Jump to content

U-991 1/72 Type VIIc U-Boat - Revell


Recommended Posts

I've been reading through this from the start and just when I thought it couldn't get any better, you hit us with the work on the Flak guns!

It's incredible work, some of the most impressive modelling I have seen in a long while!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't put this off any longer. I'm going to try and solder up the 30mm.
6A244F58-6EFD-49DC-9F57-85B67027E092_zps
First the hinges for the gun shield, I don't imagine I will get these to work as hinges.
6F29E5C2-EB90-4379-878B-1EEFF904F6A8_zps
I decided to display the shield in the stowed poition, so I need to solder the hinges at 45 degrees. I'm using these offcuts to hold the stuff.
A6E40751-F4A9-4667-A5E5-F803571606B3_zps
Starting to put the thing together, Having to get creative in how I hold all this.
70316877-0330-475B-B4DA-B75A0B3B7BFF_zps
5AE08BB2-1A74-4FD7-ACEF-1D1C5F35E6C3_zps
I learnt to solder by watching Paul Budzik's videos on the youtubes.
I'm applying flux with a syringe to the area I want the solder.
C0C44599-5FC1-4382-8F0F-8E6A5C9D1506_zps
Then I am shaving off a sliver of solder, and stick it into the blob of flux.
4E10FCE1-BA9F-4830-A04D-89362C598512_zps
Apply heat and bingo!
742E45B0-DA51-49CA-BA78-467D97B23837_zps
CCC01533-F615-4329-9440-676614607A6E_zps
518CEF55-8A41-4F5C-B708-080A7CEC8D6E_zps
Holding the barrel straight was tricky
3B73A694-56B4-4876-8366-CB23B4F1E76F_zps
4986D50C-ED55-40CB-B877-5F9EB9B1C195_zps
I think I mounted the seats too low.
C3D8636D-B9C3-4B13-8DD7-5200EA7A5DC0_zps
4A3EAA99-817F-44D0-BD0C-D5B740F062A5_zps
08BB9487-61F4-4257-819A-9E308B54E826_zps
72ED44EB-97CF-4D23-9D5D-7B415FD12A21_zps
The upper two guns required use of kit parts so I just superglued them together.

BFDFD325-243A-4898-BE61-D7CCD2E61FFE_zps
AD03F3AA-B6D0-400D-8994-E36A3A24107F_zps
Cheers!

Incredible work :bouncy:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments guys!

Young Tiger, The laser cutter is at work, so I kind of have to sneak in to use it. I have to cut it in three passes, and jus the deck takes about an hour to engrave and cut. I doubt I could get away with producing a lot of them I'm afraid.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some bits, here and there, PE, I opened up these ballast vents (kingstons?)
E79A07C6-B896-46C7-A865-D09D56C6D75B_zps
I soldered up this tube that goes on the prow, the little bracket holds the main rigging line, os I want it sturdy
B533CF5D-0F74-4188-AACE-50DEA94AD8E8_zps
Goes in here.
CCAC91E5-4893-485F-A844-083903A0FCA1_zps
I also packed in the bottome of the guns with styrene so I can fit a tiny magnet in.
673EA0C3-5E63-4A01-BCEF-3C1EDFCF1A69_zps
I have one magnet in the deck and another on the bottom of the gun.
4AE1C347-417E-4AB9-B6DC-4E559636FD8B_zps
Works great, I can swivel it and everything.
44FD6E8F-C1A1-4126-987E-F0E4C90097A8_zps
Looks like a messed up some measurements. There is supposed to be a pipe that runs from these holes along the foot of the conning tower.
427BD9BD-D322-433A-AD43-E3CDD96F8AA4_zps
I'm going to do the guardrails in brass, these otherwise perfectly good kit ones are a little too thick. I need some help to hold them in the right shape.
D91D4A21-1BD5-4215-BA1D-1E9983CA7B18_zps
So I engraved some channels to place the brass into. Here I am using 0.5mm brass rod, which is half as thick as the kit rails.
8F8E6DD2-1297-4D37-B7C9-CDB547CB3E08_zps
E850DB97-F471-4CD1-854E-356A3B728ACB_zps
CA399D86-E69B-4817-843E-7668D5F58298_zps
I am also removing the magnetic compass housing. It looks like a wierd toe, and I prefer the later boats with the separate Askainia housing that sits in front like a little dalek.
5F229F12-AE46-4743-A288-0D2DEE23427A_zps
The boat on the right has the Askania dalek housing in white. Also it has the exterior pipe at the foot of the tower I was talking about earlier.
be816e0d157d43eda24d1cc5206f32c5.jpg
There is a kind of lap weld here between the pressure hull and the plating, sort of looks like this, I also carved out the edges of the pressure hull shape it's supposed to sit behind the plating.
3BE26CC8-44A9-4D69-AFB3-7569BE545906_zps
09A361D4-C278-4F61-92B4-A7590D55C2C8_zps
Examinging the oil canning in a harsh light bears witness to all these scrape marks, I Am going to try and sand them out to make it look more like steel plate.
61A6644A-C022-4A29-B899-8C634C5B0D88_zps
A bit better, I have rivets to replace too!
5A249E73-18CF-41AD-9737-7D8463BB0496_zps
  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks very much folks!
Under Deck plumbing. There is a fascinating network of pipes and vents under the deck of one of these things, but since there is only one left intact (U-995) Is pretty hard to get photo reference of it.
There are lots of plans available so I am going to try and do a fair job of representing it.
Manhole%20coversTyp_VIIc_g2_zps7vzsullz.
I say there are not photos of these thing today, but that's not entirely true.
This is the conning tower, or at least the inner part that is connected to the pressure hull. On top of it you can see the Uzo and periscope housing, and behind it (to the right) Are the air intake stacks for the engines and ventilation, the big pipe leads back to the engine compartment. Around the bottom of the tower are some intake vents for flooding the saddle tanks.
Shipwrecks-Hoyt-and-U701-520.jpg__600x0_
I'm going to use shapeways 3D printing service, but first I need a 3D model. Since I had the correct dimensions from the wooden internal struture already in the computer, I brought it into a #D modelling package and made a start.

