Using Halfords/Holts automotive spray paint

[m4rky]

I have been spraying some halfords/holts colour match auto paint on my 1/24 tamiya boxster and i don't know if I am doing it right?

I've put a few light coats of halfords primer down (at least 30 mins between coats). Sanded the last coat so its nice and smooth. washed it and waited 24 hours.

I've applied 3 mist coats of the colour. Again with at least 30 mins between.

Now I'm doing the wet coat but it doesn't seem to be looking like its wet.

I don't want to flood the model and cause runs but I am doing heavier and slower sprays than the mist coats.

I just looks rough.

The paint I am using is a metallic colour and to be honest as its auto paint the flakes are a bit out of scale but I needed a specific colour to match a real car.

Am I doing it wrong?

Is this because its a metallic paint?

Do I need to add a clear coat and then all will be well?

Will it be ok if I just sand with a very high grit wet and dry say 8000 or above and then polish.

I will try and get a picture of it in the morning

[roymattblack]

If it's metallic, you will never get a shine without the lacquer clear coat.

It makes a whole world of difference, and your metallic paint colour will really leap out with the clear on it.

I've been using Halfords rattle-cans for years on all of my models.

Just a few examples below - all are clear coated.

What you are doing with the paint sounds absolutely right.

Add the clear layer - you'll be amazed.

Roy.

Edited July 15, 2016 by roymattblack

[m4rky]

Thanks Roy for the reply. Is there any particular clear coat I should use?

I took a few pictures of the body this morning and it looks a lot worse after it has dried a bit. I am not sure if the rough texture is because I have sprayed it wrong or due to the large metallic flakes?

Should I sand it before a clear coat? Or will the clear coat level it all out?

Edited July 15, 2016 by m4rky

[roymattblack]

That really looks strange.

It shouldn't look like that at all - it ought to be flat and smooth.

It almost looks as if the spray can isn't putting out enough paint or pressure, and it's kind of 'spattering'.

Either that, or you are only pressing the nozzle down half way, to try to get less paint coming out.

Sadly, I think that will need stripping off completely.

Overnight covered in oven cleaner, in a poly bag. Wash it in warm soapy water, rinse and dry.

Back to a clean shell.

When spraying with rattle cans, make sure the can is warm and really well shaken.

Spray in a dust and draught free place - shed, garage, spare room... mind ventilation though.

Spray with the can a good 12" from the model and press the nozzle down fully to get a good spray.

Move the can quickly and only let go of the nozzle when you have sprayed PAST the model.

2-3 coats should give you a nice smooth finish.

The pics below are my D Type and C Type shells 10 minutes after painting with Halfords rattle cans.

The D Type is also metallic paint.

No clear coat on either just yet.

Roy.

Edited July 15, 2016 by roymattblack

[MetroRacing]

What you have there is known as orange peel and is what happens when you build up layers of paint without sanding between coats.

If you apply a 'mist' coat first, it needs to be cut back smooth before the next coat and you can either build up the layers in mists until you get an even, full coverage when sanded and then you can clear. Another thing that should be said is that a metallic paint should be finished with a final wet coat, as sanding can leave an uneven coverage with the flakes.

I wouldn't strip the paint off as Roy has suggested, but it's an option. First I'd sand the paint down with 400 grit until it's smooth. Then apply another wet coat.

Halfords paints can usually handle being sprayed from 10-15cm away without running as long as you spray in quick passes and don't keep covering the same areas over and over. I mostly only ever do 2 colour coats on a body before its ready for clear.

Hope that helps.

Ashley

[colin]

As the good advice from Roy,also sit the can in a jug of very hot, but not boiling water, for a few minutes before your ready to spray.

Also if I use a rattle can I tend to put the can back in the hot water between coats if your building up layers

[vontrips]

I assume the reference to Holts is for the metallic paint you're using? Are you sure they are supposed to be compatible with Halfords primer? Not used Holts stuff for years - simply because their paint used to be aweful!

[roymattblack]

A good point.

Simoniz car paints are also terrible.

I use Halford primers, paints and clear.

Keep to one brand for compatability.

[MetroRacing]

I've used Holts domestic gloss white over Halfords primer before and had no problems. Bloody stunk the house out though lol

Ashley

[m4rky]

I bought the colour match paint from Halfords and the can is labelled as Holts.

The only other difference with this paint is that it has a different Spray head from all other spray cans I have used.

Its called a Danvern fan spray valve

The primer is just standard Halford grey primer that I already had a can of.

I did sand the last mist coat a little just before my attempt at a wet coat with a 6000 grit wet and dry paper.

Also the spray cans should have been warm. I keep them in the house and I gave it over 2 minutes of shaking before spraying.

I think it is mainly down to the spray head making a strange wide fan spray and maybe not being at the right distance from the model? Maybe need to be a bit nearer?

[bentwaters81tfw]

TBH I would stick to all Halfords products. Holts have a bad rep, and Hycote is very thin. That is a very bad spray delivery. As said above, light mist coats with the spray across the model, not at it. Depress the spray nozzle before you start your spray sweep, and only release after you have cleared the model. I would strip that and start again.

[roymattblack]

If you still have plenty of paint, I'd have a practice on anything plastic - even an old (clean) bucket.

Give it some primer, sanding etc, then try the gloss.

See how it comes out.

