrown out!) which I will sand during the leading edge work and re drill to a smaller, more appropriate, aperture:

A3E5FE65-E385-4578-888F-FF7248A7F860_zps

B1043D09-F6BC-400A-8A01-EFF1A08364E5_zps

Thanks for checking in!

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...