Screen%20Shot%202015-11-11%20at%2012.36.
The kit hatches are not that great, so I should see if 3D printing is any better. This is the galley hatch.
Screen%20Shot%202015-11-11%20at%2012.40.
The three main intake vents have these big plugs in the top and are opened by a veritcal shaft that reaches down in to the control room with a wheel on the other end.
Since 3D printing is outrageously expensive, I am going to try and size it so I can use Evergreen styrene tube on all the straight pipe sections, here shown in white.
Screen%20Shot%202015-11-11%20at%2012.37.
I am making up the exhausts, no good reference. I know they come out of the hull around here, and in between them is the aft torpedo loading hatch. The is some kind of plumbing that re-directs the exhaust gasses into the ballast tanks, here in yellow. I'm not sure exactly how it works.
Screen%20Shot%202015-11-11%20at%2012.40.
On the starboard side, the exhaust gasses are diverted into that complicated valve exchange which routes it to ballast tanks, I think. On top of the conning tower is the main hatch, and behind it is where the attack periscope housing.
Screen%20Shot%202015-11-23%20at%201.47.4
Here's a link to the final product for the conning tower.
625x465_13536178_8082234_1459357629.jpg
The exhaust system as a separate model,
625x465_13644581_8433866_1459359107.jpg
The hatches are fun, the hinge works if you jam a 0.4mm brass rod through it.
625x465_175207_7786101_1459344163.jpg
625x465_175209_7786101_1459345995.jpg
With primer on, you can really see the 3D printing artifacts, for a rusty submarine, I think I will get away with it.
625x465_2438752_7786101_1459346819.jpg
Cheers!
  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rivets.
Sanding off rivets on these things is so common Archer make a dedicated set of replacements, including these handy bow pieces.
9A4C44D4-D1A3-4A55-94E3-7E676D1F38F8_zps
before I tackle that I will get warmed up on less risky parts.

880D5668-7DD9-4A77-A804-CA0E42027217_zps
I also soldered these little eyelets onto the top piece of bow (I soldered them on before CAing to the hull) they are anchor points for the wire guard rail that runs the length of the boat, but is usually not installed.
You can also see the carrier film from the rivet decals which I hope doesn;t show up when painted.
0CFAB650-7A08-4987-9067-F45AF9B49832_zps
355D8BA0-23D2-46F5-A374-300158B97A0A_zps
D492FAD0-683D-46D5-9552-92273EB5C9EE_zps
Ok, on with the bow.
D1DD330F-D7B7-43BF-81D3-E1123FF32134_zps
A08D66C8-0281-4B75-80ED-BA49ED6690D5_zps
Not entirely sure what the correct layout is, so I might be making this up.
9DF28800-38A9-44F9-8318-04897C2F3E10_zps
Sme of the 3D printed parts being assembled. Leaving the straight parts to be made from styrene tube gives me some freedom in fitting these things as well as save $$.
D2ED60E4-3809-4BD8-A3B9-0DADBED78D9B_zps
3EE0C582-ECF7-4EEC-A701-C84574106B8E_zps
7B412137-0EE7-4537-9DF5-17A330EBD384_zps
66DDE0CE-B711-4D3E-8C19-69374D8EFAD6_zps
Galley hatch.
63DC0702-D0D8-4971-9282-7CB06E01E02B_zps
Cheers!
  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks YoungTiger! I still have many opportunities to screw this up, and I must admit that I stand on the shoulders of many other great Uboat builders I have seen around here.



Before I stick the tower together, I should pain these wooded slats. They were to stop people sticking to frozen metal.

Starting off with a nice orange.


481AB77B-4A84-465E-92C1-1C8FFD475A73_zps

5E97CB2A-033D-4532-A306-EB9C8C032CB8_zps


I have a colour photo on the back of a book, which shows these slats, so I will try and copy it.


7E0E0A8A-AD01-4125-B677-50236AC2C49C_zps


Darkening with oils.


