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1/18 Ferrari 333SP, Daytona 24hrs 1998

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thx H, so nice to see a reaction in my WIP ^_^


Update :


I had covered the dashboard with these decals :




But the real car has a different type of carbon, so I scraped them off and replaced them with these :




Spent a couple of hours fiddling with some tiny parts, like these :




Those are very tiny open rivets, outer diameter : 0,8mm, inner : 0,6mm, length : 2,2mm.


Three are visible in this photo, together with some other small parts :




These will become the 2 handles that are attached to the center console :




Dryfit of the first handle, it contains 5 tiny parts :









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Work continues on the second handle. Here's a dryfit with the tube that runs to the back of the cockpit :


I made the little ball (1,2 mm diameter) from a piece of alu sewing needle, total length of the handle is 7mm.


Dryfit with the triangular base :


The macro pictures show that the copper tubes (0,6 mm diameter) are not aligned, this has been changed after the picture was taken :


The handle is adjustable :







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Nice attention to detail Pascal! I know that these are pretty small parts and then to make them actually work is probably more than I would be able to do! 

Your Pocher F40 truly is just a platform and a starting point for this build which, really is a one of a kind! Great work so far, I can't wait to see this one get finished. But, it's a fun build to watch as it comes together.

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Thx guys !


After fiddling with the tiny parts, I'm glad to work on something a lot bigger.


Hotwheels made the side windows like this :


Doesn't look to bad, but they've made the diagonal tube and the window as 1 piece. This wont allow me to paint the tube red, unless I do it the Hotwheels way and paint part of the window ?!

On the real car the side windows look like this :



(Pictures for reference only)

Hard to see in the pictures, but the bottom of the window is fitted to the inside of the body, and the top of the window is fitted to a strip that's attached to the underside of the tube.


This gave me quite a few headaches, but I found a way ...

Start with the Hotwheels part  :


Introduce it to my Dremel :


Use the milling machine to mill a channel in a plastic tube :


Glue a plastic strip inside the channel (the holes for the rivets will be drilled later) :


And do a dryfit :



Still plenty of work to get the shape and details of the tube and frame right, but I'm very happy that it turned out OK.

Arrivederci ragazzi.


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  • 5 months later...



No matter how much detail you add to a model, the thing that will always draw everyone's attention is the body.


Spend a lot of hour getting the fit between the engine lid and the body as tight as possible. The tiny gaps that are still there will be filled by the primer, paint and clear coats :






I didn't like the way Hotwheels fixed the big plastic airscoop to the body.  It was sealed to the body using heat, but it was fixed about 1,5 mm to far aft.


I did quite a few modifications to the plastic airscoop (it's black plastic) and glued it in place. Then followed a couple of rounds of putty and sanding. It needs a bit more sanding to smooth out the gaps :




Removal of more unwanted zamac.


Before :




And after :




Small update, but the result of endless dryfitting and modifying.





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She's looking superb, Pascal. Don't worry too much about any panel gaps.....even the newest F1 or proto's tape all the panel seams up for a fast or qualy run! That's the "get out of jail free" card for you!:D


Keep up the good work!


Cheers, H

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thx Harvey !


Update :

The 333SP has a diagonal bar that sits in front of the big airscoop :






Hotwheels made this bar run thru the airscoop in stead of in front of it. First task was to plug the hole :




Then remove enough plastic to make room for the bar :




I drilled a hole on the left side, made the strange contraption that holds the bar on the right side :




Looks rough, needs some filler and sanding :




Dryfit with the new bar :





This (the clear part) is all that remains of the original Hotwheels side-window, I used my mill to make a ledge that will hold the new side-window :











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Looks good to me, Pascal.

You've done some brilliant work, especially having to work that horrible Zamac crap. Keep the faith though, mate....   you'll have a stunning replica when done!!

I'm very impressed by your achievements,...……...keep it up, sir!!


Cheers, H

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  • 2 months later...

I hope to have more free time in 2019, really would like to finish this build this year.


