Spitfire Duo Build MK1a

[robvulcan]

Another coat of duck egg blue blown mostly into centre of panels and then overcoated lightly overall. Looking better now IMO.

 

now for a beer ! Cheers Rob

 

 

 

 

Edited June 29, 2019 by robvulcan

[CedB]

Looking very smart Rob  

[robvulcan]

10 minutes ago, CedB said:

Looking very smart Rob  

Cheer Ced mate. I’m trying to decide if to give it another light mist over but I’m liking the dirty look so far  decisions decisions..  

[robvulcan]

Colours 

Under flash 

 

im really liking h86 for this as it’s a little lighter and has the greeny brown tone going for it I think as this is 1/72 it will work well. I used to like it 20 years ago so let’s see how it turns out.

h30 still looks ok for certain ww2 raf but I still think it looks more like a soviet colour.  

The rest are all in the ball park for your usual dark brown green raf colour but pheonix seems to be between the h86 and the rest of the raf greens.

 

The other think I’ve noticed is that Humbrol Enamels are a different shade to the acrylics and I’d say more accurate in terms of both h163,86,30 in acrylic form they tend to be too green.  

 

We modellers are lucky to have so much choice these days. 

 

Another thing to note the pheonix paints has the best smell and reminded me of old enamels. Blast from the past.

[robvulcan]

 

I have decided the lower surfaces are fine now it’s dry so onto the masking for the next colour  

[robvulcan]

Masking done 

 

 

A little more preshading where it needs to be 

 

 

now let’s see if this old Humbrol 29 does its job.

 

 

Cheers Rob  

[robvulcan]

The old humbrol 29 went on like a dream. 

 

Now for the green.

 

 

 

 

blue tak at the ready or as mad Prince George would say “sausage time !” 

 

[robvulcan]

Masking for a B Type Scheme.

 

 

 

 

 

 

for this Spit I have gone with HU86 for a few reasons 1. Nostalgia I always used it when I was a kid and 20 years on I wanna see what it looks like now. 2. I think it might be a good compromise between HU30 and 163 for a worn green. 

I will use different colours on the next one to give a comparison. 

 

Chees Rob  

[robvulcan]

Sausages off. 

 

The new Humbrol formulation performs well but it is not the same as the old stuff and does not take as well to the lighter fluid. It’s also greener than that I remember I must find an old tin of HU86 and compare them.

that said I’m happy so far  

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers Rob  

[robvulcan]

All the underwing masks off and I’m happy with a pint of Northern Monk Patrons Project. Wonderful  

Now it’s dry I’m very happy with the HU86 it’s balacned perfectly with the HU29 and 90.

And as I used to use this back in the day I’m happy to see my Dads selection of HU86 paid off.

After all he grew up seeing the real thing in action.

As I’m making this for him it’s perrfect for that reason alone.  

 

 

 

cheers Rob  

 

Edited June 30, 2019 by robvulcan

[Cookenbacher]

That's looking great Rob!

[CedB]

Seconded! 

[Biggles87]

Thirded!

[robvulcan]

Cheers Chaps. Hopefully any touch ups done and some Klear added for the decals.

then it’s jsut the prop and wheels etc to do

[robvulcan]

On to the prop then. 

 

 

 

[robvulcan]

 

the new Humbrol 154 is fine but I found an old tin and well it’s a better coverage wise.

[robvulcan]

I’ve been applying diluted klear with a sponge and built up a few layers then I’ll add decals and add more before the weathering and varnish stage. 

Love the colours on this so much. The way the green shifts in different lights is great and contrasts the brown nicely. Humbrol 86,29,90

 

 

 

 

cheers Rob

 

 

Edited July 1, 2019 by robvulcan

[robvulcan]

Ok so it’s prop masking time and small parts painting stage.

 

I made small pieces of Tamiya tape placed in line with the prop tip and folded it over itself each side around the back left then right. Squeezed down the edges and put a blob of blue tak on the ends then sprayed with an even older Humbrol matt 33 black which was the best paint I’ve sprayed so far. Went on very nicely and super fine. Don’t make em like they used too.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I sprayed up the various small parts in hu90 

 

 

Then I mixed 10 drops copper 8 drops gunmetal for the exhausts and sprayed.

 

 

Cheers Rob

 

 

[azureglo]

Hey Rob good to see a fellow axe spanker back and in action. I knocked out one of these recently in a few days, must say they are inordinately good fun for a a few penn'orth of plastic Incidentally BM is good place for we guitar folk, @lasermonkey not only IDed one of my Big Muffs as worth up to four figures, he's a wee bit of techie with pedals and like in general, good to know for those in pursuit of the "tone".

 

Respect for using the Humbrol, I have many unopened tins that do sterling service as large munitions for slug control.... 

 

Anil

[robvulcan]

21 hours ago, azureglo said:

Hey Rob good to see a fellow axe spanker back and in action. I knocked out one of these recently in a few days, must say they are inordinately good fun for a a few penn'orth of plastic Incidentally BM is good place for we guitar folk, @lasermonkey not only IDed one of my Big Muffs as worth up to four figures, he's a wee bit of techie with pedals and like in general, good to know for those in pursuit of the "tone".

 

Respect for using the Humbrol, I have many unopened tins that do sterling service as large munitions for slug control.... 

 

Anil

Hey Azureglo yep there certainly seems to be plenty of music and Guitar folk on here.

 

Ive never played through a big muff illl have to one day. One of my faves to play through (not a pedal) is the Carvin X100b amp.

I picked one up recently for £50 amazing amp ! 

 

Ive always loved Humbrol paints but also use anything I like variety so don’t stick to one thing. But I have used Humbrol constantly though my Modelling rarely with a problem.

 

cheers Rob  

[robvulcan]

 

getting there  

[Cookenbacher]

That's lovely Rob, and I'm stealing your recipe for painting the exhausts, and the use of blu-tack on the tip of the props.

[robvulcan]

2 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

That's lovely Rob, and I'm stealing your recipe for painting the exhausts, and the use of blu-tack on the tip of the props.

 

Thanks mate. Go for it. I have no idea how effective its going to be and needs more work still.

Just my experimenting at doing the exhausts, I see they are often brick red or black or gun metal but often have this odd colour shift going on.

 

Cheers Rob

[robvulcan]

I’ve been decalling this and it’s taking a while.

I decided to use Xtradecal sheet X72075 and finish it at QJP N3249 from 92 Sqn. 

The decals are mostly excellent but I must have a duff sheet as some of the decals where breaking up which I’ve never had before from Xtradecal. It is only the fin flashes that have been very delicate so far.

luckily I have another sheet from them which matches colour and I’m making up little bits of decal to help remedy this. 

 

 

I have now ran into one problem. I usually rattle can finish most my models in recent years with spray varnish from Humbrol or Tamiya. 

However they have always been brushed in acrylic or lacquer paint and sealed with klear or entirely rattle can jobs. 

 

I have only recently gone back to using enamel now I’m using an airbrush again as for the past decade I’ve been only brushing or spray painting.

 

The trouble is I’m fairly sure that rattle cans will crumble up the enamel paint and react.

 

So I’m looking for recommendations for a suitable varnish that is matt compatible with enamels that preferably won’t yellow. 

I have considered Precsion Paints Matt Varnish as I want a tough finish. 

 

Cheers Rob  

[rob85]

Ah! This is the duo! Some very nice work Rob, looks excellent with the decals on.

 

Rob