Non modeller decal preservation

[Darby]

I know what I would do but here goes. A work colleague has a Star Trek model he made when he was in his teens and still has it although he doesn't model anymore.

As a non modeller he wants to try and preserve it as best as possible. The decals have been put on a matt surface but are still holding well after twenty years. I told him to put a coat of Klear over it with a flat brush. Anyone got any better suggestions. I did offer to take it home and airbrush Klear over it but I don't think it would survive 4 hrs in an old battlewagon down to Devon.

Cheers

Darbs

[Greenshirt]

Rattle can of clear acrylic? Available here in US, in Michaels craft stores. 2-3 very light coats. He wants to very slowly build up the coating, not dump it all on at once. I've seen old decals come up with the brush if stroked more than once.

Tim

[Black Knight]

Your suggestion is fine Darby;

I'd agree to tell him not to flood the first coat on as it could loosen the decals [happened to me]

I'd tell him to put two - maybe three coats on, leaving it to dry at least 24 hours before coating again.

I'd not use anything from a rattle can though as the carrier could react with whatever paint he originally used and could ruin the finish.

[viscount806x]

Another point not picked up as far as I can see is that whilst a clear coat will seal and lend some permanence to the decals, the carrier film around the applied decals will most likely become very visible, being on top of matt paint.

My own suggestion for an experienced modeller might be to try and get some replacements and after removing the originals by carefully loosening with water or other liquid, gloss up the surface of the model and start again.

It is also a slim possibilty that the original decals might be thick enough to be removed and reapplied after suitably storing them whilst said gloss surface is applied.

Yet another possibilty in the same vein might be to carefully remove the decals and stick them onto a surface suitable for scanning. That way, the decals can be re printed off a computer onto decal paper, effectively giving a replacement decal set. Of course, any white in the decals will be an issue if stuck onto white paper. I could suggest, in that case, that instead of paper, use a blank transparency from an overhead projector jobby as a carrier for the old decals prior to scanning. Thinks: do they still sell those?

Good luck with it anyway.

Nige B

[Greenshirt]

Another option could be to flood each decal carefully with Kleer. Take a nr 0 pointed brush, dip in Kleer, touch to the edge of the decal to get the fluid to wick underneath. This would provide a bit I'd stickiness when dry and help to remove the roughness from the matte paint underneath. I'd also carefully roll a damp cotton bud over the decal to squeeze out any excess.

A photo of the model could help with suggestions.

Tim

Edited July 18, 2016 by Greenshirt