Rob G Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 While I wait for the local hobby shop to get in my preferred Gunze Sangyo paints so that I can continue with my F-16s for the Cold War GB, I thought I'd do a tanky thing. I had planned to do the 1/72th Tamiya Sturmovik for this GB, but I'm a bit aeroplaned out right at the moment. I have here the CyberHobby JSU-152 '3 in 1' box, with a bonus set of Red Army figures. This one was in my stash cull box, but not as a serious contender - if someone had bought it at the last swap meet, no worries, but it didn't have to go. Therefore, seeing as I's still got it, it'll be built. All reviews tell me that this is a nice kit, the only significant flaw (according to Cookie Sewell, whose opinion I respect) being the too-small road wheels, which can be mostly fixed by the addition of plastic strip to bulk them up a bit. That will be the first order of business, then we'll proceed from there. There's a choice of 3 variants here, the Big Mother JSU-152 with the 152mm howitzer, the leaner (but not much lighter) JSU-122 with the 122 mm AT gun, or the JSU-122S (the sports model ) with a different version of the 122mm gun. I'm going to do the 152mm version because, why not! Kit comes with Magic Tracks, which are apparently not too painful to assemble, and it looks pretty nice - Dragon do good work as a rule. Blah blah history, I won't bore you with it, those who already know most likely know it better than I do (not difficult), those who don't but want to can look it up (lots of stuffs out there, including videos on YouTube), the ones who don't care either way... don't care. It was a WW2 AFV, with a big gun, and it played a major part in the Russians' successes against the Germans during the war in the East and on into Berlin. The 152mm version was especially useful in the house to house fighting that was engaged in during the final days, where its short barrel was better than the much longer barrels of the 122mm variants, which often had problems getting around city corners. The tentative plan is to do it as a vehicle mid-way through having its winter whitewash applied, stuck to a base with a couple of figures in the process of attempting to hide 47t of stronk Russian tenk with old brooms and a thin coat of watery paint... The box art option gives me the whitewash over green that I want, and Mr Dragon tells me that it's a vehicle from the 384th Heavy Artillery SP Gun Regiment, Czenstochova, Poland, 1945.On with the pix. Box. Instructions and decals. Plastic bits. No detail closeups, it's a plastic tank and I'm sure we're all familiar with what that looks like. And just for interest, the 122S gun (left) vs the 152mm howitzer, showing the length difference. Well, that's me away again, building photos as they happen! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 That is indeed a BFG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Love your title, and I'm interested to see how you solve those road wheels - going to watch this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Hi Rob. That does indeed look to be a rather excellent tank kit with a BFG! Very nice! Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Have to say the three in one kit idea is something Dragon should seriously consider implementing on their entire 1/72 range.....Their current Braille kits are a total rip-off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Thanks lads. We're on hold for a few days, I managed to score a couple of days away at work. This will continue shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Right, back at it! Having a couple of days away from the bench allowed me a bit of time to mull the wheel question over. In the end, I decided that simply trying to pull .5mm strip styrene around the wheel and then glue it was going to be somewhat of a mission impossible. Thus, I turned to the plastic modellers' best friend, hot water. All will be explained with the following pitchers... Note that the JSU's had steel wheels (with rubber inserts inside, apparently). Thus, this 'tyre' that I'm adding isn't really a tyre, it's more of an added diameter bit of 'steel'. But I'll call it a tyre in the same way that old carts had an iron tyre shrunk onto their wooden wheels. OK? First, true up all the wheel surfaces on the mini-lathe to make a nice flat gluing surface. If you don't have one, a Dremel and sandpaper will do, or even an electric drill. Or you could in a pinch, do it by hand. But it'd take a while, there's 28 wheel halves to do. Note to self: Use a sharp tool next time you do this! Next, cut .5mm x 3.2mm Plastruct strip to length (shown here with the first fruits of a trial run - because I'm either brave or stupid (possibly both), I used the kit wheels for the trial. Good thing that it worked!) then add a bit of tape at each end. I used some packaging tape cut to size, because I knew there'd be a bit of force involved and didn't want it coming loose too soon. 1cm wide tape