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A 1/72 Amodel I-16 Type 5 Spanish Civil War (without a bucket of filler?).


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And my question here is: Why the hell are you wrapping hose "ribs" around the leading edge...????the original ribs didn't reach the leading edge....Don't you have thin Evergreen stripes...??? If that's not the case, you could cut insulating tape into thin stripes and use them to simulate the ribs....then overspray a few coats of Mr. Surfacer and that's all.....

Your little Moscas are getting even more complicated than AZ Models ever thought about.....

Tony, following this thread is like watching a Benny Hill show on friday evening....... :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: you never know what are you going to find next minute....

Edited by Artie
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And my question here is: Why the hell are you wrapping hose "ribs" around the leading edge...????the original ribs didn't reach the leading edge....Don't you have thin Evergreen stripes...??? If that's not the case, you could cut insulating tape into thin stripes and use them to simulate the ribs....then overspray a few coats of Mr. Surfacer and that's all.....

Your little Moscas are getting even more complicated than AZ Models ever thought about.....

Tony, following this thread is like watching a Benny Hill show on friday evening....... :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: :winkgrin: you never know what are you going to find next minute....

Hi all, I'm on the phone so I can't use the Multiquote thing. Thanks for all your kind comments! :)

I'm glad I can give people a bit of a chortle ;)

No, I won't be letting the ribs beat me.

Now to answer Artie's question, but first some music to put us in the mood:

https://youtu.be/MK6TXMsvgQg

Now, this may be. nuts but: The reasons I put the micro plastic rods over the leading edge;

1) I want to make sure the ribs on top of the wings were in the same position as those below, so each one was lined up with a 'peak' below, then folded over the leading edge.

2) I wanted to make sure these springy things were straight. By glueing them first, below the wing with CA, I could then effectively pull them tight and straight to the trailing edge. Then I lined them up with the rib underneath and tacked them there. That seemed to work. All lined up and tight.

3) I chose not to start the ribs aft of the leading edge as I couldn't be sure to get them all started at the same point, and straight, so by doing it this way, I felt once the glue had dried I could use a steel rule and cut them all off at the same point, aft of the leading edge. With any luck I may be able to scrape this unwanted fore section away.

Now on to why I used thick CA. This isn't evergreen strip, but it is very very fine plastic rod; made of the same polymers. I felt if I used polystyrene cement to glue them down;

1) It may melt these 10 thou rods.

2) It would be slow to dry and combined with 1) they may break, lift, move to one side etc

3) I find polystyrene cement doesn't sand very easily.

I've probably overthought this, or made an utter turnip of myself again. There still may be the chance it will work but I think perhaps not as I missed an important step.

I think I should have scribed the rib positions quite deeply into the wing. Then I would have been sure of alignment and also, the plastic rod would only half protrude. I realised this looking at the Ilya Murimets thread (thanks for pointing me there :) ).

More soon

Best regards

Tony

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Hello Tiger!

How I have missed this... Brings also some memories like using a tire for airbrush although mine was IIRC 155/80-15 from a VW Beetle...

I have tried several ways to do rib imitation. One was from sprue with liquid cement and several over paintings. Maybe best was using scored 0.1 mm card carefully glued to underside filed/scored/sanded bottom to get it level with surrounding surface. One I has read or heard but not tested is using copper wire glued to surface and then sanded. Plastic/glue/paint would be softer than metal so the ribs would stay higher.

Cheers,

AaCee

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am making this same kit at the moment. It is the Russian early war boxing with the rockets and skis but I have aftermarket decals for SCW. I've looked on with disbelief at all the mishaps you've been having. Anyway, I had literally just started making it when I set it down on a patch of my workspace I had tested my glue nozzle out on, accidently gluing it to my desk. You know what - I think this kit is cursed. Maybe some crazy babushka cursed the moulds the day she was fired from the factory. :frantic:

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Oh no :o! I hope the glue sets and you can rescue it. There is a lot of plastic on these kits and they almost always seem to be saveable. Which can, in its own way, be frustrating :confused:

Mine have been safely on the bench covered in masking tape for a few weeks now. Illness has stopped progress. I have to say Popeye is looking promising; the kit does have a good accurate shape. Just make sure to pin the stabilisers on and to glue the top wings to the fuselage first, to sand away the area just in front of the ailerons.

