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A 1/72 Amodel I-16 Type 5 Spanish Civil War (without a bucket of filler?).


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Well, I wouldn't say it's your first Work In Progress, but your first Washout In Progress......and you've been able not just to beat all those problems, but to complete the kit.....man, you're my hero.....

A catastrophic string of issues have become a "Mosca".......you deserve a wholeheartedly public greeting.....!!!! If I were to cope all those problems you've had to solve, I'd probably have thrown the kit away long time ago....

Cheers......

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Well I'm in - how could I not be? A great start to your first WiP Tony and I'm looking forward to more humour as you beat this one into submission! Third fifth time lucky! :D

interesting 'No to can' embellishment... I had a quick look on the 'net but nothing... perhaps it was supposed to be 'No to can't' and they ran out of space? Or perhaps it's Spanish? Hmmm.

Anyway, watching with interest :popcorn:

A few months late (ahem).

The inscription is wrong painted. The original read "No tocar", that is "Do not touch". The plane was at a work shop.

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Now will you look at that. Absolutely brilliant save from the mighty BLACK hole of spillage and fillage. She's turning out beautifully Tony. You are on the final stretch now, I'm really looking forward to the last few touches. Thanks for sharing, it's been one hell of a roller coaster ride.

Keep up the good fight.

Jont. :)

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This is your fault Tony! Dinner time at the model shop and look what happens.

FEB85AE7-255F-48CD-810D-CF6AF5B64488_zps

What did I just do? :D

Johnny.

This is you soon John:

C05C74D4-AB91-448B-A75D-CC46EBA1B31D_zps

:rofl:

I was trying to wait to reply to everybody, but couldn't resist! :D

Artie is right; the bible on a grain of rice...

That is a fantastic little kit! You could build a squadron! :D

I'm thinking it will make for a fast and very fun build!

Well done that man, I can't wait to see it built :thumbsup2:

Welcome to the world of Ishaks and Moscas! (Flies and Donkeys!), also known as I-16's. :cheers:

Best regards

Tony

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I know. The airbrush time will be like..... Psssssssss. Top done. Psssssss bottom done......... I'll give you a poke when I start it. :)

Airbrush...????? push the trigger, and the little Mosca will fly away ..........

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There is some very serious madness developing round here lately

All of it directly attributable to a certain Felin-ish gent of our acquaintance too

tut tut

Tony mate that looks like a very definite positive result

Have a sincere WOW

Great catch on that one

:)

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There is some very serious madness developing round here lately

All of it directly attributable to a certain Felin-ish gent of our acquaintance too

tut tut

Tony mate that looks like a very definite positive result

Have a sincere WOW

Great catch on that one

:)

:rofl:

Thanks Perdu!

It is getting quite random around here at the moment. Must be something in the breakfast cereal :D

32AABD91-B5BA-4E95-9F36-B1BAAD2DF4DE_zps

TT

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Hello everyone,
I'm typing on the phone and it doesn't let me do 'multiquote'. I l'île to replu to Rachel comment, but with our the multiquote on the phone it is a bit difficulté, so just Manly Thanks for the Kindle commentés (did you notice my phone just went French again? It does that ever since I dropped it in salad dressing.... :shrug: ). It meant to read :
"I like to reply to each comment but without the 'multi quote' on my phone, it is a bit difficult, so thank you for all the kind comments". :)

When I unmasked Popeye I found my masking hadn't been as good as I'd hoped. Some undersurface blue had escaped into the top red (and green).

P1000878_zpswfh4qhcx.jpg

I wasn't willing to risk any kind of paint remover again. I have tried a little Micromesh but it took some of the green off too, so later today I will be masking extremely thoroughly and revolting the green (the Hataka paient drues quickly) and then the main red fuselage band.

My iPhone's doing it again :o!

I won't be revolting the green! I'll be *repainting* the green :huh:!

