Pete in Lincs Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Some neat problem solving there, Matey. Keep it coming, the Pullman car can wait! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 A masterclass in rational thought as always Hendie. Each instalment contains something good to squirrel away; I used your cowling-cutting methodology on a Meteor nose to great effect during the week so am much obliged to you. Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_W Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 I would have chickened out and built it with the spats closed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Splendid. Good work on those lights. Nice and informative tutorial, and made for an enjoyable Sunday morning read with a hot cup of tea and some boiled eggs As for the covers, crash or vac-moulded acetate? I originally thought of punched out acetate disks via punch and die, but then realised they are concave, moulded into the undercarriage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Hendie that's some cracking work. I can believe how much you put into these builds, probably more effort in the one wheel than in most of my builds.... Very enjoyable to tag along with and watch. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 As for the covers, crash or vac-moulded acetate? I originally thought of punched out acetate disks via punch and die, but then realised they are concave, moulded into the undercarriage. I'm not so sure they are concave - if you look at photo's of the u/c side on, the front edge of the spats are very flat. I think the covers on the 1:1 may just be slightly rolled, and not fully concave. <<== just checked a bunch of photo's and noted that they appear only very slightly concave in the vertical plane, but much more pronounced in the horizontal plane. I guess technically it's convex... or does it depend upon which side of the glass you are on? I did take a couple of crash moldings before I drilled out the holes and I may try both methods to see which worked best. I think it may be "rolled" - it will be a lot easier to roll flat photo-etch around the front of the spat than it will be trying to make a flat piece of photo-etch take on a concave shape 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Right - I'm caught up now. Only 3 pages in and already lots of hendie style inventive problem solving - love it Sooooooo glad to see these extravagant skills being deployed on a 'proper' (i.e.fixed wing.....) flying thingamyjig...... I just know this is gonna be interesting, instructive and fun to read.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Lovely work on those landing lights! If you don't want to use PE for the covers, you could try aluminium from a beer can. The engine side panels on my Bleriot scratchbuild were made by gently rubbing the back of the handle of a small pair of scissors against the aly and it forms a nice curve....... Ian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Nice work on the undercarriage and spats Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 The undercarriage got closed off this morning. Since I am using styrene cement I'll need to leave it until tomorrow before I can start carving it into shape. So while that was set aside to cure I had a go at making the drivers seat. Original kit part on the left, and my attempt on the right. That was my second attempt at soldering the base and it didn't turn out too badly at all. The seat back was just a very quick attempt to see what I could do... no measurements, just rough cut with a pair of scissors then filed to suit. Once I study a few more photographs, I'll probably have another go with a bit more care as to overall shape and form. - provided I can find some decent reference material - I can find lots of shots with a portion of the seat showing, but haven't really found one which gives a good clear view of the seat alone. and in case you were wondering - that wire cage is made up from Ø0.5 mm wire .. of course I am heading off again later this week so who knows when it will get done. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 A privalige as always to watch your builds Hendie and I have no doubt a superlative end result awaits you In the meantime have you seen this? http://www.amazon.com/Westland-Lysander-Manual-1936-44-cloak-/dp/085733395X/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_GB_pr_pub_0_0?imprToken=XmYotwbp21AhNshYFlPUug&linkCode=w43&tag=warbirdalley&linkId=2f4ca8886466d887d21209dba32a8614 Can't vouch for the contents but Haynes have a decent reputation. Trevor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blogs On Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Lovely innovative work again. Regards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Thank Trevor - I've been aware of the book for a while... just need to figure out how to hide the purchase from swmbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Can't vouch for the contents but Haynes have a decent reputation. Trevor Unless of course you actually want to use one of their books to fix your car! Martin The pilot's seat is a mahoosive improvement already! Martin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Unless of course you actually want to use one of their books to fix your car! Martin Or Lancaster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 I love the landing lights. Perfection made to look easy!