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Hey,

This is my first post and first model, please don´t be too hard to me. :winkgrin:

I will build a Beoing 777-300ER in the livery of Air India. My Camera is damaged :weep:, so picture will follow in future.

Yesterday I mad my first airbrush layer, some mistakes included, but I think I will figure it out how to improve my airbrush skills.

Decals: 26 Decals

Kit: Boeing 777-300ER Zvezda

Colours : Humbrol Gloss Ivory 41

Xtracolor Canadian Vodoo Grey x150

Red: I am still trying to find the best match

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Hi,

This is great to see another airliner being made. There's been a rather large number featuring in these pages recently. I particularly like the Zvezda "trip 7" but haven't got round to even thinking about building any of mine.

For the red or saffron colour, could you start with orange and then add a few drops of red to match the decals? How does the Ivory colour look for the main fuselage? I've often wondered what colour to use for this.

Looking forward to seeying you piccies of the progress so far.

Jeff

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Nice start LB. :thumbsup:

I did not realise that the Air India were not white! After looking at a few pictures i see they aren't. It is a very striking scheme.

I find a short fall of a lot of after market airliner decals is that they do not offer colour matches these days. That makes the research more interesting (or a hindrance for some) when building these other schemes.

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Hey Folks,

Today I made some small paint jobs.

At the moment I have a lot exames and tests, so less time for modelling. ;D

- L.B.IMAG20661_zpshmm211xh.jpg

Edited by lunch box
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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

spacer.png

 

So, after priming with Mr. Surfacer 1000, I sprayed the wings in Boeing Grey (Xtracolor) and the fuselage in Humbrol 41 Gloss Ivory!

If you have any advice, let me know :)

Edited by lunch box
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1 hour ago, lunch box said:

spacer.png

 

So, after priming with Mr. Surfacer 1000, I sprayed the wings in Boeing Grey (Xtracolor) and the fuselage in Humbrol 41 Gloss Ivory!

If you have any advice, let me know :)

Nice build, and following for the ride.

What have you masked the windows with? I'm nearly at the same stage on my Airbus A350-900 (once i've unbent a warped fuselage half) and still undecided on window masks.

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I didn't mask the windows, it just looks like that. I wanted to use the authentic airliners window and cockpit decals :) Keep use updated about your A350-900!

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Posted (edited)

I got a little problem paint came of while masking. I let it dry for 72 hrs.

spacer.png

Edited by lunch box
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So, I don't know what to do, except of sanding and repainting it. How do I prevent it? I reduced the stickiness of the masking tape before apllying it on the 777.

 

 

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Hi Lunchbox,

 

I just looked at the photos. Since you are working with enamels,  i can think of 3 possibilities why the paint lifted up:

 

1) The plastic itself wasn't clean (e.g., it had skin oil, mold release, some sort of surface contaminant on it).

 

2) The plastic itself was too smooth and there wasn't sufficient roughness for the paint to mechanically bond onto, while it etched itself into the plastic.

 

3) The paint was applied too heavily, all at once and wasn't allowed to dry enough. Gloss Humbrol colours take FOREVER to dry and can remain soft and tacky to the touch days after being applied. If you are working with a object as big as as a fuselage its best to set the model aside for a week to let it really outgas and harden. Also, in the case of a fuselage that size its probably better to build up the coverage in several thinner coats, spread out over several days if not weeks, carefully wet sanding out lint and other surface imperfections between coats.

 

4) The tackiness of the TAPE may or may not have played a role. I've been using Tamiya and similar paper, Washi-Type tapes for years as well as some low tack tapes for masking large areas and i seldom if ever peel enamel paints off the surface. That phenomenon happens much more often with acrylics and lacquers, that adhere to the model plastic in a different way than enamels do.

 

In your situation i'd take a step back, allow that ivory to really set up and harden and then carefully wet sand the peeled back areas down to bare plastic, then mask off along panel lines and re-spray. However, this interval might be a blessing in disguise as you can go back and sand out any other problem areas on the model before more paint goes on.

 

I know this must feel like a hell of a setback, but all is not lost.

 

-d-

 

Edited by David H
Changed the word "plastic" to "TAPE".
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Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, David H said:

Hi Lunchbox,

 

I just looked at the photos. Since you are working with enamels,  i can think of 3 possibilities why the paint lifted up:

 

1) The plastic itself wasn't clean (e.g., it had skin oil, mold release, some sort of surface contaminant on it).

 

2) The plastic itself was too smooth and there wasn't sufficient roughness for the paint to mechanically bond onto, while it etched itself into the plastic.

 

3) The paint was applied too heavily, all at once and wasn't allowed to dry enough. Gloss Humbrol colours take FOREVER to dry and can remain soft and tacky to the touch days after being applied. If you are working with a object as big as as a fuselage its best to set the model aside for a week to let it really outgas and harden. Also, in the case of a fuselage that size its probably better to build up the coverage in several thinner coats, spread out over several days if not weeks, carefully wet sanding out lint and other surface imperfections between coats.

 

4) The tackiness of the plastic may or may not have played a role. I've been using Tamiya and similar paper, Washi-Type tapes for years as well as some low tack tapes for masking large areas and i seldom if ever peel enamel paints off the surface. That phenomenon happens much more often with acrylics and lacquers, that adhere to the model plastic in a different way than enamels do.

 

In your situation i'd take a step back, allow that ivory to really set up and harden and then carefully wet sand the peeled back areas down to bare plastic, then mask off along panel lines and re-spray. However ,this interval might be a blessing in disguise as you can go back and sand out any other problem areas on the model before more paint goes on.

 

I know this must feel like a hell of a setback, but all is not lost.

 

-d-

 

Thank you so much I am not that experienced YET. So I appreciate it so much. I sanded it down, corrected some imperfections and I noticed the paint isn‘t fully dried so, I will let it dry for at least three days more. :)

Edited by lunch box
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1 hour ago, lunch box said:

What do you mean by touch days?

'the paint remains soft and tacky to the touch, days after being applied' 👍

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My paint isn't tacky, but still still soft

2 hours ago, David H said:

the touch days

What do you mean by touch days?

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7 minutes ago, lunch box said:

What do you mean by touch days?

I think you still didn't understand...He means the paint still feels soft and tacky to touch, even after several days. 'Touch days' is not a word, it's part of the same sentence. 

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What i mean is with normal body heat and warm fingers, when you tough the glossy surface the paint feels soft, slightly tacky and not fully cured and hardened.

 

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2 hours ago, lunch box said:

Thank you so much I am not that experienced YET. So I appreciate it so much. I sanded it down, corrected some imperfections and I noticed the paint isn‘t fully dried so, I will let it dry for at least three days more. :)

Interestingly enough, i discovered a thread this morning over on Airliner Cafe that touches on the subject of enamel paint curing times....

https://www.airlinercafe.com/forums.php?m=posts&q=11622

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2 hours ago, lunch box said:

Thank you so much I am not that experienced YET. So I appreciate it so much. I sanded it down, corrected some imperfections and I noticed the paint isn‘t fully dried so, I will let it dry for at least three days more. :)

The incredibly long drying times of enamels are a big reason why i switched over to acrylics and acrylic lacquers. They require somewhat more fastidious surface prep, but the drying times are an order of magnitude faster than enamels. For me, they make gloss finishes/ paint schemes much much easier.

 

-d-

 

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