Jump to content

Lister 'Knobbly' Jaguar 1/8 scratch


Recommended Posts

Thanks chaps.

 

I've just about sorted the dashboard/firewall and it's now fitted inside the body.

The gauges are supposed to be on the tilt, as they are in the genuine cars - apparently to make them easier for the driver to read at speed.

Some wiring added on the firewall side but still lots more to go in.

 

Roy.

 

P1012709_zpsvzxwsbuv.jpg

P1012712_zpsaimkqqrf.jpg

P1012713_zpssmvm2bkl.jpg

P1012714_zpsmzovonha.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

A little more today...

 

The chassis/floor is now (I think...) fitted permanently. It's still removable as it's held in place with 6 screws but hopefully it doesn't need to come off again.

Also for those who might not have noticed - it has a yellow stripe.

 

Roy.

 

P1012715_zpszdblb99p.jpg

P1012716_zpsp0bmamjc.jpg

P1012717_zpsvrfceefq.jpg

P1012718_zpsggouph63.jpg

P1012719_zpsvkiyhz03.jpg

P1012720_zpsetk8ixpu.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Roy, please don't tell me you used a spray can again... i ll throw my airbrushes down some industrial crusher  :crying:

 

 

ps  Who is looming behind the engine in picture 4 ?  :clown:  an orange hair guy again ?

Edited by sharknose156
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello you guys.

 

Yes - rattle cans, as always. This time it's cellulose though. Went on superbly, nice, 'thick' and flat. Lovely finish over Halfords grey primer. What you see is what I got.

Good old Wallace behind the engine.

 

Roy.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Gary.

 

I cast the gauge backs in resin and the bezels are made from wire wrapped around a suitable circular object.

In these cases, a biro for the small gauges and a marker pen for the large ones.

They are then glued in place and the join in the wire filled with silver from a stained glass beading pen.

 

Roy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've made a start on some of the interior now.

The tunnel was formed over a very basic wood pattern and then covered with leather.

Inner sills sorted and a padded sill end on the driver side.

The pattern was made by making the sill top in small plastic raised pieces which was then leathered - pushing the skin down into the grooves between the plastic strips.

Rear bulkhead wall in place.

Actually it was pointless painting it as it's completely covered with the full-width seat back eventually.

 

Roy.

 

P1012724_zpskzdcn9qh.jpg

P1012730_zpsjbsctawb.jpg

P1012731_zpsdwnwgdr6.jpg

P1012732_zps90r64gaj.jpg

P1012733_zpsjdedu7ha.jpg

 

Edited by roymattblack
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran a tilted tach in my 914.  Never had to actually look down at the tach while hustling the car.  As the needle approached vertical (where I oriented the "redline") in my peripheral, it was time to shift.   

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, roymattblack said:

It's actually quite thick 3M aluminium tape.

 

2" wide, Mega sticky.

You just have to be careful putting it on as it really doesn't want to come off again.

 

Roy.

Simple but effective.

gazza l

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking great as usual Roy! Can't believe how you seem to tear through these projects!

 

I've never seen those Smiths upside down gauges before; were they used on other racers? Looks like they used their normal gauges and just printed all the numerals on the face upside down. Can't think why they did it - a needle at the top of a gauge always gets my attention!?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Funnily enough, this build feels as if it's dragging a bit.

I usually work anywhere from 4 to as much as 10 hours a day on a model. I've been dawdling a bit recently and need to get a move on.

I want to start catching up on the C Type that I've left - yet again.

 

I'm currently head-scratching about the Lister seats...

 

I also want to get the rear wheels on and get the engine in place so I can get on with the detail stuff.

 

Roy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've made the passenger footwell box and added the assorted relays, fuse box, starter and connectors.

These have also had some wires added and the box test fitted into the front of the car.

I won't fix it in place yet as there's still a good bit of wiring to go onto it first.

 

Apologies for the somewhat dodgy pics in places.

 

Roy.

 

P1012735_zpsbbvz1ezy.jpg

P1012736_zpsfzmrj8ho.jpg

P1012737_zpsydskpdgf.jpg

P1012738_zps3ib5syzy.jpg

P1012740_zpsfkjxz60o.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, vontrips said:

Looking great as usual Roy! Can't believe how you seem to tear through these projects!

 

I've never seen those Smiths upside down gauges before; were they used on other racers? Looks like they used their normal gauges and just printed all the numerals on the face upside down. Can't think why they did it - a needle at the top of a gauge always gets my attention!?

 

Don't think Smiths made upside down gauges, I think they were just fitted upside down in the round hole in the dash.

I could be wrong though

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The gauges actually are made 'upside down' to the way standard gauges look.

Usually, the large gap in the ring of numbers is at the bottom, with '0' on lower left, and 'max' on lower right.

 

These gauges are upside down in that the gap is at the top.

'0' is at top right, 'max' at top left, with all the text facing the correct way.

 

Roy.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Righty ho...

 

The driver footwell box has been built and fitted.

The pedals had to be made first and added from the inside. Almost pointless ans they are literally impossible to see once installed.

The firewall centre plate was added next, then the relay box and all the wiring attached.

There's still more wiring and stuff to add...

 

Roy.

 

P1012741_zps1tznunxb.jpg

P1012742_zpsrmapbzbp.jpg

P1012743_zpsf1kmb50w.jpg

P1012744_zpsk9uekwkg.jpg

P1012745_zps21li1mtx.jpg

P1012750_zpsukt7w0gw.jpg

P1012753_zpsnsmktnft.jpg

P1012754_zpslljxlx11.jpg

 

Edited by roymattblack
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks Mr C although I suspect most modellers (sadly) feel that scratch stuff is outside their remit...

A shame as it isn't as scary as people think.

 

Edited by roymattblack
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Great stuff, Roy.

I like the paintwork and as always, the various very detailed, astonishing real looking bits you put in

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...