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Revell 1:72 Fokker E.III OTB


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I have really got the bug for these tiny WW1 fighters. I cant wait to finish the last before I start the next. Here is my effort on the Fokker E.III as flown by Vizefeldwebel Ernst Udet, Kampfeinsitzerkommando Habsheim, Western Front, Winter 1915/16. Once again, straight from the box. Hope you enjoy the pictures.

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Rotary engine ready to go on.

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Then more masking

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White bit sprayed. I'm getting more used to this airbrush now and really enjoying the finish. Still far from perfect and constant messing with it.

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Yay! Another convert to the dark side of WWI aircraft! Looking good too, the Revell kit nay be basic but it gives a pretty good impression if the real thing...unlike their MoS type N......

Ian

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Yay! Another convert to the dark side of WWI aircraft! Looking good too, the Revell kit nay be basic but it gives a pretty good impression if the real thing...unlike their MoS type N......

Ian

Cheers mate :-)

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IMG_4969_zpshsnarvsz.jpg

Holes Drilled and Decals on, time to start rigging. I'm using 0.20mm 5.6lb monofilament for this one instead of stretched sprue. I weathered it first with a coffee coloured oil wash and cotton wool buds.

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To paint the rigging, or not to paint....

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Painting props: I apply an orangey-beigey base like Humbrol 63. When that's totally - several days - dry I take a hard brush with large stiff bristles - you get them from artshops, they are good for cleaning, weathering tanks, annoying the cat - and apply Humbrol 62, a red leather colour (other brands are available). The secret is, don't mix the paint. Just gather up a blob of pigment and a dose of the solvent and smear it along the prop. The thick bristles and uneven pigment distribution give a neat wood grain effect and it can be shifted about if necessary with more solvent from the tin. Leave to dry - it takes a while longer because you didn't mix the paint. Apply a gloss coat to seal, perhaps with a drop of orange in it. For larger scale props the same technique works, but I use a second darker colour, usually Xtracolor Signalbraun (RAL8002) for extra depth. Works for me!

Edited by TallBlondJohn
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Looking good!

I use a similar method for wood: base coat of a light beige colour (radome tan works well), then I use an acrylic leather colour, not properly stirred so it doesn't cover completely, and apply it with a small flat tipped brush. If possible just one stroke from end to end of each blade. Then when it's all dry, a coat of Tamiya clear orange - that's the real key to getting the wood look!

You might also want to go a little thinner with the monofilament. 2lb test is still a little overscale but looks great and is still easy to work with. The thinner you go, the easier it is to get the lines taught with no curve just as it enters the wing.

Ian

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Painting props: I apply an orangey-beigey base like Humbrol 63. When that's totally - several days - dry I take a hard brush with large stiff bristles - you get them from artshops, they are good for cleaning, weathering tanks, annoying the cat - and apply Humbrol 62, a red leather colour (other brands are available). The secret is, don't mix the paint. Just gather up a blob of pigment and a dose of the solvent and smear it along the prop. The thick bristles and uneven pigment distribution give a neat wood grain effect and it can be shifted about if necessary with more solvent from the tin. Leave to dry - it takes a while longer because you didn't mix the paint. Apply a gloss coat to seal, perhaps with a drop of orange in it. For larger scale props the same technique works, but I use a second darker colour, usually Xtracolor Signalbraun (RAL8002) for extra depth. Works for me!

Thanks so much for that John, I will give it a go my friend. :thumbsup:

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As Limeypilot says, stroke along each blade. My favourite brush's thick bristles create several fine parrallel-ish stripes of varying thickness and colour in one go, but other brushes may need multiple strokes. Remember to re-'varnish' the wood after you dull coat the finished model.

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Looking good!

I use a similar method for wood: base coat of a light beige colour (radome tan works well), then I use an acrylic leather colour, not properly stirred so it doesn't cover completely, and apply it with a small flat tipped brush. If possible just one stroke from end to end of each blade. Then when it's all dry, a coat of Tamiya clear orange - that's the real key to getting the wood look!

You might also want to go a little thinner with the monofilament. 2lb test is still a little overscale but looks great and is still easy to work with. The thinner you go, the easier it is to get the lines taught with no curve just as it enters the wing.

Ian

Thanks so much Ian and John,

All great advice and I am certainly learning plenty by being on here. Some of the work that you are all doing is absolutely amazing! I am becoming quite obsessed with these little WW1 fighters and I need to make some other things as well now lol.

Thanks again.

Dean

P.S.

Does anyone know how/if one can change your user name on here as mine should be Stonemonkey lol

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