Engineering Modeller Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 I machined the hubs on the lathe and then transferred to a rotary table for drilling the holes. The four hubs were drilled at the same time. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 The Pocher kit comes with the gears for the steering box so I have used these but fabricated the casing from brass. The only tricky bit was soldering the ribs, I used soft solder and held them in place with engineering clamps and some steel blocks. Preparing for soldering. I had to machine the case to provide additional clearance for the worm wheel. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) Pump Machining & Fabrication The difficulty with the pump was threading the top cap as it is so small and only has about 4 threads. I therefore decided to make it in two parts, the threaded bit, the top and soldered the two together, I cant claim that it actually works as there is no seal inside the tube and no valve at the bottom. But I think it looks pretty realistic. Edited October 4, 2017 by Engineering Modeller 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Brake and Gear Change Lever The image is of the real car that I found on the Web. The Gate Shaping the handle Winding the spring for the mechanism, I used a violin string. This was probably the most difficult part of the build so far, the components were pretty small and the soldering tricky. I wont boor you with how many times I had to re-do the soldering but it was a few! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.e.charles Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 WOW = skills. you're certainly making up for lost time. great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Andi Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Seriously impressive stuff - VERY WELL done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I'd been wondering what had happened to this little project of yours! Excellent skills on show....I LIKE IT !!!!!!!!! Welcome back!!! Cheers, H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 It's great to see this amazing project back on track. Your metal working skills are something else. Quite wonderful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Very precise and impressive work that you are turning out here!! It's beyond my skill level but, it's very inspiring and makes me want to get back to the F-40 and do something besides sanding and painting the body! lol! Fabulous work, great to see it back and progressing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Hi folks, thanks for the kind comments much appreciated. One of the next jobs I have is to make the leaf springs, the plastic ones that come with the Pocher kit are too weak to support the weight of the brass body. I have been looking for some suitable material but so far have come up with a blank, if anyone has any suggestions they would be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I would recommend using Nickel-silver for the leaf-springs. Not the easiest of stuff to work with, granted...but very strong and will easily hold the weight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 The easier way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.e.charles Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 is there any chance you could share the type/ brand of jeweler's saw and blades you use? with a lubricant (wax?) or dry? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Hi, there is nothing special about the saw I think it is a small Eclipse piercing saw with some fairly fine blades. Where possible I try and avoid using the piercing saw as I have a habit of breaking the blades and use a junior hacksaw with some eclipse blades if space permits. As for lubricant I don't use anything on the brass but would use a drop of oil on steel, having said this I am no expert and others might be able to advise if a lubricant would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Thanks for the replies regarding the springs, the German Knupfer site looks fantastic but I managed to fine some spring steel from Reeves2000 which I have ordered as it was somewhat cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.e.charles Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 19 hours ago, Engineering Modeller said: ... nothing special about the saw.... got it; thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Well I finally obtained some steel for the springs from Reeves 2000 here in the UK. The steel was in a soft state when delivered and you have to heat treat it in order to produce the spring state. It was surprisingly easy to cut and drill , just like mild steel. Bent and ready for heat treatment. Using gas propane torch I heated to cherry read and plunged into water. This is the result before descaling and a test of how how hard the springs are! As you can see they are extremely hard, the broken leaf was the result of me just attempting a gentle bend and I broke another one when trying removing the scale. So before I did anything else I tempered the leafs in a domestic oven at 250 deg C for an hour. Then polished and removed the scale before finally heating again and bluing. Temporarily mounted. at least they now support the weight of the car! Having said that they are actually far too stiff to act as springs and I am not sure how that could be resolved. Maybe I should have just made a single leaf from spring steel and the rest out of plastic. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eksund Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Haven´t been here for a while... Found this - absolutely amazing!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 impressive love the folds idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Brake and Gear Change Lever The image is of the real car that I found on the Web. The Gate Shaping the handle Winding the spring for the mechanism, I used a violin string. This was probably the most difficult part of the build so far, the components were pretty small and the soldering tricky. I wont boor you with how many times I had to re-do the soldering but it was a few! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks for the kind comment guys. I must admit I have not done much on the Fiat recently as I have been busy with a few other projects but I will continue in a few months time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Please don't leave it so long for your next update, please!. You've done some stunning work, so far.....keep it up mate, I think you have the utmost respect from every scratchbuilder on here. You certainly have mine! Cheers, H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 The suspension you are doing WILL be too strong, but, I applaud you! Hat's off Sir! At least you'll know with certainty that it will continue holding the weight for your lifetime.... and your kids. It may be a bitch to work with, granted, but, the effort is well worth it....believe me! It definitely needs sealing and protecting, otherwise rust can very easily set in,...I use Mr Hobby clear metal primer for the natural finish, but if the metal getting painted, it' auto etch-primer (grey). Keep up the good work H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 On 10/4/2017 at 6:04 PM, Engineering Modeller said: Luckily it worked No luck here, you are a master. The radiator alone is a feast of scale modelling in metal ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 Folks, I have found some time so I am back on the Fiat tackling the wheels. But before that let me say thanks for the kind comments and Harvey was definately correct the springs are much too stiff but they look the part. It would be nice to have them looking correct and exhibit some suspension but I have no idea how to achieve that. For the wheels I decided yo use some American Oak that was left over from a cabinet I made. I had originally intended to get the spokes laser cut but then thought I would give it a try on a powered Fret saw, it turned out to be fairly straightforward and by using a small belt sander I was able to bring them to the finished size fairly easily. For the rim I decided to use 6 felloes which gave an angle of 30 deg. I glued the felloes using Wicks no nonsense cyno and the rapid activator. It seems to work very well and gives a strong bond. The circular one is just roughed out ready for putting on the lathe and turning to finished dia, the extra one is just in case! The next photo shows the spokes in the wheel building jig. This was just a piece of scrap ply with a hole of the correct dia. A piece of baking parchment underneath the spokes ensures the spokes don't stick to the jig. I used Gorilla glue for the spokes. The wheel is then mounted onto a threaded shaft the same dia as the hub and the external dia turned. The Front Wheel still needs a bit more sanding but its getting there. I will post photos of the others shortly. There is still one major thing to do on each wheel and that is to add a bead plus the securing bolts. These are a couple of photos of the real thing and show the bead, at the moment I am not sure how to make them so if anyone has any ideas I would be most grateful. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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