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1/18 Ferrari 333SP, Daytona 24hrs 1998

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Pascal, I somehow missed this build when you started in 2016.  Really great stuff that you are doing here.  The mix of building materials (brass, copper, plastic, etc) is interesting and informative.



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Thx guys


Just when I thought that things couldn't get any crazier.....


I wasn't happy with the shocks that I made earlier :




It's a very pretty shock, but the ones on the real 333 SP are different :




So I fired up my lathe and made this out of a piece of brass rod. The hole in the middle is drilled off-center, that's because the eye bolts that I'm using are also off-center.

With both parts being off-center, I can turn them untill they are dead-center :




These are the parts that I made, these are for 1 shock :




The only thing missing are the rings that have 6 tiny blocks (with a hole in each block), but I'm not sure if I'm able to make these as they are very, VERY small.





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6 hours ago, Pascal said:

The only thing missing are the rings that have 6 tiny blocks (with a hole in each block), but I'm not sure if I'm able to make these as they are very, VERY small.


A suggestion by the amateur machinist that I am (so please anyone correct me if you feel my method is not logical / not good for whatever reason)... this is how I'd try making those parts. 





To be sure, these are the texts:


"Only turn this bit."


"1. Turn on lathe, to diameter of disk. This equals maximum diameter of the reel-shaped part you already made."


"2a. If you do not have a milling machine + dividing head, index* your lathe spindle into 60 degrees intervals (60-120-180-240-0) which isn't a bad idea also generally, in case you want to easily make hexes at one point in time. Instead of hexes, carefully drill the six (?) recesses, using a multitool."

"*Indexing: simply (but at the exact correct intervals) carving markers into the lathe's spindle, or using stickers."


"2b. If you do have a head mill + dividing head, drill six (?) recesses into the metal. Best to position the dividing head horizontally."


"3. Either using a multitool (after 2a.) or using a dividing head (after 2b.), drill small holes into the metal. Best to position the dividing head vertically (my drawing is therefore wrong)."


"4. If you dare, drill a center hole, either using the milling machine or the lathe tail stock. If you fear this might weaken or damage the part, you would have to solder / glue it to the rest of the shock absorber, rather than 'lace it on'."


"5. Finally, cut off the part."




All this applies to the chassis-side part. At the other side of the shock there's a similar looking part that has a taper. The same method as described could be used, after the taper has been turned. The tapered shape could be made either by changing the angle of the lathe crosslide versus the lathe bed, or by simply using a cutting tool in such way that it cuts the taper correctly. I'd definitely prefer that latter method as it is much faster and simpler. 


All of this would be easiest if you had a chuck that you could use between lathe and milling machine, without having to remove the workpiece from that chuck throughout the 1-5 step plan process. I'd use a collet chuck for attempting this job. 


Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the help Roy. I'll give it a try on a piece of plastic tube.


As an alternative, I think I'll try modifying one of these :




The material is neusilber, and these nuts look like a good starting point.

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A quick dryfit to take some photos. Total length is just under 2 cm, the shock has 7 parts :








Looks a bit rough, but it will become smooth once it's polished, glued and painted.





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This is wonderful, creative scratch building at a very high level!    Enjoying every post  and although I don't often comment I'm watching!!



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  • 3 months later...

Thank you very much Frank, I really appreciate your comments.


Thx guys, time for a little update. It's only a small update, but it's the result of a lot of fiddling.


Third version of the shocks, the diameter of the spring is a little bigger :


Better then the second version, but then came the forth version :



Not there yet, but with some bending of the spring (which is very hard to do) it will turn out ok.

Made 2 small triangles from plasticard and glued them to the brass bars :


The rough edges simulate welding, not much will be seen after the wheels are mounted, but it makes a solid base for the diagonal rod :


Till next time.






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Thx ^_^ 


Parts from rbmotion are very nice.


A small update, but it's the result of a couple of days work.


