Engineering Modeller Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) Hi Folks Just thought I would post a couple of photos of a scratch build I am attempting of the Pocher Fiat. This is my first attempt at something like this and it seems to be taking rather more time than anticipated! At the moment I am not sure whether to attempt a full scratch build or to use some of the Pocher plastic parts, time will tell. Chassis Front axle Edited October 4, 2017 by Engineering Modeller 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 very interesting. will be following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Anything scratchy - I'll be watching. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vontrips Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Nice start! Looking forward to this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 It doesn't show that this is your first attempt at this. I'll be watching... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzulscha Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 So far so good as the man said. Keep going. I'll grab the popcorn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Some more photos of the build including some construction shots. The chassis has been soft soldered and the engineering clamps act as a heatsink preventing previous soldering melting. The rear axle is machined from a solid. Firstly I chain drilled the brass then machined the channel next removed the outside material with a hacksaw. Preparing the axle for the shaft location. Finished axle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Continuing with the build I fabricated the cab having first made a former from wood then bent the brass round the former, annealing along the way. Again the engineering clamps acting as both heatsinks and clamps. The sump was fabricated from a brass tube cut in half and then soldered to a frame. Sump fluxed and ready for soldering. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Cab trial fit to chassis. The floor and dash are 2.5 mm oak planks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Seat Frame Construction Just lots of cutting and soldering of the brass. Sawing the excess material from the back. Cleaned up and trial fit to chassis. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 More Trial Assembly These photos show the combination of the Pocher springs drive chain and wheels with the chassis. Eventually I hope to build the springs with steel and make a set of wooden wheels if I can figure how to do it. Chain under construction. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Highly impressive work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Nigel many thanks for the kind comment. Just one more shot with a few parts placed on to the chassis. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Great stuff. I like the engineering skills shown and the level of detail that you achieve. Thanks for sharing this build with us. Keep it coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
injidup Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Awesome is a sadly over-used word these days, but this really is awesome. Thank you for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 I am setting fire to my Rolls while I'm reading this...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 (edited) Heck of a first try at scratch building!! What thicknesses of brass are you using and what solder? Oh, and I assume that you are using a torch and not a soldering iron? Edited May 13, 2016 by larchiefeng Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Folks, many thanks for the kind comments I appreciate them. The solder I use is standard plumbers together with electrical for the smaller pieces. There were a couple of exceptions to this on the front stub axle where I used silver solder first and then plumbers solder on the next component. As silver solder has a much higher melting point I could solder on the next part without fear of melting the previous joint. I have used a Sievert torch and propane for all the soldering so far, its a fairly small burner a 393802 but a smaller burner would probably be better still. I did try an electrical soldering iron but it was just not powerful enough to heat the components. The brass thickness for the chassis, seat mounting and cab is 1.6mm. The frame on the cab/dash 2.6mm. These thicknesses seem about right and look ok for the scale of the model. When bending the brass its important to anneal it first. I did this by heating it to cherry red then cooling by plunging into water. At first I had mixed results until I remembered that its not just getting it to the correct temperature you also have to hold it at that temperature for some time (a minute or so) to allow the metal to change its structure. Once I did this it becomes surprisingly easy to bend with just your fingers. If there are a few bends to make in the component you may have to anneal more than once as the material will work harden as its bent. . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Absolutely amazing. Years better than the Pocher kit. This will be a jaw dropper when you finish it. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 All good information here, thanks. I'm thinking about making a few pieces out of brass, some time in the future, on a Pocher so, I'm going to watch this closely. I might ask questions that might seem simple so, I'll just apologize now. I'm getting more and more interested in making parts from brass for a number of reasons. One, is to get a part more to scale than a plastic kit part and two to actually make parts to change the entire car. Excellent work here and it's an example of how scratch building can be an art! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Hi folks Its been a while but here are some more shots of the build. There is still a long way to go. The bonnet showing hinges and how it should look. Machining the hinge Soldering the louves. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Love it: no long diatribe about how many rivets or what latest pointless photo you've found - just get on and do it. And do it very, very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 WOW! Really very impressive... Congrats! Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineering Modeller Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Next was an attempt at the radiator. Start of the soldering Trial mount (still with wooden former) Mesh for grill Forming the mesh for the grill I used some thin brass shim to make the folds for the radiator The Pocher kit came with a nice brass Fiat badge. I tinned the back with some soft solder and then clamped to the radiator with the engineering clamps acting as heat sinks to stop the whole thing falling apart. Luckily it worked 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 It's not an attempt! I do love the result... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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