Another thought - if it was one of the 'Custom colours' they can mix for you, they have a very different nozzle which at times is no good.

I've had one in the past. The paint wouldn't spray properly and it also tended to go everywhere.

I tugged the nozzle off and used one from a different can.

Totally different result.

Roy.

Edited July 15, 2016 by roymattblack

[MetroRacing]

Ahh the dreaded Halfords Colour match nozzles. Now it makes sense. I use a local automotive paint shop if I need a matched colour as although the nozzle is similar, it's no where as bad as the Halfords ones. Cheaper too lol. The trouble is a matched paint is designed for painting real cars and a wide fan spray is what is needed to help blend the repair in.

Yes you need to be nearer the model and don't be afraid to lay it on thick to get a decent result. The paint does level itself quite well but it's easy to go too far and get a run. Practice on something to get used to how it sprays like Roy suggests.

Ashley

[m4rky]

I have sprayed before just never a metallic and never a proper auto spray.

Used Tamiya TS sprays over Halfords grey primer and never had anything like this before.

I might see if i can get a new "normal" nozzle and see what its like.

When sanding the body down. I presume I only do it lightly as I am only trying to take the texture off not the colour.

There are a few raised details and panel lines, how do you sand these? Or is it best to leave them alone.

Thanks for the help so far

Edited July 15, 2016 by m4rky

[MetroRacing]

For sanding use a square on a finger or 2 if its a large area. Use 400 grit as anything higher will take ages to smooth off the surface. Don't be afraid to sand through to primer or even plastic if your doing another coat. The sandpaper will give the surface a good key regardless.

If you don't want to have to paint another coat then maybe try 800 grit and be careful around panel lines and edges.

Regarding nozzles a normal spray nozzle won't fit as it's a different action. So if you can't get a better one of the same action, practice with what you have. If you doubt the amount of paint you have left will be enough, try finding a local automotive paint suppler. Most will mix spray cans too and they are on the whole, cheaper and use better quality cans, nozzles and even paint lol.

Ashley

[roymattblack]

TBH, I think sanding it down is going to be a no-no, and will result in a body that might have lost surface detail.

You won't be able to sand 'in' the panel lines, screen surround detail, door gaps etc so when you add more paint, these lines may vanish altogether.

Stripping it is really simple, no effort and it happens when you're asleep!

Sanding will take an age, and make flippin' mess.

Get a can of Mr Muscle oven cleaner, spray the entire shell, stick it in a poly bag and seal it up.

Go to bed.

Tomorrow, under running water scrub the old paint off with a toothbrush. (an old one - unless you fancy metallic green teeth...)

Rinse.

Dry.

Done.

[vontrips]

TBH, I think sanding it down is going to be a no-no, and will result in a body that might have lost surface detail.

You won't be able to sand 'in' the panel lines, screen surround detail, door gaps etc so when you add more paint, these lines may vanish altogether.

Stripping it is really simple, no effort and it happens when you're asleep!

Sanding will take an age, and make flippin' mess.

Get a can of Mr Muscle oven cleaner, spray the entire shell, stick it in a poly bag and seal it up.

Go to bed.

Tomorrow, under running water scrub the old paint off with a toothbrush. (an old one - unless you fancy metallic green teeth...)

Rinse.

Dry.

Done.

Sorry to be the bringer of bad news, but I totally agree! The depth of the paint texture is as deep as the moulded panel lines...sanding back is not an option, IMHO.

[m4rky]

As usual nothing is simple. I put on a thick foaming layer of oven cleaner around 7pm yesterday. Stuck it in a bag overnight.

Had a look this morning and its not touched the paint. It doesn't rub off and the liquid in the bag is still clear.

Grrr... Is this the right stuff to use??

[MetroRacing]

Tbf I've never had any luck with oven cleaner either despite people assertions that it works.

30 mins in white spirit and you should be able to rub the paint off with a cloth.

Don't leave it too long for the plastic will start to warp or even melt lol.

Ashley

[roymattblack]

I'm really surprised.

I've used it in the past and no problems.

Maybe something to do with Holts paint?

The other old standby that works on ANY paint is brake fluid.

Just be sure it isn't one of the newer 'safe' fluids that will say - 'doesn't harm paint'.

Roy.

[colin]

I think some of the oven cleaner formulas have changed, h&s, you need one with a high caustic content to strip paint

[Mal]

I think some of the oven cleaner formulas have changed, h&s, you need one with a high ammonia content to strip paint

I think you mean Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) you can buy caustic soda but I will say it needs to be handled very carefully.

Malcolm

[colin]

My mistake, amended

[m4rky]

First thing this morning I was off down to the local auto paint shop. Bought a different spray can and a clear coat.

Then spent a good hour sanding the body work down as I don't have any white spirit.

I was hoping to just take the colour coat off and leave some primer behind but that was not to be lol.

I also didn't bother sanding the inside as its not really going to be seen.

This is what it looks like now

Now it's time to start again. I'll do a couple of mist coats of primer then try the colour coats:

This was the can I got from halfords. The chap in the auto paint shop said the holts paint wasn't that good and neither were the danvern valves:

[roymattblack]

Remember, even mist coats need to cover without being 'blobby' - if that makes sense.

If each coat builds up a successive layer of blobs, no flood top coat will cover it.

Get it all smooth, every time, and the final top coat should look good.

Roy.