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David_64

Building/Painting/Masking Tutorial: Heller Citroen 15 CV

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The advice of cmatthewbacon is exactly all what scale modeling is about, but thats my personal opinion.

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I have to admit that Matt is likely to be vindicated on this one, because working with masking tape for the lines where the knobs and logo intersects is indeed extremely challenging (to put it mildly).

On the other hand, with my limited skill, cutting a straight trench without messing up the trench itself as well as the paint, then getting this fuse wire right, and then glueing it in position without messing up the paint again could produce an even more ludicrous result.

That Ducati Pocher was a cakewalk compared to this.

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Sometimes one has to concede defeat and move on.

I just gave up on these lines on the dash, and painted them all gloss black.

Here's the completed dash:

complete%20dash_zpsqhindrr1.jpg

Far from perfect, but if one takes into account the size of this thing and my skill level, I would call the overall result decent.

To all of those who told me it wouldn't be possible to paint these lines: You were absolutely right!!!!!

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Friends and Tutors,

I'd like to airbrush the body of the little Avant with Tamiya acrylic black.

Can I then use zero paints 2K for clear coating?

Anyone have any experience with this? According to the zero paints site, it should work.

If I do this, should I airbrush the body flat black or gloss black with the Tamiya acrylic?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Edited by David_64

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Could you not use Tamiyas own clear gloss over the black? At least that way you are 100% certain that there will be no nasty paint reactions.

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otherwise you test on some scrap plastic

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I'd like to be able to use the 2K zero paints for clear coating. I tried it on the ivory wheels of the little Avant (see pictures above) and the results are really good. The product is sticky and smells badly, but quite easy to use once you get it all mixed and into the airbrush.

I've consulted with a zero paints expert in Holland (http://www.thescalemodeler.com/en). This person has a lot of useful videos on Youtube; that's how I got to know him. He says that 2K should work well on Tamiya flat black acrylic paint.

That's how I am planning to proceed.

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Another question regarding the infamous little silver lines on the dash for the experts: Does there not exist a pen that would allow one to trace a thin silver line in the foreseen grooves on that darn dash? Of course, it would have to work on the paint.

Edited by David_64

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Just be aware that if you're using Zero 2K, you shouldn't really know that it's sticky or how it smells! A very good mask, proof against vapour as well as particulates, and impervious non-latex gloves are essential. It may have been said before, but it can't be said too often...

Bestest,

M.

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There are Sharpie marker pens in all colors including silver that will work. I also think that Tamiya makes or used make paint pens.

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Just be aware that if you're using Zero 2K, you shouldn't really know that it's sticky or how it smells! A very good mask, proof against vapour as well as particulates, and impervious non-latex gloves are essential. It may have been said before, but it can't be said too often...

Bestest,

M.

I use a good mask, latex gloves, goggles and a spray booth. The first time my wife saw me in this outfit, she almost threw a fit. Even with all this kit, you still smell the stuff (especially after you take the mask off).

I use a small spray booth I bought on amazon, something that looks like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/FDS-Paint-Airbrush-Extractor-Figurines/dp/B00LPDOYOE/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1465329362&sr=1-2&keywords=spray+booth.

It does the job, I think. But something more "industrial" with more suction power would probably not be a bad idea; would anybody have anything to recommend?

There are Sharpie marker pens in all colors including silver that will work. I also think that Tamiya makes or used make paint pens.

Do you think these marker pens would work on the paint?

Edited by David_64

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Pilot Silver Metallic Fine point markers are the best I've ever found. If you get a large one as well, you can squidge some of the pure paint out, which is fantastic highlight chrome silver detailing paint when applied with a fine brush onto switches and knobs...

Bestest,

M.

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Pilot Silver Metallic Fine point markers are the best I've ever found. If you get a large one as well, you can squidge some of the pure paint out, which is fantastic highlight chrome silver detailing paint when applied with a fine brush onto switches and knobs...

Bestest,

M.

You mean this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pilot-Super-Colour-Extra-Fine-Permanent-Paint-Marker-Pen-Silver-/171241216356?hash=item27dec59964:g:Lg0AAOxyVLNS-1lr?

Do you think it will work on the zero paint gloss black?

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It's all about air flow with spray booths. I made my own and it has a 485 cfm fan blower motor on it. But, no matter how much air it moves you will still have the noxious fumes especially, with any lacquer paint. I usually only use the booth for small quick paint jobs and in the winter when it's too cold. Otherwise, I try to paint outside to keep the peace with my wife.

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David,

You might want to try AK Metallic Waxes. They work well over any paint (except enamels) and can be cleaned off fairly easily using enamel thinners.