Made some VERY small rings with the lathe. Outer diameter is 2,8mm




In this picture you can see a triangular shaped, grey colored part (bottom right of picture) :




Took a couple of hours to replicate it from plasticard. I'm still debating if I will add the slit in the bottom :




A copper tube will hold it in place :




A dryfit on the gearbox :






Judging from the super macro pictures, it still needs a bit of TLC.






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Thx guys !


In the previous update, the triangular piece was fitted in the wrong way. The brass ring is supposed to be on the inside.


Made another small aluminium ring with the lathe (and fitted the brass ring on the inside of the triangular piece) :




Dryfit (the outside of the triangular piece will be detailled later on :











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  • 4 weeks later...

Been a while since the last update. Had to make a part of the shocks again (must be the 5th or 6th time).


For my earlier versions, I used modified eyebolts. This time I used my lathe to cut small brass rings (2,5 mm diameter, 0,9 mm thickness)


I soldered a piece of brass tube to the rings, this piece of tube is inserted into a piece of copper tube, then the assembly is inserted into the conical part of the shocks.


The previous (eyebolt) version is at the bottom, the new assembly is on top :




The ring is less thick then the eyebolt and the eye is larger :




Used my lathe to make the "barrel" that's visible in the middle of this photo :


(for reference only)


And made a small aluminium ring that sits on top of the barrel. The ring will be held in place with a M1 hexagonal bolt.

The ring is not fixed to the barrel yet, just a dryfit for the photos :









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  • 1 month later...

Made a couple more really small parts. Started with a brass hexagonal rod, drilled a hole with the lathe, then cut them to shape with the lathe :



Got some tips from a fellow modeller (Roy vd M.). I made these 4 mm rings.Started with a piece of brass rod, drilled a hole in the middle and with the mill I made 6 tiny cutouts in the rings.


Finally the rings were cut off with the lathe :




Dryfit on the shock :




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  • 3 months later...

Been busy making very small parts.
This construction is made with 5 pieces of plasticard and tubing. On the actual car, it holds the bracket for the large rear wing :
It also serves as a mount for another part :
With the lathe, I made a new connector for the driveshaft :
Dryfit :

Made a new airjack. The rings and lid were made with the lathe :
Hotwheels has moulded this piece of tubing to the cockpit :
Ugly as hell, so I made a new one with a sewing needle :
Dryfit :
The cockpit floor received some plastic strips. I also made an oval-shaped hole for the wires to go thru :

The largest hole in the middle of the dashboard, will get a knob :
The knob is made from brass, a small ring will be added to the back of the knob :
Luckily, I dont have to make the switches :
A nice bottle of Jacob's Creek Chardonnay, gave me this piece of lead :
The lead was used to make a tray (2 x 2,3 x 4 mm) for the circuitbreakers :
The engine got some extra details :


Tiny parts are hard to photograph :

Lots of work, but great fun to do !

Edited by Pascal
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Good to see you back and working on this interesting build. Even though we're building similar cars, both being 1/8 variants of the F40, yours is far deeper into the realm of scratch building than mine. If I have to scratch build anything it's because I screwed up. However, I do enjoy watching what you are doing and it does give me ideas and alternatives for making parts that I'm not happy with in the transkit. I will be stealing, err taking notes on your interior since mine will be a sort of racing version too. Albeit not the full on race version your purpose built race car is.

Keep up the good work, you know I'll always be watching for the next update.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thx guys !


Been fighting for 2 days with the carbon decals from Tuner Model Manufactory. These decals are terrible.


They're very hard, wont stick to plastic (unpainted, painted, varnished, ...) and are immune to Microscale Set & Sol.


I've fixed them in place with Parket Plus (Sols). The pictures clearly show the gloss of the P+, this will be toned down with a satin or matt clearcoat.

This picture shows a large, uneven strip running almost the entire length of the cockpit. With the naked eye this strip looks just like the strip on the real car :


Looks terrible, but will be better after the weathering :


The dashboard has also been wrapped in carbon fibre, some edges still need to be cut :


Used my Dremel to make the 4 tiny fuses and the connector that will be fixed to the left side of the dashboard  :






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