71A87AA7-26F3-4EAB-BBC7-51C918116E1A_zps


I spend some time with the dremel going over the pressure hull, this isn't exactly accurate, but it's nice to get a different texture between the black steel pressure hull and the zinc galvanized plating. I also scribed a channel between the two to further separate the saddle tanks from the plating.


7A2FFAE7-94B3-48E8-8CD1-D3FF1B036C74_zps


I still have some more riveting to do.



93AE7055-CD0A-433B-B7A8-26C055AF744D_zps

EDAF6A09-DDA4-4702-AD54-1DA31918DA7C_zps

213CC4A1-1DD8-4625-B5D6-2DC2A64DC4DB_zps

4D253509-9876-4C7D-904D-AD35943514DF_zps


As I am leaving the exhaust ports open, I'm going to use this perforated metal tube that I removed from the drawstring on some trousers I have. I t will give a little interest to the exhausts.



BE8F749A-27C2-415F-9A6B-9CDBD02F5BB3_zps


The #D printed peice comes with a bent pipe so I can fit them into the hull with some adjustment.


0B56B566-9CFA-4F47-9579-1A98CC5648BE_zps


Here is the plumbing in the rear, at the left are the intake manifolds that going to the engine room, in the middle are the high pressure air tanks, and to the right are the exhaust manifolds, with the rear torpedud loading tube between them.


E480E06D-97F8-46D1-8705-136CDD29C45E_zps


The high pressure tanks are 3D printed end pieces that are sized for evergreen tube, to save moneys as well as to alter the length of the tanks.



90F354E5-9568-4B26-BF34-1454D332D829_zps


Another shot of the exhausts, again using styrene tube to adjust the length of the silencers.


3B984A40-57E7-4629-8D76-116BBAD8F6D1_zps


Up front is the inner conning tower, mainly intake pipes but on either side are the flodding vents to the saddle tanks. Lets hope this #D printed stuff doean;t dissolve over time...


197AB4BE-6AF1-4E81-9B3D-E353F691DBC5_zps



Here is the 3D printed loading hatch.


DA1D0213-93D2-43B9-95E3-DDC774FF17FE_zps


Cheers!


Edited by TristanR
  • Like 12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blooming' 'eck! I've been away from BM for a while, so am just catching up with a few builds that are new to me. Yours is superb; I'm not really a U-boat fan normally, but this is fantastic work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thanks to my friend Julian "Gremlin 56" that me sending a notice of this construction.

Really stay of opened mouth, I congratulate you!!

Without dread of being wrong it is one of the best works in submarines that I see.

I am still attentive.

Best regards from Uruguay

Daniel Moscatelli

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thanks to my friend Julian "Gremlin 56" that me sending a notice of this construction.

Really stay of opened mouth, I congratulate you!!

Without dread of being wrong it is one of the best works in submarines that I see.

I am still attentive.

Best regards from Uruguay

Daniel Moscatelli

Most welcome Daniel, knowing the amazing attraction U-boats have on you I just knew you wouldn't want to miss this :analintruder::yikes:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure this submarine will actually be able to get underway, dive, adjust trim and sink 1/72 shipping once it's finished.

All you need to do now is find the Borrowers to crew it.

Very impressive work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the comments, very humbling given the strength of the work around here.
Hydroplanes.
The Kit assumes a pivot running through the width of the plane, there is debate as to whether this is accurate, most of the reference I've seen points to it not being so. I'm going to shave off the pin and bolt.
B828975F-ADBC-477E-A36A-CB2B2987D8BE_zps
The result is below, I also added a jumping cable, which was likely removed on late war boats, but it adds a nice detail. To attach to the hull, I soldered a brass rod to a spare (I hope it's spare) Eduard pe eyelet. Then I drill a hole into the hull and in it goes (here you see it sticking out a bit)
64D106DB-4478-4198-AA42-D8EFCF00300A_zps
A01A58A8-304C-4FD8-8ACD-47C12CDCD996_zps
I'm also punching out some more GHG plates, I seem to have removed most of mine.
838D410F-4C02-4260-A298-D2015B19C86E_zps
4E8FE28F-122C-4C8A-A405-A59A25D3B7F1_zps
Primer time.

2E901BF9-E841-4FF7-A595-FB057AEBB64D_zps
Hmm, I guess I should have been more generous with the micro sol on the rivets... I guess I have a new weathering opportunity.
948418BE-92EE-4F28-848C-F79D2EABB9C5_zps
The large PE plates needs to come off and go back on. I will try gator grip this time.
DB4A1314-1152-4494-96A8-A266FAF95ADF_zps
It's a good job this area will be hard to see.
6F1F8620-9629-4D9E-B904-D5E813C9C223_zps
DEAC97E2-5D52-457B-B236-4F6FF8B914AE_zps
Bow came out ok, but the torpedo doors stick out, which is unfortunate. I might have to address this later.
DF2CDA84-5179-43BE-879D-FAC0CED47B6D_zps
24686794-36B5-48D3-AC33-D5DE52057FFD_zps
Cheers!
  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...