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 Thanks for all the comments folks. The Lysander has been fighting back since my last posting - well, not so much the Lysander fighting back as me being sloppy and not paying attention. Last time around, I had cemented the styrene strips into the wheel arches - after leaving them overnight for the glue to cure, I cut off the excess and sanded the remainder to shape.... It was all looking so good.... a small amount of sinking due to a slight over-use of the gluey stuff, but I decided to leave it like that as these panels probably got a fair bit of bashing around and it would look like general wear and tear once painted. Starboard side wheel check... looks good. Port side wheel check.... oh bother... we have a problem! The wheel is way too far rearward. I'm not entirely sure how it happened, suffice to say that at some point I could not have been paying enough attention, and the brass leg must have slipped from the position I had set it in. What to do now??? After mulling it over for a few days I decided to opt for drastic surgery... I had spent some time trying to wrangle the leg into position manually but it was never going to happen - that epoxy glue was doing what it was supposed to do and it wasn't for letting go. - The plastic was going to give in before the glue was. That left two options... 1) cut/grind/gouge the leg out of the undercarriage and try gluing it again, or 2) buy another kit and start again. Well, buying another kit was always a last resort so I had nothing to lose... and eventually I managed to grind enough of the glue away from the brass that allowed me to prise it free. I had one small accident on the way when the grinder hit the front of the spat, but nothing that cannot be rectified later with relative ease. Now we have attempt number two at getting the wheel/undercarriage leg in the right position.... we'll see where the glue sets this time! With that drama extinguished, I went looking for the next one. The photo-etch set I purchased came along with a set of side frames... it's just a shame they look so 2-dimensional. So, in another moment of madness, I though that the PE frame would make a perfect template - All I had to do was cut some brass rod to length then solder in position. My initial plan was to use the PE only as a template then ditch it when done - then I realized that it would be next to impossible to make all the little doodads, doohickeys, and dumplings that were screwed, bolted, or otherwise suspended from the framework - so I had nothing to lose by just leaving the original PE in place after I had soldered all the rod together. Some time later, I had two side frames. I'm not sure how accurate they are - I just overlaid brass rod on the frame that was supplied, so if that wasn't accurate then..... you get the picture! However, I think they look many times better than just plain flat PE (I just hope this all fits later when I try to put it all together!) I'm still waiting on the Haynes manual to arrive so I can study the interior in more detail before I commit to putting anything together permanently here. In the best of modelling tradition, I am completely winging this as I go along, with absolutely no planned build sequence whatsoever anywhere in my head. It's a case of looking at some bits and see what takes my fancy/doesn't look too difficult. Obviously, having got this far with the brass framing, I have no option but to manufacture the other framing - i.e. all the stuff that can be seen through the windows, including the wing mounting points, in brass also. Seems so easy... what could go wrong? In other news... I wasn't happy with the performance I was getting from the old Mattel Vacuformer I bought so I took a page out of Mr. Fritag's book and went and bought one of these.... First trial showed that it had much better performance - actually quite aggressive. I used the original collector ring and vacuum-formed directly over it with 0.5 mm sheet styrene. It turned out perfectly and the outer diameter matched the cowling (now with a layer of tape) better than I had anticipated. A bot more tweaking may be required - if anyone caught the cowling thread in WWII, they will know that the cowling diameter and length on the MKII was different. I need to increase the outer diameter of the cowl and reduce the length. Earlier I had mentioned about overlaying some aluminum tape on the cowl and adding dents and dings to it in an attempt to recreate the look of the cowl on the 1:1's - in just about every photo I have seen, the cowls seem to take an disproportionate amount of battering. The kit cowling is pristine, so need a bit of beating up..... here's a quick "I wonder if this'll work..." You can just about make out the dings and dents in the aluminum tape... I think the idea may just work. 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Lots of luvverly doodads and thingummyjigs. And enough brass to outsolder Nigel. Nice one, Hendie. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blogs On Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Smashing work. Love the idea of the speed tape to replicate the tender ministrations of the engine fitter! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 'no planned build sequence': Hendie I have to say this is more like an inspired piece of jazz. Improv of the highest order. The cowling / tape idea is a nice piece of observation. Kind regards, Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 A most interesting update! Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Excellent!!! Good catch with the leg Hendie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Badger Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Enjoying this immensely.. Hey Hendie... I'm proposing a total scratch (scrapheap challenge) group build for next year.... fancy having a go? FB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 Enjoying this immensely.. Hey Hendie... I'm proposing a total scratch (scrapheap challenge) group build for next year.... fancy having a go? FB If I could think of something to scratch build, I'd probably be up for it.... provided it ran for at least 18 months (as I am certainly not the fastest builder around here, that's for sure) Does my train carriage count ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Splendid stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now