I have the sharpie pen. It is nowhere near chrome, more of a dull silver.

An alternative might be the chrome paint markers as suggested, but they seldom come in fine points. I have the one from Tamiya but the point is quite big.

Regards,

Jeremy

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Thanks for the feedback, chaps.

It's all about air flow with spray booths. I made my own and it has a 485 cfm fan blower motor on it. But, no matter how much air it moves you will still have the noxious fumes especially, with any lacquer paint. I usually only use the booth for small quick paint jobs and in the winter when it's too cold. Otherwise, I try to paint outside to keep the peace with my wife.

When you say outside, I assume you mean you have some shed. Does the wind otherwise not interfere with the paint flow?

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Body parts primed:

body%20primed_zps71iv3u4x.jpg

Next steps are to paint interior, wet sand with fine grit exterior, wash exterior and paint the exterior.

Note that I used a Tamiya scriber to deepen the panel lines, to good effect I think.

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For anyone interested in paint booths…

A properly designed and installed spray booth with ducts to carry the fumes out of the room should enable you to paint indoors without odors.

The speed of the air passing through the booth determines the booth’s effectiveness. Air speed through the booth is not dependent only upon the CFM rating of the fan. Considerable analysis and calculations are required to determine the fan required to achieve the target airflow speed.

To be useful, the CFM rating of a fan must be given for a specific static pressure.

Air flow in the booth depends on the internal dimensions of the booth and direction of the draft.

A cross draft booth should have an air velocity of 100 FPM and a down draft booth should have an air flow velocity of about 50 FPM. You calculate the required CFM by the interior dimensions and desired air flow velocity.

After doing the calculations for the booth, you must calculate the impact of the ductwork. Air flow is constrained by the static pressure of the ductwork. Static pressure is determined by duct diameter, duct length, number and type of bends, and the inside texture of duct (flexible ducts dramatically increase static pressure).

It is all too easy to build a paint booth with a “300 CFM” fan that has an actual airflow of less than 20 FPM due to choices of design, fan, or ductwork. You must calculate what is required by the size and design of both the booth and the duct work to ensure that the airflow in the booth will keep paint fumes out of the room.

If anyone would like more information, contact me for information on how to do the calculations.

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For anyone interested in paint booths…

A properly designed and installed spray booth with ducts to carry the fumes out of the room should enable you to paint indoors without odors.

The speed of the air passing through the booth determines the booth’s effectiveness. Air speed through the booth is not dependent only upon the CFM rating of the fan. Considerable analysis and calculations are required to determine the fan required to achieve the target airflow speed.

To be useful, the CFM rating of a fan must be given for a specific static pressure.

Air flow in the booth depends on the internal dimensions of the booth and direction of the draft.

A cross draft booth should have an air velocity of 100 FPM and a down draft booth should have an air flow velocity of about 50 FPM. You calculate the required CFM by the interior dimensions and desired air flow velocity.

After doing the calculations for the booth, you must calculate the impact of the ductwork. Air flow is constrained by the static pressure of the ductwork. Static pressure is determined by duct diameter, duct length, number and type of bends, and the inside texture of duct (flexible ducts dramatically increase static pressure).

It is all too easy to build a paint booth with a “300 CFM” fan that has an actual airflow of less than 20 FPM due to choices of design, fan, or ductwork. You must calculate what is required by the size and design of both the booth and the duct work to ensure that the airflow in the booth will keep paint fumes out of the room.

If anyone would like more information, contact me for information on how to do the calculations.

I've contacted you privately….

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Here is the result of the interior paint job. The roof on the inside, the back seat and the interior panels with the silver/chrome door handles:

interior%20paint%20job_zpspcjww9id.jpg

I airbrushed this with zero-paints gunship grey, except for the door handles and grey touch-ups.

The door handles were painted with a brush using tamiya acrylic chrome/silver.

I used Humbrol Maskol to avoid the door handles from getting painted with the airbrush. When I peeled it away, some small fractions of the paint next to the door handles also went off, hence the need for touch-ups. I am not sure it was a great idea to use Maskol. Perhaps, I should have airbrushed the door handles as well and then just painted the silver/chrome on top of that. If I remember well, one can use acrylic paint on top of zero-paints (it's specified on the Q&A on their site). This would have saved me the need for touch-ups.

For the grey touch-ups I used Italieri flat gunship grey, which is the closest match I could find to the zero-paints gunship grey.

One thing I experienced is that it is probably not a good idea to use zero-paints for areas where one is likely to need touch-ups, because you can't apply it with a brush. So, you have to use another brand for the touch-ups than zero-paints, and it's hard to get the exact color match.

Anybody have any thoughts on any of the above?

Edited by David_64

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