Tamiya AMX-13 French Light Tank

[Fatboydim]

The tracks that come with the kit are the type with rubber track-pads for use on tarmac and hard ground. The colours that Tamiya recommend for painting the tracks are from their own range, the numbers being XF-84 Dark Iron and XF-85 Rubber Black. After looking at the tracks, I decided to leave the rubber area unpainted. I masked these areas with Tamiya masking tape. I intend to paint the remaining area with Mr Metal Color Iron. I've used this paint before and was pleased with the results. When it's dry, I will give the tracks a light rub over with a cotton bud which highlight the raised detail. Later I will weather the tracks with European Mig Pigment. I've not tried this process before, but hopefully it will give me an acceptable finish to the tracks.

The tracks with the rubber area masked with tape.

The canvas cover & the upper mounting strip.

Time permitting, I will add other detail to the upper hull and the turret over the weekend so it will be ready for spraying with the Tamiya AS-14 rattle can early next week.

Thank you for looking, Joe.

[Fatboydim]

I've added as much detail as I could before painting. I've assembled the parts temporarily for the photographs. Next, I will dismantle the parts and begin painting the components. I don't intend to use a primer on the model, I will just spray the final coat straight on.

The storage lockers & wheels will be removed for painting.

The spare wheel & turret will also be removed.

The turret will be broken down to the three main parts. The gun barrel, the upper & lower turret.

Tools & jerry can. These will have a primer applied.

I hope to have the top coat sprayed before the end of the week. I've managed to get some round masking tape disc the same size as the metal rims on the road wheels. This will make painting them a lot easier when I spray the outer section of the wheels rubber black.

Thank you for looking, Joe.

[Antoine]

For that kind of wheels, I did use solid masks, made in plasticard:

[Fatboydim]

For that kind of wheels, I did use solid masks, made in plasticard:

That's a good idea Antoine, thank you. These are the mask I'm going to use.

Round masking disc used to mask wheel hub on a armoured car

[FrancisGL]

This being fine, good trick with wheels, cheers mate

[Fatboydim]

This being fine, good trick with wheels, cheers mate

Thank you Francis. cheers mate.

I sprayed the tracks with the Mr Metal Colour Iron and gave them a buff with a cotton bud. I think the rubber pads may have looked better painted matt black. I will give them a light dusting with a weathering pigment and see how they look after they are attached to the tank.

The pads were left unpainted, masked and the tracks were then sprayed with the Iron colour.

Thanks for looking, Joe.

[FrancisGL]

Look good for now... , cheers Joe

[Gremlin56]

NIce progress Joe, I am rather curious how the concertina join between the two turret halves work (or don't work). Your work is excellent and the build is very enjoyable.

[Fatboydim]

Look good for now... , cheers Joe

Thank you. Cheers Francis.

NIce progress Joe, I am rather curious how the concertina join between the two turret halves work (or don't work). Your work is excellent and the build is very enjoyable.

Thank you Julian. I will take some photos over the next day or so to try and to explain how Tamiya have done it. Once the cover is in place, the barrel becomes static. Joe

[Gremlin56]

Thank you. Cheers Francis.

Thank you Julian. I will take some photos over the next day or so to try and to explain how Tamiya have done it. Once the cover is in place, the barrel becomes static. Joe

I thought that would be the case. Someone will probably come up with an after market rubber or silicone cover to keep things moveable.

Cheers,

Julian

[Fatboydim]

I thought that would be the case. Someone will probably come up with an after market rubber or silicone cover to keep things moveable.

Cheers,

Julian

What an excellent idea Julian. A female mould could be taken from the kit parts, and a silicone cover could be produced from that.

Canvas cover kit parts

[Fatboydim]

Construction details of the Oscillating turret.

The Tamiya instructions for the turret.

The turret parts. The two pins (A21) can be seen temporally in place.

Maximum elevation.

Minimum elevation.

The oscillating turret on the AMX-13 was in two main parts. The upper part featured an integrated gun and cradle, this was elevated as a whole. The lower part functioned as a base.

Thanks for looking, Joe.

[Carius]

Very very nice job for now indeed.

Cheers

[Fatboydim]

Very very nice job for now indeed.

Cheers

Thank you Carius.

I've primed the canvas cover to highlight it against the turret. I've looked on line, and the colour of the cover appears to be the same colour as the tank body. I will paint it in a different olive drab, but I think after the weathering, it could all look much the same colour.

The canvas cover taped into position.