This is the first model I have airbrushed and a lot of lessons have been learned, efficiency and thoroughness of masking being now, the most recent :rolleyes:.

My masking wasn't so great on the underside either, there it was red that escaped:

P1260267_zpsafatv5yg.jpg

Micromesh rectified that, but..... also took off blue even though I carefully selected the finest grit that would work (8000) so I have to respray all 3 colours. Joy. Hold your breath. I mean, what could go wrong? :whistle: I will be very, very careful in masking the front of the model and the tail stripes.

Once that is done it will be decals, of which there are only four; two 'Popeyes' on the tail and two numbers over the fuselage stripe area.

The finish is a satin green; I'm wondering if I should just apply Clear to where the decals go, or not bother at all? I don't have any 'Future' or derivatives. I've checked the list at 'Swannysmodels' and none of the products listed there are available locally.

I only have Humbrol clear. As the Sarge correctly noted, it's nowhere near as good for canopies and as CedB suggested, it can have unpredictable outcomes. I have two P-40s in the Drawer of Doom due to (brush applied) Humbrol Clear. It 'bloomed' on both, creating white patches. On one the base colours were all Lifecolor acrylics, on the other Tamiya acrylics. Both had been left a week to dry.

Does anyone have any suggestions... a small application of gloss varnish perhaps? If there are any readers in the antipodes; any recommendations for an available 'Future' substitute?

I had mentioned that the UTI-4 has had to be almost completely remade since the 'black' incident. Here was the state of play last Friday:


P1000848_zpsulc55lkn.jpg

Out with the Flex-i-File for the wing roots....again!

P1000847_zpsmb0irfwp.jpg

Now, I also had to re-smooth and fill the rear fuselage join. The ModelMaster paint remover is very, very good, but it dissolves filler too. For this reason that tricky rear wing to fuselage join area also had to be re-filled then sanded:

P1000893_zpsgcqrugrc.jpg

Previously, I had had problems with glued wings and horizontal stabilisers falling off these models. I had taken advice and in the case of this one used wire to strengthen the join. I was therefore very surprised when a stabiliser, one I *had* strengthened with wire, fell off:


P1000894_zps7bywlupp.jpg

Oh well, glue it back on for the third time and refill the join, then sand it, then apply Mr. Surfacer, then sand it........ :waiting:

And so I managed to finally get the UTI-4 back in primer again. I noticed a few spots where Mr. Surfacer 1000 was needed, but overall the road to recovery seemed open:

P1000915_zps09z6rtoa.jpg


P1000916_zpshx0udaob.jpg

After another coat of primer, still more work to be done on starboard aileron and that pesky rear fuselage to wing join :S


P1000914_zpsfjeugmbs.jpg

So I decided to have a complete change and looked at my Kora resin wheels:

P1000727_zps1capmtwx.jpg

Hmmm, look very promising, thinks it's time to get out a face mask and a Trumpeter micro saw:

P1000728_zpsw88jmeg3.jpg

Off with the pour stubs:


P1000729_zpssavlmros.jpg

I've learned to cut into pour stubs diagonally. Then I file off the excess from the bottom of the part.

This is a lesson learned after I made a mistake, again last year, with a resin Hawk Major kit.

An expensive resin Hawk Major kit. The wing roots were attatched to the pour stubs and I cut in a straight line with a crude X-Acto saw :mental:.

A little voice was screaming in a logical part of my brain, but somehow the demented majority was winning over and I kept sawing. I ended up with wings that were now around 2mm too short each :dunce:.

So now I saw *in* to the pour stub and, judging by the photo above, my finger too :wacko:.