I had many accidents, the thread is longer than it should be because of that and my mistakes. I have learned a lot though and I bought the ski-kit you have: 'Red 15'. The ski sprue is nice :).

Why not do a WIP? It has to be better than mine :D! Good luck with this enchanting but cursed (I think you're right) kit!

Best regards

Tony

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Hello Tiger!

How I have missed this... Brings also some memories like using a tire for airbrush although mine was IIRC 155/80-15 from a VW Beetle...

I have tried several ways to do rib imitation. One was from sprue with liquid cement and several over paintings. Maybe best was using scored 0.1 mm card carefully glued to underside filed/scored/sanded bottom to get it level with surrounding surface. One I has read or heard but not tested is using copper wire glued to surface and then sanded. Plastic/glue/paint would be softer than metal so the ribs would stay higher.

Cheers,

AaCee

Hi AaCee, apologies for my late reply. I hadn't set the thread to automatically send me an email when a new message gets posted. I've done it now :)

They're good tips for the ribs; nothing will go untried!

It's good to hear someone else had fun with a car tyre. I used to have a VW Beetle (I had it 9 years). A 1970 1302s.

I drove that thing all over Europe and Scandinavia. It had the windscreen washer pump as....the air from the spare tyre in the front :D!

This meant that the spare tyre was nearly always flat, so it was important to carry a foot pump, to keep pumping up the spare tyre!

Those pesky Germans.. They left us with those Käfer to frustrate us..:S

Actually it was a good car, but cold in snowy weather. Those heater channel things don't work very well unless absolutely every pipe is sealed very well.

I never sold my car, it is officially 'lost'. Yup :shrug:. Long story. If anyone ever sees a pastel blue 1970 UK registered Beetle 1302s registration XOU 530J it is still registered to me. Please let me know :)

Best regards

Tony

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Well, yes it's long :) I can PM if you would like - PM me and we can share the story...

Today I am spending just 30 minutes at the bench - the old doctor's orders thing, I'm allowed half an hour 'to mobilise'. So here we have some pictures of Popeye.
I had not done a good job of masking, so I re-masked and sprayed the red again:

P1260542_zpsko3cjujh.jpg

In the future I am going to take note of CedB's suggestion and use cling film instead of kitchen roll to mask off large areas.

Then, after some days to let the Gunze red dry, I resprayed in Hataka Russian green:

P1260524_zpsguhcnpk7.jpg

All of this is a very long recovery from the 'Black' thing. I guess you can all understand that much fortifying of mojo has been needed to overcome this occurrence. ;)

Anyway, I also retouched and painted the 'tricolour' on the rudder.

I feel we may all feel a sense of relief in seeing that, finally, popeye, looks like this (again):


P1260548_zpsrcp44smh.jpg

Yes, it's the same model. The one that had huge steps in the wings. That had stupid exhaust stacks that looked like little peni*es. That had no defined cowl step. AModel actually make an excellent I-16 type 5 (late). The profile is lovely, it just takes a bit of commitment to get the best from it.

P1260549_zpsnptjwmax.jpg

I need to do a little recoat of light blue on one underside wing. For some reason the 'Red has Bled'. This blue is only available from one shop in Warsaw, 'Jadar Hobby'. I love this Agama paint. I guess it's quite fetishistic, but I will order some and it should be here in 10 days or so time. It is actually 'Polish Light Blue' but, given the picture I have seen of the Spanish blue on I-16, on a fragment (I can't show as it is an in a book with copyright), looks very feasible. I like it :).

Now to sort out the canopy, wheels, wells and gunsight.

Thanks for being there people.
Best regards
Tony

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Looking good Tony and I'm pleased you're getting some bench time - get well soon.

Can I ask for some more shots on a non-white background? Or, if you're using your iPhone, try poking the darker bits on the screen and see if you can get it to set the exposure from that. Those don't show your paint job 'in the best light'! :)

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Looking really nice now, great save...and I promise not to post any videos of a certain Rolling Stones song......

