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MFH 1/12 BT52B


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ok - final pictures for now - honest.
Bit of a break as I head back home to Europe for a road trip in the Caterham, down through France, take in some Swiss passes, then Maranello for a factory tour, then Tuscany - can't wait to drive the 7 again!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right - back on this...
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Started some wiring, though I'll do most when it is a bit more installed, as I don't want to damage any parts by snagging long wires hanging off.
The MFH wires are a bit stiff - I may use some fine tubing or lead, and paint.

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Primed the next lot of parts, and started some chassis work...

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answer coming


Some good progress at the weekend...continued work on the gearbox and rear suspension, and getting ready to carbon-fibre the chassis tub...

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The gloss black chassis will be completely covered with carbon decals - not sure about the rivets - I guess you decal then press through the decal with the rivet into the holes I drilled?

Having lost my phone I didn't take many photos of steps (maybe not a bad thing!) but I will take some pictures in the light box once I have sorted a few more details...

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Everything just placed in position...

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Credit to MFH manufacturing - once I tightened everything up the suspension looks to be in perfect alignment - in fact the only issue is with one of those stub axles - I didn't open up the hole accurately enough and one is at a slight angle - I may have fun with that at a later date...

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Some bits to add...

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Glad you are back. Love your build a lot. Got a question is it suitable for a modeller with no experience on this type of kit to build it??

Obviously with no idea of peoples various skills...

...these MFH kits (I guess the new ones are even better than older ones) seem to go together very very well.

Everything in one box (you don't need to add detail kits, fittings etc - though you can) and ready to go.

The threads you see on here are all kits I have started in the last 6 months or so, and are my first multi-media kits. I'm hooked - mainly because of the 1/12 subject matter.

I've not really got to the bodywork stuff yet - the biggest challenge I think is the painting and decal work - but the engines go together so well.

Yes, there is prep work to do that you don't tend to have with plastic kits - but the main thing with that is time, not skill.

With some files, maybe a dremel, fine drills and super glue you are off!

If nothing else I hope my threads encourage someone else to try them. They are expensive - yes. Hours/$$ of enjoyment value is huge though.

Absolutely try one. Find a subject matter you are passionate about - I love the new Ferrari 512 kit - but just not grabbing me to invest...

Then just tackle each part as a little sub-unit model. Like I have done with the engine. Take your time, clean each part (after sorting) - most only need a light file where the sprue/casting lines are.

I like the 1/12 scale - the skills involved in making the smaller kits must be higher IMO.

No doubt the price puts people off (totally understand that) but in terms of actually making the kit - I have to say they are not difficult. The more time you put in, the more you will get out - but you could probably assemble the model itself (no paint,finishing etc) in a few days.

Go for it!!

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i hope so for your sake :)

am soon starting the Yardley M23, and currently accumulating extras from Hiro and al. for detailing the DFV.

Am sure i'll be knocking sooner than later on your door in a month or so for advise. As Codger pointed your assembly is super crisp & clean

Edited by sharknose156
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Some more progress - the carbon decals (once cut out from the template - which you must photocopy as it is double sided!) went on very well. The close up pictures show a bit of wrinkling at the very top of the roll hoop, which bothers me - hopefully when there is more detail on the kit it will distract from them!

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I sprayed the tub with some matt Tamiya spray to protect the finish. I over did it slightly which led to some 'cracking' - but a light coat when the first had dried made these disappear.

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You can see the holes drilled beneath,where the rivets will go. I made sure to press the decal so these would be visible. On this part of the chassis, the rivets look black, so I will partially insert them, and then paint the heads darker. I think I am going to use some MFH 'turned' rivets rather then the white-metal cast ones that come with the kit...

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I think some of the carbon decals I have seen for kits looks vastly over-scale, but I think this one looks pretty good.

The inevitable mock-up!

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Prepared and sprayed lots of bits last night, so should be able to assemble some more stuff tonight...

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The pedals are all mounted onto a 'floor' sub-assembly. It is all semi-gloss black, so I will use a little 'weathering' to bring out some highlights - although again - once the top of the chassis is fixed on, none of this will be visible!

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You can just see where I used some Tamiya weathering silver to bring out some edges and definition. Wanted it subtle as I am not really 'weathering' the car...

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You can see the silver on the pedals.

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This then slips into the front of the chassis tub...

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Subtle highlighting...

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This picture below highlights the quality of these current MFH castings (it is one piece white metal) - that bolt-head detail is less than a mm in diameter...
If it was going to be at all visible, I might have swapped it for a 'detail' machined part - but actually, it is so crisp already that I am not sure it would even be needed...

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Looks great. In cases where you swap out cast bolts for real ones, how do you remove the cast bolts? Is the metal soft enough that sprue cutters work or do you use a knife? I have only done this on plastic kits and have no experience with white metal

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The metal is very soft - you can carefully cut - or slice - small pieces away with a scalpel - you just need to be really careful not to slip and mark the surrounding metal.

Or you can drill them out if mounted under a pillar drill, or cut using a dremel. But then you have to use a tiny punch (or a nail!) to make a small pilot hole/dimple so you can then drill a hole centrally.

Sprue cutters would certainly work - but you'd still have to remove that little point it would leave.

I find the metal really easy to work with - its probably actually softer than the plastic! It files and sands really well...

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