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Wtf? Two identical sprues?  :analintruder:

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Very detailed panels,seats and cockpit area!

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Detailed exhaust and pipes!

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Seam Line :weep:

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Great decals

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Great panel lines

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Other...

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Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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Screens were created using a technique i 'invented' myself.
First a coating of silver, than a coating of green 'artists glass paint'. Then a gloss coating.

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Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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WTF?? Two identical sprues?? wups...

The two sprues are different around the area of the tailplanes, they are both rippled in that area,the one that was in the kit bag being the worse of the two. The kit was moulded in Korea and it was perfect but not now, if you can find one that was made before early 2015 it should be a Korean one and should be OK

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WTF?? Two identical sprues?? wups...

The two sprues are different around the area of the tailplanes, they are both rippled in that area,the one that was in the kit bag being the worse of the two. The kit was moulded in Korea and it was perfect but not now, if you can find one that was made before early 2015 it should be a Korean one and should be OK

Nope.. these 2 sprues are identical. no differences. just the printed serial number is different. they must have been mixed up in packing.

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  • 3 months later...

I have one of these to build sometime so I'll be watching closely. I like how you've done the screens, have you painted the individual knobs on the side consoles or have you rubbed the paint off to reveal the grey plastic, which is what I do.

John

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I have one of these to build sometime so I'll be watching closely. I like how you've done the screens, have you painted the individual knobs on the side consoles or have you rubbed the paint off to reveal the grey plastic, which is what I do.

John

The screens are my favourite! the side consoles were painted individually with a fine brush.

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After a pause of two years (2016-2018) gathering dust, trying really hard to find motivation to continue this model...Im back with this F15!
All images have been replaced since Photobucket doesn't show images for free anymore! They are now Flickr.

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Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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Looks very nice! Glad you picked up the build again! :)

 

Nice technique for the screens! Looks very nice! :)

 

Håkan

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A LOT of time was spent sanding and filling and also shaping edges! Then re scribing those panel lines which got covered with filler or dust!! 😡
The bottom part is simply full of missile/bomb rails! They all went on really well. Still undecided if to put on armament or not...
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In order to make the aircraft feel 'heavy', i like to stick fishing weights in the fuel tanks!

28457897227_7ccfa46428_b.jpgIMGP0059 by Ad Gam, on Flickr

Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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Also glad you picked this up again. It's good to know that I'm not the onLy one with big gaps in builds, my longest being three years!

I like the idea of weights in the tanks especially if they are forward of the main wheels, helping to prevent tail sitting.

 

John

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Nice build.

That canopy has the same problem as mine, it's not the seam too much but there's a bit of sag and it seems a bit '3rd rate', it's the weakest part of the kit. I have two of these kits and the first canopy had  what looked like black soot embedded in it. Got a replacement though from them.

Apart from that, the detail is great, one of Revells better kits.

I can't wait too see the finished bird.

 

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  • 2 months later...

(posted this in the tools and tips paint section)


Mr.Hobby's "Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray", is a new primer to me...
I sprayed the 1:48 F-15e with it, thinned down with cellulose thinner, and.. firstly it kept getting stuck in the airbrush at 15/20 psi or barely coming out, so i had to turn the pressure up to around... 30 psi!
The result was horrible. the finish is like tarmac. when i touch it i keep getting dust on my fingers and it feels like sand paper! (see images)

I'm not too sure what went wrong here...

1. Could it be i didn't thin it enough? if so what are the percentages? 50/50?
2. Too hot? still hot over here. around 30 degrees. but garage didnt feel too hot as august.
3. What psi am i supposed to spray this primer at?
4. Am i supposed to spray it on WET? or dust it on first?


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Funnily enough, on the small parts like air-brake, pods and missile racks went on beautifully. I sprayed these slow and in heavy wet lines.

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Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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Typical example of drying before it hits the surface. Mr Surfacer needs to be thinned a lot, 50/50 is definitely not enough, more like 20/80. Mr Leveling Thinner helps, but also more than a 50/50 ratio. I find that for priming "proper" hardware store cellulose thinner is better as it has more "bite". Use Mr Color thinner to remove the bad Surfacer. it dissolves the coat without attacking the plastic. Don't use your hardware store cellulose thinner neat on the plastic - it will melt it!

