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roymattblack

Lister 'Knobbly' Jaguar 1/8 scratch

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It's becoming a real beauty, Roy. Fantastic.

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Many thanks chaps. It's all good fun.

 

I've sorted the exhaust manifold in my usual way - 

An old microphone lead, copper wire, stained glass window 'pen' for the weld lines and small dot-punched plastic studs for the fixing bolts.

 

It's really not difficult.

 

Manifold back plate first, measure and drill the 6 exhaust points, fit lengths of copper wire, slide pieces of rubber mic cable (minus the core) over the copper wire, superglue the joins.

The whole thing is quite bendy and adjustable being wire and rubber.

 

Fill the joins with the stained glass pen which replicates welds quite nicely.

Glue the little punched studs in place, paint and fit.

Hey presto...

 

I will give it a light dust of grey and matt varnish before fitting it permanently.

 

Roy.

 

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Edited by roymattblack

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I've given the manifold a dust of grey and test fitted the exhaust pipes.

Made in the same way - mic cable with a wire core.

They still need painting and fitting properly but the whole manifold/exhaust won't be fitted for a while as there's a lot of plumbing etc to go on underneath it all first.

 

Roy.

 

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Thanks Mr L.

 

On to the fluid cylinders now.

These have been made from three resin cast ignition coils, chopped shorter and three resin cast lids made using a hex ended screwdriver handle, a plastic dome and some odd bits.

The resulting 'lid' was just pressed into plasticine three times and cast.

One had the top cut off.

 

The fixing bands are wine cap foil (hic) and small home made studs.

 

Once painted, assembled and fixed in with some rear pipes added, not too bad.

Front brake pipe still to attach, as is the wiring...

 

Apologies for the first few washed-out pics. White resin doesn't photograph too well.

 

Roy.

 

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Looks great. I really like the exhausts. Don't know what you mean with "stained glass pen".

Can you show what that is?

 

 

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The 'stained glass pen' is a tube of silvery gunk, with a very fine nozzle.

It almost works like a pen but if you squeeze the body, you get more of the silver stuff.

 

Hobby stained glass people use it on glass to draw the raised lines (supposed to represent the lead strips but only much finer) and once dry - about 5 minutes - they fill in the areas with coloured clear paints to make a stained glass window.

 

I also use it dot at a time to create rivets before painting the body - look at the screen surround area.

 

Roy.

 

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I've had a go at a couple of 30 second video's, just to see if it works.

Apologies for the wobbles and somewhat dodgy quality, but a video shows more than half a dozen pictures ever can.

 

I'll use a better camera if I try it again, and see if I can reduce the screen size.

 

Roy.

 

 

 

Edited by roymattblack

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A bit more for those interested.

 

The engine area is getting there.

Carb linkages and fuel lines still to add and the radiators need creating and fitting.

Then, front wheels on, shocks/springs and torsion bar, rad header tank and associated plumbing.

 

Slowly moving forwards.

 

Roy.

 

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Last update today.

 

I've spent around 4 hours trying all kinds of ways to make the one-piece wrap-around seat back that the real car has.

 

First - A paper template was made - and checked.

 

I tried stitching the patterns into leather - it worked but the whole thing was too flat.

I tried stitching the leather to a layer of sponge. No way...

 

In the end, I cut the sponge padding layer and d/s taped it to a scrap of blue leather - it won't be seen at the end.

Then I ran a bead of cyano into each 'flute' and pressed the black leather in using the edge of a steel rule.

Flute at a time, the pattern was made.

The upper curve was finally put in with a curved strip of plastic pressing the leather into the pre-glued groove.

 

Next, turn it all over and fix the edges in place with good old Mammoth d/s tape.

The centre tunnel part was cut and folded back and voila - it worked!

 

The panel goes in nice and tight with no fixings (although I will) and is genuinely 'puffy' being leather and sponge.

The wrinkles and creases look like the real car so I'm fairly pleased overall.

Seat bases next.

 

Roy.

 

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Very nicely solved! Are the seat backs actually part of the whole rear piece in reality, or is that just to ease construction?

 

Ian

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Incredible work Roy, the seats look so realistic and in scale... they also even have that worn in look!

 

Totally amazed, gazza l

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Thanks you guys.

It was fun trying to work out a way to do it.

 

Yes, in the real cars the seat back is actually one large wrap-around piece that covers the back of the cockpit.

 

Roy.

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As always superb work, and thanks for sharing your techniques with us mere mortals. 

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Thanks Ken.

 

I was up into the wee hours last night/this morning - as I was 'on a roll' with the seat back, I didn't want to stop.

You know how it is - something half finished and you just want to get it done.

 

A template was made for each seat base - driver seat is very long and kicked up at the front to support the legs. Passenger seat much shorter.

 

The seat bases were made in the same way as the seat back and they dropped nicely into place.

I also adjusted the seat back to allow for the small upward bulge on the tunnel.

None of the seat parts are fixed in yet - they also need a good dusting!

 

Roy.

 

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Edited by roymattblack

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Beautifully done...those seats look pretty comfortable...for a race car!

 

Ian

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9 hours ago, limeypilot said:

Beautifully done...those seats look pretty comfortable...for a race car!

 

Ian

 

Good idea to comnbine business and pleasure :)

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