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Pascal

1/18 Ferrari 333SP, Daytona 24hrs 1998

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Thx H, so nice to see a reaction in my WIP ^_^

 

Update :

 

I had covered the dashboard with these decals :

 

0f4a4c282ce05f1deb007eaa5c39952d.jpg

 

But the real car has a different type of carbon, so I scraped them off and replaced them with these :

 

3675874c5d35225a7db9b226251fefb1.jpg

 

Spent a couple of hours fiddling with some tiny parts, like these :

 

9ebb0a62f4d2917241ed42bb75bfbcc0.jpg

 

Those are very tiny open rivets, outer diameter : 0,8mm, inner : 0,6mm, length : 2,2mm.

 

Three are visible in this photo, together with some other small parts :

 

fce4c39b5e15dfcbc13146ffb3e8faeb.jpg

 

These will become the 2 handles that are attached to the center console :

 

14b5779818f110d5c602bcd241889189.jpg

 

Dryfit of the first handle, it contains 5 tiny parts :

 

9b1572331dfacac55f81c06b54fcb323.jpg

 

f5dfd437e6913dba6a412129c99fe440.jpg

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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Work continues on the second handle. Here's a dryfit with the tube that runs to the back of the cockpit :


6aa95537746c876c2e143a1169a1a75b.jpg

I made the little ball (1,2 mm diameter) from a piece of alu sewing needle, total length of the handle is 7mm.

 

Dryfit with the triangular base :


6220a6df0282be6b0bbb7623779b4de2.jpg

The macro pictures show that the copper tubes (0,6 mm diameter) are not aligned, this has been changed after the picture was taken :

d12eb82e84ea42a65f3aac6f0856d4ef.jpg

The handle is adjustable :

c2810c7f22df80ed463532a669afba91.jpg

9d137bbfbe35a7d18cfb9b8a0e1754c4.jpg

5545ebeaa7fabc21be8898f9cf05a3f4.jpg

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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Nice attention to detail Pascal! I know that these are pretty small parts and then to make them actually work is probably more than I would be able to do! 

Your Pocher F40 truly is just a platform and a starting point for this build which, really is a one of a kind! Great work so far, I can't wait to see this one get finished. But, it's a fun build to watch as it comes together.

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Thx guys !

 

After fiddling with the tiny parts, I'm glad to work on something a lot bigger.

 

Hotwheels made the side windows like this :

0eb98647f12c6b595fdcbc1994be3e14.jpg

Doesn't look to bad, but they've made the diagonal tube and the window as 1 piece. This wont allow me to paint the tube red, unless I do it the Hotwheels way and paint part of the window ?!

On the real car the side windows look like this :

ab8eaff7eaa9cab8b4635e9478140f95.jpg

b089412f523f8098d516c7fc53238548.jpg

b6e267156a12219b78f960ac44e8a5d5.jpg
(Pictures for reference only)

Hard to see in the pictures, but the bottom of the window is fitted to the inside of the body, and the top of the window is fitted to a strip that's attached to the underside of the tube.

 

This gave me quite a few headaches, but I found a way ...

Start with the Hotwheels part  :

a9aa39057b7281e127d0c79325d4917d.jpg

Introduce it to my Dremel :

d68249ab27084104ff48208147496900.jpg

Use the milling machine to mill a channel in a plastic tube :

5c65f4ed55a0055f8305191f0c1b9395.jpg

Glue a plastic strip inside the channel (the holes for the rivets will be drilled later) :

586ad623e9bf0dbd95c02786a2ba35dd.jpg

And do a dryfit :

09f501ebc0704cbabd04561f6fb85ccd.jpg

eb26d2c01d728f29166c8478eca562a9.jpg

Still plenty of work to get the shape and details of the tube and frame right, but I'm very happy that it turned out OK.

Arrivederci ragazzi.

Pascal

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A masterclass in detailing, this... 

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great job on the window. much better

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Update.

 

No matter how much detail you add to a model, the thing that will always draw everyone's attention is the body.

 

Spend a lot of hour getting the fit between the engine lid and the body as tight as possible. The tiny gaps that are still there will be filled by the primer, paint and clear coats :

 

60ff9db93907622432598ab6f30c34f8.jpg

 

162a50f733cdcaf7807e8944bad5e427.jpg

 

I didn't like the way Hotwheels fixed the big plastic airscoop to the body.  It was sealed to the body using heat, but it was fixed about 1,5 mm to far aft.

 

I did quite a few modifications to the plastic airscoop (it's black plastic) and glued it in place. Then followed a couple of rounds of putty and sanding. It needs a bit more sanding to smooth out the gaps :

 

4fb7dd8df9d4c8c5aa1b7fc7bc97697e.jpg

 

Removal of more unwanted zamac.

 

Before :

 

4055b8b2661a56d3f6738ffb05e20c00.jpg

 

And after :

 

4d02a08be61bffd6a136cd656354c767.jpg

 

Small update, but the result of endless dryfitting and modifying.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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She's looking superb, Pascal. Don't worry too much about any panel gaps.....even the newest F1 or proto's tape all the panel seams up for a fast or qualy run! That's the "get out of jail free" card for you!:D

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Cheers, H

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Thx Harvey !