One of the things that make this car unique are the vertical "fins" that are located just behind the front wheels :




The fins come with this little PE-set  from Legende Miniatures  :




There's no way I can glue these little pieces of flat PE to the body. So I soldered a couple of metal strips to the top and bottom :






To hold the metal pieces in place, I clamped them on a piece of aluminium plate that was bend in a 90° angle.

This way it was just a matter of putting some flux and solder on the joint, use the "creme brulee" torch and voila : a solid bond :




Dryfit on the  body :






At the rear the shocks are attached to a "kidney" shaped piece of black plastic.

The rod ends and tubes that I made earlier were to big, I couldn't fit them on the rear suspension without hitting the driveshaft.

This time I used a tube of smaller diameter (about half of the first version) and soldered a tiny brass ring to a piece of copper wire to make the rod ends.

I'll have to make a couple more cause the copper wire is not in the middle of the brass ring :




The kidney shaped part received another hole, this will hold a hexgonal bolt :




Turned the lid (3mm diameter) from an aluminium rod with my lathe :




A dryfit shows the hexagonal bolt in the lid. The head of the bolt is 1mm wide, but's it's to big. I will replace it with a 0,8mm bolt :




In the end, it should look like this :






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Good to see you back Pascal! I see that we both are looking for some more time this year to get back to the Ferrari's! Your idea of clamping the PE to aluminum plate made me think about something. When you solder the PE with the aluminum plate under it, am I correct in assuming the solder will only stick to the PE and not the aluminum? If so, then, I know how I'm going to finish off the hose clamps on the transkit. I can put a thin strip of aluminum between the folded section and only solder the side of the clamp and then slide out the aluminum strip and still have the opening for the rest of the clamp to go through without closing up the opening with solder or super glue.

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Yay! Some of my favourite projects coming back to life. Welcome back!


I built the BBR/Project 43 333SP a while back and it too has those 'fins' aft of the front wheels. Thank goodness for photoetch is all I can say. I look forward to seeing more of this one. Did I say I adore the 333SP? I think I probably did, several times. :)

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2 hours ago, Sabrejet said:

Yay! Some of my favourite projects coming back to life. Welcome back!

I couldn't have said it better myself!:D

Good to see you back at the bench Pascal...great work as always.

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Thank you gentlemen, much appreciated.


Yes Wayne, you are correct. Aluminium (or aluminum) will not stick to solder. It's a cheap and handy way of holding parts in place that you want to solder.





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  • 1 year later...

Update :


After months and months of headscratching, I've finally found a way to attach the kidney shaped parts to the gearbox.


They need to be fixed to the gearbox at exactly the spot where there's a hole for the screw that attaches the gearbox to the chassis.


I've trimmed a plastic part of an old aircraft kit so that it fits in the hole, the copper tube will hold that part in place while I drill the holes :




Here I've drilled the first hole and inserted a piece of brass tubing that will hold the kidney shaped part in place :




Dryfit :








Not a lot of clearance between the diagonal torsion bar and the suspension arms, but the real car looks exactly the same :




I'm really happy that I've finally found a solution, now I can move on with this project.






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Good to see you back on this build Pascal! It’s starting to feel like we’re getting the band back together here on the forum!! It’s funny that, after being off a build for a while; all of a sudden a solution presents itself! 👍

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Pascal, good to see you returning to this. Your pictures always present your solutions perfectly. I find all of your topics paired with your unending knowledge in all things Ferrari most educational.

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  • 3 months later...

Thank you gentlemen !


Spent a lot of hours fiddeling ...


After endless dryfiting, I found the solution to the problem : I moved a hole in the gearbox a bit more to the front :


Lousy pic, but it shows the old and new hole (barely)


A copper tube will be fitted in the new hole, this will serve as an attachment for a piece that's part of the suspension  :




I added some tiny parts to the gearbox (triangles, strips, circles, etc) :






Made 4 of these with the lathe, they will attach the exhaust tubes to the exhaust :






Dryfit  :








It was a lot of work, but I'm happy that it went well.





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Pascal - Thank you for posting.  My model building is "paint by numbers" in comparison.  The exhaust headers are phenomenal.  Watching you work is inspiring. 


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  • 1 month later...

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