Dust the Surfacer on in repeated passes, going heavier the more passes you do, don't do a full-on wet coat in one go.

J

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On 9/25/2018 at 11:04 PM, AdriaN (MLT) said:

(posted this in the tools and tips paint section)


Mr.Hobby's "Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray", is a new primer to me...
I sprayed the 1:48 F-15e with it, thinned down with cellulose thinner, and.. firstly it kept getting stuck in the airbrush at 15/20 psi or barely coming out, so i had to turn the pressure up to around... 30 psi!
The result was horrible. the finish is like tarmac. when i touch it i keep getting dust on my fingers and it feels like sand paper! (see images)

I'm not too sure what went wrong here...

1. Could it be i didn't thin it enough? if so what are the percentages? 50/50?
2. Too hot? still hot over here. around 30 degrees. but garage didnt feel too hot as august.
3. What psi am i supposed to spray this primer at?
4. Am i supposed to spray it on WET? or dust it on first?

 

Hello Adrian.

 

I live in both Stockholm and Istanbul. Stockholm is usually a bit humid but Istanbul even more so. I always use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and I don't have this kind of problem, even when its 30+ degrees and 80% humidity. IPA is just a fancy name for 98% and above alcohol. I don't know where you could buy it in Malta but try pharmacy or chemist shop if you local hobby dealer don't have it.

 

\\Dan

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On 26/09/2018 at 03:10, JeffreyK said:

Typical example of drying before it hits the surface. Mr Surfacer needs to be thinned a lot, 50/50 is definitely not enough, more like 20/80. Mr Leveling Thinner helps, but also more than a 50/50 ratio. I find that for priming "proper" hardware store cellulose thinner is better as it has more "bite". Use Mr Color thinner to remove the bad Surfacer. it dissolves the coat without attacking the plastic. Don't use your hardware store cellulose thinner neat on the plastic - it will melt it!

Dust the Surfacer on in repeated passes, going heavier the more passes you do, don't do a full-on wet coat in one go.

J

 

Rewind to 11:40 please :)

 

This topic has recently appeared on one of polish forums. It seem to be related with nozzle size/desired spraying area/distance between nozzle and surface.

 

Here's more about it:

 

 

 

PS. By myself I'd recommend to use MLT (self-levelling).

Edited by TapChan
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  • 2 weeks later...

PROGRESS


Finally... paint!

 

The model was primed with mr hobby - mr finishing surfacer 1200. Total disaster (paint too tick) BUT, i managed to sand it back smooth, using very fine sand paper & it sanded very easily!


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I could only get my hands on AGAMA paints. Here i used their A22M Dark Grey (FS36118). It spray on smooth, dries fast and hard. Only problem is these paints have something wrong with them. No matter how much you mix them.. the paint keeps separating into dark and light ripples. It does not like being mixed with white. Its hard to clean from airbrush once semi dry. And does not spray well when thinned about 50/50.

After a base coat, it was post shaded twice, in two session. After, silver parts were sprayed using revell acrylic silver. And finally... sprayed with Klear.


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Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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On ‎10‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 9:37 AM, Christer A said:

It looks very pretty from this distance!

thanks! I am very happy with the overall shading and gray colour chosen.

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  • 1 year later...

Update!

Back in 2018 decalling this model was a bit boring especially since the decals are all black ..the size of ants! and many of them! i got a bit fed up and stopped. Even though I tried it was very hard to get back to it and... after no modelling for almost one year & two months, i managed to pick up this model and continue the long process of decalling.

 

Also tried something new... oil streaking using artists oil paints. Very happy with the results. Took me a while to get the hang of it and to find a technique.

 

After decalling and weathering, i gave the model a coating of Revell enamel matt varnish. I like the sheen it gave. Not dead flat, just a slight shine on the edges and curved parts. But im still not convinced since the matt coating was thinned quite a bit (around 50-60%)...Since the matt varnish is very thick! So after the thinner evaporated, only some matting agent was left behind, and in light.. it looks a bit 'dotty' or patchy. Some parts are more shiny then others.

 

Also tried natural metal shading for the first time. Not easy I must say. Used MM gun metal over the panel lines.

 

Panel wash using artists water colours and dish soap.

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Edited by AdriaN (MLT)
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