 

Update :

The 333SP has a diagonal bar that sits in front of the big airscoop :

 

b6e267156a12219b78f960ac44e8a5d5.jpg

 

ba529a6380def3674448f33db6fd61d0.jpg

 

Hotwheels made this bar run thru the airscoop in stead of in front of it. First task was to plug the hole :

 

4ab4bf6cfee3480deab6d576008dc151.jpg

 

Then remove enough plastic to make room for the bar :

 

955229edeee3ffa72822c27490a71bb5.jpg

 

I drilled a hole on the left side, made the strange contraption that holds the bar on the right side :

 

7c0a3b75edbe37546810346e0d1b4628.jpg

 

Looks rough, needs some filler and sanding :

 

0e7c18ad452f08206f7a23ac4a9e6e42.jpg

 

Dryfit with the new bar :

 

d570579da001b568f49651601ccae0b9.jpg

bbac1e658c457a331ec5c83c6e5f1a01.jpg

 

This (the clear part) is all that remains of the original Hotwheels side-window, I used my mill to make a ledge that will hold the new side-window :

 

3a2f0c4fc7408badaf5813b9b765f797.jpg

 

50300da8e82adf2d9a538436cd92cc28.jpg

 

3c8928abebe86849fe5d7597005a181f.jpg

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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Looks good to me, Pascal.

You've done some brilliant work, especially having to work that horrible Zamac crap. Keep the faith though, mate....   you'll have a stunning replica when done!!

I'm very impressed by your achievements,...……...keep it up, sir!!

 

Cheers, H

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I hope to have more free time in 2019, really would like to finish this build this year.

 

One of the things that make this car unique are the vertical "fins" that are located just behind the front wheels :

 

0e548d2aa3eba4be82e946e4e29dbb0b.jpg

 

The fins come with this little PE-set  from Legende Miniatures  :

 

bv000028.jpg

 

There's no way I can glue these little pieces of flat PE to the body. So I soldered a couple of metal strips to the top and bottom :

 

948dd990a471f968bec08eb912be5ca5.jpg

 

c4e380a2c94b32a0d4fd28a77f05f622.jpg

 

To hold the metal pieces in place, I clamped them on a piece of aluminium plate that was bend in a 90° angle.

This way it was just a matter of putting some flux and solder on the joint, use the "creme brulee" torch and voila : a solid bond :

 

8a26756da3c80a97362e9c60498028b9.jpg

 

Dryfit on the  body :

 

f1be67590124596282a28ac0c81f26e8.jpg

 

773d814678afdbc1e6e04564fb02dbc3.jpg

 

At the rear the shocks are attached to a "kidney" shaped piece of black plastic.

The rod ends and tubes that I made earlier were to big, I couldn't fit them on the rear suspension without hitting the driveshaft.

This time I used a tube of smaller diameter (about half of the first version) and soldered a tiny brass ring to a piece of copper wire to make the rod ends.

I'll have to make a couple more cause the copper wire is not in the middle of the brass ring :

 

27541af597e8e7d3a2d4491fef5f84b2.jpg

 

The kidney shaped part received another hole, this will hold a hexgonal bolt :

 

49a703424bbc97c3f9062185c6b6197b.jpg

 

Turned the lid (3mm diameter) from an aluminium rod with my lathe :

 

6b5c893aabf3febf37a1b45445932658.jpg

 

A dryfit shows the hexagonal bolt in the lid. The head of the bolt is 1mm wide, but's it's to big. I will replace it with a 0,8mm bolt :

 

6094254eceaf176a9bf5e15bdeea86a4.jpg

 

In the end, it should look like this :

 

733c1de5ef58c4ecd84aad89e2fdea92.jpg

 

Sincerely

Pascal

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Good to see you back Pascal! I see that we both are looking for some more time this year to get back to the Ferrari's! Your idea of clamping the PE to aluminum plate made me think about something. When you solder the PE with the aluminum plate under it, am I correct in assuming the solder will only stick to the PE and not the aluminum? If so, then, I know how I'm going to finish off the hose clamps on the transkit. I can put a thin strip of aluminum between the folded section and only solder the side of the clamp and then slide out the aluminum strip and still have the opening for the rest of the clamp to go through without closing up the opening with solder or super glue.

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Yay! Some of my favourite projects coming back to life. Welcome back!

 

I built the BBR/Project 43 333SP a while back and it too has those 'fins' aft of the front wheels. Thank goodness for photoetch is all I can say. I look forward to seeing more of this one. Did I say I adore the 333SP? I think I probably did, several times. :)

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2 hours ago, Sabrejet said:

Yay! Some of my favourite projects coming back to life. Welcome back!

I couldn't have said it better myself!:D

Good to see you back at the bench Pascal...great work as always.

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Thank you gentlemen, much appreciated.

 

Yes Wayne, you are correct. Aluminium (or aluminum) will not stick to solder. It's a cheap and handy way of holding parts in place that you want to solder.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

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