I glued the smoke dischargers onto the turret to make sure they do not foul the cover when it's glued into place. I intend to glue the two side sections in place first, let them dry overnight, then glue on the front section. I will leave the front section in place while I do this to make sure the elevation angle is correct.

The etched part and other details added.

I had originally used the paint straight from the can. I found this worked ok, but I didn't want to put apply too much paint when painting the smaller detailed parts. Also, there appeared to be only a small amount of paint left in the can. I decided I would decant the remainder to see if I could avoid buying another can. Having never done this before, I looked on you tube and found an excellent video on decanting a can of Tamiya paint. The amount left filled a standard Tamiya paint pot. I should have more than enough for the rest of the model.

I had pealed the tracks apart for painting, and glued them back together. To help them remain flat at the joint, I put them under a flat surface with a weight on top. I found this left a nice flat surface for when I mount them back on the wheels.

Tracks left flat over night.

Thanks for looking, Joe.

[FrancisGL]

A good job at the moment ... , cheers Joe

[Fatboydim]

A good job at the moment ... , cheers Joe

Cheers Francis

I've seen post before on Britmodeller about decanting paint, but for anyone who has not seen them, this is the method I used to decant the paint. I found this on you tube and it worked very well for me. I used a plastic tube that fitted over the spray nozzle (a bendy drinking straw works just as well). This was sealed in place with plasticine. I cleaned out an old Tamiya paint jar and put some masking tape over the top. I put two holes in the tape, a large hole one for the tube to go through, and a small hole for the gas to escape. I took the nozzle off the can before shaking the can vigorously. The nozzle was put back on, and I decanted the paint onto the jar.

The plasticine stops any paint from leaking where the tube is joined to the nozzle, the bend in the tube slows down the flow of paint, and the small hole in the masking tape allows the gas to escape.

The propellant is mixed in with the paint and continues to expel after the paint has been decanted. The cap should be loosened now and then to release the build up of gas.

I will use the black paint I decanted to spray the road wheels. This will be the next stage which I will do in the next day or so.

Thanks for looking, Joe.

[FrancisGL]

Curious, what one does not find on YouTube ... not exist ... lol

[Fatboydim]

I've painted all the road wheels. I will leave the wheels to dry overnight before fitting them, and the tracks to the hull. Below is a photo of how I masked the wheels before painting. The wheel rim has a 17mm diameter. I found the 17mm masking dots I had for this would not sit properly owing to the centre wheel hub. Instead, I used 18mm dots. A line was cut from the edge of the dot to the centre, then I laid it around the rim until it overlapped at the point I had began. This raised the masking over the hub allowing the dot to sit properly.

I hope to get the wheels and tracks on tomorrow, then post some photos before putting on the top plate of the hull.

Thanks for looking, Joe.

[FrancisGL]

A craftsman Joe little trick... ,cheers

[Fatboydim]

A craftsman Joe little trick... ,cheers

Cheers Francis

The wheels and tracks have been attached to the hull. I positioned the track join at the rear on top of the Idler wheels as it shows far less in this position. I also positioned the wires between the rubber blocks so they are less obvious. These wires will be given a coat of paint so they will be less noticeable.

The wires positioned between the blocks which will be painted.

The view of the tracks looking from the rear. The track join is on top of the Idler wheel.

Looking from the front of the tank showing the amount of sag in the tracks.

Thanks for looking, Joe.

[FrancisGL]

One question, what kind of use wire, I'm using a coil, it is quite hard, but can be bent, has the advantage that the end leaves you "up or down" with or you can squeeze more the track (more saggy) or less, but the disadvantage that the accuracy (if you are looking) in geometry is or vaguer... , cheers

[Fatboydim]

One question, what kind of use wire, I'm using a coil, it is quite hard, but can be bent, has the advantage that the end leaves you "up or down" with or you can squeeze more the track (more saggy) or less, but the disadvantage that the accuracy (if you are looking) in geometry is or vaguer... , cheers

Hello Francis, the wire I've used is stainless steel locking wire. It's 0.70mm in diameter. It's very strong and will stay in the position that it's bent in. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need me to explain more. Joe

[FrancisGL]

Thanks for the answer, I just like to know how did you manage / bought., cheers mate

[Fatboydim]

Thanks for the answer, I just like to know how did you manage / bought., cheers mate

I use it at work Francis. That's where I got it. Cheers, Joe

[Gremlin56]

Nice way to add the required sag in the tracks Joe, I'll have to remember that trick