Ian

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Thanks for the nice comments chaps! :) The red had been done weeks ago and I was scared the masking tape would have stuck really strongly to the model. I thought it would bring the green and tail colours off, but it didn't :)

Tamiya tape is great stuff; I know some say it's generic and others are just as good, but I stick with it because I trust it. One thing I've realised after getting properly set up with an airbrush is just how important good masking is. To have trustworthy tape gives a head start.

I managed to get the blue on last night, I'll post pictures later today. No disasters (and camera safely away from the airbrush Sarge :D).

I'll use the green cutting mat as the background tonight Ced. I lost my spectacles a couple of months ago and basically everything is currently a bit blurry to me, so I must apologise; I know my photos often aren't very good. I've altered the brightness on the last photos using the Photobucket editor; does this look a bit better?:

4D8966C9-2771-49C6-95A2-556855FFCB92_zps

And:

3AE92ED1-16F3-4B9B-9570-D7B2A595D49F_zps

And here's a new one of its bottom (before I'd touched it up - fnaar yip yip):

32FB0F52-124A-4462-839D-72074BF11A21_zps

I think the white surface (recycled polystyrene fish and chip tray!) was affecting the exposure too. Something to have a quiet play with tonight. I'm afraid I'm rather fond of these huge fish and chip trays for modelling. Things can't fall off and, knowing my 'Colonel Blink, Short Sighted Gink' record of spillages in the past, they're a good way to ensure any future spillages are somewhat contained. :dunce:.

I hope to paint these little chaps tonight:

P1000734_zps24ic7ihd.jpg

If all goes well I should be up and about by Friday :). It is fine today after a nice half an hour in my favourite seat (the one in front of the modelling bench).

By taking it in stages, and going for the so called 'wuss/oap' option I hope to take part in the 'Blitz' Group Build this weekend. Yes, I know :mental:.

I will mostly be building; An ICM Heinkel He-70 Blitz. I'm going for an easier colour scheme:

860E0CD0-E692-4E9A-B3BB-188EE7EB12BF_zps

If anyone knows if the black extends as a stripe on the underside on this scheme, please let me know.

Thanks for reading and for the encouragement; it definitely helps the old mojo!

Best regards

Tony

Edited: corrected photo link.

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I can see! Thanks Tony, much better... they're both looking good :)

I hope the recovery continues (with the help of the bench) - get well soon.

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Great to see you up and running, even in first gear Tony! That's 30 minutes well spent, and a pleasure to look at the results.

The fish & chip tray idea may have to be implemented at this end: I tend to model in older shabbier clothes that by this stage in the wash-cycle have saggy cuffs that are perfect for sweeping small parts into the Zone of Departed Plastic that lies below the desk. I found a 1/72 pilot down there the other day - no idea what kit he came from and the poor blighter was rigid with shock.

I've tried Ced's cling film variant myself and can vouch for ease of use.

Wishing you a smoothly-ascending mobility curve mate,

Tony

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  • 11 months later...

Almost a year since anything happened on these builds :waiting:....

 

In April, following the house move/move from QLD to ACT in January, I found all three models :yahoo:!

 

Not broken, all safe. Then, as we know, just like last year I've ended up bedbound. Never mind. I've got time and opportunity  to relink photographs.

 

Also as we can see, Photomuppet has created a little task for me :frantic::bounce::rant: !!!

 

Time to rebuild the saga... with some ideas from @Old Man on how to tackle those ribs, on 1W o 1.

 

I won't be fast in rebuilding this, but this, the LaGG 3 times three, KLM DC 9, Revell Tempest and diorama builds will be rebuilt.

 

I would encourage all that can to relink their threads to photographs.

 

Researching build threads on all forums and more is quite horrible on the internet at the moment, that Photomuppet ransom is all over some of the most useful builds on the net :fraidnot:.

 

Back to fight photomuppet soon folks, from the first page onwards 

 

Best regards :bye:

TonyT

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Good for you Tony!

I have also been redoing all my threads and replacing the links. I refuse to be blackmailed by PB and will make sure that all my pics are replaced eventually, no matter how tedious it may be.

 

Ian

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