Here they are with the bit of extra on the bottom:

P1000731_zps3ip9gpd6.jpg

And here after a little tidying up:


P1000734_zpsidtncgh6.jpg

I was on a multi-tasking mojo roll now so decided to paint Popeye's tiny undercarriage door inner flaps with Tamiya NATO black:

P1000918_zpsgw848tr4.jpg

Then, to share it out, what could I do for 1W-1 (still adopting the ostrich position with regard to the wing roots :whistle:)? Tidy up the motor that's what, all messy:

P1000901_zpsod6oa7tj.jpg

Time to drill out its back end :analintruder: fnar:

P1000904_zpsfgjysvys.jpg

This won't hurt a bit sir, just breathe in deeply:

P1000905_zpsxefdebeu.jpg

Aaaand relax.

A first coat of, erm, b b b bl black paint followed that:
P1260273_zpslkmlchrm.jpg

Next, as with Popeye, the front housing will be painted mid blue and the cylinders given a dry brush of steel.

I had also painted the main undercarriage doors for Popeye:

P1260230_zps6a8lxedf.jpg

I was pleased to have got work done on all three models, and especially to bring the UTI-4 ever further back from the brink of oblivion. :)

Finally, wing ribs. Here's where we are and I'm not keen:

P1000899_zpsumqxvoie.jpg

Here is what I'm aiming for; on the left, what I had, on the right, even though it says it's a Type 4, what I want:

P1000898_zpsaedoeve9.jpg

Artie told me, and Googling reinforced this, that early Type 5's have just these 11 ribs on the top. 1W*1 seems to have originally been the Republican '19' before capture, indeed an early Type 5.

So, time to keep going while the mojo is running and get on with re-ribbing. That will be part of the next instalment, along with the results of spray booth fun!


Thanks for the reading and for the comments and chortles!
Happy modelling
Tony

PS: The result of the second coat of Humbrol 'Clear' on the canopy can be seen in the 'undercarriage door' picture above. It is a lot better, still not as good as Future, but just about passable :)

Edited: For spelling and syntax.

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Klear is only a gloss varnish. Any gloss varnish will do the job for decaling.

You're certainly getting your monies worth on these-enough practice for a dozen models!

Ian

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Klear is only a gloss varnish. Any gloss varnish will do the job for decaling.

You're certainly getting your monies worth on these-enough practice for a dozen models!

Ian

Thanks Ian :)

The Humbrol Clear did varnish (in places) to a very hard, shiny finish, but elsewhere went white and Matt.

So that I don't mess up; is Enamel based varnish suitable to put over acrylic paint?

Also I have some Alclad II gloss varnish and so far I'm impressed by their products, would that be ok over acrylic paint?

Yes, I hadn't thought of it that way but I'm certainly getting my money's worth, it's a good way to look at it :D!

I'm also doing three LaGG 3s over in the GPW GB, and they're coming along a lot faster than these 'Moscas' did. My experience here has really helped, all the good advice is amazing.

Tomorrow I start a little airliner for the first time in 40 years; that will be great fun! :)

Thanks again Ian

Best regards

Tony

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Tony,

I'd recommend the Aclad Aquagloss varnish (make sure it's the Aqua gloss not the lacquer based stuff).

Or if you want drop into Bunnings and pick up a bottle of Pascoes Long Life floor polish.

It worked ok for me but very runny and didn't level as easily, sometimes forming droplets.

The Alcad stuff looks very similar as a milky white liquid (even smells somewhat the same) but goes on much nicer. A bit more expensive than the household substitute but I'd say worth it.

As for the build, hopefully you're past the worst of the mishaps now, almost there :D

Edited by Squibby
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Thanks Ian; message received loud and clear :) Luckily;

Thanks Squibby, I bought a bottle of the aqua gloss just last week from BNA. I was mainly looking to use it with canopies (as I saw it used for this on YouTube), but of course it's primary use is a varnish :doh:!

Now I understand why it has 'Aqua' in the title, i.e. 'not lacquer'.

I have Alclad Matt, am I right in thinking that is also laquer based and unsuitable for use with acrylics? Shame as it has been highly recommended :confused:

I'm glad I asked about this! :o Laquer disaster averted.....

Best regards

Tony

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