pieces seemed to work just fine for the 2 strips that would fit on my chosen form. (If you have all your ducks in a row, you'll make sure that you have a longer bit of tube so that you don't have to hang around in the kitchen for half the afternoon dunking bits of plastic into boiling water two at a time. How do you spell 'tedious'?) Then carefully align one end, stick it down and roll the strip tight around the form. Stick the other end firmly, doing your best to align the ends to avoid any 'set' in the strip - you're doing this so that you don't have to fight the plastic, no point in introducing a spiral as well. (No photos, because I forgot. If anyone wants some, I can fake it!) Using a suitable tool (ie NOT your fingers) lined up in such a way as to hold the taped end in place, immerse the whole shebang in almost boiling water for 15-20 secs then swill it around in cold for a few secs to set it. Then unpeel the tape and et voila, a round tyre-shaped bit of strip. The overlap is intentional; I didn't want to commit to an 'exactly right' length of strip just in case there was variation between the wheel sizes, this gave me a bit of working length. Once you're all done and the stove is turned off, you end up with this then it's time to sit at the bench and get funky. I decided on a strategy of 'softly softly' - to that end, each strip was just touched at the inside end with a small dab of Tamiya Extra Thin (TET) (about 1mm's worth), then I slipped it around the wheel (See the 'trial run' photo ^--- Up There somewhere). Using a couple of small pointy tools to hold and manipulate the bits, the glued end was pushed into firm contact, making sure that the whole thing was lying flat on the mat. Allowed to set for a few moments, it was moved aside and the next was done. Then the next. And the next, and the next... etc. Stage 2 is to glue most of the rest of the tyre down, which was done with TET and the pointy tools, until there was only 5mm or so left unglued. Leave it to set up so that you don't have to fight anything, then carefully on with... Stage 3, where you cut most of the overhang off, then gently trim the end down until it's a close fit against the other end. I used a sanding stick for the final trim, and yes... it's tedious. If you go a bit too far, a spot of your favourite filler will sort out any gap. I'll be using super glue. Then use whatever method you prefer to make the edges of the new bit flush with the kit wheel (I used a knife then a sanding stick, with black marker ink as a guide to when it was all flush). Finally, if you've done it right (28 times), you'll end up with something approximating this Inside Outside Everything will need a final turn on the lathe to true up the outside diameter, then we'll see how it looks after a coat of primer. Seeing as there's identical inside and outside wheel halves, anything too ugly can go inside where it won't be seen, and if it ALL turns out ugly, mud will cover most sins. Tomorrow's task is to finish shoeing the beast! Do svidaniya. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Have to say the three in one kit idea is something Dragon should seriously consider implementing on their entire 1/72 range.....Their current Braille kits are a total rip-off. Hmm... basically, the difference between the 152mm and the non 'S' 122mm are the barrels, the 122mm 'S' gets another barrel and a different mount / mantlet area. That's it. Just like the real thing, really. If Dragon added the 10 extra bits to the 1/72 mould, you'd be paying double. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 For anyone who's still watching... In an effort to save the few marbles that I have left, I've been moving the rest of the build on whenever the wheels project started to drag. Here's the first fruits, although why Dragon (and Tamiya, and Italeri, and well... just about everyone) couldn't just supply these as moulded parts is beyond my meagre comprehension. Sponson blanking plates. Honestly easier to do than they appear, and they'll hopefully stop any nasty Panzerfaust rounds from being able to slip inside the hull through the heeeoooge gaps that were there before I started adding bits. And dry fitted Yep, one's a bit of a Frankenstein - I had to modify my original plan, and that was the easy way (too damn lazy to cut another and trim it to fit.) The new panels will press down and be stuck in with TET, then filled with superglue to make them that little bit more secure. The vertical white bits at the nose of the thing are a couple of locating tabs I stuck in there to make it easier to get an accurate fit every time. Originally added to ease lining the rear end up (don't ask, it was a fight to the death), I found that they helped with the sponson plates as well. A little trick I'll have to remember next time I do a tank. Tomorrow (well, later today actually), wheels and more wheels, and that BFG all polished and shiny. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Hi Rob. Nice work on expanding the wheels and filling in the sponsons. Shame such an overall impressive kit has these issues. Looking forward to more. Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Elegant fixes for problems which are becoming ever more prevalent with Dragon IMHO.....If you want the sort of kits Dragon used to sell (in 1/72 at least) look to Flyhawk. http://henk.fox3000.com/flyhawkmodel.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepureness Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 its a dam big tank, so no issues if its photo heavy loving the scratch work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crayons Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Good fix on the wheels. Nice looking hull too. I can draw some comfort in the fact that Italeri/ZVEZDA got the wheels right. Any chance of getting a picture of the painting diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 Crayons, PM inbound. If I ever built another one, I'd probably splurge for a set of resin wheels - saving money is one thing, losing your mind is quite another! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 And thanks again lads. There probably won't be an update today, I'm laid up with an unexpected gout attack. First one in 18 months, but it's snookered me for a couple of days, I imagine. Long story, but I didn't get it from living the high life. Sadly. The advance will continue after a short break for medical reasons. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Ouch.....Hope you are feeling better soon Rob! BTW - I know what you mean about losing your mind on what seems like a simple fix.....I've got to do the other half of my zverobogies (actually it's only a quarter, I've got two more kits in the stash) and the mere prospect has me gibbering and meeping already! We modellers are indeed a strange breed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crayons Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Thanks Rob, just the info I was after. Wishing you a speedy recovery. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Sgt, ouch is about right - I've managed to avoid a recurrence for so long that I'd forgotten quite how exquisite the pain is. Worst thing is, it made me miss a day's work. Crayons, glad to be of assistance. Thank you both for the best wishes. In other news, I braved the pain and (literally) hopped out to the work bench last night. Spent an hour or so faffing about before the pressure/pain outweighed the delight, but did manage to join both hull halves and keep on adding small detail bits. Hopefully I'll find the wherewithal to do something similar today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crayons Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Any issues fitting the rear engine deck to the lower part of the hull? The Italeri/ZVEZDA ISU 152 I am currently building is an awful fit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Just catching up with this build Rob, and it's looking very impressive so far! Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Crayons, the rear top plate (the sloped bit) is somewhat indifferent in fit. I've had to make some adjustments to the lower hull to make it sit properly (or what appears to me to be properly <shrug>)! When I fitted the hull top and bottom the other night, they went together OK - glued the front end first, as it has a positive location point, then did a bit of pushing and squeezing to get the rear end lined up; thus far, it's looking ok-ish. There's not a lot of contact area involved, maybe 3/4" at each front side plus the width across the front, and just the width of the hull at the rear. I'm not a track head, so I'm not going to get all bent out of shape if it's not quite right shape-wise. I'll post some photos when I can. Hope that all makes sense and answers the question! Cliff, thanks. This one may actually get done before the GB ends. More when I'm able, still suffering. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crayons Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Sorry to read you are still suffering. Makes sense. I am going to have to fit and glue the nose in first before I can even attempt to close up the rear plate. I think the awful fit on my Italeri/ZVEZDA could be in some part due to the lower hull warpage and the crack in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Hi Rob. Sorry to hear you're still suffering. I hope it starts to ease off soon. Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Totally OT, but I'm beginning to think that I may have broken something, somehow. Appreciate the well wishing, thank you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Totally OT, but I'm beginning to think that I may have broken something, somehow. Appreciate the well wishing, thank you all. That's not good. A trip to the docs might be in order?Take care. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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